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  1. #1
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    engine cranks but doesn't turn over 2008 A4 B7 2.0T

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    Hi everyone, I Need help diagnosing a no start problem with my 2008 Audi A4 2.0TFSI b7

    Changed intake camshaft due to lobe damage. All went well except now the engine will not start. It will crank and crank but not ever fully turn over. Ran compression test and 180 across the board. I expect the problem is fuel related but can't seem to narrow it down. Checked the the fuse and relay for the fuel pump. I first thought the problem was that I did not connect the ground on the back of the vacuum pump but fixing this did not help. The engine will occasionally sputter as if firing but then it will die. I ordered a vagcom usb reader on ebay in order to check for any codes related to the crankshaft camshaft or engine speed sensors. What should I check next? Thanks!

    Here is a video of the engine cranking..

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    How long have you cranked it for? I wouldn't expect it to fire after the short cranks in the video given that you had the fuel system open. After disconnecting everything it takes a good amount of time before it actually primes the lines and fires. Cycle the key on and off a few times to let the lpfp prime the lines, and then give it a good crank. It also looks like your O2 sensor wire is touching the manifold. That's unrelated, but probably something you should look into.
    -Adam

    '07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Scroll|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff…
    '06 A4 2.0T Quattro - RIP (Best ¼ mile pass 13.634 @ 103.30)

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Open the door and close it a few times to prime the HPFP too.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

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  4. #4
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    I cranked the car for a good 10-15 seconds and I have cranked it multiple times. I get a big spurt of gas out of the schrader valve when the engine is cranked so fuel is getting to the HPFP. Sometimes it will sputter once but usually it just keeps cranking. Also I hear the fuel pump when I open the door.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    Keep trying it. If it doesn't start after a few (4-5 attempts) 15-20 second cranks you might have an issue. Pulling codes will help once you get your cable, if there are any. The schraeder valve is on the low pressure side of the hpfp. Fuel still needs to fill the high pressure side and bleed out all the air from the lines. Bleeding fuel out of the schraeder valve is also prolonging the process of priming the system.
    -Adam

    '07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Scroll|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff…
    '06 A4 2.0T Quattro - RIP (Best ¼ mile pass 13.634 @ 103.30)

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings vce1232000's Avatar
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    Id say it for a steady 40 seconds. If if doesnt start by then. Then you got issue's
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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    If it is coming out of the release valve, then you're probably need to replace that right? Also check all your electrical connections again.

    Can you scan with VCDS?
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  8. #8
    Senior Member Two Rings bergy12's Avatar
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    Happend to me a couple weaks ago, everything was fine than one morning it just wouldn't start, it ended up being my low pressure fuel pump had just crapped out.
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  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vce1232000 View Post
    Id say it for a steady 40 seconds. If if doesnt start by then. Then you got issue's
    I wouldn't do that. That's going to kill the starter motor.

    Honestly the car shouldn't crank for more than 5-10 seconds before catching. When I did this on my car is caught after about that. I bet you left something disconnected.

    Try unplugging the MAF and see if it starts.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
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  10. #10
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    I just received the vagcom adapter in the mail, I got it set up and the test goes through ok under the options menu in vcds lite. Unfortunately the auto scan function is not working and their is no option for a b7 a4 and only for a b6?

    I tried unplugging the MAF and cranked for 15-20 seconds. The engine will sputter a couple of times on occasion but most of the time it just cranks. It sputters more on the first try or two (like there is residual fuel in the line). I double checked the other connectors visually and none are disconnected.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    could your timing be off ? you need compression to get fire .. I know you have compression as you checked , but is the timing of the compression correct ? if we go back to basics and look at what you did you had the intake cam out . Amy be worth a revisit there. if you pop the plugs out do you smell gas or are they wet ? this would tell you that you are getting gas and its just not firing. ive never done a cam so cant advise further but if It was working before maybe someone who has done an intake cam can chime in on some common pitfalls.
    2014 A4 2.0TQ Technik Manual
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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by holytexas123456 View Post
    I just received the vagcom adapter in the mail, I got it set up and the test goes through ok under the options menu in vcds lite. Unfortunately the auto scan function is not working and their is no option for a b7 a4 and only for a b6?

    I tried unplugging the MAF and cranked for 15-20 seconds. The engine will sputter a couple of times on occasion but most of the time it just cranks. It sputters more on the first try or two (like there is residual fuel in the line). I double checked the other connectors visually and none are disconnected.
    You only need to scan the engine module for this.

    Also is this a legit Ross-Tech cable or a knockoff?

