Audi stalled at the street light :/ (EPC light + Check Engine)

[Leozbian]

Hi all,

Audi will crank, but not start, AT ALL.

I changed the oil, and the oil filter in my Audi A4. I replaced the filter with a
new one, and poured 5w-30 instead of 5w-40 like the recommended. The
owner's manual said that 5w-40 is recommended but 5w-30 will do just fine
as well.

How it happened: I was driving, and I got a RED Oil pressure warning light.
I stopped at the side of the road, checked the dipstick, oil levels were fine.
They were at the max, and the oil was not leaking all over the ground, or
anywhere else.

I turned on the car again, drove for about 15 miles without the oil pressure
light, put it in sport mode, pressed hard no the gas pedal after the light
turned green, and I guess I was at 6K/7K RPM and then the oil pressure
light came on again. I was 2 minutes from home so I just drove home.

The next day, I take it out for a spin again, and the oil pressure light is on
without doing any sport mode shifts, or high revs, etc. I drove for about a
total of 3-4 miles until my car shut off.

I was stopping at a red light, and once I was completely stopped, my car
turned off completely. The Check engine light came on, and so did the EPC
light.

Cranked 3-4 times, car started again, got to the next light, it shut off once
again. After I cranked it once again, and it started, I got to the nearest
parking lot, and then the car shut off completely and would not start again. I
kind of heard the engine sputter out a little bit, as if it was kind of like a
diesel engine.

I've checked the:
Timing Belt
Alternator
Distributor
Spark Plugs
Fuel Injection
Battery

All seem to be working fine and trying to do what they are supposed to,
timing belt tries to move when I crank, etc. And of course if I crank it long enough, the belt does indeed
keep trying to spin, the car just wont start.

Also, the huge pan that is on screws under the Audi was taken off and I
never put it back on again. I took it off to get to the oil filter, etc.

I bought a cheap VAG-COM cable on Amazon the other day and it should
be here tomorrow, and I will try to test. What a great way for my car to tell
me happy birthday...

[RakkCity]

You might need to test for compression if your spark plugs and injectors are both firing.

[BenMTL]

Try wiggling the oil pressure sensor around...It is a brass (gold colored) sensor connected on the side of the oil filter housing (above the oil filter canister, facing the engine firewall, with 1/2 cables running from it).

However, if your car shutoff on you, it could actually be a pressure issue and not sensor related. That is a serious light and could permanently damage your engine if you drive the car with low oil pressure.

[Okedokey]

oil pump? scan your car

[Der Konig]

So your oil pressure light came on? It went off and you drove for 15 minutes and started flooring it? Not the best of judgement there.

I had a similar issue (didn't beat on it while the light was on), and it turned out the windage tray was damaged (not sure how, this was when I first bought the car and didn't have a space to work on it. In hindsight this doesn't make a lot of sense, but was what I was told and the repairs didn't cost me a penny). The whole top end had to be rebuilt, probably due to accelerated wear of the top end due to oil starvation. This was accompanied by the oil pressure light and bad idle.

Luckily I was at the end of my warranty and AoA completely covered the cost/tow to another city to have it fixed. Just for future reference, DO NOT drive your car with oil pressure warnings. Especially don't beat on it.

Hopefully it isn't anything serious, but just contributing my experience with oil pressure issues.

[Leozbian]

You might need to test for compression if your spark plugs and injectors are both firing.

Can you guide me into any direction of where I can go about doing any of that?

Try wiggling the oil pressure sensor around...It is a brass (gold colored) sensor connected on the side of the oil filter housing (above the oil filter canister, facing the engine firewall, with 1/2 cables running from it).

However, if your car shutoff on you, it could actually be a pressure issue and not sensor related. That is a serious light and could permanently damage your engine if you drive the car with low oil pressure.

Wiggling it around would possibly get it to turn on again? (I actually hope that this works)

oil pump? scan your car

I thought it was the oil pump too, since I had that error pop up before all of this happened. I really hope not because then I'll be SOL having to pay $600 for a new oil pump, and then possibly $1000 on labor. I'll have to turn it into a DIY project.

So your oil pressure light came on? It went off and you drove for 15 minutes and started flooring it? Not the best of judgement there.

I had a similar issue (didn't beat on it while the light was on), and it turned out the windage tray was damaged (not sure how, this was when I first bought the car and didn't have a space to work on it. In hindsight this doesn't make a lot of sense, but was what I was told and the repairs didn't cost me a penny). The whole top end had to be rebuilt, probably due to accelerated wear of the top end due to oil starvation. This was accompanied by the oil pressure light and bad idle.

