Dealer Parts vs Aftermarket - Timing Belt, Water Pump, Motor Mounts

[JKCutler3]

I am going to put my baby in the shop to have the timing belt, water pump and motor mounts replaced. (I get a vibration through the entire car when I accelerate consistently, like getting on highways.) I was told that they could "most likely" knock off a couple hours labor if they do the mounts at the same time opposed to a second job. They want $200+ per mount and about $80 for a snub mount and about $550 in parts for the timing belt and water pump after all the seals etc.

Is it worth purchasing after market parts for them to install and forfeit any type of dealer parts warranty?

My B6 is completely stock and will most likely remain that way while I have it. I drive about 20k a year and need it to be reliable. Figure RS mounts will probably be too stiff.

034Motorsport's Density Line Mounts
ARP Snub Mount
ECS Tuning Timing Belt Kit w/ Gates Racing Belt

Also, should I have them put in a poly torque dampener?

Thoughts?

[FromS60toB61.8t]

please tell me those prices aren't just labor... Thats insane for mounts...

B5 S4 Febi are really good for the b6. Almost like stock but much more durable.

If you do get an aftermarket timing belt kit, make sure the waterpump isnt GEBA, they are known to fail and grenade engines.

[jesse500]

Order all the parts on your own, then bring car in, with all needed parts in the trunk. You will save a decent amount of money.

Snub Mount - $34.00 http://www.apikol.com/index.php/prod...nub-mount.html

Be careful of waterpump, GEBA ones seem to be seizing left, right and center.

Also, if you want to go big with the mount upgrades, go 034 street density motor mounts, trans mount, and rear diff insert. Then email 034, they will get you a little bit of a better price, for a "package" deal. Otherwise Get some B5 S4 mounts, good option: https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_S4...Mounts/ES2713/

[Turbavanttro]

If you are keeping the car, and can afford the cost of OEM parts, that is almost always my suggestion. Especially for critical function parts like water pumps, timing tensioner, etc. Or at least go for the non-Audi branded part that is made by the same manufacturer. of the Audi-branded part.

[jesse500]

If you are keeping the car, and can afford the cost of OEM parts, that is almost always my suggestion. Especially for critical function parts like water pumps, timing tensioner, etc. Or at least go for the non-Audi branded part that is made by the same manufacturer. of the Audi-branded part.

For T-belt, tensioner, Waterpump, and pulleys, I would agree, OEM is a decent option. But aftermarket belts like gates are just as good, or better, for less money. And as far as motor, snub, tranny, etc.... mounts, aftermarket is far superior

[JKCutler3]

Thanks for the advice guys. Yea I've seen that about the GEBA pumps. Id like to stay OEM with anything internal, that way its on the dealers hands if anything fails.


I'm going to get an itemized invoice from the dealer and see what the difference is cost will be.

[Gin+]

I am going to put my baby in the shop to have the timing belt, water pump and motor mounts replaced. (I get a vibration through the entire car when I accelerate consistently, like getting on highways.) I was told that they could "most likely" knock off a couple hours labor if they do the mounts at the same time opposed to a second job. They want $200+ per mount and about $80 for a snub mount and about $550 in parts for the timing belt and water pump after all the seals etc.

Is it worth purchasing after market parts for them to install and forfeit any type of dealer parts warranty?

My B6 is completely stock and will most likely remain that way while I have it. I drive about 20k a year and need it to be reliable. Figure RS mounts will probably be too stiff.

I wouldn't replace the mounts unless you can reasonably determine they have failed. Same thing for the cam and crank seals. I would also insist on bringing your own parts and let the shop owner/manager you are an enthusiast.

[JKCutler3]

I wouldn't replace the mounts unless you can reasonably determine they have failed. Same thing for the cam and crank seals. I would also insist on bringing your own parts and let the shop owner/manager you are an enthusiast.

The mounts have definitely failed. Oil leaked out of the one and the other appears to have dry rot/cracks.

