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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings pbcrazy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 06 2013
    AZ Member #
    109017
    Location
    VA

    Car won't start immediately after turning off

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    Like the title says, I've been having this since mid-winter but it seems to have gotten worse with warmer weather. Basically if I shut my car off (while it's warmed up), then wait 20 seconds-~10 minutes, it won't start. It either cranks very very slowly, or doesn't at all. I currently have my battery relocated to the back with an 150 amp fuse inline, and I actually blew that fuse trying to start it once. Things I've checked:

    • CTS reads reasonable values for idle and when warm
    • Lights stay on when trying to crank even if it won't start/Can listen to radio, etc. even if it won't crank
    • Sometimes it will start if I jump the battery, but not consitantly
    • If I wait long enough, it will always start (once it is cooled a bit)


    To me, this seems like it's obviously a starter issue (the starter is likely overheating due to the exhaust being hot right next to it, and I should change the starter), however one of my friends swears it's the battery even though I can still run lights/radio/etc. when it won't crank (the battery was checked a year ago and was not 100% but still definitely fine to use). Any opinions would be awesome!
    98.5 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro | 5 Speed | AEB | Laser Red
    | FrankenTurbo F21L | United Motorsports Stage 3 | 630cc Injectors | 3" MAF | ICM Delete w/FSI Coils | Scorpion 2.5" Catback/RAI 3" Test Pipe | Forge 007 | 034 Silicone PCV | Alzor 349 | FMIC | ECS RA4 LWFW/S4 Clutch/S4 P.Plate | AEM | Krauto | etc.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 30 2008
    AZ Member #
    30427
    Location
    Erie, Pennsylvania

    150 Amp fuse is a bit light for the battery cable run. I'd probably upgrade that to a 250 Amp.

    You would confirm a starter issue by making certain the starter has everything it needs during the no-crank situation. 12v+ from battery, 12v+ solenoid trigger, and a good ground to the starter case. I wouldn't be surprised if you have a lousy ground to the starter.
    ^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
    2001 Laser Red A4 1.8TQM, 5-Speed Swapped, 4.11 Final Drive, APR 93, 2.5" Exhaust, ST Coilovers, 034 RSB, A8 Brakes Front & Rear
    2006 Passion Red Volvo V50 T5 AWD 6MT
    2000 Satin Silver Passat 1.8T FWD Wagon, Slippy Tiptronic, 15" Hubcaps
    2001 Aluminum Silver Metallic A4 Avant 1.8TQM (winter sled)

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 21 2005
    AZ Member #
    8454
    Location
    y

    +1 on the ground. But i'd start with the battery ground.

    Sent from my SM-A9000 using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings pbcrazy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 06 2013
    AZ Member #
    109017
    Location
    VA

    Simple enough, I'll re-sand where my battery ground is, and I'll test the starter wiring. If I test on a cold engine, the voltage values should be the same as when hot correct?
    98.5 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro | 5 Speed | AEB | Laser Red
    | FrankenTurbo F21L | United Motorsports Stage 3 | 630cc Injectors | 3" MAF | ICM Delete w/FSI Coils | Scorpion 2.5" Catback/RAI 3" Test Pipe | Forge 007 | 034 Silicone PCV | Alzor 349 | FMIC | ECS RA4 LWFW/S4 Clutch/S4 P.Plate | AEM | Krauto | etc.

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