Upper Control Arms: Meyle or TRW?

**arjun90** · 05-24-2016 08:57 AM

If you had to replace control arms and had to choose between the following Brands (budget-conscious), which would you go with, Meyle or TRW?

**Audibot** · 05-24-2016 09:09 AM

I'd go with the FCP Euro kit. Done.

Of the two, either. I've used Meyle before with no issues, and currently my inner tie rods are those. I have used TRW, and my outers happen to be those. So either/or.

**n8henn** · 05-24-2016 09:28 AM

I just replaced all of my front suspension components. I went with Meyle HD uppers, TRW (curved) lower, Febi-Bilstein (straight) lowers and TRW tie rod ends. All was sourced through FCP and I'm super stoked on the end result. You cant beat the price or the warranty.

**Audibot** · 05-24-2016 09:31 AM

Yeah that warranty is something else.

**arjun90** · 05-24-2016 09:36 AM

TRW may be an OEM supplier, but is certainly not OEM to my particular make and model. Current TRW Upper control arms are Made in Malaysia, and I think they're intended for the Aftermarket sector. I drive on pretty rough road conditions, and the bushing construction on the Meyle look attractive. Is it worth the extra premium? TRW is $168 vs Meyle HD $229 (Made in Turkey). I see Meyle puts a lot of emphasis on R&D, but who doesn't?

Definitely want something which will last. Structurally, my control arms look intact, just the bushings need to replaced, but there is little difference in terms of cost.

**Audibot** · 05-24-2016 09:38 AM

I'm running an FCP control arm kit (Idk who the brand is) on Maryland roads (which are complete garbage--I've cracked two wheels and bent another alone since Feb). These control arms are holding up just fine.

**n8henn** · 05-24-2016 09:47 AM

I don't think you can go wrong either way. I had noticed my lower curved (oe) were TRW for what its worth. I had sprung for the HD's simply because it seemed like a killer price compared to what everyone else charges.
Regardless which you choose, you might wanna start spraying your pinch bolt with penetrating oil (pb blaster/wd 40) in anticipation of the job. My pinch bolts on the AR came out with minimal hassle however it seemed too good to be true and when I moved on to the lowers, the curved control arm ball joint was seized as an MF. I tried everything and ultimately applying heat never fails. lol!

**glennda5id** · 05-24-2016 10:57 AM

My understanding is that TRW is the OE supplier for the lower control arms and Lemfoerder is the OE supplier for the uppers.

I am not a fan of Meyle but I have not used their control arms.

**Mad Cow** · 05-24-2016 06:09 PM

Originally Posted by glennda5id

My understanding is that TRW is the OE supplier for the lower control arms and Lemfoerder is the OE supplier for the uppers.

I am not a fan of Meyle but I have not used their control arms.

From what I've seen LMO was the oem up until the early '00s when they switched to TRW. I guess in-between cars could've ended up with both brands.

Regardless, I'd go with TRW over meyle any day.

**arjun90** · 05-24-2016 06:37 PM

I opted for the Meyle HD's mainly because of the rigidity of its rubber bushings. The TRW's weren't OEM for this particular vehicle. After reading a little more into TRW's logistics, TRW has a whole separate aftermarket division catered to the aftermarket. My car was 100% European to begin with; thus if TRW was an OE Supplier in that era for the A6 3.0L Avant '04, then it must have been for the lower control arms or some other suspension-related component manufactured somewhere in Europe. It was either the Meyle HD's or Lemforder, but based on price and specification, I found the Meyle's more favorable.

**arjun90** · 05-24-2016 06:48 PM

Oh, has anyone considered Ocap Blauparts?

**arjun90** · 05-24-2016 08:22 PM

Awesome Price!
https://www.europaparts.com/control-...5-genuine.html

Upgraded design
Genuine OEM with Genuine Audi/VW logos
Manufactured by Lemforder
Includes a complete upper control arm hardware kit

**arjun90** · 05-25-2016 05:27 AM

https://www.europaparts.com/control-...5-genuine.html

**PaperToast** · 05-25-2016 07:49 AM

ill make this easy for ya
meyle hds's for the uppers and TRE's
trw for the lowers

done and done

i have multiple tens of thousands of miles on those, still going strong

**n8henn** · 05-25-2016 11:19 AM

What he said^^^^^. Damn arjunzine, I've always been known to do my research and in many cases, over-think things but you sir take it to a whole new level. Haha! Thx man, you make me look sane. Lol!

**a4kamila6** · 05-25-2016 01:32 PM

I wonder who makes the 034 kit. They have a kit for steel and aluminum knuckles. Around 500.

**arjun90** · 05-25-2016 04:54 PM

I've read mixed reviews on the 034 Kit

I'm settled now on the Meyle's. As long as they're torque'd properly, I should not have to doubt. I did opt for the Lemforders on the Tie Rod Assemblies. Thanks for the feedback.

You know what they say, right?

Get it right the first time

**arjun90** · 05-25-2016 04:56 PM

Before I go on creating another thread, in which order would you do the repair work? Tie Rods--> Control Arms--> Struts?

**glennda5id** · 05-25-2016 06:53 PM

Originally Posted by arjun90

Before I go on creating another thread, in which order would you do the repair work? Tie Rods--> Control Arms--> Struts?

How many miles?

Inspect the control arms. Are the rubber bushings cracked? When the upper arms are very bad you can rotate them back and forth with the car on the ground.

Inspect the ball joint boots on the control arms.

For the tie rods, if the ball joint boot is not cracked they are probably okay.

Struts...look for leaking fluid and how does the car handle, especially over bumps. Is it excessively bouncy?

**Audibot** · 05-25-2016 08:15 PM

^^ This.

Sometimes you can also do the shake test. With one of the front wheels off the ground (but tire still attached), rock the wheel back and forth horizontally. If it rocks, you have play in the tie rods. If you rock it back and forth vertically, you have play elsewhere, such as control arms. Repeat for other wheel.

**arjun90** · 05-25-2016 09:23 PM

I've already confirmed play on the driver side, definitely tie rods
Passenger side--no play

However, while driving, occasional squeaking, but persistent rattling is present. The bumps are loud, and car rebounds a couple of times before coming to rest. The roads here are very inconsistent enough to flag a false-positive. I didn't find much play in the control arms. Its the sounds which concern me. I'd rather go about this all in one go then have an alignment done.

I just realized I needed a Bump Stop

**arjun90** · 05-25-2016 09:25 PM

As far as actual procedure goes, would you recommend changing tie rods first then struts, or vise versa? I'm trying a to follow a well-defined sequence. I also purchased new sway bar links. In essence, the whole front suspension is getting a makeover with the exception being the springs and lower control arms.

I'm pretty sure I don't need a Ball Joint Separator, I'll just rent a spring compressor from local parts store