2009 A4 2.0T to 2013 engine swap

[John Sharif]

My engine has many issues - no boost from turbo, oil consumption from bad pistons/rings, and timing off. I'm thinking swapping a 2013 engine might be the best solution. This way I don't have to worry about the oil consumption issue on the swapped engine. Can anyone who has done this please chime in? I've seen a lot of theoretical discussion, but I'd like to hear of any firsthand experiences.

[treginginco]

First off ---- aren't the transmissions completely different? 6spd vs 8spd

[John Sharif]

I appreciate your comment, but I'm looking for firsthand knowledge if possible. It looks like there are a few parts that need to be swapped from the old engine like the fuel injectors. It would be great to get a list of these items...

[Slick_B8]

Umm lol

[dropshadow]

Umm lol

Subscribed.

[thrill23]

First off ---- aren't the transmissions completely different? 6spd vs 8spd

Valid point

[dbv2]

If you're going through all this trouble of swapping motors, I'd just suggest rebuilding your current motor and installing better internals. Less labour, less time, less headache, less wiring, less troubles in the future knowing you changed your internals. You're wasting your time doing the 8.5 swap.

[van462]

If you're going through all this trouble of swapping motors, I'd just suggest rebuilding your current motor and installing better internals. Less labour, less time, less headache, less wiring, less troubles in the future knowing you changed your internals. You're wasting your time doing the 8.5 swap.

Not the OP but, I am looking into doing a swap vs a rebuild as well for several reasons. In order to be somewhat timely I would want to have as many parts on hand prior to starting as I could. I fear getting into the block to find the cylinder walls scored and now having to replace the block. Others have found low mile post 2012 engines for around $1500. Everything I have researched indicates all that needs to be moved over are the intake manifold, wiring harness, the accessories bracket (due to power steering change). Add in the additional tooling and stand cost for going into a motor. The used motor will also likely have newer accessories that you upgrade for free like the head,water pump, balance shafts, timing chain, cam bridge, and oil pump. Lastly a motor out and in can be done in a day at most two. Plus you can strip spare parts to recover investment or scrap metal them.

[dbv2]

Not the OP but, I am looking into doing a swap vs a rebuild as well for several reasons. In order to be somewhat timely I would want to have as many parts on hand prior to starting as I could. I fear getting into the block to find the cylinder walls scored and now having to replace the block. Others have found low mile post 2012 engines for around $1500. Everything I have researched indicates all that needs to be moved over are the intake manifold, wiring harness, the accessories bracket (due to power steering change). Add in the additional tooling and stand cost for going into a motor. The used motor will also likely have newer accessories that you upgrade for free like the head,water pump, balance shafts, timing chain, cam bridge, and oil pump. Lastly a motor out and in can be done in a day at most two. Plus you can strip spare parts to recover investment or scrap metal them.

It's just a risk anyone would take hoping the motor thats sitting on the shops floor actually has proper compression across all 4, as well as no internal damage. It's just a risk these days I'm not willing to take, rather since the car seems as if its already not running, take the time to rebuild using proper parts and upgrade whats needed. His car isn't running by the looks of his first post, a little while longer to get things rebuilt and up to spec wouldn't hurt him in the long run vs getting an unknown motor and taking the chance that it doesn't just blow on him 6 months down the road. Been there, it sucks..

[John Sharif]

After weighing the options, I've decided to go with a 2013 engine. I'll update this post in a couple weeks once the engine is installed. There are a few items that will be swapped from the earlier engine, and there are some others like the alternator that we'll need to use from the newer version. I might do a high flow catalytic converter while we're at it, since the oil consumption issue caused the old cat to fail.

[b6Hate4]

I bet the body plugs are the same. All fueling parts + harness and you would probably be good to go. Audi builds their cars like lego's. All easier to swap motors around than the average person would expect.

[Zach L]

The only time transmission would matter is if you were changing from 4-cylinder to 6-cylinder. All 4-cylinder transmission bell housings are the same and will bolt up to most other 4-cylinder VW/Audi engines.

The hardware will not be the issue here... it will no doubt just bolt in. It's the ECU and engine wiring harness that you're much more likely to have issues with and I would spend some major time investigating. The last thing you want to be doing is swapping out an engine harness.

The newer cars use an entire different ECU made by a different company. There is a good chance of differences in the engine sensors used and the wiring to those sensors. If you encounter such differences, your best bet will be to swap the sensors any sensors from your previous engine onto the new longblock. Your goal here is basically to fool your current ECU into thinking your previous engine is still in your car.

EDIT:
Just checked and it's only non-US cars that have the newer Simos ECU. The US cars use the same Bosch MED17 ECU for both B8 and B8.5. This should actually be a pretty easy swap. Good luck!

