Originally Posted by
badbluers4
What kinda gains are you really gonna get with an N/A tune anyway? OP, keep the APR tune, its safe for the car, and takes away the speed limiter and torque limiters and slightly improves the gas mileage. You're good. That imola does look good going down the strip! Kudos! Just wait till it's cooler, if you're really into that kinda thing.
With the right NA tune and a catless 2.75 inch exhaust it is not unrealistic to see a 30 to 40 horsepower gain on a RS4. I tend to be pessimistic with claims for gains on both NA and FI engines until I see it and I have seen it with local RS4s around me.
Originally Posted by
Malv1
Thanks guys! I thought about the title after I made it and wondered if it would throw people off. My apologies. @jimmybones, the mods were on the car when I bought it. I am thinking of changing things a bit and getting a different tune and possibly swapping the exhaust or at least adding cats if nothing else.
@torquesteer, I did have the TC off during my runs
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Okay, the previous owner could get gotten those parts a long time ago when the RS4 performance mods were weak. I will admit that the Milltek exhausts do sound great but the performance just is not there.
Originally Posted by
daytonars4
More aggressive tune always means more potential for issues since you are adding more stress to 8-9 year old engine components. You are only going to gain maybe 5-10whp? more so is it really worth it? Not like the turbo and s/c cars where you can gain 100+ whp on tunes.
It is to be assumed that all the preventative maintenance should be done before anyone starts modding a car. I have gone to car shows and guys talk about mods that they want to do but I am like how about fixing the oil leaks, damaged vacuum lines, and doing some maintenance.
Be careful to not confuse the performance gains of FI engines on race gas with the performance gains of NA engines on pump gas. There is a big difference and when the FI engines are still on pump gas they are far less impressive.
Originally Posted by
low_qu4ttro
Where could someone find the correct times to shift through the gears?
Practice, repetition, and taking notes on what works/doesn't work. Are you referring to when to shift at the dragstrip, road course, or both?
Originally Posted by
Malv1
Hearing you guys is making me feel better about my trap speeds. I haven't done anything with VCDS yet, I should have but forgot to bring with me. I was using a mixture of 93 and 110 unleaded race fuel, just to see if that would help in the heat and honestly, I don't know if it changed anything.
I say it is crazy rich with no scientific data to back it up at this point but the smells, the hot start woes I have at times and the general amount of black smoke and particles on the back of my car lead me to say it. It may not be as rich as I think but until I log it, that is my feeling about it.
I didn't ice the intake down or anything but my best runs did come after letting the car sit a good 40 minutes or so with the hood open and getting the oil temps down to ~160-170 before running. We are planning on going again when we get some cooler weather in he coming months to see what the difference will be, I will definitely try to cool it down more before we start running then to see where I can get the car at.
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How many miles do you have? I just didn't see it posted anywhere if you posted it before.
A lot of RS4s around me have needed a new PCV valve/oil separator and new or rebuilt fuel injectors along with a carbon clean to get their cars running right. Can you do two things for me to give us some more information?
1. Clean off the area around the oil filler cap, start the engine, let it run at idle, try to open the oil filler cap. The engine should shutter and then smooth out. If it stalls out, runs like crap and doesn't smooth out, the oil filler cap doesn't come off easily (it might seem like it is being sucked into the engine), or there is a loud noise that comes from the back driver's side of the intake manifold then then your PCV valve is bad.
A new PCV valve/oil separator is expensive at around $250 but it is worth the money if yours is bad. It is also kind of a pain in the ass to replace because you either have to remove the intake manifold or force the plastic secondary air injection hose out of the way to get to the lower T30 Torx bolt.
2. Hook up your VCDS, open up the VCDS on your laptop, go into the Select control module option, go into 01-Engine Electronics, go into measuring value blocks, go to channel 32, and write down or take a picture of the readings. Then go back far enough to then go into 11-Engine Electronics, go into measuring value blocks, go to channel 32, and write down or take a picture of the readings. Let us know what those readings are. That channel 32 measuring value block is for the fuel trims to see how the ECUs are adjusting how rich or lean the engine is running.
A lot of members here have been getting their fuel injectors rebuilt/flow matched or get new fuel injectors from RockAuto.com. The rebuilt/flow matched injectors work for some and others have had issues still. The new injectors from RockAuto.com are listed under the R8 because they are the same part number but they are Hitachis instead of OEM. Cost wise it is like between $20-30 per injector to get them rebuilt/flow matched or like $55 per injector to buy new from RockAuto.com
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