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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Very low boost after performing boost leak test

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    Hey guys,

    Car is Stage 3 (K04'd + e85).

    So I have been tracking a random P1177 and P1178 (Bank 1 and 2 - O2 (Lambda) Correction Behind Catalyst: Control Limit Reached) for a couple months now. Clear them and they come back after ~30 miles. Not a big deal they have not affected performance. Rosstech states it can be caused by exhaust leak or intake leak.

    I did originally have an exhaust leak so I had my SSAC system welded completely together (except for Downpipe to Cat V bands). Confirmed no leaks. Light came back just as frequent so I turned my attention to intake related issues.

    Fast forward to 2 weekends ago. I build a boost tester and boost test my system. Builds to 15psi barely and I can hear an audible leak coming from green check valve near F hose. Swapped my diverter valves with the parts car as well (710N). I continue driving the car (thursday) and it boosted and had power but it would studder a bit after letting off a hard 3-4k pull in 5th and 6th (congested traffic highway driving). Drove home no issues but long term trims showing rich condition (-9 and -10%).

    Fast forward to today. I received the green check valve, install it, and do yet another pressure test. Pressure the system to 15PSI (which it easily reached and could go more), let go, and it slowly lost pressure over 28 seconds. Yay, seems everything is good. It retained pressure way better than the pre-check valve test. So I jump in the car and head down the street for some spirited driving... To my dismay the car felt like my old VR6. I tried to boost as much as possible without going over 4500 so I wouldnt mess anything up, however, it wont hit more that 4 psi. The car is a complete dog. Head home and grab my laptop for some logs and start out down the road. Did a quick run and came back.

    Check my logs and Requested boost is fine. Tells me the ECU is not in limp and is trying to tell the turbos it wants boost. My MAF readings are crazy and I dont know how to explain those unless it is directly correlated to the lack of boost.



    First thing I did was test the N75. Pulled one from my parts car and swapped. Same issues. unhooked the WG line entirely, same issues. Does anyone have any suggestions?

    Here is my entire Me7 Log - Click here


    Resolved!!!!

    Here's the series of events:

    1) Pulled vac lines from DV's and went for a drive. Pulled out on to the main road and to my dismay I boosted to ~4 psi. I thought to myself how ridiculous it is that the car runs fine, no smoke, no sounds, good idle, and the damn thing just doesnt want to boost. So I said fuck it lets try to make whatever is wrong worse so I can know what is happening. I give it another WOT to about 4500 and it got better with ~8. I thought wow, whatever it is it is getting better. Gave it another WOT and managed to get 11psi. WOW! Head back home to make some adjustments.
    2) I put it in the old DV's that I removed (vac lines still off), drove it down the street and managed to squeeze 15psi. Ok now I am happy but sad that I have not figured it out. So I thought I was just getting a soft code and the car was in limp. Drive home and scan. No codes... put the capped vac lines back on and give it a go down the road. Bam, 23PSI, back to stage 3 levels!!!

    Lessons Learned:
    1) If you have to do more than one thing at a time and they are simple tasks, do them one at a time. This helps you diagnose issues much easier. I should have followed that principle since I usually follow it during my work. I am a software coder and I always try to do things in chunks or else you get lost in layers of code.
    2) The greatest of all: Dont fix things that arent broken. I proactively swapped my DV's during my boost leakdown test because they were installed on my parts car and had less than 500 miles on them, however, it was not for any reason other than preventative maintenance. Refrain from doing this if you can. And if you have to do it, follow step 1 very closely.


    Big Thanks to Corradovolksb and rguil for the suggestions. Now I understand the N80 and N249 much better than I did before. That self study is pretty good material.
    Last edited by vavJETTAw36; 06-07-2016 at 05:04 PM.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings f4m0u5's Avatar
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    Un hooked wastegate line entirely from n75?

    If thats the case your car should hit max boost since no boost is being sent to open wastegate. If still barely hiting boost you definatley have a turbo/ wastegate issue

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by f4m0u5 View Post
    Un hooked wastegate line entirely from n75?

    If thats the case your car should hit max boost since no boost is being sent to open wastegate. If still barely hiting boost you definatley have a turbo/ wastegate issue
    You would think.

    I cannot even hear the turbos anymore no joke. No spool. No bad sound. No good sound. No sound at all. No smoke from exhaust. Idles fine. Did I really fuck up the turbos performing a boost leak test????

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Zba's Avatar
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    Denver

    If this was the issue beforehand, double check all of your work. Is the check valve installed in the proper orientation?

    - - - Updated - - -

    If this was NOT the issue...

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Correct orientation. You cannot mess it up as it has two different size hoses attached to it. Plus, it would be a major boost leak.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings Corradovolksb's Avatar
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    I had a similar issue to this when both Diverter valves where staying open when I deleted the n249 for a buddy and left a check valve in the feed line to the DV's so they would get vacuum and not release due to the one way valve causing an internal boost leak. The crazy thing was it ran fine except the lack of boost. It was a tial 770 car so it built boost but only 10psi and wouldn't build any more. Once I removed the one way valve the DV's would close and the boost built like normal. Check to make sure your DV's are closing ok.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corradovolksb View Post
    I had a similar issue to this when both Diverter valves where staying open when I deleted the n249 for a buddy and left a check valve in the feed line to the DV's so they would get vacuum and not release due to the one way valve causing an internal boost leak. The crazy thing was it ran fine except the lack of boost. It was a tial 770 car so it built boost but only 10psi and wouldn't build any more. Once I removed the one way valve the DV's would close and the boost built like normal. Check to make sure your DV's are closing ok.
    How do I check the DV's? I could throw the old ones back in. Can I just blow through the charge side with my mouth?

