Build time. BT Avant content

[Mr.Avant]

Greetings audizine.

I'd like to organize my thoughts and information in this thread for others viewing and opinions. Im in the midst of a BT 1.8 build/swap for the avant.

Little background on myself and the car, Im a 21 yo red seal automotive mechanic. I purchased this car 4 years ago as a high school graduation present for myself. She has come a long way, but i will simply let the pictures do the talking.

Picture from the day i picked it up. Clean, 03 Avant 5spd Quattro, black interior, 170,000 kms


Didnt take long for the modifying to begin. H&R springs and wheels to start.


As the car progressed:






Keep in mind this is my daily.


















Bi-xenon S4 lights


Winter Mode:


And These resemble how she currently sits.

















Onto the good stuff. I recently purchased a proffesional, freshly built 1.8l AMB short block with a rebuilt cylinder head from a private seller. He was able to provide me proof of parts, as well as labour to do the work. Knowing I was taking a bit of a risk, I decided this was the best opportunity to begin a BT build for the car. Im shooting to maintain as much driveability/reliability as possible, while looking for around 350-400 AWHP.

Im looking for others feedback on some of the parts I need to complete this build. Specs are as follows.

Engine:
1.8l crank, ground and polished
Manley H beam connecting rods
Je pistons 81.5mm bore 8.5:1 Compression
Block and cylinder head hot tanked, cleaned, painted
New oil pump, pickup, chain, seals etc.
Cylinder head was rebuilt to oem specs, valve grind, pressure tested
OEM audi cylinder head gasket
ARP head studs, cam bolt, crank bolt
IE manual tensioner belt kit with continental belt
Fluidampner front crank pulley
New thermostat & coolant flange

Engine ventilation:
Vent to atmosphere


Turbo/ Manifold:
EFR 6758 .64 ar vband
Pag parts ss vband manifold
All custom stainless braided oil/coolant/lines

Fuel:
Return style fuel conversion using AEB fuel rail
Bosch 040 pump
034 drop in pump kit
Adjustable fpr
Injector dynamics 1000cc
-6 AN stainless braided lines
-6 modified fuel filter

Clutch:
JHM single mass flywheel w/ rs4 pressure plate. Stg 1

Mounts:
Density mounts (street) for engine and trans (034)
Rear diff insert (034)
Poly snub mount (034)

Intercooler:
Evolution raceworks competition series

Water/Meth:
Snow performance stg 2 running on a third party AEM map 0-5v input
Nozzle post throttle body

Tuning:
Bische performance
AEM map sender (input to rear 02 signal for datalogging)
B6 s4 maf sensor
Mk7 golf r map sensor
New crank/ cam/ knock/ o2/ coolant & intake temp sensors

Bische has given me much insight into the best hardware for this build, and will be doing the tuning on this car.

Thanks for reading this far.... Heres a couple more pics of the long block.

[MoparFreak69]

Nice and clean Avant! You should be able to reach your HP goals with that setup, if you want to go higher you will definitely want to do valve work.

[Mr.Avant]

This pag parts kit really caught my interest. Vband is such a nice set up. Although big dollars.

http://pagparts.com/product_info.php...roducts_id=700

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[BerNur]

Very nice start and build .

That's what I have on my car I wouldn't go any other way pag parts mani is the best bottom mount option.

I had PSi but swapped it for pag.


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[tar]

spa manifolds are known to crack and are basically a huge opening about halfway in think baseball glove, for downpipe 034 but expect to need to rework some of their welds.

psi is gone so i wouldnt use them.(jeff wont even answer pms and they are local to me).

your best bet for that power is the pag setup with ur turbo of choice they can get a efr if requested and price is a tad higher than a gtx.
have not read of any issues on them and a few friends run them. its what ill be going to once my motors built(on a 2871 elim for a temp setup) for tuning i suggest going maestro over all else. its just the best bang for your buck, fmic go custom as majoirty off the shelfs leave alot to be desired and cost a ton.

treadstone(with a ebay or similar piping kit and lots of people have diyed piping. or one of pagparts fmic kits to pair with his turbokit would be nice.

water meth whatever kit you want aem/snow ect are all fine. i suggest looking at USRT for injectors, meth ect setups.

best of luck with ur build looks like its got a great start.