[Zach L]

It's just a risk anyone would take hoping the motor thats sitting on the shops floor actually has proper compression across all 4, as well as no internal damage. It's just a risk these days I'm not willing to take, rather since the car seems as if its already not running, take the time to rebuild using proper parts and upgrade whats needed. His car isn't running by the looks of his first post, a little while longer to get things rebuilt and up to spec wouldn't hurt him in the long run vs getting an unknown motor and taking the chance that it doesn't just blow on him 6 months down the road. Been there, it sucks..

A factory built and sealed engine is always preferable to a rebuilt engine, no matter how good the rebuild is. Rebuilt engines ALWAYS have more problems. I've pulled engines from low mileage junk yard cars and installed them, while knowing friends/family that have had things rebuilt. I'd take an 80k miles factory sealed engine over a 40k mile rebuilt one.

[John Sharif]

So the 2013 engine swap is complete. It's nice to have the car back on the road...and no smoke from the tail pipes for the first time in a long while. I did a HFC too. Drives better than ever. Added bonus: it doesn't sound like a diesel anymore.

[o1turbo30v]

So the 2013 engine swap is complete. It's nice to have the car back on the road...and no smoke from the tail pipes for the first time in a long while. I did a HFC too. Drives better than ever. Added bonus: it doesn't sound like a diesel anymore.

Nice job man! What was your total cost? And was there anything you learned that would be helpful to anyone else who might be considering it? Because I agree zachL that I would rather have a used factory motor than a rebuilt one.

[Alex1188]

So the 2013 engine swap is complete. It's nice to have the car back on the road...and no smoke from the tail pipes for the first time in a long while. I did a HFC too. Drives better than ever. Added bonus: it doesn't sound like a diesel anymore.

I'm assuming this was a 2013 non E-85 complaint motor that was swapped. Should have been plug and play if so.

[John Sharif]

I paid a shop to do it. $3100 for the 2013 engine, turbo, and alternator. $400 shipped for the 034 HFC. $2500 labor, belts, plugs, fluids, and new starter. Wasn't cheap, but it seemed like the best solution for me.

[ducati]

John any photos of the swap.$6000 is lot of money to pump into a 2009.I would personally just got rid of it and save for 2012-13.

[Zach L]

The engine can be had for $2500 (~30-40k miles) and a swap would be fairly simple. No custom work required. It literally bolts and plugs in. Certainly a viable option if I'm in the same boat as the OP.

[speedsterman]

Hey there. What were the engine codes of the engines you swapped ? I have a 2010 with a trashed engine. valves stuck in pistons and that sort of thing. Looking at a swap versus rebuild. I would appreciate any advise that anyone could give. Thanks.

[kt883]

Theres a shop local to me that I saw a post for and recommended a friend to go to and they did an engine swap for him. The post said they did a 2009 to 2014 engine. They also throw in rebuilt engines that they fix up the weak points on.

Get some advice from them. They are called TSH auto, search on here for the thread


(I'm not affiliated with these guys at all and I've never even been to the shop)


TSH Auto Inc


Address: 195 Oakdale Rd, North York

Phone: (416) 533-0909

[a_brooks86]

Hey there. What were the engine codes of the engines you swapped ? I have a 2010 with a trashed engine. valves stuck in pistons and that sort of thing. Looking at a swap versus rebuild. I would appreciate any advise that anyone could give. Thanks.

I have a 2009 (engine code CAEB) and currently in the process of swapping in an engine from a 2013 (engine code CPMA). Ordered mine through ebay from a company called LKQ. You'll see a handful of guys on here that ordered them from the same place. I paid around $2300 for it, if I remember right, and it only has 45xxx miles. Similar to what Zach L mentioned. If you're planning on doing it yourself, it might be the best option for sourcing an engine. If you're not doing it yourself, a route like the one that John Sharif or kt883 mentioned might be the best option.

[nthreasher]

I have a 2009 (engine code CAEB) and currently in the process of swapping in an engine from a 2013 (engine code CPMA). Ordered mine through ebay from a company called LKQ. You'll see a handful of guys on here that ordered them from the same place. I paid around $2300 for it, if I remember right, and it only has 45xxx miles. Similar to what Zach L mentioned. If you're planning on doing it yourself, it might be the best option for sourcing an engine. If you're not doing it yourself, a route like the one that John Sharif or kt883 mentioned might be the best option.

thanks for this! can I ask if it was listed around $2300 or if they move on the price? All the engines I see listed (2012 on) are usually more than $3000

my CAEB has the oil consumption issue and AoA etc aren't planning on helping... so if it is relatively plug and play then the swap would be great

[a_brooks86]

thanks for this! can I ask if it was listed around $2300 or if they move on the price? All the engines I see listed (2012 on) are usually more than $3000

my CAEB has the oil consumption issue and AoA etc aren't planning on helping... so if it is relatively plug and play then the swap would be great

This was mine. There are similar ones for the same price.




