DIY: Motor work, Timing tensioner or anything with the motor and front end

**Snakeman** · 07-04-2019 09:40 AM

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**ericA6** · 07-04-2019 10:29 AM

I found a set of Klutch wrenches at northern tool that we’re thinner. (15mm fit)
IMG_1022.jpg
Not by much, but it made the difference! Thank god!

Also, balancer chain is a 27mm for anyone else referencing this thread. Now hopefully I can button this all up!

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**ericA6** · 07-04-2019 11:06 AM

Great... upper guid rail for balancing chain does not match what I received from ECS. Of course they’re closed on 4th of July. That stops everything. Oh well... happy 4th everyone!

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IMG_1024.jpg

Same problem EdgeMotors has on their video. I guess this motor was replaced at some point before I purchased the car. I don’t know how to tell.

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**Charles.waite** · 07-04-2019 11:23 AM

How different is it? Post some pics.

**Theiceman** · 07-04-2019 01:51 PM

Originally Posted by ericA6

Right... problem is both sets are too thick to fit. I’m on my way to Northern Tool to see if I can find a thin set. Also taking the balance chain tensioner with me to fit a socket on it. Biggest size I currently have is a 24mm and it’s too small. Wish me luck! Thank you gentlemen!

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i think thats a 27mm

oops sorry i didnt see your update .. yes that upper balance shaft guide throws a lot of people off, i somehow ordered the right one .. but i did order the wrong guide between the two camshafts for the timing chain, its always something.
work doesnt have to stop , you have a lot of cleaning and prep work to do before the install of new parts :)

**ericA6** · 07-04-2019 03:09 PM

Originally Posted by Theiceman

work doesnt have to stop , you have a lot of cleaning and prep work to do before the install of new parts :)

I’ve spent more time cleaning than actually wrenching! My oil leaks were horrendous! I was leaking from valve cover seal, vacuum pump, upper and lower timing chain covers. So much grime and oil built up I went through 4 cans of cleaner and degreaser.

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**Theiceman** · 07-04-2019 03:25 PM

Mich like lld porsches, when they stop.leaking oil they are empty

Are you replacing the lower timing cover ?

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**ericA6** · 07-04-2019 03:39 PM

Originally Posted by Theiceman

Mich like lld porsches, when they stop.leaking oil they are empty

Are you replacing the lower timing cover ?

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Yes. I’ve already completed water pump replacement, valve cover seal, vacuum pump gasket and HPFP o-ring.

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**Theiceman** · 07-04-2019 04:05 PM

Sounds like you are well on your way, what did you use for sealant on your vc ?

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**ericA6** · 07-04-2019 04:14 PM

Originally Posted by Theiceman

Sounds like you are well on your way, what did you use for sealant on your vc ?

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I ordered this sealant for the valve cover and lower timing chain cover.

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**Theiceman** · 07-05-2019 05:19 AM

That sealant may not work for the valve cover. Since you already did that job you can let us know how it goes. .valve cover is two machined surfaces and uses more of a flange sealant.
The other thing to keep.in mind is the lower oil pan is an aerobic seala t. Exposed to air it will seal.up.and harden to the desired consistency.
The valve cover sealant is anaerobic. Which means it will harden up.with the lack of oxygen. Like the .microscopic sealed area between the two surfaces. This is important so any overflow Inside the engine will not harden up, break off and block an oil gallery. It will simply remain in liquid form and any excess is washed away by the oil.

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**ericA6** · 07-05-2019 07:04 AM

Originally Posted by Theiceman

That sealant may not work for the valve cover. Since you already did that job you can let us know how it goes. .valve cover is two machined surfaces and uses more of a flange sealant

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Damn!... ECS sales person told me it would work. Well at least it’s not that hard to do again later if it starts to leak. I’ll keep a close eye on it. At least my engine is clean again and i should be able to spot a new leak. Thanks for the heads up!

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**ericA6** · 07-05-2019 10:57 AM

Originally Posted by Theiceman

The other thing to keep.in mind is the lower oil pan is an aerobic seala t. Exposed to air it will seal.up.and harden to the desired consistency.
The valve cover sealant is anaerobic. Which means it will harden up.with the lack of oxygen. Like the .microscopic sealed area between the two surfaces. This is important so any overflow Inside the engine will not harden up, break off and block an oil gallery. It will simply remain in liquid form and any excess is washed away by the oil.

