Brake rotors

[dnl_avant]

I'm look for some performance rotors for my C5 and suggestions

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[carmudgeon]

just the rotors or a BBK?

[LINDW4LL]

I'm look for some performance rotors for my C5 and suggestions

By performance, do you mean a two-piece rotor, or just a drilled/slotted one piece rotor? The latter won't actually increase performance but look more performance-oriented.

I recommend Stoptechs. They're cheap, high quality, and look good.

[dnl_avant]

By performance, do you mean a two-piece rotor, or just a drilled/slotted one piece rotor? The latter won't actually increase performance but look more performance-oriented.

I recommend Stoptechs. They're cheap, high quality, and look good.

I'm going for performance but I saw some ones on ebay. Brakemotive, that's their name I think.

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[dnl_avant]

just the rotors or a BBK?

BBK? Is that the short hand for a kit? If it is then yes I want pads and rotors

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[JediJoker7169]

BBK? Is that the short hand for a kit? If it is then yes I want pads and rotors

"BBK" = "big brake kit," generally involving larger diameter rotors and more powerful calipers, usually fixed rather than sliding (although some kits space out stock calipers). If you're getting new rotors, definitely get pads, and if you've never replaced your fluid, do that, too. You will get much more of a performance increase from pads and fluid than aftermarket rotors. In order to recommend a pad/fluid combination, I need to know more about you and your car.

1. What is the primary driving environment for the car?
2. How would you describe your driving style?
3. Do you go on "spirited drives" on which you demand more from your brakes? How often?
4. Do you track your car? How often?

As for rotors, blanks (no slots, no holes) will generally give you the best all-around performance. Slots can help to improve initial bite of the pads, and will continually deglaze them (improving their efficacy, but reducing their service life in the process), but they also reduce the effective surface area coming into contact with the pads, which the pads need to create friction (stopping power) and the rotors need to absorb heat (longevity). I would never advise running crossdrilled rotors for a number of reasons: 1) reduced effective surface area (as with slots), 2) reduced heat capacity due to removal of important mass, and 3) the probability of stress fractures being created around the holes due to heat cycling, possibly "connecting the dots" and compromising the structural integrity of the rotor. These costs outweigh the minimal potential benefits (slightly increased initial stopping power due to reduced mass, slightly improved wet performance due to channels for water to escape). (You can read more about it here in this thread on QuattroWorld where I give my opinion backed up with facts.) The one true "performance" mod in rotors is going to 2-piece. A 2-piece rotor is lighter because the hat—the center of the rotor, the mass of which is not important to brake efficacy—is made of a lighter, stronger material like aluminum rather than cast iron. The ring—the outside of the rotor, the part that comes into contact with the pads and the mass of which, therefore, matters—is still made of cast iron and none of the important mass and heat capacity is lost. So, it's still able to handle the heat, but it takes less force to slow it down because it's lighter. I run 2-piece rotors for this reason, and slotted mostly because I don't really have the choice of blanks in 2-piece rotors.