Here, check these out. When searching, make sure the seller is LKQ. There are many like this, but here are a few.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-Audi-A4...tZQd-n&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-Audi-A4...hZYn~5&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-Audi-A4...VZU2mF&vxp=mtr

[nthreasher]

This was mine. There are similar ones for the same price.

Here, check these out. When searching, make sure the seller is LKQ. There are many like this, but here are a few.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-Audi-A4...tZQd-n&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-Audi-A4...hZYn~5&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-Audi-A4...VZU2mF&vxp=mtr

thanks! Realized my error... I was searching for compatible with 2009 , which would only bring up the CAEB engines, this is much better!

[Frinkferta]

I have a 2009 (engine code CAEB) and currently in the process of swapping in an engine from a 2013 (engine code CPMA). Ordered mine through ebay from a company called LKQ. You'll see a handful of guys on here that ordered them from the same place. I paid around $2300 for it, if I remember right, and it only has 45xxx miles. Similar to what Zach L mentioned. If you're planning on doing it yourself, it might be the best option for sourcing an engine. If you're not doing it yourself, a route like the one that John Sharif or kt883 mentioned might be the best option.

Did you guys use the 2013 intake manifold? Or swap the plastic one back on? I'm thinking E85 compatible...

[a_brooks86]

Did you guys use the 2013 intake manifold? Or swap the plastic one back on? I'm thinking E85 compatible...

We're just swapping over the plastic manifold. I don't want to have to deal with all of the extra work that would go into bringing over the E85 compatibility. It would be neat to do though.

[a_brooks86]

thanks! Realized my error... I was searching for compatible with 2009 , which would only bring up the CAEB engines, this is much better!

Ah, no problem. When I first started looking for a replacement engine, I did the same thing. It wasn't until I heard about Lettuce's build thread and went through it that I realized how easy it was to make this "incompatible" engine work like a charm.

[nthreasher]

For high mileage cars... is it worth swapping in a lower mileage transmission too? is there a point where the 'sealed for life' transmission cant have the fluid drained and filled and its easier just to get a lower mileage one and bolt it in while everything is out?

[twixinthemix]

is there a point where the 'sealed for life' transmission cant have the fluid drained and filled and its easier just to get a lower mileage one and bolt it in while everything is out?

Yeah there is a thread confirming the ZF8 transmission fluid should be changed around 60k

[Danego10]

I paid a shop to do it. $3100 for the 2013 engine, turbo, and alternator. $400 shipped for the 034 HFC. $2500 labor, belts, plugs, fluids, and new starter. Wasn't cheap, but it seemed like the best solution for me.

Hey so I am looking at putting a 2013 engine in my 2011, do I need to put the 2013 alternator in as well or will my current one do the job? If so what else do you suggest switching out?

[Smac770]

You'll need to swap the accessory bracket over since the 2013 has no power steering pump. I'd stick to the alternator from your original engine. Maybe B8.0 J533 would use the same protocol with the Valeo VR as with the Bosch VR, maybe not. If you know enough to know it'll work, or if you like walking the edge, try it out and find out. You'll also need to carry over your crank position (engine speed) sensor; the B8.5 uses a different variation from the B8.0.

[Redline808]

I have a 2009 A4 with a bad 2.0t

I am trying to find out if I can swap in a 2014 2.0t but can't seem to find any information. Does anyone know?

Thanks!

[Smac770]

There's plenty of information on swapping a B8.5 CAE or CPM into a B8.0. forum search for CAEB swap

[Redline808]

There's plenty of information on swapping a B8.5 CAE or CPM into a B8.0. forum search for CAEB swap

Okay, I'll search CAEB swap. Thanks. Numerous google searches only turned up this thread....

[mc_hotmail]

the 2013 has no power steering pump.

Good to know. That means there is a power steering pump delete option for B8.0. Right? @Smac770

[Smac770]

I know I've typed it many times, that's why I know there's plenty on the B8.5 > B8.0 swap. Between the B8 A4, B8 A5, B8 Q5 forums here and at audiworld.

If you're starting with a B8.0 CAE:
and swapping in a B8.0 CAE, then the only thing you have to consider is the flexplate/flywheel. Does it already have the one you have, or do you need to swap your old one over.

and swapping in a B8.5 CAE, then there's the above concern, and you also have to swap over your 2-pin engine speed sensor as well as your accessory bracket so you still have a place to mount the power steering pump.

and swapping in a B8.5 CPM, then there's the above concerns, and then you also have to swap over your injectors and intake manifold.

Or such; typing this off the top of my head.