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So after reading your description I believe I used an aerobic sealant in the VC. I hope I don’t have any break off in the engine and cause any problems down the road. I guess only time will tell. Thanks for the info, great explanation!

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**Snakeman** · 07-05-2019 01:57 PM

Did anyone used this coolant
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...%26+antifreeze

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**Snakeman** · 07-05-2019 03:45 PM

Bought this one IMG_1025.jpg

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**Charles.waite** · 07-05-2019 04:23 PM

I’ve always used Pentrofrost if I don’t have OEM stuff.

**mtroxel** · 07-05-2019 04:31 PM

Originally Posted by Snakeman

Bought this one IMG_1025.jpg

That's what I use.

**Theiceman** · 07-05-2019 06:36 PM

I have used pentafrost before. But I get vw g13 if I can.

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**Snakeman** · 07-06-2019 05:18 PM

My baby is ALIVE !!!, thank You Allowencer and everyone for help, i have a6 c7 few things different but managed with your help, found all screwdrivers (+2

) missing only one extension, engine works fine so for sure I didn’t loose it inside

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**Snakeman** · 07-06-2019 05:22 PM

Originally Posted by Theiceman

I have used pentafrost before. But I get vw g13 if I can.

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I saw something somewhere that Audi using Pentosin and selling it under vw brand

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**Snakeman** · 07-06-2019 05:23 PM

Reserve

**Snakeman** · 07-06-2019 05:24 PM

Vw doesn’t manufacture fluids

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**Theiceman** · 07-06-2019 09:54 PM

Originally Posted by Snakeman

I saw something somewhere that Audi using Pentosin and selling it under vw brand

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Likely.

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**Theiceman** · 07-07-2019 05:54 AM

Originally Posted by Snakeman

Vw doesn’t manufacture fluids

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Likely true but by that logic Audi doesnt manufacture anything. They outsource every part to hella,Bosh,lemfoerder, heintz, kolbelnschmidt etc and Simply assemble all the bits.

Theoretically you could build an entire Audi of aftermarket parts made by these manufacturers, but would you ??

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**mtroxel** · 07-07-2019 05:57 AM

I would bet the house that on Tuesdays, some factory puts G 13 in Pentosin bottles, and on Wednesday the same fluid goes into Audi bottles. Same with some other factory that puts ATF in either ZF bottles or Audi bottles.

**ericA6** · 07-08-2019 03:39 PM

Originally Posted by Theiceman

Yeah do it all after, they spin easy
Lining them up can be a bit tricky so if you are not sure ask, the drivers side balance shift is on a second sprocket so getting that set up right is crucial. It is not difficult but it is easy to make a mistake

Trying to line balancing chain up and have a question, if I keep the drivers side sprocket aligned
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The chain in the crank sprocket is off by one link
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If I rotate the two upper sprockets I can line everything up correctly
IMG_1029.jpg
Is it ok to rotate the two upper sprockets by one link to align on the crank sprocket correctly?

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**mtroxel** · 07-08-2019 05:59 PM

A few things:

It looks like you're turning the intake side balance shaft a bit to make it line up. Not good.
At this point, you should install the upper chain guide to fix the slack in the chain between the two shafts.
I am not sure you're at TDC. Look at this pic. The timing mark on his crank sprocket is about one tooth counter-clockwise to yours. If I'm right, that would make you line up. You're is pointed at that threaded hole. This one is turned one tooth.

**ericA6** · 07-08-2019 06:46 PM

I believe you may be right. Looking back at the pictures I took before I took off the tensioners and chains it appears it has advanced by a half a tooth or a whole tooth. I don’t understand how as I haven’t rotated anything. Hmmmmmm....

That would mean my cam sprockets and balancing sprockets all need to advance with it correct?

Also... looking at the picture you posted, the balancing sprocket that’s on the drivers side has the paint line pointed at about 5 o’clock, not 6 o’clock like it is when it’s completely lined up.

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**mtroxel** · 07-08-2019 06:51 PM

Originally Posted by ericA6

I believe you may be right. Looking back at the pictures I took before I took off the tensioners and chains it appears it has advanced by a half a tooth or a whole tooth. I don’t understand how as I haven’t rotated anything. Hmmmmmm....

That would mean my cam sprockets and balancing sprockets all need to advance with it correct?

