Rs4 clutch good enough

[armin1993]

Hey there guys need some advice here bought my 2001 Audi s4 few months ago already had a spec stage 3 six puck clutch installed with a fidanza flywheel and k04s also supporting mods as well I hate the way the six puck drives so decided to replace it now not sure if a rs4 clutch would be enough for a k04 car right now it's sitting at 10psi max I will get it tuned to about 20psi 91 gas or 350 to the wheel would an rs4 clutch be okay and Handel that power fine also will be reusing the fidanza flywheel or is there a more better option out there the reason I don't like the six puck clutch whenever I take off in first gear or revers it's like there is this scraping sound until I fully release the clutch it's very annoying also would I be able to use a b7rs4 clutch with the fidanza flywheel

[vavJETTAw36]

Firstly, punctuation goes a long way.

350 whp on a rs4 clutch..., hmmmm.... Think about it. What's power levels on an rs4? Lol. Yes you are fine.

What's going to change that answer is your driving habits. Do you launch all the time? Do you power shift? If your answer is no, rs4 clutch is probably suitable.


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[armin1993]

Sorry it was mor morning when I posted it and I don't really power shift or plan to and I would like to dig with it like from 2500rpm or 3k rpm that shouldn't hurt the clutch that bad would it

[AvantGuard]

Much better punctuation.

[armin1993]

Hahahah come on guys

[gmdiluca]

You still need punctuation.


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[armin1993]

Last time I checked this is not a English class so if you just came here to correct me about my spelling get a life dude you sound like a loser

[vavJETTAw36]

Last time I checked this is not a English class so if you just came here to correct me about my spelling get a life dude you sound like a loser

Has nothing to do with knowing English and punctuation. Plenty of non English natives get on here and communicate without any issues. It is a curtesy to readers to use punctuation. Periods commas and line breaks to group logical sections together make reading much much easier on a forum.

If you cannot do that as a curtesy, we will not be courteous back.


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[DieselElectric]

Periods commas and line breaks to group logical sections together make reading much much easier on a forum.

Periods, commas, and line breaks.

Just saying. Not that I don't agree though, attention to detail is such an easy task to accomplish when writing.

Rs4 clutch is perfectly fine for a basic stage 3 setup. If you are going to push things, then it probably won't last. It's the same disc as the S4, the difference is a stronger pressure plate.

I'm a fan of the rs4 PP and puck disk. It's what I'm running now, and takes a beating.

[DieselElectric]

Also, I just tried to read the entire OP.

What a fucking disaster.

[vavJETTAw36]

Periods, commas, and line breaks.

Just saying. Not that I don't agree though, attention to detail is such an easy task to accomplish when writing.

Rs4 clutch is perfectly fine for a basic stage 3 setup. If you are going to push things, then it probably won't last. It's the same disc as the S4, the difference is a stronger pressure plate.

I'm a fan of the rs4 PP and puck disk. It's what I'm running now, and takes a beating.

If sentences act alone, they need periods not commas. Commas only separate subordinate clauses. Just sayin ;)


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[vavJETTAw36]

Also, I just tried to read the entire OP.

What a fucking disaster.

Bahahaha. Man must have ran out of breath pretty quick.


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[DieselElectric]

"Rule 1. Use commas to separate words and word groups in a simple series of three or more items.

Example: My estate goes to my husband, son, daughter-in-law, and nephew."

Source:. http://m.grammarbook.com/punctuation-rules/commas.aspx

[vavJETTAw36]

Just saying. Not that I don't agree though, attention to detail is such an easy task to accomplish when writing.

Not disagreeing with you. I needed to use commas to separate my list. I am pointing out your improper use of the comma (see above). You cannot call me out and not use it properly :P



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[DieselElectric]

Touché.

OP must be in English class now, working on his response.

[vavJETTAw36]

Touché.

OP must be in English class now working on his response.

Or... He's already canceled his AZ account for screwing with him.


In my opinion, OP, if you think you'll stay at 350whp (~420bhp) go for the rs4 clutch. But know this... you'll always want more power. I told myself the same thing months ago. I was sitting at roughly 380whp and it became not enough for me. I recently switched to e85 and am glad the original owner upgraded to a southbend stage 3 or else I'd be switching clutches. I heard though that the 6 puck clutches are short-lived and need replacing after 20k miles or so.

I'm interested in seeing what others have to say about the clamping force of the rs4 b7 PP combo. Not sure about the fidanza but the TTV does work with it. If you're in there, I'd replace that fidanza as they are prone to premature tone ring failure. I have the fidanza and when my clutch goes, so will that fidanza garbage. Anyone need a pizza pan?


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[armin1993]

Alright everybody, next time I post something, I will try to use better punctuation. Thanks again for the people that actually answered my question. Also if I was to just get a rs4 pp, where can I buy an upgraded disc for it. Been searching for just a clutch disc and haven't had luck. Also is this better lol.

