AC won't turn on

[blbroo]

Just started today. The button lights up when I press it, but quickly goes back off. The fans still blow, but no AC.

Any ideas?


This car is getting tired of me.
- clutch started getting weak a month ago
- have lost 4-5 psi of boost and can't figure out why
- sent back the K04 I bought, preinstall, because it had issues
- found out that I don't have a real stage 2 file, despite what I was told all along by GIAC. I have what is called stage 2 minus. Supposed to make the same power, but the misinformation is frustrating.

[EuropaVin]

Could be the AC pressure sensor (TSB 2020124/12). Mine went and I had the same issue. Fan would blow but no AC.

[Haci]

My best bet would be the A/C pressure sensor also, I just got my a/c fixed and it was a pressure switch related problem. Do you have Carista or something to check it out with? If so you could prob save a lot of money, the app + doggle = $40 around and the sensor is 70$ so it could be worth a try

[blbroo]

My best bet would be the A/C pressure sensor also, I just got my a/c fixed and it was a pressure switch related problem. Do you have Carista or something to check it out with? If so you could prob save a lot of money, the app + doggle = $40 around and the sensor is 70$ so it could be worth a try

I have carista and vag-com. Will check for faults. Thanks!

[blbroo]

[jorte014]

Just started today. The button lights up when I press it, but quickly goes back off. The fans still blow, but no AC.

Any ideas?


This car is getting tired of me.
- clutch started getting weak a month ago
- have lost 4-5 psi of boost and can't figure out why
- sent back the K04 I bought, preinstall, because it had issues
- found out that I don't have a real stage 2 file, despite what I was told all along by GIAC. I have what is called stage 2 minus. Supposed to make the same power, but the misinformation is frustrating.

Sorry to hear that, I had similar issues with AC and low boost.

1. Recently fixed AC, turns out compressor just went bad
2. Was driving with P0299 code (underboost) for a few weeks however the car was feeling sluggish long before then. I finally got tired of it and had it checked out - the wastegate actuator was so loose the wastegate was permanently open a little hence the explanation for the loss of boost. There is a clip you can buy that will clamp down on the wastegate actuator to reduce vibrations if it hasn't filed away to much of the metal around it. Mine was beyond redemption so I needed a new turbo. Might be what's happening with yours.
3. Clutch recently started slipping in the higher gears after the new turbo since it restored ALOT of lost power and torque. Can't go past 50% throttle on any gear higher than 3rd.

[The Fat Kid]

Just started today. The button lights up when I press it, but quickly goes back off. The fans still blow, but no AC.

Any ideas?


This car is getting tired of me.
- clutch started getting weak a month ago
- have lost 4-5 psi of boost and can't figure out why
- sent back the K04 I bought, preinstall, because it had issues
- found out that I don't have a real stage 2 file, despite what I was told all along by GIAC. I have what is called stage 2 minus. Supposed to make the same power, but the misinformation is frustrating.

Seriously, or is "stage 2 minus" a joke? Did they also give you a really good deal on a Rolex?

[blbroo]

Seriously, or is "stage 2 minus" a joke? Did they also give you a really good deal on a Rolex?

Nope, stage 2 minus, which in my understanding of math is less than 1+1.

I have a GIAC Stage 1.something tune, aka xplus, aka 2 minus.

[The Fat Kid]

Nope, stage 2 minus, which in my understanding of math is less than 1+1.

I have a GIAC Stage 1.something tune, aka xplus, aka 2 minus.

You should call it "Stage √3".

[Iridium.]

Had a similar issue with a B6 A4 in the shop today. Econ light would stay lit every time you attempted to turn on the A/C (switches off when A/C is functioning correctly). Turns out there was a leak in the compressor housing. From my understanding, the pressure sensor will trip if it has failed or the system is too low (ie. not refilled correctly or leaking refrigerant).

You can have your trusted indy shop drain what's left in your A/C system, then charge it with nitrogen and check the lines, compressor and condenser for leaks.

[blbroo]

Found the leak last night. Have a hole in the condenser behind the license plate holder.





Ordered a replacement condenser from rockauto and will move my FMIC forward while I have the bumper off.

[Jerritt]

Found the leak last night. Have a hole in the condenser behind the license plate holder.





Ordered a replacement condenser from rockauto and will move my FMIC forward while I have the bumper off.

What is this magic? Show me the way!

[Zach L]

Congrats on finding the source of the problem... such a good feeling to have!

[blbroo]

What is this magic? Show me the way!

Used a can of this
http://m.autozone.com/a-c-charging-a...0_0/?location=


Need a hose like this to deliver the stuff. Autozone has the same one.

http://www.google.com/shopping/produ...UdkaAi3W8P8HAQ


Put it into the lines with the car running and AC on. You may need to put some in, then turn off and on again to get the AC to kick on.

Then use a uv light to find the leak.

[ToddBrunswick]

Then use a uv light to find the leak.

And when you're done with the car, you can use it to find out where you leaked.

[blbroo]

And when you're done with the car, you can use it to find out where you leaked.

That's why I had a UV light in the first place.