Are my new wheels safe to run?

[RyanJon]

So I bought some new 20's in et38, when they turned up I'd been sent et32 with 6mm machined off them to make them et38. Now I've been told by my tyre guy that 6mm will take a lot of strength out of them and looking at the amount of depth left in the bolt holes I can see where he's coming from.

Is anyone else running machined wheels or have any experience of doing so?

I regularly have my sisters kids in my car so safety is paramount and I don't want a wheel shearing off on the motorway!

[Rshane]

I wouldn't take chances with the only thing between you and the road.

[hotleadsingergu]

Not a chance. Why they heck would they machine off 6mm instead of just ordering/machining the correct depth?

[sebgreen]

6mm is a massive amount - don't even consider it.


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[Dr GP]

Send them back

[RyanJon]

I didn't machine them, I ordered the right size and this is what I was sent. I questioned it at the time and was told it was nothing to worry about. If it was a simple job I'd send them back but they came all the way from America and cost $600 postage in the first place! So I've now got a $2k set of wheels that have only scrap value!

[switchedstance]

I've had 2 sets of wheels on previous cars that were "decked down" (machined) to attain perfect fitment. Have done 5mm without an issue. It really depends on the thickness of the backpad. Make sure the lug seats have sufficient material at the thinnest point.

[JeromeS13]

The most important question is, who manufactured the wheels? Is it a trusted company? Perhaps they engineer the wheels to allow for these modifications.

[RyanJon]

Are some wheels designed to be machines down then?

These ones have approx 4mm of straight metal left after the taper in the bolt holes if you know what I mean so I assume originally there would have been the taper followed by 10mm of depth which has now lost 60% and is down to 4mm.

The more I think about this the more I think I've had my pants pulled down!

[audibmi]

something else to consider...stock bolt length will be 6mm longer than needed and depending on clearance, may bottom out on the hub, preventing wheels from spinning.

[LYKUNO]

Ouch, the vendor you purchased them from should stand behind them and offer you a refund or some sort of compensation. Basically, you were sold an unsafe product, which puts you life, your passengers, and others at risk should a wheel (or multiple wheels) fail while at speed. Have you contacted the company to inquire as to a solution? If the company you purchased them from is not the manufacturer of the wheels, I would also contact the manufacturer to inform them of what was done to their product. I'm sure they wouldn't want to be co-defendants in a lawsuit over the safety of their wheels. Put your concerns in writing and send to the vendor you purchased from, and send a copy to the manufacturer (so that the vendor is aware that the manufacturer is on notice). I would expect them to make this right for you, and send you a brand new set that is properly manufactured to ensure your satisfaction and safety. Properly handled, getting those wheels replaced should cost you nothing but your time in sending off a letter/email. Stand up for your rights!

[eurotic]

Are some wheels designed to be machines down then?

These ones have approx 4mm of straight metal left after the taper in the bolt holes if you know what I mean so I assume originally there would have been the taper followed by 10mm of depth which has now lost 60% and is down to 4mm.

The more I think about this the more I think I've had my pants pulled down!

4mm of metal does not sound like a lot but how does that compare to the stock wheels you are replacing? I haven't ever measured the stock rim but I just ran out and checked my VMR wheels and they actually seem to only have about 4mm as well. To measure I took a sliding caliper, and measuring from the back pushed the depth probe to the point where it lined up with the bottom edge of the seat. Have you done the same measurement on your stock wheels? How do they compare?

It sounds like your new wheels are cone seat so did you get new bolts with the wheels (many after market wheels use cone seat while Audi wheels use ball seat)? If you have different wheel bolts is the threaded part the same length as the stock bolts? If they are, with the wheel off the car take a wheel bolt put it in the wheel and see how much of the threads poke out. Do this on your new wheels and on the stock wheels and compare. Now that said, if they sent you bolts that are shorter than stock, this test is invalid.

