Please Help Diag my $%&*-ing 4.2!

[plutoboyvp07]

I have been having some trouble with my 4.2 lately. I am trying to hold out but if this keeps up, I am afraid I will have to leave the Audi scene

I have a 2000 Audi A6 4.2. I got the transmission rebuilt a little over 2 years ago. I left the country for a year and came back and am still having transmission issues.

After the rebuild, I noticed my trans computer was getting wet, so I ended up getting a new one. Now, everytime it is very hot outside, I can drive for maybe 30-1hour before the
rpms jump to like 8k then jerks into safe mode. This only happens on hot days so I assumed the new computer got wet which I thought it did when something was spilled down there
so I bought another one. It happened again today after driving for a little bit and this is another one I bought from a used part place. Now I have gone through a few of these and I cant believe it would be my luck to get 5 bad ones.

So my question is, does anyone possibly know what could be happening? I have a generic obd2 scanner and I have pulled these codes[see below]. I am in the process of trying to get a member with a vagcom to help me out to see if I should continue to keep and pour money into my baby or just say goodbye and go buy a ford[dont make me please].

I found the DTC meaning of these codes from an official website. May be a little different but if you can point me to what I need to look at our buy then that would be awesome as I am not too good at this car part stuff.

P0160 - Oxygen Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P1122 - O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank2-Sensor2 Open
P1136 – Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Fuel,Bank1 System too Lean
P1138 - Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Fuel,Bank2 System too Lean
P1140 – Bank2-Sensor2 Internal Resistance too High
P1411 – Sec.Air Inj.Sys.,Bank2 Flow too Flow
P1423 – Sec.Air Inj.Sys.,Bank1 Flow too Low

Thanks for any help if possible.

[rollerton]

None of those codes relate to transmission operation. You need a different OBD setup to connect to the trans module itself to see what it might tell you. Personally...I'd say maybe it's possible that the first wet TCU caused a problem. But it's a stretch to say a second one would do the same thing, and even more unlikely that the 3rd got wet and shows the same symptoms.
It's way more likely that you have some part of the trans failing. Just because you had it "rebuilt" doesn't mean it won't fail again. It's VERY well known that most shops will tear the trans down and only replace the obviously worn parts, leaving the original 'not yet failed' parts inside to fail soon after it's back on the road.
When I say it's "VERRY well known" I mean it's almost impossible to avoid and happens ALL THE TIME. I'd guess the shop that did the rebuild cut corners and your trans is garbage. Really sucks, but with a problem like that which predictable it's pretty likely.
The 5hp24 trans is known for being crappy and failing over and over and over and over... and over. The only real fix is to get the trans rebuilt PROPERLY by a shop that will guarantee it or swap a manual trans in.

[plutoboyvp07]

I understand what you are saying but this is limited to only happening on HOT days. When it is cool in the morning or relatively cool day, it actually doesn't happen which leaves me to believe it could be something else? I am unsure. I have been looking through many articles all day that people have had trouble with their emissions system. Also when I was having trouble with my transmission, I was getting trans specific codes in my ecm? Wouldn't those codes be present now if it was a transmission fault? Hopefully I can find someone with a vag-com soon in the Ann Arbor/Detroit area to help me scan

[rollerton]

If only when it;s very HOT then you need to scan it. Maybe you're getting specific solenoid failure when it's really hot, or some part of the valve body could be having an electrical problem.
The real killer is that aside from the valve body these trans's aren't very serviceable short of a rebuild. Anyway, scan the thing...aside from that it's just blind guessing.

[glennda5id]

You need to scan with a Audi scanner. You can get blue kkl cable off eBay and use vcds lite for free. Then you can scan the TCU and pull those codes.

[plutoboyvp07]

Sorry I have been away for some time. Too much work lately. It overheated again today, I haven't been able to find anyone with a scanner. I think I am just going to get rid of it.

I do hate to say that but maybe I can score a newer year. I dont know. If I can find someone with a scanner in the area then hopefully i can figure it out. I cant keep dumping money into this thing.

[mr_dave]

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...replacement%29