C5 RS6 Manual Conversion Adapter Kit - Includes Flywheel, Starter, Engine Adapter, HW

[SteveKen]

For sale is a kit for allowing the RS6 to mate with the 01E transmission.

Kit includes:

1. Steel flywheel (~20 lbs) which is designed to work with the clutch P/N for a 2.7T dual mass flywheel.

2. Custom starter, as the stock starter will interfere with he block (and no one wants to grind away material on the block that's pretty much exclusive to just the RS6)

3. Engine - Trans adapter ring that bolts up to the 01E prior to mating to the engine.

4. Hardware to be used in conjunction with a few of the stock bolts for mating the engine to the transmission. (In all, 13 bolts hold the engine and transmission together)

5. Detailed instructions.



All custom parts were professionally designed by 3D laser scanning teh RS6 block and 01E. Engine - Trans adapter and starter nose are CNC'd from 6061 aluminum.

$2250 shipped CONUS

Delivery within 1 week of payment

[erikj]

I'd love to know where I can get that starter motor adapter. I am doing a swap using the same pattern v8 block.

[LittleDozer]

What would this kit run without the flywheel?

[SteveKen]

it will not run without the flywheel. it is custom made with the correct reluctor orientation and 2.2 mm thicker to make up for the added 2.2 mm thickness of the adapter. it is compatible with any clutch and pressure plate that is used for the 2.7T dual mass flywheel.

[SteveKen]

The only other block with this same pattern would be from a D3 A8. If not, chances are that the starter nose will not work for your application.

[Mat D]

id like to buy a manual conversion kit for my rs6 plus, that's on its second torque convertor in 18months lol

[LittleDozer]

it will not run without the flywheel. it is custom made with the correct reluctor orientation and 2.2 mm thicker to make up for the added 2.2 mm thickness of the adapter. it is compatible with any clutch and pressure plate that is used for the 2.7T dual mass flywheel.

Just to confirm, the Clutch Master flywheel made for manual swapped C5 RS6 isn't compatible with your spacer/adapter? https://www.fastaudi.com/store/Clutc...heel-p57656090

[landfill]

Steve are these kits made to order or
are they always available? Also is it not
possible to run a single mass flywheel with this setup? What’s the strongest clutch & flywheel setup you can run with
your kit?

[Wide-66]

His FW is single mass steel. The FW is very nice it is made by aasco (or at least the one i got). I am using an AMD stage plus clutch and it has been great. Steve got me out the kit very fast maybe a week max. Whatever you do dont buy the TTV it is a pile of shit. It will bolt up but the tone ring is machined wrong.

[walkers4]

Available?

[Nollywood]

Never had any issues with any TTV flywheels, and till date, I’ve fitted 16.

Steve’s set up is good, but it will move the engine further forwards by approx. 2.5mm. Not a lot, but with the Audi’s tendency to understeer, every mm in forward length / mass gained is not great.

I was able to mate my D3 block to an 01E, without an adapter plate, using 11 of the 13 bolt holes, after having the block machined, drilled and tapped. I also had some custom clamping billet aluminium brackets made, where it was not possible to drill and tap the block.

Genuine Audi starter motor was used.

Overall cost was just under $320. The greatest inconvenience was physically transporting the engine and transmission to my machinist.

Another cheap option is to swap the internals of the BCY / BRV motor to a C5 A6 V8 / S6 40V block.

[Mr.Allroad]

If I had a RS6, I would definitely jump on this, kuddos to this kit and maker..Great Job

[Wide-66]

Never had any issues with any TTV flywheels, and till date, I’ve fitted 16.

Steve’s set up is good, but it will move the engine further forwards by approx. 2.5mm. Not a lot, but with the Audi’s tendency to understeer, every mm in forward length / mass gained is not great.

I was able to mate my D3 block to an 01E, without an adapter plate, using 11 of the 13 bolt holes, after having the block machined, drilled and tapped. I also had some custom clamping billet aluminium brackets made, where it was not possible to drill and tap the block.

Genuine Audi starter motor was used.