[Jism]

The default RS4 B5 clutch is not what you are proberly looking for, if your going higher power then the standard 380HP that the Rs4 B5 provides.

My car produces up to 440HP with almost 600nm of torque, and i manged to 'glaze' a brand new RS4 B5 clutch within 6 months. I knew this was caused to the extra torque the remap provides, so i was looking for something stronger.

You need a sachs complete set, from clutch to pressure-plate with is able to sustain 600nm of torque or even higher.

And trust me, that pressure plate will be a real addition to your driving. It picks up much better, it's more stronger and it was'nt a bad choice for my B5 RS4. See http://www.zweimassenschwungrad.com/...3089-68-detail

It's german, but i'm sure in the US there should be a sachs seller as well. Back to the flywheel; you can use a double-mass-flywheel, but many suggest going for a single flywheel. I am still running with a 8 months old double flywheel, i dont think that is an issue with going over 600nm of torque.

As for the price; trust me it's worth the money.

[gmdiluca]

Last time I checked this is not a English class so if you just came here to correct me about my spelling get a life dude you sound like a loser

Hey man. Have you tried reading your own two posts? Myself and everyone else that has commented have had trouble reading and understanding. We are just suggesting you add punctuation so that we don't have to read your posts 4-5. It took longer to understand your posts then it would have for you to just google or search the forums for a topic that is well discussed and documented on the Internet. We all like to help but not if its going to cause us that much effort.

And like everyone else has said. It will hold your power but won't last long if you're launching the car often.

[armin1993]

Yea sorry about that. Guess I'll have to look for a stronger clutch. Right now it's got a spec stage 3 clutch, it's a six puck with a fidanza flywheel. Not sure why when I try to take off in first gear, it's like making a scraping sound. Sometimes I can get it to take off perfectly, but it's almost impossible. Just getting tired of it, since it's my daily driver. Also would you know where I can just get a upgraded disc, and use the rs4 pp.

[Wagonholic]

B5 RS4 clutch is stronger/tougher than most people think. Biggest deciding factor is break in.

I have 30k miles on my PJ LUK B5 RS4 clutch. No upgraded disc or anything. 91 + meth, probably around 400whp give or take. Whatever, dyno numbers don't really mean anything, all I can say is that the car rips and is very fast and powerful.

Daily driven, and I've done countless antilag launches on it at 4500 rpm at around 20psi. Never has an issue hooking up, and I do 3.7-3.8 0-60s all day long. Never slipped, drives like oem (because it is an oem clutch basically).

I know two friends that have 50k and 60k+ miles on their LUK RS4 clutch assemblies as well, both K04/F4H, and they're running E85 as well. Way more power than my car is putting down. One is an allroad (much heavier), and both have well over 300 antilag launches on them. Still going strong.

The B5 RS4 clutch assembly was the go-to setup back when people starting putting out increased power from these motors. While many of the newer setups exceed the clutch's capacity, it will be more than sufficient for the overwhelming majority of B5 S4 owners, even at K04 power levels.

If you add an upgraded disc, you can hold even more power. Clutchnet has a great amount of offerings http://clutchnet.com/index.php?optio...432&Itemid=140
Keep in mind that pucked/button clutches are more aggressive and do not last as long. Stay with a full-faced disc if you want longevity.

Many of the "big name" clutch kits are actually based around OEM LUK RS4 components. Notable ones include the old VAST Stage 3 clutch, ASP clutch kit, and the JHM and AMD offerings (the last two are B7 RS4 based). The OEM components are tough.

If you would like, I am removing my B5 RS4 clutch assembly in a week or two. Only reason is that I'm upgrading the car to power levels that will greatly exceed even a tailored/modified RS4 kit. It will be for sale, and would be a good starting point for a budget B5 RS4 based clutch kit. I would definitely recommend changing the throwout bearing at the minimum, and you might as well throw in a nice new clutch disc as well. As for the pressure plate, pressure plates don't really wear out unless you had a defective unit or had no idea how to drive.

[armin1993]

Thanks for the reply man. You are the only one who really gave me the answers to my questions. I really would even run e85 or meth on my k04s, so a rs4 would probably last me for a while. Having said that I would definitely be interested in a upgraded disc. Also I would be interested in your old ra4 clutch setup. Just let me know when you take it out. Also you have one of the best avant s4 I seen on here. Out of curiosity, do you change your own clutch, or do you have a shop do it. Thanks again.

[armin1993]

Also when you say biggest deciding factor is brake in, is there a special method to braking in these clutches. Or is it the normal 500 miles to 1000 miles regular driving to brake it in.

[Wagonholic]

A clutch break in is easy driving for the first couple of miles to help properly wear in the surfaces. Since there are variances in production, you need to make sure each surface properly "mates" to the other (I.e. Flywheel surface, clutch disc surface, and pressure plate surface). It is the same reason why you break in your brake pads after a fresh install as well.

