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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings cspcrx's Avatar
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    My rearend is not centered

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    Since putting on the new wheels and wider tires I noticed that the right rear sticks out more and the left rear is tucked more. I found a few threads on this with respect to alignment of the rear subframe. Car has never been in an accident and its not off a lot. I noticed it when getting fuel yesterday.

    Just curious if anyone knows the acceptable specs on this? I could not find that anywhere. My OCD has to appeased.

    Thanks all.
    2012 Ibis P+ / DSG / Silk Napa / B&O / Sport Diff. / ADS lite / MMI & Nav / APR Stage 2+ & TCU Tuned / Ultra Charger / 184mm KI LIL BITCH / ECS Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Intake / AMS Alpha Cooler / ECS 2-Piece Rotors / Akebono Pads / VMR 803 19x9.5 ET45 265-35-19 PSS / ECS Drivetrain Bushing Inserts / CR-15

    11.8 @ 116mph 2487DA on 93oct file Stage 2+

    THEN THEN THEN Rinse & Repeat!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings Canvasoso's Avatar
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    Sounds like two of the wheels are not the same offset.
    Current: 2018 RS3 / Dynamic / Technology / Carbon / 7HE / Daytona Gray / Alu Optics
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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings ShelbyM3's Avatar
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    I had a friend who had a B7 A4 he had an Accuair setup installed on and he had the same issue. Never heard of a resolution.


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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings ryanhmusic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cspcrx View Post
    Since putting on the new wheels and wider tires I noticed that the right rear sticks out more and the left rear is tucked more. I found a few threads on this with respect to alignment of the rear subframe. Car has never been in an accident and its not off a lot. I noticed it when getting fuel yesterday.

    Just curious if anyone knows the acceptable specs on this? I could not find that anywhere. My OCD has to appeased.

    Thanks all.
    if you want to DIY:

    1. Set the camber on both rear wheels as high as possible.

    2. Measure distance from lip of wheel to inner fender on both sides

    3. Loosen four rear subframe bolts while supporting subframe with a good floor jack

    4. Lower jack a touch to take the pressure off and nudge the subframe until you have equalized the distance on both sides

    5. Raise jack back all the way again

    6. Remeasure both sides of wheel lip to inner fender -- if it has been successfully equalized, tighten the subframe again

    7. Put camber back to where you want it [or i'd recommend just going for an alignment at this point]

    8. Replace subframe bolts one by one as I believe they're TTY bolts. Even if they're not, they're pretty pivotal to keeping the whole car in one piece...given the price of bolts, I'd replace them for piece of mind.

    I don't know torque specs offhand for your car, sorry --- they're definitely available online though.

    edit: the dealer may do this for you if you feel like paying for it but given how simple it is, I wouldn't bother...

    I'm going to be doing this a week or two from now for a friend on a B8 as well so I can take photos for you and do a DIY if you want to wait.
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  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings infinkc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShelbyM3 View Post
    I had a friend who had a B7 A4 he had an Accuair setup installed on and he had the same issue. Never heard of a resolution.


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    Same also, have a friend with the same. He was told that it was how Audi sets up the rear end on purpose for an offset.
    There are 10 kinds of people in this world, those who know binary and those who don't.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    My 2012 S4 was like this, and now my 2015 S4 is the same way. Both cars had the rear wheel camber set the same side to side. On my 2015 it is to the point where I am using a 10mm spacer on the rear driver and a 5mm spacer on the rear passenger, and the distance from the tire sidewall to the fender is just about the same side to side.
    SOLD 2015 Daytona Gray S4
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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings ryanhmusic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveYem View Post
    My 2012 S4 was like this, and now my 2015 S4 is the same way. Both cars had the rear wheel camber set the same side to side. On my 2015 it is to the point where I am using a 10mm spacer on the rear driver and a 5mm spacer on the rear passenger, and the distance from the tire sidewall to the fender is just about the same side to side.
    stop living with it and fix it -- you'll be really happy you did not just for aesthetics but also for driving at higher speeds.
    I'm living for the day I can park something Italian inside of my house.