I spoked with my rep at the dealer today. When I get the estimate I'll post it up in case anyone was curious about costs at the dealer.

[SJorge3442]

The mounts have definitely failed. Oil leaked out of the one and the other appears to have dry rot/cracks.

I spoked with my rep at the dealer today. When I get the estimate I'll post it up in case anyone was curious about costs at the dealer.

Dealer + those parts is gonna be a scary high bill. I'm guessing $2,500+.

[customa4]

I paid ~$2,000 to have my timing belt job done at the dealer a few years ago. I have since taken up the task on my own. Ridiculous amount of money to spend on a job that is not that difficult.

[JKCutler3]

Subtotal Sales Tax Total
Timing Belt and Tensioner - Replace
TIMING BELT, TENSIONER, ROLLER, WATERPUMP - $1017.25 5Hrs Labor - $468 in Parts / $550 in Labor
General repair
MOTOR MOUNTS - $975 $460 in Parts / $515 in Labor
General repair
SNUB MOUNT -- NO CHARGE LABOR WITH TIMING BELT - $28 0 Labor

$2020.25 Total

Looks like 4.5 hours of labor to do the motor mounts while you're already tearing apart the front end? Doesn't make sense to me. I'll buy the 034 mounts off ECS and look for another way to get them installed.

Timing belt - $468 in parts compared to $300 for the ECS kit. I'd essentially be paying $168 for the warranty by the dealership. And $550 in labor of course.

Thoughts on OEM vs Aftermarket Fuel Filters? Thinking about a MANN from Advanced but I'm not sure about quality.

[diagnosticator]

MANN filters are OEM quality.

[FromS60toB61.8t]

Subtotal Sales Tax Total
Timing Belt and Tensioner - Replace
TIMING BELT, TENSIONER, ROLLER, WATERPUMP - $1017.25 5Hrs Labor - $468 in Parts / $550 in Labor
General repair
MOTOR MOUNTS - $975 $460 in Parts / $515 in Labor
General repair
SNUB MOUNT -- NO CHARGE LABOR WITH TIMING BELT - $28 0 Labor

$2020.25 Total

Looks like 4.5 hours of labor to do the motor mounts while you're already tearing apart the front end? Doesn't make sense to me. I'll buy the 034 mounts off ECS and look for another way to get them installed.

Timing belt - $468 in parts compared to $300 for the ECS kit. I'd essentially be paying $168 for the warranty by the dealership. And $550 in labor of course.

Thoughts on OEM vs Aftermarket Fuel Filters? Thinking about a MANN from Advanced but I'm not sure about quality.

The timing belt price at the dealer really isnt too bad and am honestly quite shocked. Most shops charge $800-$1000...

The motor mounts though... Insane haha. Its like a 1Hr job even if you dont touch anything in the engine bay.

[2fast4u66]

Have you had bluewater quote this?

[V70R]

MANN filters are OEM quality.

Mann fuel filters for b6 platforms have a Chinese COO and increased audible sound when installed, and are avoided by most Indy shops in Portland. Kayser or KYG fuel filters are the OE supplier and the only filter I would consider. Mann oil, air and cabin filters are OE quality, and recommend when given the option for purchase.

[diagnosticator]

Mann fuel filters for b6 platforms have a Chinese COO and increased audible sound when installed, and are avoided by most Indy shops in Portland. Kayser or KYG fuel filters are the OE supplier and the only filter I would consider. Mann oil, air and cabin filters are OE quality, and recommend when given the option for purchase.

I did not know this about the MANN fuel filters. There should be German made MANN fuel filters in the retail channel as well. Thanks for the correction.

[rocket1420]

Subtotal Sales Tax Total
Timing Belt and Tensioner - Replace
TIMING BELT, TENSIONER, ROLLER, WATERPUMP - $1017.25 5Hrs Labor - $468 in Parts / $550 in Labor
General repair
MOTOR MOUNTS - $975 $460 in Parts / $515 in Labor
General repair
SNUB MOUNT -- NO CHARGE LABOR WITH TIMING BELT - $28 0 Labor

$2020.25 Total

Looks like 4.5 hours of labor to do the motor mounts while you're already tearing apart the front end? Doesn't make sense to me. I'll buy the 034 mounts off ECS and look for another way to get them installed.

