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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring
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    2000 A4 1.8tQ Recently acquired

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    And its been fun so far. *exercising at least 50% sarcasm when making such comments*

    Hello AZ members, I'm new to the forum, and have recently been able to get back into something I've missed for some time: Cursing at cars I love while we work out our problems. I've always really enjoyed working on my vws in the past, so i figured this is a logical next step, but, I didn't want to work on a VR6 again, so 1.8t it is. This car is in rough shape, but a lot of it appears to be exterior (appears. ); I'll post pics following this post and you may decide how accurate my assessment really is.

    How it began: Finding the A4 1.8tQ (ATW Engine)
    I wanted to make a possibly dangerous friend on craigslist, so with cash in hand, I set out to make that a reality. I found someone who seemed to really enjoy taking clubbed dubs and fixing them into half-way drivable, smoke billowing, deathtrap..? Nah, not deathtrap, but it does smoke like a chimney....that has a house on fire attached to it. All joking aside, he was a super cool dude, and he was SUPER straight-forward about what he had done, and what he saw was still messed up. I mean, $1200, I knew I was putting myself in a position to fix things, which is cool, because thats kind of exactly the whole idea, you know, aside from actually driving it. I do not have to drive that often, so fixing things a few days at a time isn't necessarily a problem, although I try to have most things wrapped up before nightfall, as I don't have a garage, or a driveway...or even a guaranteed space of my street, let alone 4 blocks in any direction. That said, there's been some progress, but lets start with what I had been told was still a problem:

    - R-TITLE! YAY! It always sounds bad, but it doesn't have frame damage or anything serious; has been confirmed.
    - Passenger window motor: Dead
    - Slow leak: Front passenger side tire
    - Clogged Catalytic Converter
    - No exhaust after flexpipe. (Still have it, it just needs to be welded back together.)
    - Super luxurious white smoke from the engine bay/exhaust (American Rd, Allentown, PA: "FIRE, FIRE, FIRE" screams a passer-by out their car window. Hadn't had the car long, so I nearly shat myself in this scenario. )
    - Plenty of dents, and randomly missing things, like stock wheel center caps. The cup-holder assembly is gone, the ever-popular driver-seat tear, and the infamous screen of dead pixels.

    The good things(?):
    - It still runs!
    - Drives and feels solid
    - Rear-Diff fluid changed before I bought it, along with front wheel bearings, and tie-rods.
    - No CEL (I assume ritual sacrifice was used to ward it off)
    - Found the vehicle history: Was taken care of in its young life: Stealership service visits on time and such; TB and WP changed at 120k.

    Since I've bought it I've had some time to look it over, and also do a few minor repairs, but some are still pending. I've found additional problems, such as leaky VCG, and Im assuming that cam half-moon looking seal is also in pretty bad shape, as there is definitely oil leaking, and burning off on the exhaust manifold, or, at least thats what it looks like is happening. This is my primary cause for concern, as I try not to drive the vehicle at all because of this. I plan on doing both the VCG and seal this weekend. I've replaced the cat, as well as the downpipe, which resulted in a CEL for downstream o2; Replaced that the other day, and it appears to be in proper working order now.

    Other things I've experience in the short time of ownership:

    - Oily spark-plugs..
    - Problems start-up (crank, crank, crank, nothing. But, then it will inexplicably just start up no problem. Fuel filter?)

    I don't have a boost gauge installed yet, but plan to, because I do not think the boost is very strong, but have no way to back up that assessment. I can hear the turbo spool, but the car feels sluggish at times. Again, I really have not much to go off of for comparison sake, so any nods in some direction are welcome, not just in regards to the boost, but in general. I've been reading here for some time, and this looks to be a very knowledgeable community. I'm a complete noob in contrast to many of you, but I will say I'm mechanically inclined at the very least, and not afraid to get the work done.

    Thank you for taking the time to read!!

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings Turbo_B5's Avatar
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    Hi and welcome! pics are a must.

    Smoke from engine bay is usually the leaky valve cover gasket leaking onto the exhaust manifold.
    For the crank crank crank, check compression first. then do a boost leak test. as those are free to do basically then start changing out parts.
    change the valve cover gasket $20~ to fix the oily sparkplugs.
    get a testpipe for the clogged cat.
    EH F0UR 2001 A4 1.8TqM
    = Parked cause its junk.
    2002 Golf TDI
    = FASTER THEN YOUR B5.
    2018 Suzuki GSX-R750
    2014 Honda Grom
    2013 Golf TDI
    2001 A4 1.8TqM
    1997 A4 1.8TqM SPORT

    @Turbo_B5

  3. #3
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    Whats up, dude? Thanks for the input! Much appreciated.