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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings cspcrx's Avatar
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    I have not measured it or thrown my camber gauge on to see which it is. Suspension is all stock and as best as I know alignment has never been touched. No signs of issues.

    The OCD side of me noticed it and I recall others talking about it before. Just didn't know if there was a spec that was allowed. If you do recenter it an alignment will be needed because of the change.
    2012 Ibis P+ / DSG / Silk Napa / B&O / Sport Diff. / ADS lite / MMI & Nav / APR Stage 2+ & TCU Tuned / Ultra Charger / 184mm KI LIL BITCH / ECS Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Intake / AMS Alpha Cooler / ECS 2-Piece Rotors / Akebono Pads / VMR 803 19x9.5 ET45 265-35-19 PSS / ECS Drivetrain Bushing Inserts / CR-15

    11.8 @ 116mph 2487DA on 93oct file Stage 2+

    THEN THEN THEN Rinse & Repeat!

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings SinCityA6's Avatar
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    I had the same issue on my A6. sub frame was shifted toward the passenger side. When I had the alignment done, had them measure and adjust the subframe back to center.
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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings cspcrx's Avatar
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    did a dealer do the alignment or an outside shop?

    Thanks
    2012 Ibis P+ / DSG / Silk Napa / B&O / Sport Diff. / ADS lite / MMI & Nav / APR Stage 2+ & TCU Tuned / Ultra Charger / 184mm KI LIL BITCH / ECS Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Intake / AMS Alpha Cooler / ECS 2-Piece Rotors / Akebono Pads / VMR 803 19x9.5 ET45 265-35-19 PSS / ECS Drivetrain Bushing Inserts / CR-15

    11.8 @ 116mph 2487DA on 93oct file Stage 2+

    THEN THEN THEN Rinse & Repeat!

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cspcrx View Post
    Since putting on the new wheels and wider tires I noticed that the right rear sticks out more and the left rear is tucked more. I found a few threads on this with respect to alignment of the rear subframe. Car has never been in an accident and its not off a lot. I noticed it when getting fuel yesterday.

    Just curious if anyone knows the acceptable specs on this? I could not find that anywhere. My OCD has to appeased.

    Thanks all.
    I have this same issue after I installed kw has and 20x10 wheels. My passenger rear tire rubs but not in the driver side. Looks like it pokes a little more on the passenger side. The camber is 1.9 on both sides. Maybe my subframe is not aligned? I think I'm going to bring it back to the shop and have them check it out!

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Audizine mobile app

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings PitchS4's Avatar
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    Mine pokes every so slightly more on the driver side but I don't let it bug me

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanhmusic View Post
    stop living with it and fix it -- you'll be really happy you did not just for aesthetics but also for driving at higher speeds.
    Sounds expensive, no?
    SOLD 2015 Daytona Gray S4
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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings SinCityA6's Avatar
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    My rearend is not centered

    Quote Originally Posted by SteveYem View Post
    Sounds expensive, no?
    Any good alignment shop that can do a four wheel alignment should be able to do this as part of the service. I paid $110 at my local Indy shop for everything. While the car was in the alignment rack, they hooked a strap to the passenger side of the subframe and attached to the driver side of the rack, then used a "come along" attached the the body of the car in the driver side and hooked it to the passenger side of the rack. Once all hooked up and tightened, they loosened the subframe bolts and used the come along to ratchet the body over. When the body was centered on the subframe, they torqued down the subframe bolts and released the tension on the straps.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app
    '09 C6.5 A6
    M: 3.0t, GIAC/AWE Stg II+, Roc*Euro Intake
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    E: Ibis White, 15% Tint, Smoked Corners, Tinted Tails, S4 Rockers, S6 Blades, RS6 Grill, OEM Splitters (F/R)
    S: H&R Springs/Sways, Koni FSDs, Adams Rotors, Akebono Pads, SS Brake Lines, Paint Matched Calipers, Niche Misano M116 Wheels

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings superswiss's Avatar
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    Didn't know this was a common issue. Had this on my RS5. Took me a while to notice after putting on spacers, but one day I noticed something was off. Took it to the dealer and they shifted the subframe and did a full alignment. Was all taken care of under warranty.
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  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Sorry to bump an old thread but I'm wondering if there's any reputable shop in Wa that can do this. I'm on air suspension and can't air out all the way because the driver side pokes out a few mm more hitting the spot where the bumper and rear quarter panel meet. I've tried 2 different alignment shops which won't even touch the subframe and another shop that just tried to upsell me on their custom control arms.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    so big o tires is qualified?

