MAF sensor replacement requires ADAPTATIONS? - Need to know ASAP

[paazan]

Hi guys,

Hope you guys going good and I need some help here.

Background:
I have an Audi A4 2003 1.8T Quattro.
Quite a while ago the check engine light came on, while it's been running OK though. Recently it got worse and running weird.
Long story short, I checked the codes turned out to be multi-misfire, P030,1,2,3,4 and P0171-System too lean.
I changed spark plugs and ignition coils. I wanted to change the MAF sensor but couldn't only because there's this plug had its clip damaged and glued permanently.
Worrying about having other issues because the car is old and has high mileage, I decided to drop it to an auto shop, and doesn't expect to spend too much to have it fix while I know the cause already and quite confident about it.
After diagnosis, I was told that multiple codes were found - even more than what I found - and they are all pointing to the MAF - yeah I knew it! - however I got a quote of well over $500, including ADAPTATIONS, which requires two hours labor to get into the computer.
Because I planed to do it by myself at first, I kinda know how much work it needs and I really don't think MAF replacement would take more than 20 minutes, if not less, but I don't know any thing about this "adaptations"

Now Questions:
1, for MAF sensor replacement, is this ADAPTATIONS step necessary or required in order all the codes, including the ones I didn't know, to be erased and the new installed sensor to work properly? And is it true that it takes two hours?

2, for a new MAF sensor, if I can get one for $30 but is Chinese aftermarket which get very good review though, is it still worthy to spend $200 for a Bosch? I know it's better but my car has over 150K.

I still have my car in the shop and need to decide whether to have them work on it and pay over $500, or take it somewhere else, or have it done by myself. So really need someone give me some idea ASAP.

Thank a lot lot lot in advance.

[diagnosticator]

The ECU will automatically perform adaptations while driving the car after the MAF meter is replaced.

Spend the extra money for a Bosch MAF meter.

[paazan]

Thanks a lot.

There's another thing I forgot to mention: the plug.

So if the plug has its clip damaged and was glued, how am I going to unplug it without damaging it further, or is it hard to replace the whole thing?

I meant, this guy:

[diagnosticator]

You would have to pick away the glue, glue doesn't stick to plastic very well, then use a small flat blade screw driver to lift the latching tang in the connector, while pushing the connector away from the mating side. It will help a lot to press the connectors together to unload the latching tang while lifting the tang, then push the connectors apart. The locking tang is inside the connector aligned with the "PBT" letters shown on the connector above. NOT where the yellow arrow is pointing. It is not hard to replace the damaged connectors, you have to carefully remove the terminals from the old connectors using the correct terminal release tool, and some insight how the terminals are retained in the connectors to avoid damaging the terminals while removing, then insert the terminals into the new connector. Some connectors have a secondary retaining plate that is moved sideways in the slot to release the terminals, but the terminals have a retaining tang that must be pressed to allow the terminals to come out of the housing, with the right terminal release tool inserted into the connector terminal position, pull firmly to remove the terminal from the housing. If the tang on the terminal is bent bend it back in place so that the tang will hold the terminal into the new connector housing properly, and then slide the purple secondary retainer plate back into position.

[paazan]

Thank you again.

Just have it back.
And they disconnected the plug for me already.
Very interesting, the car is running so good now with the MAF disconnected.
And it raises another question for now: is it OK to drive without the MAF? What kind of potential damage it might cause if I drive it like this for a while until my new MAF sensor arrives

[eljay]

Thank you again.

Just have it back.
And they disconnected the plug for me already.
Very interesting, the car is running so good now with the MAF disconnected.
And it raises another question for now: is it OK to drive without the MAF? What kind of potential damage it might cause if I drive it like this for a while until my new MAF sensor arrives

You're in good hands with diagnosticator here, but I saw the post, so I thought I would just add that this should confirm that your MAF was indeed bad if the car runs better without it. I believe that if you disconnect the MAF, the ECM drops to a safe default map and runs the car a bit on the rich side to keep things safe. It's probably OK to drive home with it, but I wouldn't just run it like that for a while. Too many things depend on proper A/F ratio in our turbo cars.

Now, the experts can correct me.

[paazan]

Thanks for the input.

It makes sense to me for "anything must be there for a reason".
But it is the only daily commuting vehicle I have and the new part won't be here till next week.

Thanks a lot.

[imnuts]

There are a lot of safeties in the tuning, but I wouldn't recommend going a week without the MAF. If you have to drive it, probably best to stay out of boost until the MAF is replaced.

Sent from my DROID Turbo 2

[TabulaRasa]

I recently had some MAF issues myself and bought a genuine Bosch MAF...

But just out of curiosity, has anybody had good luck with those $18.50 MAF sensors on Ebay? :D

[paazan]

OK.

In fact. I'm trying one of those $18 ones. Definitely agree Bosch would be better, but for this price I'm just trying it out. If it doesn't work will get a more expensive one.

Have it installed today afterwork. Drove all the way home and it ran so much better.

I'd like to give more details but before I do that I want to make sure the problem is solved that way I can tell more about my experience to help others.

For now the check engine light is still on. Some says it might take up to 100 miles to have the computer reset. I'm wondering if I should just have it erased. Would that be of any bad?

[old guy]

Once you reset the ECM your fuel trims will start from zero and adjust to the new conditions over a period of 10 to 15 minutes. It should take care of your CEL. If it comes back then you will have to look a little deeper to see what's causing the CEL.

[paazan]

Thanks.

I do not know how to do that.

I was actually talking about going to AutoZone and let them erase the codes for me.

Would any of these different procedures cause problem or they all work the same?

[old guy]

You can disconnect the battery for around 15 minutes, you can go to Autozone and have them reset all codes, you can use a $5 TorquePro app with your Android phone or you can use the free VCDS software with an OBD2 cable. It really doesn't matter how you do it.

Or you can just drive the car and let the ECM adapt the fuel trims on its own, it just takes slightly longer.

[imnuts]

you can go to Autozone and have them reset all codes

Prior to getting my Bluetooth OBDII adapter for Torque, or a battery for our laptop so I could use VCDS, I went to PepBoys. They read the codes for free, but the tech said that they aren't allowed to clear them unless the car was worked on in the shop. I've heard that the other stores are similar, at least around here, so you're mileage may vary with that method.

Sent from my DROID Turbo 2

[paazan]

OK I did it.

Disconnected the battery waited 20 mins.

Guess what? CEL off, and ESP light came on. What now? Does that mean this MAF sensor has problem?

[paazan]

Wait.....it went off....after driving it a little bit. Lol.

You guys are awesome! All good now!

Thanks for all the suggestions.

[OneSlowA4]

Yeah esp light comes on after a battery disconnect until you roll a few hundred yards. Let us know how that cheap MAF works as I think I need one as well and plan on going mafless when I go BT so no point in getting the Bosch lol.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

[paazan]

A little update about how it runs today.

I have notice that the transmission is not as smooth when shifting in low gear, maybe 1-2.

Adding little gas would sometimes boost the car and feel very strong acceleration. Also at low gear it vibrate/shake a bit.

It wasn't like this before. I don't know if it has anything todo with the MAF sensor. Any idea about the cause or where I should start trouble shooting?