Overall cost was just under $320. The greatest inconvenience was physically transporting the engine and transmission to my machinist.

Another cheap option is to swap the internals of the BCY / BRV motor to a C5 A6 V8 / S6 40V block.

You have done 16 RS6 manual conversions using the ttv?

It moves the motor forward? If anything it will push the driveline back.

I think this is cool but not at all practical if you are only just an RS6 guy with a blown up trans.

Really not cheap by comparison to the adapter kit if you replace all the gaskets/tbelt/machine shop coupled with the overall downtime. I agree for us guys its a good way to go but cant deny the bolt in and go ability if you buy the adapter kit.

Not arguing just for people that dont do their own wrenching block swapping is not a cheap option.

[Nollywood]

You have done 16 RS6 manual conversions using the ttv?

It moves the motor forward? If anything it will push the driveline back.

I think this is cool but not at all practical if you are only just an RS6 guy with a blown up trans.

Really not cheap by comparison to the adapter kit if you replace all the gaskets/tbelt/machine shop coupled with the overall downtime. I agree for us guys its a good way to go but cant deny the bolt in and go ability if you buy the adapter kit.

Not arguing just for people that dont do their own wrenching block swapping is not a cheap option.

No. I have done 16 V8 engine matings to manual gearboxes. The tone ring is not C5 RS6 specific, the TDC trigger is in the same place for all 077-series engines, both 32 and 40V.

Yes. The adapter plate pushes the engine forwards. Both the engine and transmission sit on mounts, that take holes slightly larger than the bolts that go through them. But the transmission is also mated to the shifter, and more importantly, the driveshaft.

The engine on the other hand is not restricted in the same way. In addition, the engine lower consoles are multi-holed, to allow the engine to sit in different orientation.

This is why the 2.7T can be mounted with or without the 11.2mm spacer ring. Losing the spacer ring doesn’t make the transmission move forwards. It makes the engine move rearwards, using the next set of rearward holes in the engine lower consoles.

[Wide-66]

No. I have done 16 V8 engine matings to manual gearboxes. The tone ring is not C5 RS6 specific, the TDC trigger is in the same place for all 077-series engines, both 32 and 40V.

Yes. The adapter plate pushes the engine forwards. Both the engine and transmission sit on mounts, that take holes slightly larger than the bolts that go through them. But the transmission is also mated to the shifter, and more importantly, the driveshaft.

The engine on the other hand is not restricted in the same way. In addition, the engine lower consoles are multi-holed, to allow the engine to sit in different orientation.

This is why the 2.7T can be mounted with or without the 11.2mm spacer ring. Losing the spacer ring doesn’t make the transmission move forwards. It makes the engine move rearwards, using the next set of rearward holes in the engine lower consoles.

So have you done a manual install on a C5 RS6 retaining the 10 bolt crank utilizing ttv’s flywheel specific for this application? I was simply making a PSA that I caught the issue and when it was brought up w Ben Crisp it was ignored. He advised me to move ahead with install brushing me off. Against my better judgement i finished assembly and got the no start. It was nit until then that he told me he had a number of bad flywheels out there but not sure how many. So this guy knowingly advised me to install knowing a potential problem with the tone ring clocking could exist. Thats just shitty.

As for the motor in my RS6 it 100% did not move forward (3 points of constraint on engine) and yes I utilized the original holes in the mounts. The trans mount holes is where that extra distance was made up. Driveshaft cvs had no issue splitting the difference added by the spacer.

Im speaking from my experience RS6 specific in regards to the TTV RS6 specific flywheel.

[SteveKen]

I suppose I should check this thread more often or track it.

Yes. The adapter plate pushes the engine forwards..

This is misleading and debatable. I've always stated the difference factor was 2.2mm since every 2.7T spacer I've mic'd was 10.5 mm and not 11.5 mm. The adapter replaces the 2.7T spacer and is CNC'd from 0.500 in. (12.7 mm) 6061 T6 sheet stock. If they are indeed 11.5 mm then the difference factor is only 1.2 mm.

Anyway, there's enough variance in the engine & trans mounts and the subframe to actually say whether the engine moves or it's just taken up by the prop shaft. Essentially where a 1.2-2.2 mm difference is negligible.

