Is the timing belt suppose to be this loose?

[Willënskraft]

This morning I took the engine covers off and found the belt a bit loose on the top, but on the bottom it sits tight. However, yesterday after driving the belt was tight on all ends. Also I noticed that the belt sits near the edge of the cam gear and pushed it back in the middle this morning too.


Video for reference

[gotboost]

That looks fine.

[Willënskraft]

It does run normal, but wanted to make sure. Also, the belt was changed just last year.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

You check the tensioner gap?

[customa4]

Looks normal to me.

[redline380]

Yeah, looks normal. The test is twisting it. Does it go past 90 degrees while twisting?

[Willënskraft]

Looks normal to me.

Yeah, looks normal. The test is twisting it. Does it go past 90 degrees while twisting?

It does look normal and just did the bend test. The belt didn't even bend 90 degrees, it was like this morning.

You check the tensioner gap?

Actually I used the new INA tensioners and no need for the 8mm gap(I think).


Here's some pictures














And this is with the front end off when the belt was finished last year.




I think I might be worrying about nothing...

[diagnosticator]

It looks a little loose to me, the position of the notch in the back plate, should be positioned at about 1 o'clock. Loosen the pulley nut and use an Allen hex wrench in the hex hole in the hub to rotate the pulley hub clockwise until notch is at ~1 o'clock then tighten the nut. Then rotate the crank two revolutions and check the belt tension again.

[walky_talky20]

The "Litens" spring-loaded tensioner (roller) is not installed properly. The black bracket/arm is supposed to seat in the coolant freeze plug in the cylinder head. It may be slightly bent from being improperly installed in it's current position. It should probably be ok to bend back, but you will need to use your judgement. It is critical that it seats properly. If it "jumps out" of the freeze plug position during engine operation, the belt will loose tension immediately. Catastrophic engine damage could result.

I would not feel comfortable starting this engine again. If I was to work on it, I would first disconnect the battery and then push it in the shop.

Also: freaking EXCELLENT photos. Makes my couch-diagnostics much easier. lol

[diagnosticator]

The "Litens" spring-loaded tensioner (roller) is not installed properly. The black bracket/arm is supposed to seat in the coolant freeze plug in the cylinder head. It may be slightly bent from being improperly installed in it's current position. It should probably be ok to bend back, but you will need to use your judgement. It is critical that it seats properly. If it "jumps out" of the freeze plug position during engine operation, the belt will loose tension immediately. Catastrophic engine damage could result.

I would not feel comfortable starting this engine again. If I was to work on it, I would first disconnect the battery and then push it in the shop.

Also: freaking EXCELLENT photos. Makes my couch-diagnostics much easier. lol

Yes you are right. I just installed one of these tensioners and the notch will be about 1 o'clock with the tab in the freeze plug hole. If the nut is torqued properly to spec, the tab can't come out of the freeze plug hole.

[walky_talky20]

Right. Normally it would never be able to come out. But as it has been fully installed with the bracket not seated in the freeze plug, it may have significantly bent the bracket. If he were to bend it back almost into position, but not FULLY, there could be a problem. It might just barely catch the hole and then pop out 1,000 miles later - possibly leading to catastrophic engine damage.

The best advice would be to check it out carefully. If it is bent or damaged in any way, replace with a new part. That roller is available separately for $60-$80. OEM part number: 06A109243A

[Willënskraft]

From my understanding is that, the tensioner will have to be repositioned ASAP? Now would I have to set both cam and crankshaft to TDC?

Also, when you guys mention "notch" is that the hex key hole that's supposed to be set at 1 o' clock?

[Willënskraft]

Updated pictures from the top on the tensioner and what looks like the notch which sits at 1 o'clock.

[Willënskraft]

Hang on let me enlarge those pics.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

See this pic here, I believe they are saying that the black tab needs to be resting in the freeze plug on the head, which is at the 1 o clock position.

Which can be seen here

[Willënskraft]

So this is supposed to go here?

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Not exactly there. See the freeze plug that your line that you just drew went through. That black tab with the 90 angle should rest in that freeze plug. It has the angle for that reason. What was stated earlier is since its not in the spot, the tab may be bent, which you shoukd be able to bend back if it is.

