Anyone running a USP test pipe? Got a question about the hardware

[RakkCity]

I installed it today, along with an ebay downpipe.

My question is, the test pipe came with studs, which are meant to thread into the test pipe holes, and self-locking nuts that secure the downpipe to the TP. When I threaded the studs into the TP, they didn't really go in that far at all. I'm worried that after multiple heat cycles, the expansion and contraction might develop an exhaust leak. Tried googling and searching USP's website but nothing came up in regards to the install hardware.

Thanks in advance!

[mscottdemarco]

assuming that you dont have an aftermerket exhaust that came with a downpipe, how different is your down pipe from an oem downpipe? Is the diameter larger or the resonators are removed or something? Im just curious why you installed that. The testpipe looks a good deal longer than the stock cat was. How is the fitment now that you have it together?

Studs are used to secure the testpipe to the turbo. I believe your downpipe should use 3 bolts to secure it to the testpipe. If you are lacking some in your kit, take that stud to home depot and get a short grade 8 bolt. They have a little panel on the shelf somewhere you can identify the thread size from.

You have got to have a rather significant exhaust leak. here is a kit to fix your exhaust if you like to spend money. I recommend the home depot trick tho.

https://store.034motorsport.com/hard...tallation.html




I just saw what you are doing. That looks like a nightmare.

[RakkCity]

assuming that you dont have an aftermerket exhaust that came with a downpipe, how different is your down pipe from an oem downpipe? Is the diameter larger or the resonators are removed or something? Im just curious why you installed that. The testpipe looks a good deal longer than the stock cat was. How is the fitment now that you have it together?

Studs are used to secure the testpipe to the turbo. I believe your downpipe should use 3 bolts to secure it to the testpipe. If you are lacking some in your kit, take that stud to home depot and get a short grade 8 bolt. They have a little panel on the shelf somewhere you can identify the thread size from.

You have got to have a rather significant exhaust leak. here is a kit to fix your exhaust if you like to spend money. I recommend the home depot trick tho.

https://store.034motorsport.com/hard...tallation.html




I just saw what you are doing. That looks like a nightmare.

Thanks for the info, the downpipe is a little larger than stock (2.5" I believe). It slides over the factory exhaust on the tail end, and I'll use the factory clamp back there. Up front, however, the factory downpipe wouldn't change what's going on with this TP. The factory setup uses bolts and nuts to secure the two pieces together. However, the USP TP came with loose self-locking nuts and threaded studs that were not pre-installed, and the holes on the TP are threaded to receive the studs. The DP holes are bigger and unthreaded, so no problem there. I would've expected them to pre-install the studs, since there is no hex section or any other means to install the studs in the TP, aside from using some channel locks and fucking up the threads. You're right through, getting 3 bolts to replace the studs/nuts would be a much more direct route.

Edited to add: fitment is great actually, the factory spring mount even matches up perfectly with the bracket on the DP. Here's a link to the product https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks, I'll be firing everything up early next week and if there's any leaks I'll just take a stud out and go match it with a grade 8 bolt somewhere.

Nightmare? Nooo, I'm having so much fun with this car! Then again I love to

[Ringsby4]

I installed it today, along with an ebay downpipe.

My question is, the test pipe came with studs, which are meant to thread into the test pipe holes, and self-locking nuts that secure the downpipe to the TP. When I threaded the studs into the TP, they didn't really go in that far at all. I'm worried that after multiple heat cycles, the expansion and contraction might develop an exhaust leak. Tried googling and searching USP's website but nothing came up in regards to the install hardware.

Thanks in advance!

So I've got a USP high flow cat which probably isn't too different from your tp as far as the flange go's,I just used two nuts locked together and some permanent locktite and screwed the studs in to flush.I also have an OBX dp all mated up fine except the combination moved the setup to (your) passenger side about 10mm...the upshot of which is that I am now just using one side of the double exhaust hanger in front of the resonator,I got the gas torch and bent the other side right out of the way after I rubbed a slight groove in my tailshaft..Don't crank the mount with the spring up tight and use a # 10 exhaust clamp over the slip over dp to OEM.

[Okedokey]

So does this HFC simply replace the stock with the stock exhaust?

[Ringsby4]

So does this HFC simply replace the stock with the stock exhaust?

Yea,it will bolt up to the stock dp,in fact I ran it like this for a few weeks until my OBX dp turned up.More performance gain from the 200 cell cat than from then adding the dp but still noticeable albeit at higher revs

[RakkCity]

Thank you! Unfamiliar with exhaust, what's a #10 clamp? I was just going to reuse the stock clamp, but haven't checked yet to see if it'll slide over the DP

[Ringsby4]

Thank you! Unfamiliar with exhaust, what's a #10 clamp? I was just going to reuse the stock clamp, but haven't checked yet to see if it'll slide over the DP

No the stock clamp wont fit,its designed for only the dia of the OEM pipe,now you're dealing with 2 1/4" o.d. which is a #10 std U bolt type clamp.Be ready for the slight alignment error bolting up the tp and dp as the jig their made on only has to be a few mm out and this error over the 4 feet or so can cause the problem outlined earlier,just have that MAP gas torch ready ! Good luck and get ready for the great gains