Need help!!! First time posting!

**Mightymike338** · 06-01-2016 10:15 PM

Long story short... Did the brakes all four corners(never had charger hooked up) eventually placed on charger but still no luck. Where I'm at now. Battery charger on battery(front terminals) then placed on battery. Codes thrown everywhere, car today went into safe mode. I can't even turn on the accessories. Car is on jack stands now and really don't wanna tow it to the dealer or a local shop. How do I get the car out of safe mode, is my battery shot.

Any help would be truly appreciated!!!

**mungie** · 06-02-2016 05:12 AM

Do you have a multimeter on hand? Check battery voltage....

**14S4GWM** · 06-02-2016 05:34 AM

^Ummmm do what he said first.

**chaos2984** · 06-02-2016 06:45 AM

what did you do from before the brake job. The battery was fine before wasn't it. Now its all possible that the battery went bad. I had mine drop a cell from the morning to the night. Did you disconnect the battery with the ignition on?

**Mightymike338** · 06-02-2016 07:48 AM

Yes battery was fine prior to job. No battery was not disconnected. I don't have a multimeter but could purchase one

**torinalth** · 06-02-2016 07:57 AM

walk us through the crude steps you did. how did you back out the rear calipers? was the car working before hand? what was the original problem you had that caused you to put the charger on? Also, put the charge on the posts in the engine bay, NOT on the battery. The electronics keep the battery from overcharging if there are problems.... though that's also assuming the electronics are working. Do you have vagcom or carista? can you pull the codes its throwing now?

**mungie** · 06-02-2016 10:17 AM

Originally Posted by Mightymike338

Yes battery was fine prior to job. No battery was not disconnected. I don't have a multimeter but could purchase one

Either that or take it to autozone for a diagnosis

**S4'ed** · 06-02-2016 12:03 PM

Just buy a new battery and solve the problem (a dead battery....)

**Mightymike338** · 06-02-2016 02:53 PM

Originally Posted by S4'ed

Just buy a new battery and solve the problem (a dead battery....)

I've already thought about doing that but will that take the car out of safe mode??

**Mightymike338** · 06-02-2016 03:04 PM

Originally Posted by torinalth

walk us through the crude steps you did. how did you back out the rear calipers? was the car working before hand? what was the original problem you had that caused you to put the charger on? Also, put the charge on the posts in the engine bay, NOT on the battery. The electronics keep the battery from overcharging if there are problems.... though that's also assuming the electronics are working. Do you have vagcom or carista? can you pull the codes its throwing now?

I opened the rear parking parking with a vagcom tool I got from ecs tunning. It's not a full version of the vagcom but it works. The car was working perfectly fine. Backed the rear calipers with a caliper tool. It actually recommends when you do the rear brakes that you use a charger because of the parking park draws current and will drain your battery.(which I didn't do) I pulled some codes but kinda gave up after that . The codes really didn't make sense. I did see one that was saying low amp fault bla bla bla

**infinkc** · 06-02-2016 03:09 PM

I dont recall hearing talks about a "Safe" mode on the b8 before. Usually you just disconnect the battery with both terminals, short them together for a few min and reconnect.

**mungie** · 06-02-2016 03:30 PM

How long were the brakes in the "open" position?
Did you use the vagcom tool to open them before taking off the wheels?
If I were you, I would also check/reconnect the wear sensor cable on the front driver brake just to make sure it's making contact.

The legit vagcom goes through a brake reseat process after you close the rear calipers. Did yours do that?

**richardm0025** · 06-02-2016 03:51 PM

Originally Posted by infinkc

I dont recall hearing talks about a "Safe" mode on the b8 before. Usually you just disconnect the battery with both terminals, short them together for a few min and reconnect.

Maybe he is referring to limp mode? One time I had a failed injector and the car wouldn't start (even when replaced) until I reset codes via vagcom.

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**Dannydyn** · 06-02-2016 04:43 PM

Can't believe you need a goddamn laptop to do a pad swap job these day.... Christ....

