DIY: Motor work, Timing tensioner or anything with the motor and front end

[Charles.waite]

Some people are afraid of belts evidently.

[mtroxel]

Some people are afraid of belts evidently.

<------------afraid of balance shafts.

[Theiceman]

I couldn't agree more. Did mine a month ago. Cripes the DIYs I read all talked about holding the crank so you can remove that bolt on the back of the balance shaft....and about how the bolt breaks off half the time. That belt is a rubber band with teeth. That's it. Just pull the damn thing off and avoid the drama.

yeah i read about it all after i changed the pump . im like WTF ? slide it off , slide it on ! whats the big deal ?

[Kolbenringe]

Some people are afraid of belts evidently.

I don't know, some state there isn't enough clearance to get the belt out. I looked into mine some months ago and it looks very, very, very close.

[mtroxel]

I don't know, some state there isn't enough clearance to get the belt out. I looked into mine some months ago and it looks very, very, very close.

I don't know how this is an issue. If you have any problems at all, the bolts are off the pump, just tip the front away from the block and the belt will literally fall off.

[Kolbenringe]

I don't know how this is an issue. If you have any problems at all, the bolts are off the pump, just tip the front away from the block and the belt will literally fall off.

That's what I think, but I don't know what the story is. At 42:00 in this video, they rebuilt the engine, reused the old belt, but then made sort of a big deal about it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdApfN7QvH8

No idea why it's such a big deal.

[Theiceman]

I don't know how this is an issue. If you have any problems at all, the bolts are off the pump, just tip the front away from the block and the belt will literally fall off.

like most things in life there is a trick to it .. when putting the pump back in you have to have your little plastic" bellows ready with some sil glide on the orings. hook the back pulley under the belt, and as you put the front in, position the bellows between the pump and the oil cooler, as you put the front in place the bellows will slip right into place , then bolt her down.

done

[ericA6]

like most things in life there is a trick to it .. when putting the pump back in you have to have your little plastic" bellows ready with some sil glide on the orings. hook the back pulley under the belt, and as you put the front in, position the bellows between the pump and the oil cooler, as you put the front in place the bellows will slip right into place , then bolt her down.

done

This is exactly what I did. It can be done fairly easy with care. I did it the first time! I did have the car in service position so it might have given me a little advantage, but still doable with everything in place. I did not remove the intake manifold either. Plenty of clearance. I put the aluminum housing version on and cut the $h1t out of my hand and bleed all over the block and garage floor. The aluminum cylinders where the hoses attached were sharp. I guess me and my car are blood bonded now! IMG_0998.JPG

This picture is after I tried to clean most of it up as I was trying to see how much blood was left in the block.


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[mtroxel]

^^^I did the aluminium one too.^^^ I didn't cut my hand, but I did leave the CT sensor plug under the gasket before I torqued it down. I don't recommend that either. I was afraid I killed that neoprene gasket...but apparently it bounced right back. No leaks.

[Theiceman]

Looks like about a 14 hemoglobin, you are generally healthy lol

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[khj677turbo]

Need some help on this. Currently setting the lower timing chain on the crank and two balance shafts. I know the left (passenger side) balance shaft can rotate, but can the right (drivers side) rotate freely as well? The initial post suggests no, but another post says yes.

And perhaps I did not rotate the crank enough before dissasembly, but I am at TDC, but did not check the right balance shaft to see if the two sprockets are aligned before removing the chain. I've had to spin this a few times in order to drop the new chain on the sprockets and have everything line up per referenced pictures.

[Kolbenringe]

yes, both freely rotate.

[khj677turbo]

yes, both freely rotate.

I should have clarified, I can rotate them as much as I want in order to set the chain/marks in the correct place, as long as the crank does not move, correct?