    Here are just a few general shots; Im not parked in a position to get great pictures right now, but will get more detail with my actual camera this weekend when I do the VCG.

  4. #4
    Active Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by King_ View Post
    Hi and welcome! pics are a must.

    Smoke from engine bay is usually the leaky valve cover gasket leaking onto the exhaust manifold.
    For the crank crank crank, check compression first. then do a boost leak test. as those are free to do basically then start changing out parts.
    change the valve cover gasket $20~ to fix the oily sparkplugs.
    get a testpipe for the clogged cat.
    I need to get a compression tester, as well as a boost leak tester.
    Clogged cat was replaced with a new half-decent one. I would like to try out a testpipe, but was worried about the emissions laws. Upon further reading I've found theres plenty of ways to avoid inspection failure, so this will be a move to make after I get the oil leak under control.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Turbo_B5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by G.R.Flamethrow View Post
    I need to get a compression tester, as well as a boost leak tester.
    Clogged cat was replaced with a new half-decent one. I would like to try out a testpipe, but was worried about the emissions laws. Upon further reading I've found theres plenty of ways to avoid inspection failure, so this will be a move to make after I get the oil leak under control.
    You make a boost leak tester yourself. http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...boostleak.html

    Testpipe is sooo much worth it if you can get away with one.

    Murph can change your LCD screen for cheap.

    Quote Originally Posted by Murph_129 View Post
    Hit me up!
    EH F0UR 2001 A4 1.8TqM
    = Parked cause its junk.
    2002 Golf TDI
    = FASTER THEN YOUR B5.
    2018 Suzuki GSX-R750
    2014 Honda Grom
    2013 Golf TDI
    2001 A4 1.8TqM
    1997 A4 1.8TqM SPORT

    @Turbo_B5

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings Nollywood's Avatar
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    My Garage
    ‘07 B7 RS4 Avant, 10 SEAT Exeo ST, ‘13 3R9 400-R
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    Looks like a pre-facelift NA deck lid. Or the badges were wrongly located.
    2007 Audi RS4 Avant B7 - Misano Red Pearl Effect
    2007 Audi RS4 Saloon B7 - Sprint Blue
    2013 SEAT Exeo ST - Project 3R9 400-R
    2010 SEAT Exeo ST - Project 3R9 420-S
    1986 Type 85 Audi 90 quattro

  7. #7
    Active Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by King_ View Post
    You make a boost leak tester yourself. http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...boostleak.html

    Testpipe is sooo much worth it if you can get away with one.

    Murph can change your LCD screen for cheap.
    Thanks a lot, King_. Very helpful, and I appreciate that. I'm gonna get the materials I need to build the tester tonight, and I believe I have a small compressor here that may be able to output enough psi, but I have to double check that. Otherwise, it'll also be tested this weekend during the VCG change, as I'll have a driveway/garage to use; I'm pretty positive theres a proper air compressor there.

    Testpipe I can manage here. Keep my cat and swap before the sticker party if theres a distinct issue getting passed with it.

    I'd be pumped on an LCD that works; Definitely gonna hit Murph up about that ASAP.

  8. #8
    Active Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nollywood View Post
    Looks like a pre-facelift NA deck lid. Or the badges were wrongly located.
    Pre-facelift. My shoddy photography didn't do a great job of describing the angles. Haha.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Turbo_B5's Avatar
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    Oct 09 2012
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    2000 A4 1.8tQ Recently acquired

    Quote Originally Posted by G.R.Flamethrow View Post
    Thanks a lot, King_. Very helpful, and I appreciate that. I'm gonna get the materials I need to build the tester tonight, and I believe I have a small compressor here that may be able to output enough psi, but I have to double check that. Otherwise, it'll also be tested this weekend during the VCG change, as I'll have a driveway/garage to use; I'm pretty positive theres a proper air compressor there.

    Testpipe I can manage here. Keep my cat and swap before the sticker party if theres a distinct issue getting passed with it.

    I'd be pumped on an LCD that works; Definitely gonna hit Murph up about that ASAP.
    No problem buddy. Glad to help.