[RyanJon]

Ouch, the vendor you purchased them from should stand behind them and offer you a refund or some sort of compensation. Basically, you were sold an unsafe product, which puts you life, your passengers, and others at risk should a wheel (or multiple wheels) fail while at speed. Have you contacted the company to inquire as to a solution? If the company you purchased them from is not the manufacturer of the wheels, I would also contact the manufacturer to inform them of what was done to their product. I'm sure they wouldn't want to be co-defendants in a lawsuit over the safety of their wheels. Put your concerns in writing and send to the vendor you purchased from, and send a copy to the manufacturer (so that the vendor is aware that the manufacturer is on notice). I would expect them to make this right for you, and send you a brand new set that is properly manufactured to ensure your satisfaction and safety. Properly handled, getting those wheels replaced should cost you nothing but your time in sending off a letter/email. Stand up for your rights!

I don't know if I have any rights seeing as I'm in the uk and I bought them from the USA?

[RyanJon]

4mm of metal does not sound like a lot but how does that compare to the stock wheels you are replacing? I haven't ever measured the stock rim but I just ran out and checked my VMR wheels and they actually seem to only have about 4mm as well. To measure I took a sliding caliper, and measuring from the back pushed the depth probe to the point where it lined up with the bottom edge of the seat. Have you done the same measurement on your stock wheels? How do they compare?

It sounds like your new wheels are cone seat so did you get new bolts with the wheels (many after market wheels use cone seat while Audi wheels use ball seat)? If you have different wheel bolts is the threaded part the same length as the stock bolts? If they are, with the wheel off the car take a wheel bolt put it in the wheel and see how much of the threads poke out. Do this on your new wheels and on the stock wheels and compare. Now that said, if they sent you bolts that are shorter than stock, this test is invalid.

They are cone seat and I was sent some shorter studs with them.

I'd have thought when a set of wheels are manufactured they have to be tested to make sure they are upto the job? (over here they carry a European standard mark). Then if they're tested with 10mm of 'meat' and 6mm is removed they're not going to have been tested in the state I've been sent them and the only way to test if they're safe is to run them and risk my life, my passengers lives and the lives of every other road user?

[torinalth]

the machining can be just fine. VMR builds their wheels to a certain spec then bores the hub and machines the back to fit a particular car. Now,sure some might not work that way, but just saying it is unsafe is not necessarily correct.

[Hofahome]

You paid for the wheels and they are not accurate to your spec. Return them. OR:

1. Get an email from them saying its safe
2. Videotape your wheels getting put on by a shop
3. If/when you crash because of a loose wheel, do what us Americans love and sue the crap out of them
4. Profit

[LINDW4LL]

the machining can be just fine. VMR builds their wheels to a certain spec then bores the hub and machines the back to fit a particular car. Now,sure some might not work that way, but just saying it is unsafe is not necessarily correct.

Right? I was under the impression that many cast wheel companies do it in that manner- change offsets by machining the hub, instead of having to make a separate casting for every available offset.

[Race Shooter]

You need to contact the manufacturer and find out from them if this is ok for their wheel.

Its perfectly acceptable and done that way specifically on many kinds of wheels. It allows for the manufacturer or supplier to stock fewer skus and have fewer raw stock on hand. I bought some TSW wheels many years ago and the supplier only stocked a few "blanks" then would machine them down to the proper offset for the application.

Sounds like your company knew what they were doing if they even supplied you with the proper length wheel bolts to match the wheel thickness.

I wouldnt jump to any conclusion about these being unsafe, like many of the less than informed posters did here, talk to the manufacturer and verify that there is still enough meat on the wheel and that this was within their parameters. If they say its ok, then run them and dont worry about it.

[Skyler@Achtuning]

The area that you want to check is the pad thickness of the lug seats, the typical thickness in this area on an Audi wheel is 8mm (between the mounting face of the wheel and the bottom of the ball or cone seat of the lug). If this was 8mm and is now 2mm the wheels are scrap.

[RyanJon]

The area that you want to check is the pad thickness of the lug seats, the typical thickness in this area on an Audi wheel is 8mm (between the mounting face of the wheel and the bottom of the ball or cone seat of the lug). If this was 8mm and is now 2mm the wheels are scrap.