Break in is less about mileage and more about the amount of clutch engagements you do. 10 miles in stop and go city traffic would break in a clutch much better than 300 highway miles with no stopping.

I will admit it was a bit difficult to read the original post, but I wanted to chime in and let people (you) know that the standard LUK RS4 assembly is very strong. It is one of the best daily driving setups, and much too often I see people choose a clutch setup that is more than they need, and they end up hating it every time they aren't driving hard, or it doesn't last very long.


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[Bordom]

The default RS4 B5 clutch is not what you are proberly looking for, if your going higher power then the standard 380HP that the Rs4 B5 provides.

My car produces up to 440HP with almost 600nm of torque, and i manged to 'glaze' a brand new RS4 B5 clutch within 6 months. I knew this was caused to the extra torque the remap provides, so i was looking for something stronger.

You need a sachs complete set, from clutch to pressure-plate with is able to sustain 600nm of torque or even higher.

And trust me, that pressure plate will be a real addition to your driving. It picks up much better, it's more stronger and it was'nt a bad choice for my B5 RS4. See http://www.zweimassenschwungrad.com/...3089-68-detail

It's german, but i'm sure in the US there should be a sachs seller as well. Back to the flywheel; you can use a double-mass-flywheel, but many suggest going for a single flywheel. I am still running with a 8 months old double flywheel, i dont think that is an issue with going over 600nm of torque.

As for the price; trust me it's worth the money.

Lawl wut?

Stage 1 RS4s put out much more power than that and the clutches hold fine for tens of thousands of miles.

#usererror

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[M-Hood]

A clutch break in is easy driving for the first couple of miles to help properly wear in the surfaces. Since there are variances in production, you need to make sure each surface properly "mates" to the other (I.e. Flywheel surface, clutch disc surface, and pressure plate surface). It is the same reason why you break in your brake pads after a fresh install as well.

Break in is less about mileage and more about the amount of clutch engagements you do. 10 miles in stop and go city traffic would break in a clutch much better than 300 highway miles with no stopping.

I will admit it was a bit difficult to read the original post, but I wanted to chime in and let people (you) know that the standard LUK RS4 assembly is very strong. It is one of the best daily driving setups, and much too often I see people choose a clutch setup that is more than they need, and they end up hating it every time they aren't driving hard, or it doesn't last very long.


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I wouldn't say easy driving, more like not putting the car into high load or launching during the break-in period. You can still drive the car hard thru the gears but want to back off if the clutch starts to slip. My very first aftermarket clutch kit I ran on my A4 1.8t I did the break-in period on the fwy on the way to the drag strip and that clutch was kevlar, I just ran it thru a bunch of heat cycles to break it in.

[Jism]

Lawl wut?

Stage 1 RS4s put out much more power than that and the clutches hold fine for tens of thousands of miles.

#usererror

Everything graciously mispelled by Android

I'm sorry but this was my second RS4 B5 OEM clutch with pressureplate, within 1.5 year, they did'nt hold (both) and the kit i have now (sachs enforced clutch up to 600nm + pressure-plate) feels way better. We believe (Mechanic and i) that the car is just too strong for the standard OEM RS4 clutch. It's producing over 440HP with 600nm of torque.

Do a few hard shifting and that OEM clutch will be teared up.

[Bordom]

I wouldn't say easy driving, more like not putting the car into high load or launching during the break-in period. You can still drive the car hard thru the gears but want to back off if the clutch starts to slip. My very first aftermarket clutch kit I ran on my A4 1.8t I did the break-in period on the fwy on the way to the drag strip and that clutch was kevlar, I just ran it thru a bunch of heat cycles to break it in.

I'm sorry but this was my second RS4 B5 OEM clutch with pressureplate, within 1.5 year, they did'nt hold (both) and the kit i have now (sachs enforced clutch up to 600nm + pressure-plate) feels way better. We believe (Mechanic and i) that the car is just too strong for the standard OEM RS4 clutch. It's producing over 440HP with 600nm of torque.

Do a few hard shifting and that OEM clutch will be teared up.

What M-Hood said. Even if that's the case in your instance, you could have thrown in an uprated disk and been set. There are OEM B5 RS4 clutches out there holding 700+nm with no issues for thousands of miles

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[Jism]

I never launch with my car. It's easy from the 1st gear and start throwing some power at 2nd / 3rd gear and so on.

It's just regular straight ahead, nothing special. But i burned both stock OEM RS4 clutches (the first one just being completely devestated, the second one being glazed within a half year). It's remapped by Sportec Switserland, which is known for doing really good tunes. My suspicion is that the car produces more power then the clutch can handle, unless we're talking about a different RS4 B5 clutch then we have in europe. 2 times straight from Audi including flywheel and on one occasion the pressureplate.

I have to tell tho with this pressureplate upgrade the car just picks up much better.