Oil Cooler lines...

[first.last]

Hey everyone,

One of my oil cooler lines rusted through (oddly, I have the rubber line spacer but it rusted and split at the fitting on the oil cooler) and I lost my oil while driving home the other day. Not good of course!
So I went ahead and purchased a set of JHM oil cooler lines. High quality stuff. Now on to the problems:

1) I got the lines off of the oil cooler and it was a PITA. Luckily the threads aren't too bad but they're not great. Does anyone know what size the threads are on the oil cooler connections so that I can re-cut/clean the threads?

2) The lines will not come out of the block no matter what I do. They seem to be so corroded on they are practically welded in and won't budge no matter how much penetrating oil I use. These should just be the one screw on each and then they pull out correct? Or am I missing something? I noticed there is an unused hole there with threads also. Is this for some special Audi tool for removing the lines? I'm not feeling confident about getting these out. Say for some reason I can't find a way to get them out....Is there a way to get them out from the other side if I drop the oil pan? Wondering how much is involved with that as it looks like there is a coolant(maybe?) line that needs to be removed to drop the oil pan.

Thanks for any help/tips you can give if you've done this before.

[ven0m]

Maybe this will help you? A pic I stumbled upon while searching something regarding the Forge replacement oil-cooler kit.
Here you see how it is connected to the block, I'm speaking from the top of my head but it's probably just loosening 2 bolts and janking the plugs straight out. (Because everything is that simple) :P



I don't have any other valuable input, but I'm subscribing as I'm also interested in the experience of others that dealt with this issue, as I fear that my lines are also not in the best shape any more.

So I'm thinking about going with the complete Forge setup as it relocates the oil cooler, that way I can relocate the AUX rad and successively make a CAI = hat-trick win.

[your daddy]

we do a great deal of the JHM lines. in this region the hardest part is getting the hose ends off of the cooler itself. it take finesse. be carefull not to take the aluminum threads off. when the bolts are out of the pan, the hoses just come out.

[first.last]

we do a great deal of the JHM lines. in this region the hardest part is getting the hose ends off of the cooler itself. it take finesse. be carefull not to take the aluminum threads off. when the bolts are out of the pan, the hoses just come out.

Hmm, yea that's how I thought it should be but with the screws out, the hoses won't budge. Looks like the mounting part shown in ven0m's pic above is practically rust welded to the block. I haven't had the car that long but it looks like it was run without the plastic under stray for too long and these hoses became corroded. Should I be able to turn it while it's in there? Because I can't right now....will keep at it hopefully it comes out!

[RSRichie]

Have just changed my oil lines myself and yes they should just spin through 360 freely as it's just a rubber o-ring once the screw is removed. Sounds like the pipe flange has corroded to the block. Perhaps try lightly taping then with a hammer to induce a bit of shock, or twisting them with some grips!!!.

I will add though. When reinstalling with the new pipes be ultra careful when pushing the ends back into the block, They go in at a slightly odd angle and I managed to trap one of the new o-rings and grazed it!!!

[first.last]

Thanks for the tip on getting them back in, will be careful not to mess up the o-ring putting them in. Also, I finally managed to get them out after using vice grips, a chisel, big ass hammer, and lots of muscle and patience. You can see from the pic that yup, pretty much the flange rusted to the block. Will have to carefully clean the corrosion off of the port now as well. And this was supposed to be an easy job!

[JimmyBones]

Thanks for the tip on getting them back in, will be careful not to mess up the o-ring putting them in. Also, I finally managed to get them out after using vice grips, a chisel, big ass hammer, and lots of muscle and patience. You can see from the pic that yup, pretty much the flange rusted to the block. Will have to carefully clean the corrosion off of the port now as well. And this was supposed to be an easy job!

The bolded section are famous last words!

[RSRichie]

Glad to see you got them off. And good luck with the installation. Hopefully with the JHM lines you won't have to deal with that again

[your daddy]

holy cow. worse i have seem!

[ven0m]

Good job first.last! As said, should be straight forward... with a hammer.

[blubusdrvr]

I just did mine actually. They were totally corroded. ALL the fittings were literally rotting apart. I couldn't get them apart. I thought I was going to have to get a whole new oil cooler. What a PITA! I got the JHM lines as well. To do over again I would've just gotten the entire Forge setup. A lesson for everyone else that reads this. http://www.forgemotorsport.com/Engin...uct--1210.html

[Jake@JHM]

We have these lines in stock should anybody need them

https://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catal...s4-p-1754.html

[first.last]

I just did mine actually. They were totally corroded. ALL the fittings were literally rotting apart. I couldn't get them apart. I thought I was going to have to get a whole new oil cooler. What a PITA! I got the JHM lines as well. To do over again I would've just gotten the entire Forge setup. A lesson for everyone else that reads this. http://www.forgemotorsport.com/Engin...uct--1210.html

Yea, after actually doing the job I should have just gone for the whole cooler and lines. Figured I would try to save some cash and just do the lines but you'll most likely end up messing up the cooler as well anyway in which case you'll just be spending MORE money for lines and cooler. Wouldn't be surprised if my oil cooler starts leaking from the old aluminum threads in the near future.

Jake@JHM, question for you....I installed the lines but didn't use the included rubber standoff for the PS cooler (everything looks like it has enough space). Is there a picture of this installed somewhere? I couldn't find one online and there's no instructions. I'm not sure where exactly it goes.

[Jake@JHM]

Yea, after actually doing the job I should have just gone for the whole cooler and lines. Figured I would try to save some cash and just do the lines but you'll most likely end up messing up the cooler as well anyway in which case you'll just be spending MORE money for lines and cooler. Wouldn't be surprised if my oil cooler starts leaking from the old aluminum threads in the near future.

Jake@JHM, question for you....I installed the lines but didn't use the included rubber standoff for the PS cooler (everything looks like it has enough space). Is there a picture of this installed somewhere? I couldn't find one online and there's no instructions. I'm not sure where exactly it goes.

The stand off replaces the smaller stock one that is attached to the OEM power steering lines. It just creates more room for the lines to prevent rubbing etc..

[RSRichie]

The stand off replaces the smaller stock one that is attached to the OEM Oil Cooler. It just creates more room for the lines to prevent rubbing etc..

Isn't the stand off for the power steering lines/cooler to give a touch more clearance from the oil lines on the front right (as you look at it) hand side?

[Jake@JHM]

Isn't the stand off for the power steering lines/cooler to give a touch more clearance from the oil lines on the front right (as you look at it) hand side?

Yes! I meant to say power steering. Thank you for catching me on that. I took a picture of where it goes. (just underneath the hanging connector in the photo)

[RSRichie]

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That's the one Jake :-).

Unfortunately I bought my set of lines via another guy here in the UK that didn't need them (brand new) but he had mislaid the standoff so I shimmed the original out a touch.

Good product though and hopefully I can forget about oil cooler issues from now on

[Jake@JHM]

That's the one Jake :-).

Unfortunately I bought my set of lines via another guy here in the UK that didn't need them (brand new) but he had mislaid the standoff so I shimmed the original out a touch.

Good product though and hopefully I can forget about oil cooler issues from now on

oh right on!

[first.last]

Ahh ok I see. I had just enough clearance that the lines weren't touching but maybe a little too close for comfort, will add the spacer in there. Sweet, thanks!

[blubusdrvr]

The stand off replaces the smaller stock one that is attached to the OEM power steering lines. It just creates more room for the lines to prevent rubbing etc..

That definitely wasn't in my kit. That explains a lot actually. I was cursing the "fit" of the lines.

[SnoozEviL]

go for JHM. my oil temp was at least 5-10 degree higher than water temp. after that it was lowered 1-3 degree diff

[first.last]

Jake@JHM, question for you and it might be a long shot....

I installed these lines and everything was going fine but recently they developed a small leak/weeping. (I've driven the car probably less than 1k miles since installing). The line it self looks fine but it's leaking slightly at the joint where the line connects to the elbow adapter. On the block side of the lines (circled in the picture). I'm guessing it's just not tight enough.

So, my question is do you happen to know what size wrench I need to tighten this? The actual connections on the end of the line are 32mm but these are smaller and I don't think I have the right size wrench.

[Jake@JHM]

Should be a 30mm!

If it still seeping after you snug it up let me know so you can send it back to us.

[first.last]

Great, thanks....just the info I needed. I'll tighten everything up and let you know.

[dreamRSallday]

Reviving an old thread so I don't have to start a new one.

Can someone tell me if the 32mm connection on the oil cooler line where it goes onto the oil cooler, if this is reverse thread? Im having a real difficult time getting this fitting off and just want to make sure I am not trying to take it off the wrong way.

Also, if anyone can chime in for a way they stabilized their oil cooler to actually gain leverage to take this 32mm fitting/line off? I completely removed my oil cooler and lines from the car

[your daddy]

its corroded . if you force it, and ruin the threads, you need a new cooler.

[dreamRSallday]

No luck. Kind of expected it reading through these old threads before attempting it. Monday I'll take it to work where I can use the vice, apply some heat, and have an extra set of hands.

[Brasco]

The JHM lines are nice and thicker but isn't the culprit here the connection between the cooler and the fittings on the hoses because of the dissimilar metals?

[blubusdrvr]

The JHM lines are nice and thicker but isn't the culprit here the connection between the cooler and the fittings on the hoses because of the dissimilar metals?

Yes indeedy. Aluminum and Steel don't get along very well. The JHM lines have aluminum fittings so this doesn't happen again. I recommend getting the old lines off first before ordering something because if you do need a new oil cooler the Forge setup is a really nice alternative to OEM (and much cheaper).

[GrandMarkie]

I'll be replacing my starter and motor mounts soon...do you guys think the cooler/lines should be done at the same time since i'll be in the service position?

[VinnysS4]

Yes. It's one of those "while you're in there" parts. I recently had my engine out. I looked at my power steering lines and thought, man this would be a bitch to change with the engine in... well 2 weeks after putting my engine back in, one of my lines sprung a leak. Yay me.

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