I've just had a quick measure and there is 4mm left so with 6mm removed they must have started out at 10mm.

So I'm at 50% of what a standard Audi wheel comes with and 40% of what the wheel was made with

[eurotic]

I've just had a quick measure and there is 4mm left so with 6mm removed they must have started out at 10mm.

So I'm at 50% of what a standard Audi wheel comes with and 40% of what the wheel was made with

I think I'm going to get some putty or similar and take an impression of my VMR because I think it's only 4mm thick but I want to get a better measurement. I agree with Race Shooter, call the company and see what they say.

[LINDW4LL]

I've just had a quick measure and there is 4mm left so with 6mm removed they must have started out at 10mm.

I will reiterate what the above poster said- contact the manufacturer with your concerns and see what they say.

What brand are the wheels?

Second, and not of great importance, but I'm curious- How did you come to realize they were machined down to et32? Were they stamped et38?

[RyanJon]

I will reiterate what the above poster said- contact the manufacturer with your concerns and see what they say.

What brand are the wheels?

Second, and not of great importance, but I'm curious- How did you come to realize they were machined down to et32? Were they stamped et38?

I unpacked them and saw et32 stamped on the back, got in touch with the seller thinking they'd sent me the wrong wheels. They said they don't usually do it but they had no 38 in stock so sent some 32's to the machine shop. If they'd have told me they had none in stock I'd have been happy to wait until they did have or if not I'd have had my money back.

[XxSullyxX123]

Dispute with your credit card company if they don't take these back and eat the shipping. That's ridiculous. No way should u bear the brunt of this.

[XxSullyxX123]

and by the way if the seller is an authorized vendor on here, and they don't take care of u, please let us all know.

[RyanJon]

Dispute with your credit card company if they don't take these back and eat the shipping. That's ridiculous. No way should u bear the brunt of this.

I can't even see any reason they would want them back tbh as for me they only hold scrap value as they wont be able to sell them on to anyone else!

- - - Updated - - -

and by the way if the seller is an authorized vendor on here, and they don't take care of u, please let us all know.

And yes they are and I bought them off here!

[XxSullyxX123]

I can't even see any reason they would want them back tbh as for me they only hold scrap value as they wont be able to sell them on to anyone else!

- - - Updated - - -


And yes they are and I bought them off here!

What they would or wouldn't want them back for isn't your problem. You didn't get what u paid for. Your got Modified wheels that may or may not be safe.


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[torinalth]

wow, mean you guys are petty. simple process. call the maker, not vendor, of the wheels and ask about it. post who the MFG is, some of us have extensive relationships with certain manufacturers and can offer insight or get better answers others might not be able to get.

[RyanJon]

wow, mean you guys are petty. simple process. call the maker, not vendor, of the wheels and ask about it. post who the MFG is, some of us have extensive relationships with certain manufacturers and can offer insight or get better answers others might not be able to get.

I can't find a website for the manufacturer or I would have done already

[XxSullyxX123]

I can't find a website for the manufacturer or I would have done already

Any reason why you arent telling us either whom the manufacturer is or the vendor that sold em to u?


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[RyanJon]

Any reason why you arent telling us either whom the manufacturer is or the vendor that sold em to u?


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No reason really, just don't normally post things like this and wanted to make sure it wasn't me being a wimp. But by the sounds of it most people wouldn't be happy in my situation and wouldn't want to risk running wheels that are modified from the manufacturers approved standard.

If there is something I've missed and it's all above board I'll gladly hold my hands up and admit I'm wrong but I feel I've had my pants pulled down to the tune of $2k

There Renn Motorsport bought off sonic tuning through here

[LINDW4LL]

[email protected]


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[torinalth]

sonic is a well reputed company so i'd be surprised if they done screwed up, but any company is fallible. I don't have dealing with renn myself, but a good chance someone else on here does. but deff email them with his link. something we need to remember is that on our cars the lugs do nothing but hold the wheel to the hub, the actual weight bearing is on the hub ring its self. yes we can talk about shear forces, but i'm not that worried until renn says they are no good.

