Changing rear brakes without vagcom

[LaCross]

For those who have changed the rear brakes without a vagcom, how did you do it? Which pins did you jump if you used a battery?

[kdfwagen]

Download Christa to your phone. Worked great for me

[kdfwagen]

Carista* and buy the dongle

[Audibot]

OP, there is a database somewhere you can use to search for VCDS users as well, in case you can find one near you. Can't tell where in the US you are, but I'm sure there is a user somewhere within an hour of you.

[Quidproquo]

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/677103-Rear-Brake-Pad-DIY-Any-links-info?p=11593773&viewfull=1#post11593773

[infinkc]

OP, there is a database somewhere you can use to search for VCDS users as well, in case you can find one near you. Can't tell where in the US you are, but I'm sure there is a user somewhere within an hour of you.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...l-locator-map?

[LaCross]

I jumped the motor with a 12v battery.

Ebrake still works, no codes

[LaCross]

Actually have a bit of a weird issue

Whenever I press the brakes around 50%, the abs kicks on and the pedal sinks a bit. Anybody have an idea what this could be?

[dls11b8]

Download Christa to your phone. Worked great for me

How did you utilize your carista to do the rear brakes? I don't see any function in the app regarding parking brake...

[mr shickadance]

Actually have a bit of a weird issue

Whenever I press the brakes around 50%, the abs kicks on and the pedal sinks a bit. Anybody have an idea what this could be?

this sounds like a more serious situation, something is not right, if the ABS kicks on there are a few likely situations

1) ABS functioning as normal, and you need to re-think your braking habits, pedal should feel like it's vibrating, and sinking is normal. (if you never used your ABS before, you should find a snowy parking lot if you can and mess with it one day, it's important to know what proper abs braking should feel like because that initial vibration or pulse from the brakes are foriegn at first)

2) ABS is malfunctioning, if you really are braking at 50% and the ABS is going off, there could be a sender that is malfunctioning, could also be a seized caliper piston, could also be a few things, if you are convinced you are braking correctly, you should bring it to a trust shop and have them poke around.


3) air in the lines, this shouldn't trigger the ABS, but it could cause your pedal to sink, again, if the ABS goes off, a light should come on your dash, so if that didn't happen, then maybe this is the route.

[S4'ed]

Pull the ABS wheel speed sensors and clean off any metallic particles that stick to the magnetized tip.

[TheNiloJunior]

Just did the rear brakes on my Q5 which has the same issue. I used the method shown on the youtube video below. No batteries or anything like that needed. Just unscrew/turn a few torx screws and only adds about 5 minutes to the replacement time. My ebrake works fine after install (cycled it maybe 2-3 times to 'reset' it).

https://youtu.be/xLPdV1k14D4




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[dls11b8]

Just did the rear brakes on my Q5 which has the same issue. I used the method shown on the youtube video below. No batteries or anything like that needed. Just unscrew/turn a few torx screws and only adds about 5 minutes to the replacement time. My ebrake works fine after install (cycled it maybe 2-3 times to 'reset' it).

https://youtu.be/xLPdV1k14D4




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Brilliant.. I was wondering if this method was possible... But my car is my dd and only option to get to work, so I'd rather know someone else did it successfully before I start unbolting stuff and screwing around. .

[TheNiloJunior]

Brilliant.. I was wondering if this method was possible... But my car is my dd and only option to get to work, so I'd rather know someone else did it successfully before I start unbolting stuff and screwing around. .

I felt exactly the same way as I couldn't find a definitive conclusion online. I figured to try this way because I would surely zap myself hooking a battery to it. I can at least confirm this worked on the Q5 and I intend on doing my S4 brakes the same way.

One thing to remember is that you still have to compress the piston after rotating the center torx screw all the way clockwise. A regular C clamp is all you need. Turning the screw alone won't compress it. I did not disconnect my car battery, just unplugged the ebrake motor before opening it. Only 2 screws to open the motor housing. Hope this helps!

[b8s4me]

I felt exactly the same way as I couldn't find a definitive conclusion online. I figured to try this way because I would surely zap myself hooking a battery to it. I can at least confirm this worked on the Q5 and I intend on doing my S4 brakes the same way.

One thing to remember is that you still have to compress the piston after rotating the center torx screw all the way clockwise. A regular C clamp is all you need. Turning the screw alone won't compress it. I did not disconnect my car battery, just unplugged the ebrake motor before opening it. Only 2 screws to open the motor housing. Hope this helps!

I watched the video but still am not understanding. Once the epb is removed, you just compress the piston like any other car, or do you need to use a T40? And it's definitely clockwise? Sorry for the many questions, I plan on doing this soon and don't wanna mess it up!

[LaCross]

Apparently you're also not supposed to have all 4 calipers compressed at the same time, it's possible I overflowed the resprvoir

[s42014DSG]

Actually have a bit of a weird issue

Whenever I press the brakes around 50%, the abs kicks on and the pedal sinks a bit. Anybody have an idea what this could be?

I had exactly this issue after someone jumped the motor to do my rear brakes. It's improved a little bit not gone away.