    Most knockoffs don't work with CANBUS which is what the b6 uses for the engine controller.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    im guessing chineese knock off , I was using one on my 2000 a6C5 with vcds light. worked great for that but on the b7 it pops up communication fault. so time for the full on software, way more usefull on the b7 anyway
    2014 A4 2.0TQ Technik Manual
    2006 A4 2.0TQ Manual
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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Theiceman View Post
    im guessing chineese knock off , I was using one on my 2000 a6C5 with vcds light. worked great for that but on the b7 it pops up communication fault. so time for the full on software, way more usefull on the b7 anyway
    Yup! Legit ones are worth every penny.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  15. #15
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    Hi, got vagcom and got the following codes from the engine: P0422 P310B P0118 and P0100. The engine still cranks and occasionally sputters.

  16. #16
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    Did a couple tests today, got this log:
    Address 01: Engine (8E1 910 115 G)

    18:33:42
    28.0°KW Camshaft Adjustment (spec.)
    28.0°KW Camshaft Adjustment (act.)
    28.0°KW Bank 2 Camshaft Adjustment
    50.00 bar Rail Pressure (specified)
    51.91 bar Rail Pressure (actual)

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Address 01: Engine (8E1 910 115 G)

    18:34:16
    28.0°KW Camshaft Adjustment (spec.)
    -38.5°KW Camshaft Adjustment (act.)
    -38.5°KW Bank 2 Camshaft Adjustment
    51.38 bar Rail Pressure (specified)
    60.26 bar Rail Pressure (actual)

    It looks like the camshaft adjustment is changing every time I crank but sometimes it is both 28 kw. What would this symptom be indicative of? Engine still cranks and occasionally sputters. and compression test checked out..any ideas? Thanks!
    Last edited by holytexas123456; 06-07-2016 at 04:56 PM. Reason: typo

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by holytexas123456 View Post
    Hi, got vagcom and got the following codes from the engine: P0422 P310B P0118 and P0100. The engine still cranks and occasionally sputters.
    Unplug the maf, check lpfp fuse, make sure O2 sensor is plugged in and not damaged, and same thing with the coolant temp sensor at the back of the head.
    -Adam

    '07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Scroll|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff…
    '06 A4 2.0T Quattro - RIP (Best ¼ mile pass 13.634 @ 103.30)

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Camshaft sensor? 06F-109-257-C (N205)
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Okedokey View Post
    Camshaft sensor? 06F-109-257-C (N205)
    The N205 is not the cam sensor. The N205 is at the back of the head and controls oil pressure for variable timing on the exhaust cam. The cam position sensor is at the front of the head on the drivers side. None of his codes were cam related, but stranger things have happened.
    -Adam

    '07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Scroll|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff…
    '06 A4 2.0T Quattro - RIP (Best ¼ mile pass 13.634 @ 103.30)

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    May be, I don't know what the 'in spec' values should be.

    One thing that caught my eye though is

    51.38 bar Rail Pressure (specified)
    60.26 bar Rail Pressure (actual)
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  21. #21
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    Not too worried about the fuel pressure, one of those readings was taken just after I tried cranking. What is strange to me is the camshaft adjustment (act) is always off by a random number or is sometimes at the (spec) value; the value changes every time I crank the engine. I am planning to take the timing cover off to investigate further today.

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Howd you go?
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  23. #23
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    I opened the valve cover up. Everything looked good. VCDS auto-scan is clear. When I first go to crank the camshaft position is correct after cranking it changes to around -38.5°KW. When then I turn the key off and back on it will read the correct specified value. Any ideas?

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Crank position sensor, N280?
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    Cam position sensor is more likely.
    -Adam

    '07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Scroll|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff…
    '06 A4 2.0T Quattro - RIP (Best ¼ mile pass 13.634 @ 103.30)

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aluthman View Post
    Cam position sensor is more likely.
    Thats what i meant to say :)
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings dalmation53's Avatar
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    ughh any updates?
    Ivan

  28. #28
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    crank no start solved

    Similar problem. My solution was that my EFI and ECM relays were bad.

    Quote Originally Posted by holytexas123456 View Post
    Hi everyone, I Need help diagnosing a no start problem with my 2008 Audi A4 2.0TFSI b7

    Changed intake camshaft due to lobe damage. All went well except now the engine will not start. It will crank and crank but not ever fully turn over. Ran compression test and 180 across the board. I expect the problem is fuel related but can't seem to narrow it down. Checked the the fuse and relay for the fuel pump. I first thought the problem was that I did not connect the ground on the back of the vacuum pump but fixing this did not help. The engine will occasionally sputter as if firing but then it will die. I ordered a vagcom usb reader on ebay in order to check for any codes related to the crankshaft camshaft or engine speed sensors. What should I check next? Thanks!

    Here is a video of the engine cranking..

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