[ericA6]

Yes, just make sure the drivers side is lined up properly with the sprocket that also rotates with it. IMG_1030.jpg


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[khj677turbo]

Yes, just make sure the drivers side is lined up properly with the sprocket that also rotates with it. IMG_1030.jpg


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Awesome. That part i mirrored the Edge MOtorsports video. Looking good so far. But I have to admit fear was taking over.

[Sharper_Image]

Wassup guys. About 2 years ago i did the timing tensioner with new chains, guids ect. After everything was put back the car fired up no problem everything is running smooth but im getting a CEL for p0088 (fuel rail pressure too high). no other codes besides that so far i replace fuel rail sensors, new HPFP, new injectors with no luck. I read somewhere that if the chain sprocket is misaligned it will trigger that code. I took the top timing cover off rotate crank to TDC. Measured intake and exhaust cam timing marks and its within spec. Kinda at a lost right now i brought it to a shop and they said the HPFP might be defective but they didn't tell me how they diagnosed that.

[Theiceman]

Wassup guys. About 2 years ago i did the timing tensioner with new chains, guids ect. After everything was put back the car fired up no problem everything is running smooth but im getting a CEL for p0088 (fuel rail pressure too high). no other codes besides that so far i replace fuel rail sensors, new HPFP, new injectors with no luck. I read somewhere that if the chain sprocket is misaligned it will trigger that code. I took the top timing cover off rotate crank to TDC. Measured intake and exhaust cam timing marks and its within spec. Kinda at a lost right now i brought it to a shop and they said the HPFP might be defective but they didn't tell me how they diagnosed that.

Okay that is confusing. You did timing belt 2 years ago. So you have had this code for two years now. Or were you trouble free for 2 years and the code just popped up now ?

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[Sharper_Image]

Okay that is confusing. You did timing belt 2 years ago. So you have had this code for two years now. Or were you trouble free for 2 years and the code just popped up now ?

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B8 a4 2.0 tfsi timing chain. Did the job 2 years ago and as soon as everything was put back together i fired it up and scanned with vagcom this was the only code that popped up. After that i kinda just had the car parked and been driving my other car around now its inspection time and i need this code gone so i can get a sticker.

[Theiceman]

B8 a4 2.0 tfsi timing chain. Did the job 2 years ago and as soon as everything was put back together i fired it up and scanned with vagcom this was the only code that popped up. After that i kinda just had the car parked and been driving my other car around now its inspection time and i need this code gone so i can get a sticker.

Sorry meant chain

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[Theiceman]

Sorry meant chain

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I'm really surprised they wont give youba sticker as that is not an emissions code

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[Sharper_Image]

Yea, where I'm located we can't pass state inspection with a CEL, which is a bummer.

[Sharper_Image]

Anybody have any input on the p0088 code?

[Kolbenringe]

I would recheck the cam to cam relationship. The pump is somewhat timed, so if its timing is off, ie: the cam is off, it will generate the pressure pulses out of phase and send the 0088 code out. This should be your starting point since this was the work done that set the code off.

[NYDCB]

Best thread ever made!

[Sharper_Image]

I would recheck the cam to cam relationship. The pump is somewhat timed, so if its timing is off, ie: the cam is off, it will generate the pressure pulses out of phase and send the 0088 code out. This should be your starting point since this was the work done that set the code off.

Cool, im gonna recheck the timing and report back

[Theiceman]

Cool, im gonna recheck the timing and report back

im not sure how your cams could be out yet the only code you get is a p088. Im not saying its impossible but not sure how that could happen. its a chain so you can only be off by links , and if you were off a link i would think you have other issues.
if you are getting fuel pressure too high i am wondering if somehow you have a kinked return line to the tank. .

if you have a link to the article talking about this i would be interested in reading it.

[Kolbenringe]

There are such diagnoses online available for these engines and the p0088 from an oit of phase cam.

[Sharper_Image]

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...e-too-high-cel

[Theiceman]

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...e-too-high-cel

Interesting thread. Thanks for posting that. So you checked and your timing was good ?

Although its impossible to be off "a hair" as it's a chain. I found it interesting you can be off a link and have no other symptoms.

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[Sharper_Image]

No not yet but im going to today.

[Theiceman]

No not yet but im going to today.

I'm really interested in this one. Will you have to put the whole car in service position or just going to try and remove the upper cover ?
I have to do this for a buddy also and I did mine with the engine out so was really easy. I would be interested in your process .

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[Sharper_Image]

paint image1 by johnny mam, on Flickr

measure distance from cam bridge to intake cam marking.
IMG_0818_J1 by johnny mam, on Flickr

TDC.
IMG_0820_J1 by johnny mam, on Flickr
IMG_0827_J1 by johnny mam, on Flickr

Measured distance from exhaust cam marking to intake cam markings (center to center)
IMG_0824_J1 by johnny mam, on Flickr
IMG_0822_J1 by johnny mam, on Flickr
IMG_0825_J1 by johnny mam, on Flickr

If i do inner line on marking on exhaust cam with distance of 125.5mm this is where im measured at on intake cam.
IMG_0829_J1 by johnny mam, on Flickr
IMG_0830_J1 by johnny mam, on Flickr

my timing looks to be dead on unless im missing something?

[Sharper_Image]

I'm really interested in this one. Will you have to put the whole car in service position or just going to try and remove the upper cover ?
I have to do this for a buddy also and I did mine with the engine out so was really easy. I would be interested in your process .

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I removed the front bumper and headlights, went to buy 2 extra long bolts for the crash bar. Replace the top bolt of crash bar with the extra long bolt (both sides) removed bottom crash bar bolts, disconnect intercooler, electrical harness, and the tiny coolant line from radiator to overflow tank. After all that the front assembly should slide forward to give you enough space to work on.

[Theiceman]

I removed the front bumper and headlights, went to buy 2 extra long bolts for the crash bar. Replace the top bolt of crash bar with the extra long bolt (both sides) removed bottom crash bar bolts, disconnect intercooler, electrical harness, and the tiny coolant line from radiator to overflow tank. After all that the front assembly should slide forward to give you enough space to work on.

yeah thats what i was wondering , so basically you put it in service position. I think when i did my measuring i did it from the inside of the marks but i just dont remember . i wish i had taken quality pics of that part like you did . i just checked it and moved on dammit .

That looks bang on however and moving intake cam one tooth one way or the other will put you way out . I dont think you have observers bias as that looks pretty damn close.

[Theiceman]

Btw just for giggles can you tell what one tooth would be in mm ?

[Spawne32]

my timing looks to be dead on unless im missing something?

The problem with these cars is the crank sprocket is not keyed to the crank. You can have all the measurements lined up on the gears and the harmonic balancer when doing this check, but if for some reason a lack of tension on the sprocket against the face of the crank in the timing cover let it slip slightly, you will be off on timing without even realizing it. The cam gears will stay in the same position, but the crank will have slipped out of time.

[Charles.waite]

It’s not *obviously* keyed. It’s keyed with a flat, but it’s not obvious like more traditional woodruff keys. All to save a couple dozen millimeters in package length.

[Theiceman]

yes it is keyed obviously , but as Charles mentioned not like traditional keyways. that is a ton of work even to check though. lower pan and all chains have to come off. But i do think you are running out of ideas fast.

[Sharper_Image]

Btw just for giggles can you tell what one tooth would be in mm ?

Did you mean the distance between each cam tooth? If so i can take measurements tomorrow morning.

[Sharper_Image]

yes it is keyed obviously , but as Charles mentioned not like traditional keyways. that is a ton of work even to check though. lower pan and all chains have to come off. But i do think you are running out of ideas fast.

Yea i was really hoping my timing was dead on, i really don't wanna take everything apart just to che6ck and i think all the hardware are TTY but looks like i have no choice at this point, just gonna have to man up!