Timing belt - $468 in parts compared to $300 for the ECS kit. I'd essentially be paying $168 for the warranty by the dealership. And $550 in labor of course.

Thoughts on OEM vs Aftermarket Fuel Filters? Thinking about a MANN from Advanced but I'm not sure about quality.

Those parts prices are crazy. $460 for motor mounts, and $28 for a snub mount? OE mounts are only $300 on ECS. As others have said, get the 034 engine mounts. You should be able to get free shipping on all of your parts from ECS if you get the ECS snub mount (yes, they carry the 034 parts you'll need too). Either contact ECS and get them to change out the GEBA pump, or piece it together yourself.

[JKCutler3]

Have you had bluewater quote this?

No I haven't but I'll damn sure give them a call

Mann fuel filters for b6 platforms have a Chinese COO and increased audible sound when installed, and are avoided by most Indy shops in Portland. Kayser or KYG fuel filters are the OE supplier and the only filter I would consider. Mann oil, air and cabin filters are OE quality, and recommend when given the option for purchase.

That's why I asked. When I saw "Made in China" I was a little skeptical. Thanks for the heads up!

[V70R]

For sure! I see you're in Denver, RM European is pretty close to ya, they're an awesome source and have great prices for OEM or genuine Audi parts.


Edit- attached a late B6 with internal FPR screenshot from RMeuropean.com for $35.28

[JKCutler3]

For sure! I see you're in Denver, RM European is pretty close to ya, they're an awesome source and have great prices for OEM or genuine Audi parts.


Edit- attached a late B6 with internal FPR screenshot from RMeuropean.com for $35.28

Picking it up tomorrow!

[Human Garbage]

I can only echo the use of OEM parts. I went for that $300 ECS timing belt kit. Crap ass Uro tensioner failed at 28,000 km. I got to do the job all over again to replace it. If you are paying someone else to wrench then its hardly worth it. Not to mention that it came close to making my pistons meet valves. It was two teeth off when I replaced it. Still mad at myself for cheaping out. Never again.

[JKCutler3]

Have you had bluewater quote this?

Just had them do my timing belt and water pump for just under $1k. However, I had a fault code for the thermostat when they first checked it. After the install, the car is now overheating and they want another $500 for the thermostat or give it back to me overheating...... Car was not overheating when I brought it to them....

[imnuts]

Was the thermostat changed with the service?

Sent from my DROID Turbo 2

[JKCutler3]

Was the thermostat changed with the service?

Nope, told me about the code after the belt and water pump were done.

[jayiszraw]

Nope, told me about the code after the belt and water pump were done.

That sucks what was their response when you told them the car did not have that issue when it was brought in?

[MacFady]

Those parts prices are crazy. $460 for motor mounts, and $28 for a snub mount? OE mounts are only $300 on ECS.

Agreed, very high quote IMO. Just FYI, you can get B5 S4 mounts for your car for <$50/ea (Febi or Meyle) - (OE S4 mounts for $108 @ ECS BTW). The install is easy (<1hr) and you have to take the snub mount off to do it anyway. I personally wouldn't pay someone to do that work when you could save hundreds versus where you are taking it apparently. If you do do mounts yourself, do yourself a favor and cut the posts down a little bit, you wont have to raise the engine as high to get them in/out this way and are less likely to "upset" any of your vacuum lines etc. in the process.

[JKCutler3]

That sucks what was their response when you told them the car did not have that issue when it was brought in?

Either I could have it back overheating or pay out another $500 to have thermostat and j-plug replaced. They didn't care it wasn't happening prior to bringing it in. Said it might have been stuck open.

[alimo20]

this is what happened during my own t-belt service doing it myself. the thermostat failed for some reason.

you should fight that tooth-and-nail - you aren't paying them to break stuff on your car.