Luckily I was at the end of my warranty and AoA completely covered the cost/tow to another city to have it fixed. Just for future reference, DO NOT drive your car with oil pressure warnings. Especially don't beat on it.

Hopefully it isn't anything serious, but just contributing my experience with oil pressure issues.

Yeah, I know, definitely not the best choice I've made, but I was really excited after getting the Audi, and wanted to drive it like I stole it for a little. :/ It's hard after you upgrade from a 97 Honda to a B7 Audi. Haha
What kind of price range am I looking at if I'll have to fix this windage tray myself or take it to a local shop? I don't have a warranty for the car from the stealership or anything. :(

To all of you, I have one question, could it be the engine speed sensor, or crank (something) sensor?
I read about everyone else having this problem anywhere I could find it, and although the symptoms are alike, they have different variations of their scenarios, for example they're not able to go over 30 mph because the car shuts off or something, even though my problem was that I was slowing down for streetlights and it would turn off, then.

[Der Konig]

Maybe I am being ignorant here, but how would bad compression cause oil pressure issues?

And i guess in my case the damaged windage tray could have clogged the pick up maybe? Will look back at the records when I get home.

Can't remember 100%, but the bill was big....like around 2k big but I didn't have to pay any of it since AoA took the bill. I am not sure the labor that would be required to replace the oil pump/windage tray/pick up, but it is going be pretty involved.

Here is a good write up on compression testing, but again I am not sure how those two would be related.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...test-14912158/

[Theiceman]

We don't have the whole story here.
How long have you owned the car. ? How long after you bought it did you change the oil , how long after that did the issues start.

I'm thinking possibly bad oil pump causing low pressure and op ignored the warnings until something broke.

[Leozbian]

Maybe I am being ignorant here, but how would bad compression cause oil pressure issues?

And i guess in my case the damaged windage tray could have clogged the pick up maybe? Will look back at the records when I get home.

Can't remember 100%, but the bill was big....like around 2k big but I didn't have to pay any of it since AoA took the bill. I am not sure the labor that would be required to replace the oil pump/windage tray/pick up, but it is going be pretty involved.


Here is a good write up on compression testing, but again I am not sure how those two would be related.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...test-14912158/

Hopefully it's not the so windage tray then, and thank you for the link. Also, thank you for the help in general.

We don't have the whole story here.
How long have you owned the car. ? How long after you bought it did you change the oil , how long after that did the issues start.

I'm thinking possibly bad oil pump causing low pressure and op ignored the warnings until something broke.

I've owned the car for 2 months. I changed the oil after I bought it. The OIL light was on, not the oil pressure.
The issues pretty much started after I changed the oil.
Oil pressure light never came on before changing the oil.

I did buy it on an auction though, so maybe that right there was where I went wrong.

[Theiceman]

Every statement you have made in your original post indicates oil pressure light. Can you answer the <script id="gpt-impl-0.38549577691753567" src="http://partner.googleadservices.com/gpt/pubads_impl_88.js"></script>question I asked ? how long after you bought it did you change the oil and how long after that before you noticed the issues

What i am trying to determine is did you buy it with the problem. I have seen many times cars going to auction with low oil pressure all kinds of crap dumped in the crankcase to turn off the light ( Lucas crap, oil thickeners, heavy weight oil")

Just to cover up low oil pressure.

As soon as you change back to regular weigh bingo oil pressure light.
When you horse it with low oil pressure the engine lifespan unfortunately will be rather short
The fact the car won't start states it is obviously not just the sensor.

I think I would take all the plugs out and see how easily it turns over with a wrench on the crank before doing anything else.

[Okedokey]

Scan your car

[Copen-cisco]

For a minute I thought your forum name was Lezbian.. that would have been pretty cool.

Yes, scan your car and get the codes. Stop by any Autozone and get them to scan it for free.

[Leozbian]

Every statement you have made in your original post indicates oil pressure light. Can you answer the <script id="gpt-impl-0.38549577691753567" src="http://partner.googleadservices.com/gpt/pubads_impl_88.js"></script>question I asked ? how long after you bought it did you change the oil and how long after that before you noticed the issues

What i am trying to determine is did you buy it with the problem. I have seen many times cars going to auction with low oil pressure all kinds of crap dumped in the crankcase to turn off the light ( Lucas crap, oil thickeners, heavy weight oil")

Just to cover up low oil pressure.

As soon as you change back to regular weigh bingo oil pressure light.
When you horse it with low oil pressure the engine lifespan unfortunately will be rather short
The fact the car won't start states it is obviously not just the sensor.