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vavJETTAw36 View Post
    How do I check the DV's? I could throw the old ones back in. Can I just blow through the charge side with my mouth?
    Found this for checking DV's http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Misc/VA...rter_Valve.pdf , however, how would I check them to make sure they are closing during use?

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    boost normal with maf unplugged?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjt671 View Post
    boost normal with maf unplugged?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    I'll try that tomorrow but that doesn't even make sense. How could the maf affect the turbo directly? Turbos work off exhaust pressure, which, I got the car up to 3500 rpm with the wastegate line off so there was no Ecu intervention.


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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings Corradovolksb's Avatar
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    Very low boost after performing boost leak test

    The best way to make sure the DV's are staying closed is to plug the vacuum source to both vales and see if you build boost again but in doing so you will prob trigger a fault for cut off valve mechanical malfunction and go into limp mode but at least you will know if you can build boost or not. If you do then the n249 could be bad allowing vacuum to the valves and not venting it when you are accelerating or Maybe something else hindering your DVs from venting vacuum.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings rguil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corradovolksb View Post
    The best way to make sure the DV's are staying closed is to plug the vacuum source to both vales and see if you build boost again. If so your n249 could be bad allowing vacuum to the valves and not venting it when you are accelerating or Maybe something else hindering your DVs from venting vacuum.
    I agree, looks to be a diverter valve issue if it isnt a boost leak but you would of noticed that already. I also had a problem with my diverter valves staying stuck open due to a stupid kinked hose on the output of my n249. I could barely hit 10psi. If i were you id delete the n249 for a run and install new lines from the manifold to the DVs like corradovolksb is saying

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings LINDW4LL's Avatar
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    It seems like too much of a coincidence that this happened immediately after you were working in the engine bay. I'd re-check everything.
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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LINDW4LL View Post
    It seems like too much of a coincidence that this happened immediately after you were working in the engine bay. Something not hooked up right?
    I agree with you. However, not many things need to come off to perform check valve replacement.

    Accordion, pancake, y pipe, and full access to the check valve. Pop off line coming off the fuel rail to the f hose, replace check valve, and back on. Nothing more was done.

    Following suggestion from riguil and corrado, I will confirm dv function tomorrow.


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  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corradovolksb View Post
    The best way to make sure the DV's are staying closed is to plug the vacuum source to both vales and see if you build boost again but in doing so you will prob trigger a fault for cut off valve mechanical malfunction and go into limp mode but at least you will know if you can build boost or not. If you do then the n249 could be bad allowing vacuum to the valves and not venting it when you are accelerating or Maybe something else hindering your DVs from venting vacuum.
    Resolved!!!!

    Here's the series of events:

    1) Pulled vac lines from DV's and went for a drive. Pulled out on to the main road and to my dismay I boosted to ~4 psi. I thought to myself how ridiculous it is that the car runs fine, no smoke, no sounds, good idle, and the damn thing just doesnt want to boost. So I said fuck it lets try to make whatever is wrong worse so I can know what is happening. I give it another WOT to about 4500 and it got better with ~8. I thought wow, whatever it is it is getting better. Gave it another WOT and managed to get 11psi. WOW! Head back home to make some adjustments.
    2) I put it in the old DV's that I removed (vac lines still off), drove it down the street and managed to squeeze 15psi. Ok now I am happy but sad that I have not figured it out. So I thought I was just getting a soft code and the car was in limp. Drive home and scan. No codes... put the capped vac lines back on and give it a go down the road. Bam, 23PSI, back to stage 3 levels!!!

    Lessons Learned:
    1) If you have to do more than one thing at a time and they are simple tasks, do them one at a time. This helps you diagnose issues much easier. I should have followed that principle since I usually follow it during my work. I am a software coder and I always try to do things in chunks or else you get lost in layers of code.
    2) The greatest of all: Dont fix things that arent broken. I proactively swapped my DV's during my boost leakdown test because they were installed on my parts car and had less than 500 miles on them, however, it was not for any reason other than preventative maintenance. Refrain from doing this if you can. And if you have to do it, follow step 1 very closely.


    Big Thanks to Corradovolksb and rguil for the suggestions. Now I understand the N80 and N249 much better than I did before. That self study is pretty good material.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings rguil's Avatar
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    So what was broken? lol

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings Corradovolksb's Avatar
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    Your welcome. I'm glad you got it fixed. Now enjoy it 🏻

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rguil View Post
    So what was broken? lol
    DVs were stuck open. Not from vacuum probably dry or something.


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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
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    You can take those DVs apart (depending on what type they are) and regrease them, had the same issue with my Saab back in the day when the Forge BOV I had stuck open.
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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by christianb5s4 View Post
    You can take those DVs apart (depending on what type they are) and regrease them, had the same issue with my Saab back in the day when the Forge BOV I had stuck open.
    710n


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