**14S4GWM** · 06-02-2016 05:42 PM

Originally Posted by Dannydyn

Can't believe you need a goddamn laptop to do a pad swap job these day.... Christ....

Been like that for a while. You can use a 12 volt battery to make it easier.

**mcoomer** · 06-02-2016 06:08 PM

Yeah, you either need to buy a multimeter and check the battery voltage or pull the battery and have it tested. I don't think you're going to get far without the battery being fully functional/charged. If you have it tested and it's good, put it on a charger before reinstalling it. Charge it fully, install it, and see where you stand. I don't know about the VAGCOM version you're using but you might want to find someone in your area to volunteer to do a full scan and clear on your car. If you're still up a creek after that I suspect the only way out for you is a visit to the dealer.

I'll say this though. When I did my rear brakes I didn't put the car on a charger and had no issues. Had both side done in probably 30 minutes, did the brake travel reset, and had no issues with the car.

Mike

**Mightymike338** · 06-02-2016 10:05 PM

Originally Posted by mungie

How long were the brakes in the "open" position?
Did you use the vagcom tool to open them before taking off the wheels?
If I were you, I would also check/reconnect the wear sensor cable on the front driver brake just to make sure it's making contact.

The legit vagcom goes through a brake reseat process after you close the rear calipers. Did yours do that?

Maybe for a couple hours they were open and yes. The vagcom tool allowed me to open, close and test. After I i was done with the rears is when I started having issues with the car just staying on(that's just meaning turning on accersories if that makes sense)

**Mightymike338** · 06-02-2016 10:06 PM

Originally Posted by richardm0025

Maybe he is referring to limp mode? One time I had a failed injector and the car wouldn't start (even when replaced) until I reset codes via vagcom.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No joke it literally said "safe" blink several times that.

**Mightymike338** · 06-02-2016 10:12 PM

Originally Posted by mcoomer

Yeah, you either need to buy a multimeter and check the battery voltage or pull the battery and have it tested. I don't think you're going to get far without the battery being fully functional/charged. If you have it tested and it's good, put it on a charger before reinstalling it. Charge it fully, install it, and see where you stand. I don't know about the VAGCOM version you're using but you might want to find someone in your area to volunteer to do a full scan and clear on your car. If you're still up a creek after that I suspect the only way out for you is a visit to the dealer. I'll say this though. When I did my rear brakes I didn't put the car on a charger and had no issues. Had both side done in probably 30 minutes, did the brake travel reset, and had no issues with the car.

Mike

I'm gonna try with the multimeter tomm and hope for the best!! I kinda dick around when I did the backs. Took me longer than a half hour but didn't think to throw it on a charger...

**Mightymike338** · 06-04-2016 11:08 AM

Well it's not the battery. Battery actually tested great!!

**infinkc** · 06-04-2016 11:50 AM

Originally Posted by Mightymike338

Well it's not the battery. Battery actually tested great!!

Did you do what i posted above?

**Mightymike338** · 06-04-2016 12:52 PM

Originally Posted by infinkc

Did you do what i posted above?

I did. It will flicker on and off but still will not allow me to turn anything on.

**Gunnark100** · 06-04-2016 01:19 PM

Try, i had something similar, when tried using key which i never used before, they go off sync and dont communicate with start/auth. module.

1. Disconnect battery & connect leads with a jumper wire. Wait 5-10 minutes.
2. Reconnect battery, place key in ignition & initiate reprogramming sequence.
3. Sequence = turn key to "ON" position only, wait 10 seconds. Repeat 5 times.

* I also pressed the unlock buttons, both on the fob while in the ignition & the door button.
Held each for 5-10 seconds while key was "ON", both individually & together during each "on-off" sequence.

If you finally succeed at least comms with vcds, clear faults asap as posted above!

**Mightymike338** · 06-04-2016 04:28 PM

No luck with that either. Put the tires on and hopefully this week getting it towed to the Audi dealer or a local shop.. Thank you all for the suggestions/help.