Thanks, I do want that fault code to eventually go away.
The other day AAA came over to diagnose the old battery (when it was still connected). While troubleshooting, he disconnected the positive first and reconnected the negative first. Its always the other way around. I have no way of determining if this was a potential cause or if it could have been some other isolated reason. Do you think the action of the AAA person could have caused this?
I didn't check for fault codes prior to today, thus its really hard to tell.
I have to rebuild the majority of the front suspension later this week (parts have yet to arrive). I wonder if the current state of the suspension has something to do with this as clearly, the car is in desperate need of repair on the front end. It's been rough handling in recent days (and last several months). Had an usual warm up in recent weeks here in NY.
Edit: at one instance, the low voltage fault code appeared on the scanner (and this is with the New Autocraft Battery); upon erasing the code, it only reappears if I disconnect the negative terminal and reconnect it again.
Originally Posted by
4rings2turbos
I'd recommend trying to survive the heat until you pass your inspection if the code comes up with the AC on only.
If you want to REALLY reset everything then disconnect the terminals from the battery entirely and hold them together to let all the power drain from the ECU. Probably already did so if you had the battery disconnected for a while though. That clears the ECUs memory for DTCs. Of course you'll then have to drive whatever distance it is for the ECU to set readiness.
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