    As for a compressor you just need 10psi to pressurize the system so ANY compressor will work. Just plug it in until it hits 10psi then unplug it and plug the end into the car.

    This is the test pipe to buy: https://www.ebay.ca/ulk/itm/141844781605

    Also you should probably compression test before installing that new vcg... I wish I did with my 97.
    EH F0UR 2001 A4 1.8TqM
    = Parked cause its junk.
    2002 Golf TDI
    = FASTER THEN YOUR B5.
    2018 Suzuki GSX-R750
    2014 Honda Grom
    2013 Golf TDI
    2001 A4 1.8TqM
    1997 A4 1.8TqM SPORT

    @Turbo_B5

  10. #10
    Active Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by King_ View Post
    No problem buddy. Glad to help.

    As for a compressor you just need 10psi to pressurize the system so ANY compressor will work. Just plug it in until it hits 10psi then unplug it and plug the end into the car.

    This is the test pipe to buy: https://www.ebay.ca/ulk/itm/141844781605

    Also you should probably compression test before installing that new vcg... I wish I did with my 97.
    My compressor will definitely work then. I know it puts out 10 psi for sure.

    That testpipes cheap as fuu compared to...literally everywhere else on the internet. Lol. Will need to get anti-fouler for downstream, yea?

    Compression test before: How come? Only thing I can think of is finding out the engine is muff-cabbage, and therefore, f doing anything to it. Hahaha. I'm gonna assume thats probably not why..

  11. #11
    Active Member Two Rings kjames1270's Avatar
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    May 16 2016
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    New Jersey

    Hey nice pickup. I'm not that great of a wrencher yet but I just jumped into a awm with 185k. My cam chain was making noise, turned out to be a clogged oil pickup tube by the oil pump. I also have the cranking issue, just changed the fuel pump which helped, still waiting for the fuel filter to arrive.

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings Zk20495's Avatar
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    OC, MD

    Welcome to the 2000 club. Good luck with the tests and fixes going on, I'll be testing boost leaks this weekend...
    '00 BT+Bagged A4: Gone but not forgotten.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by kjames1270 View Post
    Hey nice pickup. I'm not that great of a wrencher yet but I just jumped into a awm with 185k. My cam chain was making noise, turned out to be a clogged oil pickup tube by the oil pump. I also have the cranking issue, just changed the fuel pump which helped, still waiting for the fuel filter to arrive.

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
    Thanks, dude!

    The turn-over and no start issue has happened twice so far. First time i discovered oily spark-plugs, cleaned em up, and it fired after that. Second time, recreated the first scenario in how i approached troubleshooting, but all plugs were clean this time. Didn't immediately start after that, but within a minute or two, it did. I'm not familiar with how the inside of the fuel filter is designed, but if sediment is collecting, or something like that, then I could imagine it could possibly blocking a passage. Or, that could be complete crap, and I have no idea.

  14. #14
    Active Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zk20495 View Post
    Welcome to the 2000 club. Good luck with the tests and fixes going on, I'll be testing boost leaks this weekend...
    Thanks man! Good luck with your test as well. If I find problems, f it, I'll just learn more about how to take care of things / know better what to look out for.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings Turbo_B5's Avatar
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    abunch of useless shit
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    Quote Originally Posted by G.R.Flamethrow View Post
    My compressor will definitely work then. I know it puts out 10 psi for sure.

    That testpipes cheap as fuu compared to...literally everywhere else on the internet. Lol. Will need to get anti-fouler for downstream, yea?

    Compression test before: How come? Only thing I can think of is finding out the engine is muff-cabbage, and therefore, f doing anything to it. Hahaha. I'm gonna assume thats probably not why..
    You will probably need the o2 spacer or just get it coded out.

    That is why to do a compression test first.
    EH F0UR 2001 A4 1.8TqM
    = Parked cause its junk.
    2002 Golf TDI
    = FASTER THEN YOUR B5.
    2018 Suzuki GSX-R750
    2014 Honda Grom
    2013 Golf TDI
    2001 A4 1.8TqM
    1997 A4 1.8TqM SPORT

    @Turbo_B5

  16. #16
    Active Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by King_ View Post
    You will probably need the o2 spacer or just get it coded out.

    That is why to do a compression test first.
    Got it. I'll get on the compression test ASAP.

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