Regardless, 2.2 mm movement in the engine is a non-factor.

[jolio1994]

Can confirm that fitment is on point . Trans and Driveshaft bolt in no problem, and after that the engine drops right into stock center mounting holes. No need to move it forwards...

Thanks again SteveKen, kit literally has had no issues. 10/10

20190331_152144 by Joel Francisco
20190331_152202 by Joel Francisco

[vtraudt]

Is the kit still available?
Is special flywheel needed? Would go with single mass 01E clutch/flywheel combo.

[hahnmgh63]

PM Steve Ken above directly. His kit are very good. He started making them at least 10yrs ago and has made little revisions to perfect them since. I have one from about 5yrs ago and it was about the 3rd or 4th revision, maybe the final revision.

[landfill]

Debating buying a copart rs6 and installing this kit.
Been going back & forth on it forever lol.

[SteveKen]

Debating buying a copart rs6 and installing this kit.
Been going back & forth on it forever lol.

No better time like the present.

PM me if you have any questions or want estimates on the total conversion cost. If you're not afraid, good with a wrench and resourceful, you might be pleasantly surprised.

[jolio1994]

On my 2nd kit with Steve..

As long as I have a 4.2 BcY that needs an 01e /01a I'll be using his kit! I've heard too many horror stories of people having to mix and match with other companies...

Steve's kit gives you everything, just pick you favorite clutch combo and go!

[roofie619]

PM sent time to ditch the autotragic

Sent from my SM-G965U using Audizine mobile app

[BADRS6]

Interested.. call mike @510.393.5182.. ASAP


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[SteveKen]

Still have some of these kits in stock if anyone is interested in a winter project?

[ylab2000]

Hey Steve,
Very interested, as currently have to make a choice, fix broken auto box or manual swap.
Preference would be to manual swap!
Hoping to get some details from you.
Best
A

[vtraudt]

"1. Steel flywheel (~20 lbs) which is designed to work with the clutch P/N for a 2.7T dual mass flywheel."
Why dual mass flywheel, when most 2.7T upgrades use single mass flywheel (to avoid shredding the dual mass under higher torque/power)?

[hahnmgh63]

vtraudt, Steve's kit doesn't use a Dual Mass flywheel, it is a single mass steel. He means it is designed to work with any OEM or aftermarked clutch that works with the OEM 2.7t dual mass flywheel that was in the original 01E 2.7t's. Lots of high Torque clutch's out there. I'm currently running Steve's kit with a Stage 3+ clutch through AMD (can't remember who they source if from) and it works pretty good. A little grabby when cold. Not a lot of miles on it but it holds the Torque of my motor pretty good which is probably just over 500 lb/ft or Torque and 500+ bhp.

[SteveKen]

"1. Steel flywheel (~20 lbs) which is designed to work with the clutch P/N for a 2.7T dual mass flywheel."
Why dual mass flywheel, when most 2.7T upgrades use single mass flywheel (to avoid shredding the dual mass under higher torque/power)?

Exactly what hahnmgh63 said. I wanted to get across the point that the clutch and pressure plate are not a custom item with specialized or proprietary mounting holes, stack height, etc. Any clutch that works with the B5 S4 will fit from a mechanical standpoint.

[vtraudt]

Thanks. Just wanted to make sure that my preferred single mass flywheel high torque 2.7T clutch can be used (Ringer Racing Cerametalic full face stage 4 or 5 https://www.ringer-racing.com/produc...2&categoryId=6)

[SteveKen]

Hey Steve,
Very interested, as currently have to make a choice, fix broken auto box or manual swap.
Preference would be to manual swap!
Hoping to get some details from you.
Best
A

I sent you a PM with my contact info.

[Strzyzowiak]

I have same kit brand new newer used if someone is interested

[zipdoa]

Any long-term manual swapped RS6's on here lately? Looking for feedback on how you feel about the swap.

I found a C5 RS6 Avant locally with a pooched auto for a great price. I didn't enjoy my manual swapped D2 S8 very much (gears way too long/insufficient power) but I think the RS6 wouldn't have that same issue.