[SJorge3442]

Either I could have it back overheating or pay out another $500 to have thermostat and j-plug replaced. They didn't care it wasn't happening prior to bringing it in. Said it might have been stuck open.

Damn that blows. Take it back, fix it yourself and contact AoA.

[imnuts]

Odds are that if you didn't have anything done to the thermostat, and I'm pretty sure it isn't touched during a service, the shop isn't going to cover it. Maybe it wasn't overheating when it went in, but how do you know they broke your thermostat? And what makes you think they did for that matter?

Sent from my DROID Turbo 2

[diagnosticator]

I wouldn't replace the mounts unless you can reasonably determine they have failed. Same thing for the cam and crank seals. I would also insist on bringing your own parts and let the shop owner/manager you are an enthusiast.

When guys do this, is cuts a significant part the indy shops profit performing the repairs. It's the same thing as asking for a big discount on labor, possibly resulting in a net negative profit for the the work done. Some shops will refuse to accept work with parts already provided. Other shops may quote a higher labor charge per hour. Most shops consider providing your own replacement parts as rude and inconsiderate business practice. It will also be harder establishing a positive business relationship with the shop since it is viewed as taking advantage of a shops good will toward providing excellent service quality and good value for customers.

[MacFady]

Agreed, but it also allows the owner to have the exact parts they want installed, not the parts the indy shop can get away with the highest mark up on. I don't mind my guy charging more for labor, which he doesn't, if I bring my own parts; it's still cheaper on my end and I know exactly what was installed. Allowing owners to provide their own parts has the added benefit of me deciding to use him exclusively for service I don't want/have time to perform myself for that reason, and not choosing to shop around for the best quoted price.

[SJorge3442]

Agreed, but it also allows the owner to have the exact parts they want installed, not the parts the indy shop can get away with the highest mark up on. I don't mind my guy charging more for labor, which he doesn't, if I bring my own parts; it's still cheaper on my end and I know exactly what was installed. Allowing owners to provide their own parts has the added benefit of me deciding to use him exclusively for service I don't want/have time to perform myself for that reason, and not choosing to shop around for the best quoted price.

This! I know for a fact that most parts indy shops are using are the ones they make the most money on. I mean, that's the logical business decision. When was the last time you heard of a mechanic calling someone up and saying, "Hey, we read you can use b5 S4 engine mounts that are significantly cheaper and supposedly better instead of the same fluid filled mounts you have now. This'll knock $100 of the quoted price". The answer is never. That never happens. As someone who cares about what parts are on my car, I would never let someone else make the decision on parts. That's a whole lotta Nope for me.

[Gin+]

I don't need a lesson in values and I understand how it works. Don't like the terms then don't sign the contract.

[JKCutler3]

Odds are that if you didn't have anything done to the thermostat, and I'm pretty sure it isn't touched during a service, the shop isn't going to cover it. Maybe it wasn't overheating when it went in, but how do you know they broke your thermostat? And what makes you think they did for that matter?

I drive 100+ miles a day. I keep an eye on my temp gauge constantly since my coolant flange blew open last December. My a/c compressor was replaced by the dealer in March, and there was no mention of any coolant issues or codes. I'm not saying they "broke" it, but to get a call, "hey you can come pick it up, but its overheating, or you can shell out more money to have it fixed" is kind of shitty. (They did work with me on price, was $968 for the OEM timing belt/water pump and wanted $500+ for thermostat, but he agreed to come down to $1,400 total prior to doing the work on the thermostat)

Additionally, there were still air bubbles in the system after they returned the car. I have put in an entire bottle of coolant (mixed 50/50) since I've had it back. I'm going to keep an eye on this as I heard conflicting stories when I asked if they did a compression check after the car overheated.

Regarding brining your own parts, I think it is different shop to shop. I asked them about having my motor mounts replaced and they had no problem charging 2-2.5hrs labor if I brought my own mounts.