DIY: Motor work, Timing tensioner or anything with the motor and front end

**Charles.waite** · 06-16-2019 09:37 AM

I also did all the chains and guides. Given how much work it was to access the timing chains in the first place, I felt that not replacing everything and saving maybe $300 was going to be a false economy down the line since this car is going to be ours for at least 3-4 more years and after that it’s likely going to my parents so I don’t want to deal with this again.

I used a metal spackle knife to get the cover off and didn’t damage it at all, however I had purchased a brand new cover “just in case” and after seeing the revised oil guides on the new cover I installed the new one. There was much better oil drip routing than the original, the crank sprocket will get much much better oiling with the new cover. I tossed the old one in the trash, though realistically I could have cleaned it up and resold it on eBay to recoup some costs. Doing my oil change the other day, I did see a bit of oil seepage from the bottom sealing edge I believe so it’s likely I might have to go back in and reseal the pan. So a tip I would add is drain the oil before you reseal the cover, with the oil level that close to the lip it’s hard to get a clean surface for the rtv so seal to fully.

**ericA6** · 06-18-2019 06:12 PM

So I decided to not get the FCP Euro kit. I went with the ECS Ultimate Timing Kit. I also had to purchase Lower Timing Chain Cover and the Crank Pully Bolt as the ECS kit did not include them. I should receive all parts early next week. Now I have to find the time to get it all changed out.

**Kolbenringe** · 06-18-2019 11:20 PM

You also should replace the upper timing cover seal. If it hasn't been on long, then maybe you can get away without replacing, but after a while, they are cooked on. You also need a good sealant, like Reinzosil or something from Dirko. It looks like the kit doesn't include that. Whatever sealant you use, don't use too much, make sure the bead is pretty thin, pay close attention to the bend and putting a bead across it. You also need to put on two smears of sealant at the upper cover where the head meets the cam cover.

I stress again that the bead on the lower cover should not be thick.

**ericA6** · 06-19-2019 05:53 AM

I did order the upper timing chain cover as well along with the vacuum pump seal and another high pressure fuel pump o-ring. I ordered this sealant for the valve cover and lower timing chain cover. Thanks for the expert tips! All this is great information to have before going into this! Everyone will definitely continue to benefit from this thread!

**Snakeman** · 06-21-2019 07:18 PM

Help! By mistake I rotated oil pump after removing chain from crank sprocket, is position of oil pump important???

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**Charles.waite** · 06-21-2019 07:41 PM

Nope. The oil pump can be linked up at any timing. You’re just fine.

**Snakeman** · 06-21-2019 07:46 PM

Thanks

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**Snakeman** · 06-22-2019 05:48 AM

After many rotations i was able to get to this point, looks like chain is off by one on all of the sprockets but locations of gears looks good, I could try to do one more cycle and see if the marked links will match with gears, can anyone please confirm timing, BIG THANKS IMG_0905.jpg IMG_0906.jpg IMG_0907.JPG IMG_0908.jpg

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**mtroxel** · 06-22-2019 06:28 AM

Snakeman, I can't tell about your timing from those pics. Are you about to close this up? Cause all I see is a tensioner that's extended quite a way, and a bunch of old guides and, I assume, the original chain that's obviously stretched. I wouldn't think you'd be asking about timing till you put new parts in.

I see why you think it's off a tooth, I think. And I'm sure that has to do with the stretched chain...and even the worn guides.

**Snakeman** · 06-22-2019 06:31 AM

Yes I’m about to put new parts,

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**Snakeman** · 06-22-2019 07:25 AM

Hope those are better, just to verify timing before replacement
IMG_0914.JPG IMG_0912.jpg

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**Charles.waite** · 06-22-2019 08:14 AM

You timing is good. If it had skipped some teeth you’d know it. If it didn’t don’t doubt the factory timing.