[vwdann0]

Very interested in the side skirts, info please

[Mr.Avant]

Very interested in the side skirts, info please

Relak skirts. They did a small pre-order production run last spring and I was able to grab a set.

Edit:
http://www.relakhq.com/Side-Skirts-FRP-SSB6B7FRP.htm

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[eljay]

Beautiful Avant!
How did you find such a clean set of white suede Recaros?! Or did you have them re-upholstered?

Good luck with the build.

[csosnowski]

Sweet

[Furly]

Looking good!

[Mr.Avant]

Beautiful Avant!
How did you find such a clean set of white suede Recaros?! Or did you have them re-upholstered?

Good luck with the build.

Just got lucky I suppose. The bottom of the Dr seat had the whole cover replaced. But the rest are almost perfect. Paid good dollar for the set. Very hard to maintain I might add.

Very nice start and build .

That's what I have on my car I wouldn't go any other way pag parts mani is the best bottom mount option.

I had PSi but swapped it for pag.


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The vw vortex seems to love pag parts. All I've seen is good things so far.

spa manifolds are known to crack and are basically a huge opening about halfway in think baseball glove, for downpipe 034 but expect to need to rework some of their welds.

psi is gone so i wouldnt use them.(jeff wont even answer pms and they are local to me).

your best bet for that power is the pag setup with ur turbo of choice they can get a efr if requested and price is a tad higher than a gtx.
have not read of any issues on them and a few friends run them. its what ill be going to once my motors built(on a 2871 elim for a temp setup) for tuning i suggest going maestro over all else. its just the best bang for your buck, fmic go custom as majoirty off the shelfs leave alot to be desired and cost a ton.

treadstone(with a ebay or similar piping kit and lots of people have diyed piping. or one of pagparts fmic kits to pair with his turbokit would be nice.

water meth whatever kit you want aem/snow ect are all fine. i suggest looking at USRT for injectors, meth ect setups.

best of luck with ur build looks like its got a great start.

The pag parts kit (despite the price) might be the best place to find everything I need all in one. What are your thoughts on turbo selection for my goals?

Also started looking at the treadstone core + crx piping. Seems like a reasonable setup. Much cheaper than ER.

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[eljay]

Just got lucky I suppose. The bottom of the Dr seat had the whole cover replaced. But the rest are almost perfect. Paid good dollar for the set. Very hard to maintain I might add.

Thanks! Yeah, new covers are the easiest route, but a single cover costs almost the same as the whole set of seats. So, I am searching for the fabric to re-do the bottom cover.
And here's something to help you keep them clean: Sonax Upholstery Alcantara Cleaner

[Mr.Avant]

Thanks! I've got some alcantra cleaner in the glove box for immediate action. Along with a white microfiber (no worry of dye transfer)

On another note I'm picking up a snow performance meth kit I found local private seller again. Brand new in box, stg 2. Cross another item off the list. Pics when I get it in my hands.

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[diagnosticator]

Do you understand that a BAT setup will seriously compromise lower RPM area under the torque curve with negative effects on street responsiveness and drivability? Several owners of high power BAT setups over the years have posted that they regret modifying the engine with a BAT setup. The car is just not as fun to drive daily with a BAT. A smaller turbo with a suitable exhaust manifold runner diameter that is relatively small, to provide the best boost response on the street with the most area under the torque curve over the most used street RPM range provides a snappy and fun daily street driver compared to a BAT. Running lower peak boost pressure helps retain reliability also. Keeping a BAT running well is often a PIA, and $$$. Mods suitable for a drag car just don't work well on the street. A4s are lousy 1/4 mile cars anyway. The only time a modified big turbo setup is running at the "goal" output is at max RPM, an operating mode never useful or practical on the street.
Consider all of the overall results of the mods you are planning and be informed of the big picture or you will be disappointed with the build.


*BAT: Big Ass Turbo.

[Mr.Avant]

Do you understand that a BAT setup will seriously compromise lower RPM area under the torque curve with negative effects on street responsiveness and drivability? Several owners of high power BAT setups over the years have posted that they regret modifying the engine with a BAT setup. The car is just not as fun to drive daily with a BAT. A smaller turbo with a suitable exhaust manifold runner diameter that is relatively small, to provide the best boost response on the street with the most area under the torque curve over the most used street RPM range provides a snappy and fun daily street driver compared to a BAT. Running lower peak boost pressure helps retain reliability also. Keeping a BAT running well is often a PIA, and $$$. Mods suitable for a drag car just don't work well on the street. A4s are lousy 1/4 mile cars anyway. The only time a modified big turbo setup is running at the "goal" output is at max RPM, an operating mode never useful or practical on the street.
Consider all of the overall results of the mods you are planning and be informed of the big picture or you will be disappointed with the build.


*BAT: Big Ass Turbo.

Good information. I actually was able to ride in a b6 this morning. Running a gt3076. Glad I was able to experience the lag of that large size turbo. Not something that was fun to drive out of the power curve. I may have to reconsider turbo size, at the risk of smaller peak numbers. This makes me more inclined to consider the borg warner efr, or a smaller gtx series.

Are you suggesting some of my considerations are more suitable for drag use vs street driving? Such as?

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[jjvwg]

Curious, how much boost was the gt3076 car running and at what psi did it hit said boost?

[Mr.Avant]

Here's what I know about it.

Aeb head
1.8l
PSi manifold
Gt3076
1000cc injectors

Tuned by motoza 23 psi peak

Didnt really begin to spool until 4000+. Peak came on shortly after. Maybe 4500. And it was quite a dog under 4000.


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[FromS60toB61.8t]

Here's what I know about it.

Aeb head
1.8l
PSi manifold
Gt3076
1000cc injectors

Tuned by motoza 23 psi peak

Didnt really begin to spool until 4000+. Peak came on shortly after. Maybe 4500. And it was quite a dog under 4000.


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i have almost the same setup with same goals. Im running a GTX2867r eliminator. It spools to 22 psi at roughly 3700 RPM on an oem exhaust mani. After cracking a 034 high flow mani and multiple problems with oem mani, im getting a twin scroll tubular manifold made and switching my turbine to the t3 twin scroll turbine with 3" v-band. The lag sucks but its not terrible. I would highly recommend a tubular manifold instead of the crap log manifolds that crack all the time and are a pain in the ass to install. Also running motoza and he knows what hes doing. Make sure your water pump isnt a GEBA, they tend to seize alot. It grenaded my head a few years ago.

the bosch 040 might limit you in the 300HP range, 1000cc injectors are what dave recommends on this setup. I run the bosch ev14's. The fuel pump i run is the detschwerks DW65V.

[Mr.Avant]

That sounds much more reasonable boost pressure than this 3076r was able to achieve.

Do you have a dyno graph of the 2876 eliminator? Is 22 psi reaching the top end of capability, or is there more room in the tuning?

I'm seriously considering the spa top mount manifold or the pag parts bottom mount vband mani at this point.

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[FromS60toB61.8t]

That sounds much more reasonable boost pressure than this 3076r was able to achieve.

Do you have a dyno graph of the 2876 eliminator? Is 22 psi reaching the top end of capability, or is there more room in the tuning?

I'm seriously considering the spa top mount manifold or the pag parts bottom mount vband mani at this point.

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out of the 2, i recommend the top mount. Bottom mounts put so much stress on the manifold and just have non stop issues unless you make a proper brace for it.

Were still tuning it. The fuel is finally where he wants it to be so now were going to up the boost. Make sure you upgrade to a 3bar MAP sensor if you plan on using the N75 as your boost controller and going over 22psi. If not then just use the stock one and an MBC. There are plenty map sensors online for like $40 from the newer R's. I can give you the P/N if you need it.

