Dashboard rattles, loose driver seat and other issues solved!

[Brother Owl]

Hey all, just had a productive visit to my dealer for some annoying issues and figured I would share how things worked out.

Driver seat loose: Your seat moves, feeling like it's not integrally attached to the car. Especially noticeable and disquiting when you brake hard and the seat moves forward, then rocks back hard at complete stop. Simple but bothersome, this was a tough one because I had multiple techs drive the car with no luck.
Solution: Replacing seat frame (part 8KO-881-157)
I had to show my SA how to replicate the issue by throwing a tantrum in the driver seat. Literally, if you've seen a small child(or small minded adult) do this you know it involves rocking forward and backward violently (smashing your fists against the interior trim is unnecessary). Imagine you're riding your seat like a horse cantering and tell the SA/tech to do the same. If they still don't think there's an issue with the movement/play, tell them to do it in your passenger seat or a new 2016 on the lot - which will most likely be rock solid.

Dashboard rattle: You know that one, in the instrument cluster bezle/MMI bezle that happens on rough surfaces and pitted roads? You know it if you have it... There is a TSB that replaces the instrument panel trim BUT AoA won't do the TSB unless they can replicate the issue
Solution: TSB 2033711/2. After ~2years of bringing this up I found it necessary to find a road within 5min of the dealer that exhibits the problem. DON'T make them go further, they either won't do it and say they did or they will and your baby gets romped on(7+ miles to check for rattles? Really Prestige?!? )

Washer fluid level always low: I tried flushing the system with water and some dish soap, no luck. Thankfully, there is a TSB!
Solution: TSB 3028151/3

On a side note: AoA will replace a burnt out headlight bulb (even in an e-code housing ) and repair a leaky CV boot (from road damage) under warranty. YMMV

Unfortunately I'm still fighting for fixes involving the 2013 steering issues and having to push the clutch hard to start the car, but you can't win 'em all

Be persistent and it will get done - good luck and keep fighting the good fight!

[$nooze]

dont quote me but iirc vag com can change the settings that require the clutch pedal to be engaged for start up.

[Brother Owl]

dont quote me but iirc vag com can change the settings that require the clutch pedal to be engaged for start up.

Edit: haha just realized I quoted you, sorry :P

Haven't heard anything about a VagCom bypass, but others far more technical than I have been discussing how we could bypass the clutch needing to be engaged altogether. Some good reading here:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...h-to-start-car

From pg 21

There are the 2 wires coming from the master cylinder (blue gray and green/gray).

With a diode I connected the output from the F36 switch to the F194 so that only the grounding(ground when pressed) signal would pass. The "ground" from the F36 doesn't provide enough to trigger through the diode(only drops to like 1.5K ohms). I guess I could have just connected them without the diode but I like to keep signals isolated since they both rest at 12v.

I did try and just ground the F194 switch through a diode, that did bypass, but the F36 switch did not provide any interlock as I originally thought it did. The push clutch to start still came up, but car started without pressing down the clutch.

[Tweakophyte]

Hey all, just had a productive visit to my dealer for some annoying issues and figured I would share how things worked out.

Driver seat loose: Your seat moves, feeling like it's not integrally attached to the car. Especially noticeable and disquiting when you brake hard and the seat moves forward, then rocks back hard at complete stop. Simple but bothersome, this was a tough one because I had multiple techs drive the car with no luck.
Solution: Replacing seat frame (part 8KO-881-157)
I had to show my SA how to replicate the issue by throwing a tantrum in the driver seat. Literally, if you've seen a small child(or small minded adult) do this you know it involves rocking forward and backward violently (smashing your fists against the interior trim is unnecessary). Imagine you're riding your seat like a horse cantering and tell the SA/tech to do the same. If they still don't think there's an issue with the movement/play, tell them to do it in your passenger seat or a new 2016 on the lot - which will most likely be rock solid.

This... I have not been able to replicate consistently, and I only feel it on a rare basis.

[Brother Owl]

This... I have not been able to replicate consistently, and I only feel it on a rare basis.

Mine starting get worse recently (last 6 months). I literally had to bring it up a half dozen times before the last service visit and I have to assume my persistence with the SA and the increase in movement both contributed to getting it addressed. Again, have them replicate those actions in your passenger seat and that should be the deal-breaker

[Dr GP]

I've had the seat movement problem since I picked up my 2011 used 2 yrs ago. Any idea of cost and how involved the repair is? I have an extended warranty (Fidelity silver)but I doubt it covers this.

[Brother Owl]

I've had the seat movement problem since I picked up my 2011 used 2 yrs ago. Any idea of cost and how involved the repair is? I have an extended warranty (Fidelity silver)but I doubt it covers this.

Not sure on cost, but if this service report is any indication it sounds complex. Hope this helps: