Dead Car need help

[Jerritt]

I put gas treatment in my car when my tank was 3/4 full. I then read the directions that said to put the treatment in my tank when it was less than a quarter full. My car started chugging immediately and was giving me issues when starting. My car now wont start at all and isnt getting any gas. My rpms when I try to crank over wont even go passed the first line. Does anyone have any idea what I need to do to fix it? I towed it to Audi of Manhattan and they want $215 just to diagnose it and that comes in addition to any repair costs. HELP!

[piotrowr]

Let us know what they find. I have never used gas treatment in my life.

[onceover]

Why did you put gas treatment in the car in the first place? Was it running rough? How do you know it's not getting gas? Have you tried to see if there's pressure at the fuel rail?

[poweredbyaudi7]

What was the treatment you used?

[Liquid Smoke]

yea what did you use? i've not used actual gas treatment before but i've used Berryman B12 cleaner, which you pour into the gas tank, filled when it was low then filled up gas, etc. as it instructs. but that was a cleaner and not for the actual gas so im not sure if there's a difference. but i've used that twice and have had no issues.

maybe whatever you poured in didn't mix in all the way and the fuel pump is currently pumping just that and not getting the power. maybe stick something in the tank and stir? lol. or did you try to fill some more gas into it from a container and then try it again.

[Allowencer]

If you put the treatment into the tank and you have 75% full of gas, then it really would dilute the treatment.

What you can do is hook the hose from the fuel line to the High Pressure Fuel Pump, send that hose to a tank/bucket and hot wire the fuel pump relay to stay running. This will basically drain the tank.

[b6Hate4]

Why did you put gas treatment in the car in the first place? Was it running rough? How do you know it's not getting gas? Have you tried to see if there's pressure at the fuel rail?

This. Check pressure at fuel rail would be my first thought.

[Jerritt]

How do you check pressure at the fuel rail?

- - - Updated - - -

If you put the treatment into the tank and you have 75% full of gas, then it really would dilute the treatment.

What you can do is hook the hose from the fuel line to the High Pressure Fuel Pump, send that hose to a tank/bucket and hot wire the fuel pump relay to stay running. This will basically drain the tank.

I'm not even going to pretend to know how to do this...

[b6Hate4]

You need a fuel pressure test gauge. There is a shrader valve on the rail that this connects to.

[Jerritt]

What was the treatment you used?

The basic autozone gas treatment.

[van462]

I would think the treatment would also be so dilute it shouldn't have much if any effect. Its at the dealership now so not much you can do. I suspect they would first run diagnostic scan for codes. Verify the evap system and fuel pumps are working. Drain fuel and possible charge for a disposal fee. Refuel and see if corrects issue. They may want to charge for a new fuel filter (which is in the gas tank attached to the pump). Did a check engine illuminate? Was the gas cap off with the engine running by chance?

[Jerritt]

I would think the treatment would also be so dilute it shouldn't have much if any effect. Its at the dealership now so not much you can do. I suspect they would first run diagnostic scan for codes. Verify the evap system and fuel pumps are working. Drain fuel and possible charge for a disposal fee. Refuel and see if corrects issue. They may want to charge for a new fuel filter (which is in the gas tank attached to the pump). Did a check engine illuminate? Was the gas cap off with the engine running by chance?

I picked it up from the dealer. They wanted $215 to diagnose and that would be in addition to any repair costs. Audis of Manhattan sucks!!! I called AUDI of Brooklyn who said they would charge $140 and the charge would come off of any repairs I did with them. I'm trying to see if I can fix it before bringing it to them tomorrow. I may have to have it towed tonight.

[Allowencer]

You need a fuel pressure test gauge. There is a shrader valve on the rail that this connects to.

You gotta have a high FP PSI gauge as the rail is under a very HIGH PSI pressure as the HPFP supplies it.

[Jerritt]

So we pulled the fuel line from the engine and fuel came rushing out while the car was off. Doesnt seem to be a fuel issue. Audi is saying my timing was off on my car and my valve is hitting my piston and he needs to open up the entire engine. Not sure what I believe at this point. I do here clicking inside the engine itself which leads me to believe he may be right but he is asking $4k to fix it. 10hrs $145/hr. Does anyone know who can do this cheaper in the brooklyn area?

[Allowencer]

Wow, another timing tensioner. Man, that's quite rare that you put additive in and then the car won't start. Check out the threads I have, you'll learn all about it. It is not a cheap fix at all. I'm at close to $2,500 in necessary parts alone to get my engine back up and running; I'm doing the repair myself.

[b6Hate4]

You gotta have a high FP PSI gauge as the rail is under a very HIGH PSI pressure as the HPFP supplies it.

D'oh. That slipped my mind at the time.

[Allowencer]

D'oh. That slipped my mind at the time.

It does to me too; especially if you're more familiar with non-direct injected engines.

[buelldozer]

So we pulled the fuel line from the engine and fuel came rushing out while the car was off. Doesnt seem to be a fuel issue. Audi is saying my timing was off on my car and my valve is hitting my piston and he needs to open up the entire engine. Not sure what I believe at this point. I do here clicking inside the engine itself which leads me to believe he may be right but he is asking $4k to fix it. 10hrs $145/hr. Does anyone know who can do this cheaper in the brooklyn area?

To be honest a timing tensioner / timing chain failure was my very first thought after I read your first post. The way it failed for you is classic and it's exactly how it failed for me. Honestly If you've got someone willing to fix it for 4K you're not doing bad as once the timing assembly fails it's a real job to get everything fixed up again.

[Jerritt]

Wow, another timing tensioner. Man, that's quite rare that you put additive in and then the car won't start. Check out the threads I have, you'll learn all about it. It is not a cheap fix at all. I'm at close to $2,500 in necessary parts alone to get my engine back up and running; I'm doing the repair myself.

What parts did you need?

[buelldozer]

What parts did you need?

Here is his thread where's he's working on this: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-and-front-end

You have to understand that this is heavy mechanical work. You will at the very least be taking the top end of your motor apart. If you've never seen pistons in their natural habitat before then then doing this probably isn't for you.

[Jerritt]

It does to me too; especially if you're more familiar with non-direct injected engines.

You can remove the top timing cover without taking off the front end of the car correct? is it just the 5 bolts?
Can I check the pressure on the fuel line even if the car is dead?

[Allowencer]

Correct on the upper timing cover.

Yes; you need a high pressure gauge though. When you open the drivers door, you can hear the fuel pump prime. Also, when you just turn the ignition 'on' (not start the car), that will also prime the fuel system. You can hear a faint whine coming from the trunk area (gas tank).