The last dyno that i ran with the 22 psi was at 260whp but he said it was reading roughly 30hp under. In the beginning, on the base tune, i was running 31psi and it had 340whp haha. This is all pre-WMI, so all of these numbers should increase considerably post 50/50 mix. I just got my WMI installed and running last week. He's working on a 3Bar map tune right now and then ill run some logs with the WMI. Im having a tubular manifold made up in the next few weeks with twin scroll and dual wastegate dump, but im also trying to diagnose a break down last night haha. If you want, PM me and i can keep you updated. My goal is to have everything installed and tuned by the time waterfest comes along. My overall goal is to have atleast 400awhp before 4k rpms. So in about a month or so, the new setup should be finished.

Im also running a 600HP garrett core with 2.5" piping and a 3" billet MAF.

is your head and intake mani an AEB or small port? If its not AEB then that might hinder and slow down your goals as well.

[Mr.Avant]

out of the 2, i recommend the top mount. Bottom mounts put so much stress on the manifold and just have non stop issues unless you make a proper brace for it.

Were still tuning it. The fuel is finally where he wants it to be so now were going to up the boost. Make sure you upgrade to a 3bar MAP sensor if you plan on using the N75 as your boost controller and going over 22psi. If not then just use the stock one and an MBC. There are plenty map sensors online for like $40 from the newer R's. I can give you the P/N if you need it.

The last dyno that i ran with the 22 psi was at 260whp but he said it was reading roughly 30hp under. In the beginning, on the base tune, i was running 31psi and it had 340whp haha. This is all pre-WMI, so all of these numbers should increase considerably post 50/50 mix. I just got my WMI installed and running last week. He's working on a 3Bar map tune right now and then ill run some logs with the WMI. Im having a tubular manifold made up in the next few weeks with twin scroll and dual wastegate dump, but im also trying to diagnose a break down last night haha. If you want, PM me and i can keep you updated. My goal is to have everything installed and tuned by the time waterfest comes along. My overall goal is to have atleast 400awhp before 4k rpms. So in about a month or so, the new setup should be finished.

Im also running a 600HP garrett core with 2.5" piping and a 3" billet MAF.

is your head and intake mani an AEB or small port? If its not AEB then that might hinder and slow down your goals as well.

It is a small port amb head. The small port may keep me away from big peak numbers, but my impression was that it will aid in lower rpm torque.

Those are some respectable numbers from a gtx2867 especially considering the eliminator housing. I've found an spa top mount mani avaliable, but no downpipe.

Just picked up a stg 2 snow performance water meth kit today as well. Single injector.

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[jjvwg]

Dang, that's really not too bad for the gt3076. I only hit full boost on my GTRS at 4400 rpm, granted I'm at over 5000' above sea level.
Tempted to build a motor for my car and jump up to a gtx series turbo also, but money wise it makes more sense in my mind to do a 2.7 swap and stage 3 it.

[mariosa4]

a really good option is the HTA version of gt3076r from FP. i hit 15 psi at 4000 rpm and start to buit boost from 3000 rpm using a cast pagparts manifold that i think is the best option on the market with zero cracks after 8 years of use to 30 psi of boost.
i think Arnold uses his own compression wheells with great results. the thing is that you won't get bored with a 3076 sized turbo up to 500 wheell...

[FromS60toB61.8t]

It is a small port amb head. The small port may keep me away from big peak numbers, but my impression was that it will aid in lower rpm torque.

Those are some respectable numbers from a gtx2867 especially considering the eliminator housing. I've found an spa top mount mani avaliable, but no downpipe.

Just picked up a stg 2 snow performance water meth kit today as well. Single injector.

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The lower RPM torque only really pertains to the exhaust manifold. Since the OEM one is so small and a log manifold, its a much smaller volume than the big port or tubular manifolds so it will spool quicker because the air travels much quicker through it. In saying that, it loses much more top end than the big port and tubular manifolds. Log manifolds will spool you up quicker but keep you lower on the top end.

As far as the intake side, bigger is better. The bigger it is, the more air it can take on, the more fuel it can dump, the quicker it will spool. If you ran like 3" or 3.5" IC piping, you might get some lag because its just too big for the HP goals. 2.5" is at the top range of what you need for around 400awhp goal. There was a chart online somewhere where someone calculated the pipe size and at what speed you would start getting turbulence in the intercooler and with 2.5" it was something like 275 MPH.

[Mr.Avant]

The lower RPM torque only really pertains to the exhaust manifold. Since the OEM one is so small and a log manifold, its a much smaller volume than the big port or tubular manifolds so it will spool quicker because the air travels much quicker through it. In saying that, it loses much more top end than the big port and tubular manifolds. Log manifolds will spool you up quicker but keep you lower on the top end.

As far as the intake side, bigger is better. The bigger it is, the more air it can take on, the more fuel it can dump, the quicker it will spool. If you ran like 3" or 3.5" IC piping, you might get some lag because its just too big for the HP goals. 2.5" is at the top range of what you need for around 400awhp goal. There was a chart online somewhere where someone calculated the pipe size and at what speed you would start getting turbulence in the intercooler and with 2.5" it was something like 275 MPH.

Lots of good information there.

This would explain the gains the SEM intake manifold sees through most the rev range.

Also makes me think the pag parts exhaust mani is a better option over the SPA manifold, as I've read the runners on the spa manifold open up into a large collection chamber before the turbo flange. I imagine that would hurt spool characteristics more than benefit them.

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[FromS60toB61.8t]

Lots of good information there.

This would explain the gains the SEM intake manifold sees through most the rev range.

Also makes me think the pag parts exhaust mani is a better option over the SPA manifold, as I've read the runners on the spa manifold open up into a large collection chamber before the turbo flange. I imagine that would hurt spool characteristics more than benefit them.

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the main difference that ive seen between the 2, is that i havent seen any of the top mounted ones, that support the weight of the turbo from the bottom, crack yet. The log ones, which support the weight of the turbo from the top, have cracked for many people. I myself had a cast 034 mani crack after roughly 600 miles.

not to mention the difficulty of install on the log type manifolds. Granted the PAG parts one doesnt look too difficult, the others have bigger runners and such tight space that it is a nightmare to work with. it took me 5 hours to swap out my 034 mani with an oem one. 4 and a half of those hours were making 4 different wrenches so i could get the right angle for the nuts to even have a chance at getting it off. Also, if you ever need to inspect or do something with the turbo, chances are you will have to take off the manifold everytime if you go with an oem location mani vs top mounted.

To each his own though, Im just saying from recent, personal experience. I would recommend the top mount if you dont go tubular. Im getting my tubular manifold made for ~$500-$600 so it only made sense to do that vs the SPA mani. Im never even considering a bottom mount log manifold again.

[vinny.dtw]

You guys have some serious laggy setups for how small of a turbo you have... if your GTRS turbo is hitting full boost at 4400 rpm... Something is wrong. Any eliminator turbo should spool a lot earlier.

My EFR gets full boost by 3500-3600 rpm... Sure a lot of people always disagree with putting a bigger turbo on the cars, because they claim lag here and there, only to realize later on that the bigger turbo is moving more air then their smaller turbo ever will at lower rpms. Lag is just a sensation, it "feels" slower simply because you are going to go much faster later. aka linear. A well tuned 30r-35r car may seem like a dog, but put them on a dyno and compare the power at that RPM range, and im willing to bet you are not far off in power, and the area under the curve isn't very different. Turbo tech has come along way. EFR's show that you can have spool and power, much like the GTXs. etc etc.

Good luck.

[Mr.Avant]

the main difference that ive seen between the 2, is that i havent seen any of the top mounted ones, that support the weight of the turbo from the bottom, crack yet. The log ones, which support the weight of the turbo from the top, have cracked for many people. I myself had a cast 034 mani crack after roughly 600 miles.

not to mention the difficulty of install on the log type manifolds. Granted the PAG parts one doesnt look too difficult, the others have bigger runners and such tight space that it is a nightmare to work with. it took me 5 hours to swap out my 034 mani with an oem one. 4 and a half of those hours were making 4 different wrenches so i could get the right angle for the nuts to even have a chance at getting it off. Also, if you ever need to inspect or do something with the turbo, chances are you will have to take off the manifold everytime if you go with an oem location mani vs top mounted.

To each his own though, Im just saying from recent, personal experience. I would recommend the top mount if you dont go tubular. Im getting my tubular manifold made for ~$500-$600 so it only made sense to do that vs the SPA mani. Im never even considering a bottom mount log manifold again.

Vinny, I just took the time to read through your phase 3 thread. Couple questions for you.

Ever have any problem with the rai manifold/ kit in general?

Your on e85 now? Did you ever have an approximate hp number on pump?

What are you boosting too?

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[dougyfresh]

Here's what I know about it.

Aeb head
1.8l
PSi manifold
Gt3076
1000cc injectors

Tuned by motoza 23 psi peak

Didnt really begin to spool until 4000+. Peak came on shortly after. Maybe 4500. And it was quite a dog under 4000.


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What altitude are you guys at in Edmonton?

My old GT3076 (base turbo, no fancy compressor wheel or anything) on a 2.0L would hit 22psi around 3900rpm (dyno file) and would hit 28psi by about 4300rpm (dyno file). That is at sea level.

You have a 2003. You can run my old ECU with a 3076 if you want. My ECU/MAF/Injectors is still for sale. PM me.

[jjvwg]

You guys have some serious laggy setups for how small of a turbo you have... if your GTRS turbo is hitting full boost at 4400 rpm... Something is wrong. Any eliminator turbo should spool a lot earlier.

yea, not sure, only thing i can think is that its because of the thinner air at the altitudes im at. Bought the turbo brand new and have had both eurodyne and motoza tunes on the same setup. neither tuner saw any issues with the way the car was/is running but its definitely upsetting that I see all these BT setups making more boost than i am at an earlier RPM. I guess i might have to buy a spare motor and start my own build. if im waiting for full boost as long as I am I might as well be making 1.5 times the power that I currently am.

[vinny.dtw]

Vinny, I just took the time to read through your phase 3 thread. Couple questions for you.

Ever have any problem with the rai manifold/ kit in general?

Your on e85 now? Did you ever have an approximate hp number on pump?

What are you boosting too?

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RAI kit has been pretty good. Have had the manifold crack , but it has a lifetime warranty and I've become an expert at taking it off. (30 minutes tops)

I'm currently custom tuned by Bische at 30 psi on 93 octane, never went e85 after how big of a hassle it was on my sti. Not worth it if it's not something you drive often.

I should be in the realms of 350-370 whp. I was neck and neck with a friends fbo 335 on pump, beat a e90 m3 by about two cars from a 40-140 roll, dead even with a non built turbo 350z,

Dougs setup would be nice.

And elevation has everything to do with spool.


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[dougyfresh]

yea, not sure, only thing i can think is that its because of the thinner air at the altitudes im at. Bought the turbo brand new and have had both eurodyne and motoza tunes on the same setup. neither tuner saw any issues with the way the car was/is running but its definitely upsetting that I see all these BT setups making more boost than i am at an earlier RPM. I guess i might have to buy a spare motor and start my own build. if im waiting for full boost as long as I am I might as well be making 1.5 times the power that I currently am.

Where in CO are you? When I was out in CO in 2010 with my B6 the 3076 wasn't terrible in the Denver / CS / FC area. I wasn't there long enough to find the 93oct gas stations so I was running 91oct and turned the timing down (didn't help the matter).

In the mountains (Breck/CB/Pikes Peak) it was something I would not want to drive every day.

Your GTRS should be fine anywhere in the state. If I was driving a 1.8T B6 everyday out there I'd go no larger than a GTRS/GT28RS equiv set-up.

[Mr.Avant]

We do have some elevation at about 2200'.

From the sounds of it, the 3076 that I rode in spooled somewhat late. I'm thinking it was also on a conservative tune, at only 23 psi. It just felt like there was 0 torque down low.

I'm starting to put more thought into this rai efr kit. 3600rpm spool and capable of close to 30psi? Sounds up my alley. I'll also be running 93 oct + w/m

it's a shame there's only one manifold (other than TS full race) for the efr. I read a thread where Bische got the efr onto a psi manifold, but it was tight space and some custom fab involved.


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[dougyfresh]

We do have some elevation at about 2200'.

From the sounds of it, the 3076 that I rode in spooled somewhat late. I'm thinking it was also on a conservative tune, at only 23 psi. It just felt like there was 0 torque down low.

