2000 Audi A4 Avant 1.8T Wont Start.

[wagongang]

I'm hoping that someone has had the same problem I have been experiencing. For a while my car has taken a while to crank (it has 203,xxx on it so I didn't think anything of it) and recently I replaced the spark plugs and now it won't start. I have tried reverting back to the old spark plugs but it still will not fire. When I remove the spark plug is has fuel on it so my thought is that it is just not sparking. I bought all new coil packs and checked the wiring on them. The car is throwing the codes P0140, P1136, and P0441. It is an AEB but has coil packs from an ATW. I have tried using starting fluid to no avail. The guy I bought the car from did some shotty half-a$$ed work on it so it could just be something stupid. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[Dan[FN]6262]

Sounds kind of like a crank position sensor finally died.

[wagongang]

Wouldn't it be throwing a code if that were the case?

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[Dan[FN]6262]

Sometimes

[wagongang]

If you were talking about the sensor below the oil filter I replaced it and the car still won't fire.

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[VanCityA4Q]

Crank sensor is located beside one of the knock sensors and has the Grey 3 pin connector located under the coolant reservoir. If you like I can give you the testing procedure for it. VSS is located under the oil filter if it's the one I think you're talking about. It won't affect a no start. I just had a bad map sensor wire causing a Baro sensor code and MAP sensor code, as well as CPS, all resulting in a no start. None of your codes will cause a no start at all. Do you have access to VCDS or something comparable? Post a scan if you do.

[wagongang]

Unfortunately I don't have access to a VAG-COM. I'm confused as to what sensor you are referring to. From my understanding the crank sensor is the same as the speed sensor. It uses a gray connector under the coolant reservoir. If you have a picture showing the location of the crank sensor that would be great. Thanks for the help!

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[Dan[FN]6262]

That's the one. Have you checked all your fuses and relays?

[wagongang]

I've checked fuses but not relays

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[Turbo_B5]

check compression, that's why my aeb stopped starting, no compression.

[wagongang]

I'll check compression today and update with results.

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[wagongang]

Compression test didn't go well. The rings on the pistons are bad. Right now I cannot afford a new engine unless I can get a deal on one. Thanks for the help everyone.

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[VanCityA4Q]

Might not be your rings, it's more common to see leak's through the valve seats from my experience with these cars. It would be worth pulling the head at this point to check it out. A very simple test to see if it's the seats or not....
Remove cams and head, be sure to align crank and cam to TDC first. Once they are removed all valves should be completely sealed and closed. Flip the head over so the combustion area is facing up and it's level, then pour liquid in each combustion area on the head (I like to use paint thinner as it's much heavier and flows easier than water) check for leaks through the intake and exhaust ports. Carbon can build up over time on the seats and not allow them to close completely. Simply removing your valves at that point and hand lapping them back in will usually get them to seal again rather quickly.


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[VanCityA4Q]

Also on your compression test is the engine is cold you could have low compression just from that, I've seen 1.8T's test 40psi cold then once they warm up they hit 150-160 all day long!


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[Scientist]

When was the last time you replaced the timing belt?

[Turbo_B5]

Might not be your rings, it's more common to see leak's through the valve seats from my experience with these cars. It would be worth pulling the head at this point to check it out. A very simple test to see if it's the seats or not....
Remove cams and head, be sure to align crank and cam to TDC first. Once they are removed all valves should be completely sealed and closed. Flip the head over so the combustion area is facing up and it's level, then pour liquid in each combustion area on the head (I like to use paint thinner as it's much heavier and flows easier than water) check for leaks through the intake and exhaust ports. Carbon can build up over time on the seats and not allow them to close completely. Simply removing your valves at that point and hand lapping them back in will usually get them to seal again rather quickly.


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Also on your compression test is the engine is cold you could have low compression just from that, I've seen 1.8T's test 40psi cold then once they warm up they hit 150-160 all day long!


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my aeb was down near 40-50 cold&dry and could not turn over anymore. oil in the cyl made a reading of 200psi+ confirming bad rings. I should of started it with oil in the cylinder in hindsight.

[wagongang]

my aeb was down near 40-50 cold&dry and could not turn over anymore. oil in the cyl made a reading of 200psi+ confirming bad rings. I should of started it with oil in the cylinder in hindsight.

That's exactly what mine read pre and post oil

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[wagongang]

When was the last time you replaced the timing belt?

I have only had the car since January but it is my understanding that is has been replaced within the past few years

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