**Snakeman** · 06-22-2019 08:17 AM

Thanks, and one more question, where can i buy oil screen (mesh) please don’t tell that i have to buy whole cam bridge

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**Charles.waite** · 06-22-2019 08:50 AM

Hah. Well then I won’t tell you you have to buy the whole thing...

You can’t buy replacement mesh pieces. Many people just pop the mesh out and reinstall the cam bridge without it.

**Theiceman** · 06-22-2019 08:54 AM

think about it, everything is "off" by one coloured link the same way , the car is in perfect time. Imagine if you could move the entire chain over one link without moving any of the sprockets. its only the coloured links that are throwing you off. Remember they are only used to install the cam timing in the right location , after that it means nothing.
I would say 80 % of us rip out the screen , remove the pieces and reinstall the bracket. The other 20% buy a new bracket. the important thing Is finding the piece that broke off, it is usually resting against the channel into the head when you remove the bracket.

**Snakeman** · 06-22-2019 08:58 AM

I found whole broken piece

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**Theiceman** · 06-22-2019 08:59 AM

nice …. how lucky do you feel about Chinese parts in your German car ????

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Camshaft-Br...gAAOSwL1Rchg78

**Snakeman** · 06-22-2019 09:03 AM

Not so good

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**Snakeman** · 06-22-2019 09:07 AM

Found this http://www.engineprofessional.com/TB/TB091917-1.pdf

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**Charles.waite** · 06-22-2019 09:08 AM

Originally Posted by Theiceman

nice …. how lucky do you feel about Chinese parts in your German car ????

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Camshaft-Br...gAAOSwL1Rchg78

Yea I’d prefer to run nothing over that part.

Edit: actually, on second thought there’s probably no larger of a risk of these ones blowing out tha n the OEM ones. Considering mine was popped out at 65k I can’t imagine these are any worse quality....

**Theiceman** · 06-22-2019 09:16 AM

Originally Posted by Charles.waite

Yea I’d prefer to run nothing over that part.

me too, but I posted the mesh in the main forum as many people seem to look for it.

**ericA6** · 06-26-2019 06:58 PM

I finally received all my parts from ECS. A few thoughts:
1. since I’m doing my timing chain, water pump and valve cover, is there an optimal order to do these jobs? I’m thinking water pump first, valve cover second, timing chain last.
2. I’ve read multiple posts that say no need to lock the cams when taking off the valve cover, is this true? I was under the assumption they had to be locked with the special tools.
3. Should I also replace the fuel pump cam follower since I’ll have the HPFP off?
4. I can’t seem to find the part number for the o-ring/gasket that you find in the camshaft bracket that seals the camshaft adjuster magnet.
5. Is it necessary to change the o-ring for the dipstick tube?

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**02A63.0Q** · 06-26-2019 07:06 PM

I did not lock the cams with the valve cover off. If the chain is still on it won't go anywhere. I did the hpfp cam follower while I had that stuff off but evidently didn't need to. The kind with the bearing is good, the non bearing isn't, but I didn't want to miss the opportunity to do it while that was all off.

**ericA6** · 06-27-2019 07:28 PM

Started taking everything off the front tonight. Actually pretty easy so far, except I broke the driver side lower clip that the condenser clips into. Also found oil coming out of the drivers side intercooler pipe.
IMG_0986.JPG

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**mtroxel** · 06-27-2019 08:17 PM

Originally Posted by ericA6

Started taking everything off the front tonight. Actually pretty easy so far, except I broke the driver side lower clip that the condenser clips into.

OMG you are so screwed!!! Just kidding.

Originally Posted by ericA6

Also found oil coming out of the drivers side intercooler pipe.

There's always some oil there. I try to drain it every time I change the oil.

**ericA6** · 06-27-2019 08:33 PM

[QUOTE=mtroxel;13733844]OMG you are so screwed!!! Just kidding.

I felt like a complete idiot because it got caught on my shorts! DOH!