[s42014DSG]

this sounds like a more serious situation, something is not right, if the ABS kicks on there are a few likely situations

1) ABS functioning as normal, and you need to re-think your braking habits, pedal should feel like it's vibrating, and sinking is normal. (if you never used your ABS before, you should find a snowy parking lot if you can and mess with it one day, it's important to know what proper abs braking should feel like because that initial vibration or pulse from the brakes are foriegn at first)

2) ABS is malfunctioning, if you really are braking at 50% and the ABS is going off, there could be a sender that is malfunctioning, could also be a seized caliper piston, could also be a few things, if you are convinced you are braking correctly, you should bring it to a trust shop and have them poke around.


3) air in the lines, this shouldn't trigger the ABS, but it could cause your pedal to sink, again, if the ABS goes off, a light should come on your dash, so if that didn't happen, then maybe this is the route.

I had Audi reset the ebrake and check for air. Neither was broken. Also had then flush the ABS system which the original brake guys failed to do. Wondering what else it could be. Is the other person having issue using non-stock pads? I'm using HPS 5.0 and thought maybe the issue was their compound and its effects on ABS.

[SteveYem]

Just did the rear brakes on my Q5 which has the same issue. I used the method shown on the youtube video below. No batteries or anything like that needed. Just unscrew/turn a few torx screws and only adds about 5 minutes to the replacement time. My ebrake works fine after install (cycled it maybe 2-3 times to 'reset' it).

https://youtu.be/xLPdV1k14D4




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used VCDS (Vag com) to disable the rear parking brake when I did mine, but the whole time I was working on it I was looking at that plastic EPB motor housing thinking "can't I just take this damn thing off?" This answers that question. Good stuff!

[LaCross]

I'm also running hawk 5.0s. Maybe they're to blame?

[TheNiloJunior]

I watched the video but still am not understanding. Once the epb is removed, you just compress the piston like any other car, or do you need to use a T40? And it's definitely clockwise? Sorry for the many questions, I plan on doing this soon and don't wanna mess it up!

Sorry for the late reply. Once you unscrew the two (T30?) screws and open up the motor, first turn the T40 torx clockwise (definitely clockwise) all the way until it stops. After you do that, then you can compress the piston. It shouldn't take any effort at all compressing the piston after turning the torx, so that would probably let you know if you turned the right way.

I used VCDS (Vag com) to disable the rear parking brake when I did mine, but the whole time I was working on it I was looking at that plastic EPB motor housing thinking "can't I just take this damn thing off?" This answers that question. Good stuff!

Glad it helped!

I'm also running hawk 5.0s. Maybe they're to blame?

I know they're not the same compound, but I used the Hawk Ceramics on this replacement and had used them prior on my old A4 with no fault.

[b8s4me]

Sorry for the late reply. Once you unscrew the two (T30?) screws and open up the motor, first turn the T40 torx clockwise (definitely clockwise) all the way until it stops. After you do that, then you can compress the piston. It shouldn't take any effort at all compressing the piston after turning the torx, so that would probably let you know if you turned the right way.

Once the caliper is compressed, brake pads installed, do you need to turn the T40 counter-clockwise? If so, how much? Til you cant turn it anymore? Sorry for the million questions, this is something I REALLY don't want to mess up

[S4'ed]

After the caliper (with new pads) is re-installed on the disc. press the brake pedal a few times, then turn the T40 clockwise, till it starts to get a little snug, then stop.
Do the same on the other rear wheel.
Then cycle the electric parking brake, ON and OFF a few times.

[LaCross]

I don't see any brake fluid level indicator, can anybody take a picture of how much brake fluid is "full"

[TheNiloJunior]

Once the caliper is compressed, brake pads installed, do you need to turn the T40 counter-clockwise? If so, how much? Til you cant turn it anymore? Sorry for the million questions, this is something I REALLY don't want to mess up

I actually did not turn the T40 back (counterclockwise) after installing the pads - I just left the motor in the compressed position. When the brake was installed and car back on the ground, I turned on ignition and pumped the brakes a few times to get the pedal feel back to normal. Then I activated the ebrake - The first time the motor took considerably longer to wind (the humming noise lasted about 3 times as long) which I'm assuming is due to the motor screw having to travel farther from the completely compressed position. The second time appeared right back to normal and I just engaged a couple more times to be sure. S4'ed opted to turn the T40 back and looks like that worked for him too.

Also regarding LaCross' statement on not having all 4 pistons compressed at the same time - After doing the pad and rotor install on each wheel I would turn the ignition and pump the brakes, roll a few feet back and forth, then go on to the next wheel. I had done it this way by chance as I wanted to make sure things 'felt' right after each install instead of doing all 4 and not know which corner I messed up. I'm glad I didn't do all wheels at once then pump the brakes as I didn't know that overflow would have been an issue.

[LaCross]

Had my abs kick in again. This time I know my tires weren't slipping.

It's only happened once, but I press the brakes moderately ( not hard enough to cause new summer tires to slip) and the abs kicked on a little