2200 shouldn't have delayed things that much. that tune needs work. I wouldn't say 23psi is conservative. That is quite a bit of boost for a 3076. The timing and load maps were probably not properly optimized.

Torque is what gets the vehicle moving in the lower RPM range. For a car driven every day that is what you "feel". When at full boost the HP is what you "feel" throwing you back in the seat.

People that drove my 2.0L could not believe how easy it was to "daily drive" with a 3076 on it because of how much torque it made down low. That was a byproduct of how the software was optimized. Most just optimize for WOT at full boost but those dyno pulls were less than 30mins of software modifying time spent out of the days of work put into the software on my car. The bulk of the work on my Ecu was part throttle. The result was amazing.

You can compile the best hardware but it is all shit if the software is not up to snuff.

[jjvwg]

Where in CO are you? When I was out in CO in 2010 with my B6 the 3076 wasn't terrible in the Denver / CS / FC area. I wasn't there long enough to find the 93oct gas stations so I was running 91oct and turned the timing down (didn't help the matter).

In the mountains (Breck/CB/Pikes Peak) it was something I would not want to drive every day.

Your GTRS should be fine anywhere in the state. If I was driving a 1.8T B6 everyday out there I'd go no larger than a GTRS/GT28RS equiv set-up.

im in denver but my parents live up in the mountains. so i drive anywhere from 5000-10k feet above sea level. car isnt my daily anymore so not worried about lag, would be nice to do some internals and a bigger turbo make more power if i could keep peak boost at the same or lower than what im currently doing. anyways, enough thread jacking from mr. avants build. keep up the good work man, motor looks awesome and cant wait to see how this pans out.

[Mr.Avant]

im in denver but my parents live up in the mountains. so i drive anywhere from 5000-10k feet above sea level. car isnt my daily anymore so not worried about lag, would be nice to do some internals and a bigger turbo make more power if i could keep peak boost at the same or lower than what im currently doing. anyways, enough thread jacking from mr. avants build. keep up the good work man, motor looks awesome and cant wait to see how this pans out.

Not thread jacking at all! Made this to help gather as much Intel as I can. I want to do it right the first time, learn from others mistakes. Lots to consider at this point still. Was thinking of starting to drop in some mods that can be run on the current stg 1+ tune. This way I can make sure everything's cool (ie: fuel pump, intercooler). Less to worry about later if I run into problems after the swap, if it was done and operating properly first. I'll throw up some more pictures here soon.

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[vinny.dtw]

Not thread jacking at all! Made this to help gather as much Intel as I can. I want to do it right the first time, learn from others mistakes. Lots to consider at this point still. Was thinking of starting to drop in some mods that can be run on the current stg 1+ tune. This way I can make sure everything's cool (ie: fuel pump, intercooler). Less to worry about later if I run into problems after the swap, if it was done and operating properly first. I'll throw up some more pictures here soon.

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Intercooler won't transfer over since your manifold will place the turbo in a different position.

Piping is my worst nightmare. Lol

But read all the past build threads. Great resources


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[Mr.Avant]

Intercooler won't transfer over since your manifold will place the turbo in a different position.

Piping is my worst nightmare. Lol

But read all the past build threads. Great resources


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Thanks man. I realize the piping at the turbo will differ. Don't say it's a nightmare! Lol.

Just traded some messages with pag parts. They are able to offer both the gtx 2867 and the efr 6758 with the ss vband manifold. Sounds like the efr was recommended for better bottom end response over the gtx, but both are good options. There was mention that the lower compression of this engine might hurt the low end torque. I hope the benefits of timing/higher boost levels will outweigh the cons of low compression.

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[vwdann0]

Relak skirts. They did a small pre-order production run last spring and I was able to grab a set.

Edit:
http://www.relakhq.com/Side-Skirts-FRP-SSB6B7FRP.htm

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Thank

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[FromS60toB61.8t]

Not sure if you saw what happened to my car but ill be parting out the turbo setup if you need any thing still. Fuel pump, injectors, turbo, tial dv and wg's, etc. Pm me if you need anything. What happened to my car

GL on your setup!