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**Kolbenringe** · 06-27-2019 10:50 PM

Audis have had oily intercoolers since forever. Wet PCV systems. If you ever want to get it out without disassembly, you'd have to spray intake cleaners in somewhere after the MAF and drive around and spray again. That will thin out the sludge and the gel-like consistency of a large portion of deposits. There were some who used to pour gasoline innthe IC and swish it around back innthe day.

**Theiceman** · 06-28-2019 07:10 AM

I did an entire build and never used cam locks once

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**ericA6** · 06-28-2019 07:00 PM

I feel like an idiot right now...... I can’t seem to get the fan connector off! I slide the red tab back but then it won’t come off. I’ve pushed and pulled and wiggled. IMG_0989.JPG

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****EDIT****
Just got it off. Turns out there was so much dirt in between the connectors it was basically fused together. I took a can of air and blew in around the connector and then took a tiny flathead and worked my way around it. When it finally came off dirt was falling out of the connector. Damn......

**Snakeman** · 07-02-2019 05:40 PM

Is this sensor position ok, i have everything else perfect IMG_0954.jpg

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**Snakeman** · 07-02-2019 05:42 PM

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**Snakeman** · 07-02-2019 05:44 PM

IMG_0957.jpg IMG_0956.jpg

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**Snakeman** · 07-02-2019 05:46 PM

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**ericA6** · 07-03-2019 08:16 PM

I’m trying to set my timing before I disassemble and replace everything. I’ve rotated and lined up TDC 3 times, but the balancer chain will not line up. Do I need to line up the balancer chain before I replace parts? Or can I leave it as is and line up the chain links on the balancer chain when I put it all back together? If I do it after then I’m assuming I have to rotate the two upper balancing sprockets by hand to get them to line up. IMG_1019.JPG IMG_1021.jpg

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**Theiceman** · 07-03-2019 08:29 PM

Yeah do it all after, they spin easy
Lining them up can be a bit tricky so if you are not sure ask, the drivers side balance shift is on a second sprocket so getting that set up right is crucial. It is not difficult but it is easy to make a mistake

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**ericA6** · 07-04-2019 09:18 AM

I have a set of Craftsman 14-17 open end wrenches and went out and bought a set of Husky 14-17 wrenches... none of which fit the exhaust cam. I am attempting to rotate it slightly to lock it up. I can’t seem to find a tool that fits the notch behind the sprocket. Anyone have any tips?

Also... what size is the balance chain tensioner?

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**mtroxel** · 07-04-2019 09:34 AM

Damn it Eric, I've done that but can't remember. Thought my manual would help but nope. It's right in that range though. I seem to remember it needs to be kind of a thin wrench.

Wouldn't be the first time I've used an American wrench that was close.

**Theiceman** · 07-04-2019 09:34 AM

Originally Posted by ericA6

I have a set of Craftsman 14-17 open end wrenches and went out and bought a set of Husky 14-17 wrenches... none of which fit the exhaust cam. I am attempting to rotate it slightly to lock it up. I can’t seem to find a tool that fits the notch behind the sprocket. Anyone have any tips?

Also... what size is the balance chain tensioner?

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Can't remember what size I used but i have a full set of craftsman. It doesn't have to be exact. You are only moving it slightly

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**ericA6** · 07-04-2019 09:39 AM

Originally Posted by Theiceman

Can't remember what size I used but i have a full set of craftsman. It doesn't have to be exact. You are only moving it slightly

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Right... problem is both sets are too thick to fit. I’m on my way to Northern Tool to see if I can find a thin set. Also taking the balance chain tensioner with me to fit a socket on it. Biggest size I currently have is a 24mm and it’s too small. Wish me luck! Thank you gentlemen!

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**Snakeman** · 07-04-2019 09:39 AM

I don’t have notches on exhaust cam, i used tool with prongs (found something in my shop) i think you can borrow some tools from your local parts store

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