Stalls

[Jgreenway]

So far i have replaced a head gasket, rebuilt the turbo, new plugs(E3), However the car is not running right and it stalls, I really don't even have time to get it to normal operating temp. . I have been through the car for vacuum leaks for about 3 days now and Have replaced a few lines. When i hit the gas ever so lightly it lags. Also i have found gas on the plugs so im guessing it is also running rich. Misfire codes for cyl 1,3 sometimes 2. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance.

[tHatOne guY]

So far i have replaced a head gasket, rebuilt the turbo, new plugs(E3), However the car is not running right and it stalls, I really don't even have time to get it to normal operating temp. . I have been through the car for vacuum leaks for about 3 days now and Have replaced a few lines. When i hit the gas ever so lightly it lags. Also i have found gas on the plugs so im guessing it is also running rich. Misfire codes for cyl 1,3 sometimes 2. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance.

What you working on exactly? 1.8t? 3.0L V6?

You have Vagcom?

Off the top of my head check cam belt timing.

Pull those E3's out and put in the correct plugs.

Of course check cam position sensor and crank position sensor. Among other things do a T-Body adaptation to start.

And start to diagnose the misfire codes, is it a faulty injector, coil pack harness damage, faulty coil(s), low compression... u know?

[Jgreenway]

motor is a 1.8t and cam belt is almost perfect (i say almost because the arrow lines up on the intake side to the right side of the square hole just a little bit, I do not have a vagcom they are a little to pricey for me atm. I have however tried putting the old plug back in and nothing changed. crank sensor is new and T-body adaptation takes place each time i try something new, even if i just moved a coil pack from one hole to another, just incase. The coil pack harness is also new, just installed last week, I thought that was my issue but guess not.....

[Furly]

Check your MAF.
You can unplug it and see if the car still stalls or runs fine.

[Jgreenway]

No change from MAF when unplugged.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Audizine mobile app

[texasboy21]

Do you have a boost gauge? Any leaks? Vagcom is priceless when it comes to diagnosing problems. Rather than throwing expensive parts at the car guessing, invest in a cable as soon as you can.

[imnuts]

Fuel pump dieing? Check the fuel pressure on the fuel rail, it should be 4 bar. Another thought would be leaking injector(s). You should find a cheap OBD-II adapter and get some info about how the car as running, as it would help a lot in figuring out what's going on.

Sent from my DROID Turbo 2

[Jgreenway]

no gauge and i really want to get a vagcom AsAp. got a good site for a cable with a good price?

[Jgreenway]

i dont have a fuel tester but now its on the list of tools to buy, the obd scanner i have doesnt seem to give out much info. Only thing its telling me it that my cyl 1 it miss fireing and thats not all the time. I did change my plugs to the NGK ones, the motor was running earlier with a higher idle(more like normal). However it still died.

[diagnosticator]

You can search for more vacuum leaks by using a propane torch (not burning) with the gas on engine idling, trace all the vacuum system hoses slowly. A vacuum leak will pull in propane and the idle speed will increase/smooth out.

[Jgreenway]

As of today the car will start and I can Rev it but only for about 30 secs to a min, then it bogs/stalls out, I did however hear a real small backfire sound

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Audizine mobile app

[diagnosticator]

As of today the car will start and I can Rev it but only for about 30 secs to a min, then it bogs/stalls out, I did however hear a real small backfire sound

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Audizine mobile app

Backfires indicate a lean air/fuel mixture due to several causes, the main cause is a vacuum leak somewhere.

It is also possible the fuel pump is malfunctioning, failing to produce specified fuel pressure in the fuel rail. You should connect a fuel pressure test gauge to the test port on the back end of the fuel rail. Specified pressure is 4.0 Bar, ~58 psig.