If you move the tab into the position, the cut out on the tab will be in the 1 o'clock position

Like so

[Willënskraft]

Ohh ok I see. But would I need to set it a TDC?

[diagnosticator]

Not exactly there. See the freeze plug that your line that you just drew went through. That black tab with the 90 angle should rest in that freeze plug. It has the angle for that reason. What was stated earlier is since its not in the spot, the tab may be bent, which you shoukd be able to bend back if it is.

If you move the tab into the position, the cut out on the tab will be in the 1 o'clock position

Like so

This is correct.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Ohh ok I see. But would I need to set it a TDC?

Absolutely. Then once done setting everything, rotate the engine as diagnosticator had advised.

[Willënskraft]

Just googled imaged 'b6 freeze plug tensioner', so this is what it's supposed to be?

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Yours is the second pic and yes.

[Willënskraft]

Yours is the second pic and yes.

Actually I haven't done it yet, the pic is from Vortex lol.

I'll have to tackle it first thing in the morning and post an update later.

Also, mucho gracias for all the replies!

[MurkyRivers_A4]

No problem. Glad the other guys chimed in cause I never would have noticed that lol.

I just understood it when they explained it and helped guide you :)

[diagnosticator]

The engine does not need to be set to TDC to retension the timing belt since the timing for the crank and cam sprockets is already set. But it can't hurt to set the engine to TDC with the cam sprocket marks lined up, if you want to confirm correct timing.

[diagnosticator]

From my understanding is that, the tensioner will have to be repositioned ASAP? Now would I have to set both cam and crankshaft to TDC?

Also, when you guys mention "notch" is that the hex key hole that's supposed to be set at 1 o' clock?

No, the notch is the 90 degree cut out in the black back plate.

[diagnosticator]

Just googled imaged 'b6 freeze plug tensioner', so this is what it's supposed to be?

The positioning of the back plate tap in the freeze plug hole, is placed before the pulley hub is rotated clockwise to tension the belt.

[Willënskraft]

Good morning guys! Just took the radiator support off and here's what I'm looking at right now.

So here's the steps and correct me if I'm wrong.

1) Remove radiator support

2) loosen tensioner nut

3) turn the black tab clockwise until it sits in the freeze plug hole

4) use an allen bit to turn the tensioner is tight, then hand tighten the nut

5) use torque wrench to set the nut at 27 Nm

[Willënskraft]

I'll wait for a reply hehe

Also, does anyone have pictures of your own finished tensioner?

[Willënskraft]

I went ahead and did it, this is what I have so far. It's super tight, actually way tighter then before. Now before I tighten the nut, this is how it's suppose to look like right?

[old guy]

Review this: Clicky click®

[Willënskraft]

Review this: Clicky click

Lol I was just reading that and I found the INA instructions paper.





And here it is with the notch aligned with the ridge.






What do you guys think?

[old guy]

That now looks correct. Rotate the engine two revolutions clockwise and recheck the position. If it still looks like that you are good to go.

[Willënskraft]

Had to make a slight adjustment, but after 2 revolutions it sits aligned . And now to put everything back together...

[diagnosticator]

You nailed it. There should be a flat washer under the nut. Thanks for the update!

[Willënskraft]

Just test drove to NAPA for coolant, then rechecked everything. No leaks and car runs normal. Next is to do a TBA. I'll also make an update after one week.


With front end




Cover on




Cover off









Thanks again guys!

[walky_talky20]

Nice work. Good on you for noticing the looseness, and having just the right amount of "ok panic" to get it resolved. And such excellent photos, I can't even.

[Willënskraft]

Nice work. Good on you for noticing the looseness, and having just the right amount of "ok panic" to get it resolved. And such excellent photos, I can't even.

Haha thank you! I actually took pictures of every step and not bad for a potato phone ehh.

[walky_talky20]

^I'm pretty sure it's the photographer. And all that Georgia sun can't hurt, either. ;)

For any future readers, I'm pretty certain the fix in this thread can be achieved without pulling any of the front end off the car. Just popping off the upper t-belt cover should give adequate access to reposition and reset the spring-loaded Litens tensioner.

[Willënskraft]

Did a couple of TBAs and repositioned the snub mount this week. Also, upon start ups it's more "tighter" lack of a better word and coasting seems to stay longer (could be my imagination lol), but overall it is good to go .