Also... looking at the picture you posted, the balancing sprocket that’s on the drivers side has the paint line pointed at about 5 o’clock, not 6 o’clock like it is when it’s completely lined up.

Hmmmm...do you have the cam holding tools bolted against the cam sprockets? That would be nice. But, you'd be really foolish to turn the crank a full turn. A piston would come up and smack some valves. But, if the cams are in their TDC position, you can turn the crank one tooth without bending a valve. Are you sure the cams are in the TCD position?

**Theiceman** · 07-08-2019 06:52 PM

Originally Posted by ericA6

I believe you may be right. Looking back at the pictures I took before I took off the tensioners and chains it appears it has advanced by a half a tooth or a whole tooth. I don’t understand how as I haven’t rotated anything. Hmmmmmm....

That would mean my cam sprockets and balancing sprockets all need to advance with it correct?

Also... looking at the picture you posted, the balancing sprocket that’s on the drivers side has the paint line pointed at about 5 o’clock, not 6 o’clock like it is when it’s completely lined up.

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Dont worry. Put your guides in and align it like your last pic with all the timi g Mark's lined up .
Then you line up the timing chain on the right spots and you are good to go

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**ericA6** · 07-08-2019 06:59 PM

Here’s my cams
IMG_1033.jpg
Here’s with two guides in with the drivers side balancing sprocket lined up, my crank is off by one tooth
IMG_1031.jpg
And here’s with the upper balancing sprockets rotates one tooth to align the crank sprocket
IMG_1032.jpg

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**ericA6** · 07-08-2019 07:00 PM

Originally Posted by Theiceman

Dont worry. Put your guides in and align it like your last pic with all the timi g Mark's lined up .
Then you line up the timing chain on the right spots and you are good to go

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This is what I figured... just needed to make sure. Thank you Iceman!

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**Theiceman** · 07-08-2019 07:43 PM

Originally Posted by ericA6

This is what I figured... just needed to make sure. Thank you Iceman!

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Yup you are good to go. You can move forward with your timing chain

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**ericA6** · 07-10-2019 06:02 PM

I’m checking over everything and found this (circles in yellow). What am I missing?IMG_1036.jpg

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**mtroxel** · 07-11-2019 06:24 AM

Can't tell for sure, but I think that's the nipple-to-nowhere. Nothing is attached to it on our intake mani, and if you poke something in there you'll see that it doesn't really open into the mani.

**ericA6** · 07-13-2019 04:00 PM

Just finished and started her up. She ran smooth then a little rough, I noticed I forgot to plug the cam adjuster magnet in! Plugged it in started her up and she runs smooooooooooth!

My cam adaptation measurement before the timing chain replacement was -8.55! Now.........
IMG_1040.JPG

Thank you all for this forum! Cheers!

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**Theiceman** · 07-13-2019 08:49 PM

Great work Now trade it in brfore something else breaks lol

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**mtroxel** · 07-14-2019 04:38 AM

Nicely done Eric. Can't tell you how often I've started one up with a plug hanging. I pretty much expect it.

**ericA6** · 07-14-2019 08:50 AM

Originally Posted by Theiceman

Great work Now trade it in brfore something else breaks lol

That’s where the search bar in this forum comes in handy.

🤫

Originally Posted by mtroxel

Nicely done Eric. Can't tell you how often I've started one up with a plug hanging. I pretty much expect it.

Yeah.... it happens.

My $.02 would be to make sure you have a “thin” set of wrenches, and a 27mm socket.

If anyone tries tackling the water pump, I would not try to remove the reverse threaded bolt that holds the intermediate shaft pulley on, you can unbolt the water pump and slide it off/on.

Clean, clean, clean, clean! My motor was absolutely covered. If you develop new leaks of any kind, it’s much easier to spot and track them. I added hours of cleaning time, but I believe it is necessary.

In the end it wasn’t that hard of a job, just very tedious. Take your time and have fun!

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**mtroxel** · 07-14-2019 09:26 AM

Originally Posted by ericA6

If anyone tries tackling the water pump, I would not try to remove the reverse threaded bolt that holds the intermediate shaft pulley on, you can unbolt the water pump and slide it off/on.

I couldn't agree more. Did mine a month ago. Cripes the DIYs I read all talked about holding the crank so you can remove that bolt on the back of the balance shaft....and about how the bolt breaks off half the time. That belt is a rubber band with teeth. That's it. Just pull the damn thing off and avoid the drama.