  18. #18
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fresh.S4 View Post
    so big o tires is qualified?
    I'm not sure, haven't gone there yet. How was your experience?

  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings fivefan's Avatar
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    Just chiming in that I have this same issue. Stock suspension. Aligned. Really annoying when you add spacers and/or lower ET. I posted a very similar question several months ago. It's about 5-6mm off. Driver side is tucked in more.

    I asked my Audi dealer to look at it TWICE but they basically said they couldn't do anything about it, so I gave up with them. I may ask an indie shop in the future.

    Hope you have better luck.
    Last edited by fivefan; 06-14-2020 at 09:22 PM.
    2015 Daytona S5 coupe / S tronic / quattro w sport diff / tech pkg / black optic pkg

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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    I’ve been living with the issue for years (I even posted in this thread a few years ago). I haven’t found a local shop yet that is willing to identify/acknowledge the issue and fix it. I’m really wondering why Audi designed/built the cars like this. My B8 S4 has the same issue. I suspect it affects every B8/B8.5, but it’s only reported by people who have lowered the car and/or added wider, lower offset wheels or spacers.
    SOLD 2015 Daytona Gray S4
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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings MSq5's Avatar
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    Couldn’t resist reading this thread due to the title, “my rear end is not centered.” The image that phrase brought to mind is of someone with his/her buttocks off to one side in the driver’s seat, or having one cheek larger than the other. Certainly an attention grabber.
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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings Ashtonts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveYem View Post
    I’ve been living with the issue for years (I even posted in this thread a few years ago). I haven’t found a local shop yet that is willing to identify/acknowledge the issue and fix it. I’m really wondering why Audi designed/built the cars like this. My B8 S4 has the same issue. I suspect it affects every B8/B8.5, but it’s only reported by people who have lowered the car and/or added wider, lower offset wheels or spacers.
    This has been an issue on the B6/B7 cars as well, and probably most other Audis. No clue why they do it, but it certainly is annoying.

    It only gets reported on modified cars because you can't really tell on stock suspension with stock wheels with the difference being so minimal. It only becomes apparent when you run wider wheels that fill out the fenders/quarters and then you see that one side is more flush than the other.

    I corrected this by running 1mm wider spacers on one side on my B7. Haven't really noticed it on my B8.5, but I'm sure it probably has it.
    2007 Porsche Cayman | 5MT

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ashtonts View Post
    This has been an issue on the B6/B7 cars as well, and probably most other Audis. No clue why they do it, but it certainly is annoying.

    It only gets reported on modified cars because you can't really tell on stock suspension with stock wheels with the difference being so minimal. It only becomes apparent when you run wider wheels that fill out the fenders/quarters and then you see that one side is more flush than the other.

    I corrected this by running 1mm wider spacers on one side on my B7. Haven't really noticed it on my B8.5, but I'm sure it probably has it.
    It became most apparent on my B8.5 (2015) when I put OEM S5 wheels, 19x9 et33, with OEM spec 255/35-19 tires on the car and was getting severe rubbing at rear passenger corner with no rubbing at all rear driver corner. Without taking precise measurements I'd venture a guess that it's a 4-5mm difference in lateral spacing from wheel face to fender comparing side to side. Certainly it's immaterial when running stock wheels/tires and suspension though.
    SOLD 2015 Daytona Gray S4
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  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings MrFunk's Avatar
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    My friend bought a 13' S4 brand new. Had same issue. Noticed it once he added spacers.
    AoA said that this is actually very common. I've never owned a car with this issue - it would drive me nuts.

  25. #25
    Established Member Two Rings fivefan's Avatar
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    Just stumbled across this ... it's an S5 but appears to be similar to what is described in post #4 above ... but with more detail and pictures:


    Thoughts?