[hahnmgh63]

I've got a Swapped 6spd RS6. Did the swap around 5yrs ago. Having the right clutch is a key so you have a good engagement. The clutches actuators are Hydraulic so the pedal effort isn't heavy but high torque clutches can be grabby. 01E is not a drag racing tranny so you shouldn't be doing standing drag starts regularly, if you want that get a Hellcat. I've got a Euro 6spd which should be one of the stronges 01E's made and also has the tall 6th gear for low rpm's on the highway. Gets better MPG overall than the Auto and definitely puts more power to the ground than the Auto (more power losses due to internal slippage).
I was really getting tired of the 5HP inconsistent hookups on full throttle. Had mine rebuilt by 517 transmission and it was better than stock but you could still tell it was inconsistent. If there was a way to program in and convert to the 6HP ZF I would have went that route. They have the extra gear and are a lighter transmission with the later versions have a higher Torque holding capability than the 5HP and a great choice for a touring car but it would have taken some smart people to figure out how to program it to work in place of the 5HP.

[2.ohhh]

You definitely won't be short on power with the RS6...that said, 1st gear is pretty useless. With the Nubcake tune on mine, no matter how fast you think you can shift a manual, it seems like an eternity between 1-2 and 2-3 compared to the time on power to wind it up. If you like to cruise and do a roll into power, it's a blast to wind through 2nd and 3rd gear from 25 mph and up...and a quick downshift at highway speed (or not), and it plants you in a heartbeat. I had a friend riding in mine (a former crotch rocket rider), and we were cruising at 140 with the windows open, dropped the hammer and spiked up to 160 in no time with plenty left on hand...he thought we were doing about 120 with how much torque was left and how planted the car felt. As hahnmgh63 mentions, don't plan on doing standing launches as it's not that fun. Flip side, the manual really wakes up the BCY and it revs in a snap and has torque as far as you have the nerve to take it.

Long story short, if you aren't a drag racer, it is a ton of fun, especially over the auto slug box (even with a TCU tune). Even a ringer stage 5 clutch in mine, pedal feel was stock, but never slipped once.

Edit, forgot to mention, the SteveKen kit makes the swap a breeze...if you did the swap on the D2, you won't have any problems doing the RS6 with the kit.

[jibberjive]

Any long-term manual swapped RS6's on here lately? Looking for feedback on how you feel about the swap.

I found a C5 RS6 Avant locally with a pooched auto for a great price. I didn't enjoy my manual swapped D2 S8 very much (gears way too long/insufficient power) but I think the RS6 wouldn't have that same issue.

If you didn't like your swapped D2 S8, you may not like the swapped RS6.

[Audibot]

You definitely won't be short on power with the RS6...that said, 1st gear is pretty useless. With the Nubcake tune on mine, no matter how fast you think you can shift a manual, it seems like an eternity between 1-2 and 2-3 compared to the time on power to wind it up. If you like to cruise and do a roll into power, it's a blast to wind through 2nd and 3rd gear from 25 mph and up...and a quick downshift at highway speed (or not), and it plants you in a heartbeat. I had a friend riding in mine (a former crotch rocket rider), and we were cruising at 140 with the windows open, dropped the hammer and spiked up to 160 in no time with plenty left on hand...he thought we were doing about 120 with how much torque was left and how planted the car felt. As hahnmgh63 mentions, don't plan on doing standing launches as it's not that fun. Flip side, the manual really wakes up the BCY and it revs in a snap and has torque as far as you have the nerve to take it.

Long story short, if you aren't a drag racer, it is a ton of fun, especially over the auto slug box (even with a TCU tune). Even a ringer stage 5 clutch in mine, pedal feel was stock, but never slipped once.

Edit, forgot to mention, the SteveKen kit makes the swap a breeze...if you did the swap on the D2, you won't have any problems doing the RS6 with the kit.

Having ridden in this car, you run out of open road entirely too quickly! Snap your head back acceleration.

@2.ohhh, how's the Land Cruiser?!