I think I would take all the plugs out and see how easily it turns over with a wrench on the crank before doing anything else.

No, I didn't have the light before I changed the oil. Take out the spark plugs?

[Theiceman]

Yeah I would want to make sure it turns over smoothly ( after you check your codes for obvious stuff first of course )

[Leozbian]

First of all, sorry for bumping an old thread.
I finally got around to wanting to fix the car and got a VAG-COM scanner.

What I did in the mean time was buy a crankshaft sensor and an evap valve and already replaced them, so I'm kind of scared why this is popping up now.

Anyways, if anyone has some time on their hands,

would be gladly appreciated..

Just want to know why the car isn't turning over.

The camshaft sensor I replaced was actually a $10 one from eBay, (hah) but then I replaced it to OEM after car didn't turn over again, and this is a scan with OEM sensor.
The evap valve is still in there, the one I replaced. Bosch.

P.S. I really didn't know where to post this... so its here

https://www.scribd.com/document/322229822/Codes

[Der Konig]

Good god, with all of those electrical issues...

That many gremlins almost makes me want to point to the ECU.

[Okedokey]

Charge your battery, the voltage is too low and this can cause all kinds of false positives. Make sure you clear all codes and then rescan.

[canadianA4B7]

Does your car have electrical power??? Has your engine completely locked up? Like did you seize the thing running it w low oil and it's royally fucked?? Have you replaced the parts the scanner suggested?? N75 n80 are pretty important stuff spend the money and get oem from a rep seller and often don't trust Ebay (this is an opinion based on buying from eBay)

Is your starter fucked? Does the car click or anything when you turn over? Have you removed the plugs and inspected then manually turned the engine w a wrench??

Your asking some questions being provided top notch feedback but I don't see anywhere that you've done what ppl have suggested (other then the scan). It's Great you scanned clearly the items in the scan need repair.
Being all the voltage loss reads maybe you have a ground somewhere not attached?
Maybe you got water in your Ecu and its crapped out on you? All sorts of maybes at this point.
Have you checked your fuse panel?
Does your battery have proper voltage? Recent discovery 10.7 volts will start the car, batt will then show 13.2 v charging from alternator, but when fans turn on your car dies. (This just happened different but still a reason to check voltage as maybe your batts on its last legs)
Is there any oil draining from turbo or from filter housing?
Is there fuel in your tank?
Is your lpfp working? Like when you open door can you hear the thing buzzing from below rear passengers seat?

[wriscolf]

Does your car have electrical power??? Has your engine completely locked up? Like did you seize the thing running it w low oil and it's royally fucked?? Have you replaced the parts the scanner suggested?? N75 n80 are pretty important stuff spend the money and get oem from a rep seller and often don't trust Ebay (this is an opinion based on buying from eBay)

Is your starter fucked? Does the car click or anything when you turn over? Have you removed the plugs and inspected then manually turned the engine w a wrench??

Your asking some questions being provided top notch feedback but I don't see anywhere that you've done what ppl have suggested (other then the scan). It's Great you scanned clearly the items in the scan need repair.
Being all the voltage loss reads maybe you have a ground somewhere not attached?
Maybe you got water in your Ecu and its crapped out on you? All sorts of maybes at this point.
Have you checked your fuse panel?
Does your battery have proper voltage? Recent discovery 10.7 volts will start the car, batt will then show 13.2 v charging from alternator, but when fans turn on your car dies. (This just happened different but still a reason to check voltage as maybe your batts on its last legs)
Is there any oil draining from turbo or from filter housing?
Is there fuel in your tank?
Is your lpfp working? Like when you open door can you hear the thing buzzing from below rear passengers seat?

OP, This. Canadiana4b7 just gave you a whole walk through. Coming from someone who has had/have electrical issues, codes pop up weirdly due to not having enough. If you want to start there. Since you did buy it at a auction, you have no idea the maintance. Changing battery and alternator could be a good way to start the clock for yourself.

Do what i have been doing and tackle the codes one at a time. Since I plan on keeping the car for a bit. I am starting my own clock on maintance no matter what the previous owner says. Only thing i am not doing is the Timing Belt due to him showing me pictures of him taking apart the car and he seems honest. the rest of the issues im just replacing it and hoping for the best.

[Leozbian]

Does your car have electrical power??? Has your engine completely locked up? Like did you seize the thing running it w low oil and it's royally fucked?? Have you replaced the parts the scanner suggested?? N75 n80 are pretty important stuff spend the money and get oem from a rep seller and often don't trust Ebay (this is an opinion based on buying from eBay)

Is your starter fucked? Does the car click or anything when you turn over? Have you removed the plugs and inspected then manually turned the engine w a wrench??

Your asking some questions being provided top notch feedback but I don't see anywhere that you've done what ppl have suggested (other then the scan). It's Great you scanned clearly the items in the scan need repair.
Being all the voltage loss reads maybe you have a ground somewhere not attached?
Maybe you got water in your Ecu and its crapped out on you? All sorts of maybes at this point.
Have you checked your fuse panel?
Does your battery have proper voltage? Recent discovery 10.7 volts will start the car, batt will then show 13.2 v charging from alternator, but when fans turn on your car dies. (This just happened different but still a reason to check voltage as maybe your batts on its last legs)
Is there any oil draining from turbo or from filter housing?
Is there fuel in your tank?
Is your lpfp working? Like when you open door can you hear the thing buzzing from below rear passengers seat?

What do you suggest I start with first?

I mean yeah, I can turn the ignition on and see dashboard lights etc. (I'm sorry if that was a noob answer :()
I don't think it completely locked up because wouldn't the engine be dead-silent and just not do anything if I tried to crank?
When I try to crank it, it whirrs.

No it doesn't click, it just whirs.

I could have got water in my ECU, at first I went to a car wash, then I went out and it started raining...

I have checked my fuse panel, didn't see anything unusual. I checked every fuse especially the oil pump.

This test was run on a battery that I charged, yes.

How can I check the draining oil? When I replaced the filter housing, oil dripped out all over me. There are no oil leaks below the car.
Yes, there is fuel, but when the car crapped out on me it was close to empty. I got a canister of 91 and poured it in there.
Yes LPFP working

[king_j]

Didn't read all the responses.
But if it sounded like a diesel, then oil was not circulating.
Oil pickup tube or something along those lines.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Okedokey]

Discharge the battery leads by shorting them together (without the battery connected) for 15 minutes. Retry.

[Tenedorr]

I had kind of the same thing going on, tons of codes except most of mine were fuel pressure related and the car wouldnt start once in a while. I replaced the components the codes told me were failing to no avail, still a bunch of codes, turns out the relays inside the ECU box got wet and fried. Take the cover off the ECU box and look for any water, while you're in there you might as well change out the relays.

[Leozbian]

Bump


So I called over my friend and he opened up the oil cap and saw that the camshaft wasn't spinning when I was trying to turn the Audi over...

We took off the engine cover and saw inside and there was metal shavings and a piece of plastic in there....

is this my chain tensioner or something?

The timing belt isn't ripped, the "exhaust camshaft" I believe is spinning and it attempts to spin the timing belt

I got a error code for the camshaft position sensor but I'm not sure if that's the reason for the no-start or why the camshaft isn't spinning when i try to start it..

Any thoughts?

[Okedokey]

Crap mate. Remove the vacuum pump and inspect the timing chain. Sounds like it may have snapped or jumped if the tensioner has failed.

[vvenom800tt]

Sounds like a cam chain tensioner for sure. It your exhaust cam is spinning but not your intake then youre pretty fucked

[B72011]

Yeah, the guy above said it exactly right. Another one bites the dust! Every guy on here knows that day is coming--its just a matter of when.
Several things for sure in life.
1. Death
2. Taxes
3. A F8cked Audi

[canadianA4B7]

Pick up motor from wreckers. Or see if the guy in the b5 section will sell you the ALH block and head for $600. I know guys it's an ALH motor and 1.8T head. But wud be a deal for the op to do a rebuild. I think the ALH block was what someone else used in the past. But if he's in for a rebuild and already failed motor once why not build off of something a bit more solid.

Op your kinda up shits creek if things are bad (which it looks like). You got options and it's gonna take time, money and a whole shit ton of patience. You've got a ton of info on this site, I hope for you there's a few local members who if they got a bit of time might be able to lend some advice and for the right amount of beer (Canadian currency) you cud likely even get a extra hand.

Prep for the worst. Like this will cost you $75000, now when it costs you much less you can thank me later.

[Leozbian]

I have an engine hoist cherry picker,

would my best bet to be disconnecting the engine completely and working on it while it's out of the car?
also i have a a 2.7t S-line engine from a 2004 A6, should I swap?


Also, has anyone made a DIY guide for camshaft chain tensioner?

[Theiceman]

there is a guy doing a thread right now with a 2.7 T swap. that's what I would do . Throw current engine away as you have probably bent valves as well as sent metal fragments everywhere.