[RyanJon]

sonic is a well reputed company so i'd be surprised if they done screwed up, but any company is fallible. I don't have dealing with renn myself, but a good chance someone else on here does. but deff email them with his link. something we need to remember is that on our cars the lugs do nothing but hold the wheel to the hub, the actual weight bearing is on the hub ring its self. yes we can talk about shear forces, but i'm not that worried until renn says they are no good.

Renn don't even have a website tho which I find strange. As far as I can tell, and I may be barking up the wrong tree, Renn and sonic are the same people? I think Renn is possibly a name made up by sonic and put on the wheels and spacers that are made by a 3rd party as they are the only firm that seems to sell them?

[mattro]

I'd say there's nothing to worry about, but get a confirmation from Sonic.
By most people's standards on here steelies sound like a terrible idea. You'd be surprised at how little metal you need to hold your wheel to the hub. Yes there's 4mm left after the taper, but from where the taper starts you have what, 15-20mm ? That's the thickness that counts.

[hotleadsingergu]

Right? I was under the impression that many cast wheel companies do it in that manner- change offsets by machining the hub, instead of having to make a separate casting for every available offset.

True, but some wheels come created to different offsets which actually changes the concavity of the wheel. More offset = more concavity, in those cases.

[RyanJon]

I'd say there's nothing to worry about, but get a confirmation from Sonic.
By most people's standards on here steelies sound like a terrible idea. You'd be surprised at how little metal you need to hold your wheel to the hub. Yes there's 4mm left after the taper, but from where the taper starts you have what, 15-20mm ? That's the thickness that counts.

I can see what your saying but I've still been sent something different than what I ordered.

Say next summer I see a different set of wheels that catch my eye, I've then got to try and sell some machined wheels on which most people would run a mile from, where as a standard set would still hold a value.

[Race Shooter]

Renn don't even have a website tho which I find strange. As far as I can tell, and I may be barking up the wrong tree, Renn and sonic are the same people? I think Renn is possibly a name made up by sonic and put on the wheels and spacers that are made by a 3rd party as they are the only firm that seems to sell them?

So if you think that is the case and Sonic is saying they're ok to run, why are you still having an issue? I mean, if you simply do not want them, that is your prerogative, but to say they're unsafe is not really fair, especially if the vendor/manufacturer is the one that did it and says they're within spec.

[RyanJon]

So if you think that is the case and Sonic is saying they're ok to run, why are you still having an issue? I mean, if you simply do not want them, that is your prerogative, but to say they're unsafe is not really fair, especially if the vendor/manufacturer is the one that did it and says they're within spec.

I think there made for sonic by a manufacturer somewhere in the east, and have been modified from the tested and approved standard wheel in the USA. My wheels have et32 stamped in the rear yet they're now et38. Ive been told off my tyre guy that he thinks they're unsafe and he wouldn't want to mount my tyres for me. I've had plenty of sets of wheels in my time and still hold onto a few sets and they've all got a lot more lug depth than these modified wheels have.

[torinalth]

it is possible. I have no insight into renn, so I can't comment on them specifically. I did make a call however and got some general information from another source. Apparently the process of machining to fit is fairly wide as far as opinions. some seem to think its fine to shave a lot, others say a flat out no. In this one instance, they used to machine wheels, but have since changed their process and now cast and forged as needed to specific offsets and then stopped entertaining alternate fitments due to concern about machining. That said they can accept a few mm being trimmed off the back plate, but at least per their standards the 6mm is more than they would be comfortable with and would not have suggested it to a client and certainly would not have done it in house. I didn't think about getting a "minimum back plate thickness" from their opinion though so I am not sure if their "safe allowances" are within the same thickness as the renn or not. With this in mind, I'd be fairly concerned about running them for longevity.

I would call sonic (after talking with renn if possible) and state your concern and that you want assurances that the wheels will be taken care of in the event they crack or break due to the thinner back plate. If they can't do anything beyond a standard warranty I'd let them know your concerns are not being addressed and you would either like a refund or a non machined set of wheels of the appropriate offset. again, contingent on a response from renn or of sonic ignored your concern.