    I may try this if I find the time. Not knowing much about the subframe, I'm just wondering if it's safe enough to do under the car by myself.
    2015 Daytona S5 coupe / S tronic / quattro w sport diff / tech pkg / black optic pkg

    Unitronic Stage 1+ 93oct ECU & Stage 2 DSG / Ross-Tech VCDS / RSNav / Michelin PS 4S 265·30ZR20 / 20x9 RS5 rotors / Michelin PS A⁄S 3+ 255·35ZR19 / 19x9 AudiSport rotors / StopTech lines, pads, cryo drilled rotors / KW HAS / Bilstein dampers / 034Motorsport arms / ECS shields / AWE intake / deAutoLED fogs / SunTek Ultra / Opti-Coat Pro / STEK DYNOflex

  26. #26
    Established Member Two Rings fivefan's Avatar
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    I'm finally getting around to having a trusted shop fix this.

    Can someone tell me the correct part number(s) for the four rear subframe stretch bolts on a B8.5 S5 coupe?
    2015 Daytona S5 coupe / S tronic / quattro w sport diff / tech pkg / black optic pkg

    Unitronic Stage 1+ 93oct ECU & Stage 2 DSG / Ross-Tech VCDS / RSNav / Michelin PS 4S 265·30ZR20 / 20x9 RS5 rotors / Michelin PS A⁄S 3+ 255·35ZR19 / 19x9 AudiSport rotors / StopTech lines, pads, cryo drilled rotors / KW HAS / Bilstein dampers / 034Motorsport arms / ECS shields / AWE intake / deAutoLED fogs / SunTek Ultra / Opti-Coat Pro / STEK DYNOflex

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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  28. #28
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by fivefan View Post
    I'm finally getting around to having a trusted shop fix this.

    Can someone tell me the correct part number(s) for the four rear subframe stretch bolts on a B8.5 S5 coupe?
    What did they quote you? This has bugged me ever since lowering my car. I'm a tad to the driver side.
    2021 ///M3 Competition

  29. #29
    Established Member Two Rings fivefan's Avatar
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    Last edited by fivefan; 09-10-2021 at 05:49 AM.
    2015 Daytona S5 coupe / S tronic / quattro w sport diff / tech pkg / black optic pkg

    Unitronic Stage 1+ 93oct ECU & Stage 2 DSG / Ross-Tech VCDS / RSNav / Michelin PS 4S 265·30ZR20 / 20x9 RS5 rotors / Michelin PS A⁄S 3+ 255·35ZR19 / 19x9 AudiSport rotors / StopTech lines, pads, cryo drilled rotors / KW HAS / Bilstein dampers / 034Motorsport arms / ECS shields / AWE intake / deAutoLED fogs / SunTek Ultra / Opti-Coat Pro / STEK DYNOflex

  30. #30
    Established Member Two Rings fivefan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doooooooook View Post
    What did they quote you? This has bugged me ever since lowering my car. I'm a tad to the driver side.
    I don't know yet. I just know it's "the" shop to go to for Audi work and I learned that they will do this. I will post once I find out.
    2015 Daytona S5 coupe / S tronic / quattro w sport diff / tech pkg / black optic pkg

    Unitronic Stage 1+ 93oct ECU & Stage 2 DSG / Ross-Tech VCDS / RSNav / Michelin PS 4S 265·30ZR20 / 20x9 RS5 rotors / Michelin PS A⁄S 3+ 255·35ZR19 / 19x9 AudiSport rotors / StopTech lines, pads, cryo drilled rotors / KW HAS / Bilstein dampers / 034Motorsport arms / ECS shields / AWE intake / deAutoLED fogs / SunTek Ultra / Opti-Coat Pro / STEK DYNOflex

  31. #31
    Senior Member Two Rings jdfelda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doooooooook View Post
    What did they quote you? This has bugged me ever since lowering my car. I'm a tad to the driver side.
    I’ve been quietly dealing with the same issue, so I’d love to hear how this works out for you! I did an at home subframe and camber adjustment which brought it pretty close to where I wanted it. I never replaced the stretch bolts though, so I imagine that could help me get her middled.

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