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  1. #1
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Power Steering Delete?

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    Alright.

    So when I was replacing the old power steering pump on my '96, the hole on the block where the pump bracket sits was so corroded and rusty that it literally fell apart.

    Because of that, the whole bracket wobbles slightly causing the serpentine belt to come off upon starting the car.

    I'm wondering if there is a way, or a kit that can delete that whole pulley/pump, relocate the coil pack, and provides a shorter serpentine belt. Would I have to take out the whole power rack? Can I just take out the pump and be fine? It was going fine until the bearing seized in the old pump. I ran without p/s for more than two months. I would've run it like that forever had I not had the urge to sell the car. I'm not going to sell it now, but make it into a thrasher, or trail car.

    Just wondering if any of that is possible. FYI, its a '96 with the 2.8.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings Nollywood's Avatar
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    Anything's possible. You can certainly lose the pump and bracket, and relocate the coilpacks. You'll have to work out a belt solution as you go along. I doubt anyone here would have the answer to a belt length and routing method, a 1.8T is most likely to be a track car with a PAS delete.

    You wouldn't have to pull the rack, though you'll need to get a blanking plug / bolt to replace the high pressure line banjo. I have no idea how long the rack would last in this state. Probably forever.

    Another option is to run a combined VW Passat B6 electric power steering pump with an integral reservoir. At least you could mount it anywhere. You'll just need to route the lines differently.
    2007 Audi RS4 Avant B7 - Misano Red Pearl Effect
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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings b5a4erik's Avatar
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    Apr 22 2014
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    Aptos, CA

    Interested.
    1999 A4 FWD AEB 1.8T ~ Atlas

  4. #4
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by b5a4erik View Post
    Interested.
    I wish there were more replies... :(

    My days of Googling haven't pulled up anything useful.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
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    Jun 30 2008
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    Erie, Pennsylvania

    You can't make with the JB-Weld (or something) to get this thing to sit still? Maybe build a bracket from another nearby bolt or some-such? I'm not looking at it, but I feel like that's the easier option here.
    ^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
    2001 Laser Red A4 1.8TQM, 5-Speed Swapped, 4.11 Final Drive, APR 93, 2.5" Exhaust, ST Coilovers, 034 RSB, A8 Brakes Front & Rear
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    2000 Satin Silver Passat 1.8T FWD Wagon, Slippy Tiptronic, 15" Hubcaps
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  6. #6
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by walky_talky20 View Post
    You can't make with the JB-Weld (or something) to get this thing to sit still? Maybe build a bracket from another nearby bolt or some-such? I'm not looking at it, but I feel like that's the easier option here.
    Everything I've tried has failed... Even when degreAsher was used on the engine.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings GrapeBandit's Avatar
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    Dec 13 2010
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    FL

    Quote Originally Posted by b5a4erik View Post
    Interested.
    besides having OP's problem, why would anyone want to do this
    r.i.p.CASABLANCA B5 1.8t
    r.i.p.BRILLIANT YELLOW B5 30V

    PCV? Just dump it on the ground!

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings nynoah's Avatar
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    01.5 A4 avant Past cars: 95 S6, 85 Golf II VR6, 2 sciroccos, 92 Corrado VR6, 86 Euro BMW 535 Alpina
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    Perhaps its best to get some used parts. Deleting safety features is never a good idea. Esp items like steering control.
    2001.5 black on black avant 5spd, EFR 6758, Pag Parts band manifold, Vibrant GESI High flow CAT, 2.0L 06A, IE intake manifold, built AEB head, 1000cc Boosted Euro Tune, bosch 044, Ringer Racing stage 3 hybrid Organic/Cerametalic 240mm clutch, S4 interior upgrade, full S4 brakes front and rear with lines, 17in OZ Racing Ultraleggera, 034 HD suspension arms, Stern soft mounts, mirimoto bixenon etc. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...s-Build-thread

  9. #9
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by nynoah View Post
    Perhaps its best to get some used parts. Deleting safety features is never a good idea. Esp items like steering control.
    Unsafe to drive it in its current condition though... And theres no "safe" way to fix it. Cast iron bracket, cast iron block, no welding. Even when degrease the JB weld isn't holding.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings b5a4erik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrapeBandit View Post
    besides having OP's problem, why would anyone want to do this
    I enjoy feeling the weight of the car, the road more.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Plus my rack is leaking, real.
    1999 A4 FWD AEB 1.8T ~ Atlas

  11. #11
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    I got everything taken off, haven't followed the lines from the pump to the rack yet, but I got the pump and bracket off.

    I plan on having a friend make me a custom little bracket for the coil packs and mounting them almost exactly where they were before I took the pump out.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings b5a4erik's Avatar
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    Apr 22 2014
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    Good luck man.
    1999 A4 FWD AEB 1.8T ~ Atlas

  13. #13
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Anyone have an idea for finding out what new belt size I would need? Any specs online or methods to figure it out? Can't find anything online.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings Nollywood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by winnesota218 View Post
    Anyone have an idea for finding out what new belt size I would need? Any specs online or methods to figure it out? Can't find anything online.
    This is something you'll have to work out as you go along.

    The reason being, as I said before, the 1.8T is more likely to have a PAS delete. On the off chance you did find a 2.8 online with a PAS delete, I doubt the belt spec would be any good to you. Very seldom are two conversions the same. Belt routing, custom tensioners, alternator bracket and pulley size make all the difference.

    The cast iron 2.8 V6 is a heavy lump up front, I wouldn't want to daily this without PAS, even on base model 195/65x15 tyres. It'll still be insanely heavy to steer. A BT / BAT 1.8T with PAS deleted wouldn't be much lighter, but at least it'll be fun to drive, and fast enough to take your mind off the fact you've lost steering assistance.

    I would strongly consider going with a hydro-electric PAS pump, or as Walky said, look into custom a custom bracket setup to mount the pump elsewhere. The pump doesn't have to sit in the V, it could be mounted at the lower left of the block, like it is on the 2.5 V6 TDI.
    Last edited by Nollywood; 05-26-2016 at 04:26 PM.
    2007 Audi RS4 Avant B7 - Misano Red Pearl Effect
    2007 Audi RS4 Saloon B7 - Sprint Blue
    2013 SEAT Exeo ST - Project 3R9 400-R
    2010 SEAT Exeo ST - Project 3R9 420-S
    1986 Type 85 Audi 90 quattro

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