5 spd transmission manual install after single mass clutch kit

[refueler]

I've been struggling to install the 01A 5 spd manual transmission in my 2002 Audi A4 Quattro after installing a Valeo 52285615 single mass clutch kit. I have the transmission on my floor jack with a hydraulic bottle jack on the jack to support the tail of the transmission that I use that to level the transmission. When I roll the transmission up to the engine bell housing it gets to within about 2" and it hits something and stops. It looks visually lined up, the ring gear is about 1/4" from entering the transmission housing all around and the bolt holes appear lined up. I'm guessing but from looking at the distances I think the transmission input shaft is not going through the splined hub of the clutch disk. I lowered the transmission and checked to make sure everything was in the correct place and rechecked the clutch disk alignment. I don't think that the input shaft is hitting the needle bearings in the end of the crank shaft. I think that the housings would be about 1" apart for that to happen. This is how I visualize things if anyone has any thoughts or ideas on how to get this transmission back in place I would appreciate hearing from you. I was very happy when I removed the transmission I unbolted it pulled it back a couple of inches and lowered it to the floor everything went great until I tried to put it back. Thank you

[MoparFreak69]

More than likely you don't have the input shaft centered in the clutch, preventing you from getting everything to mate up properly. It only takes being off a quarter of an inch for it to not go together. Sometimes I like to lift and lower the bellhousing side of the transmission slightly, and move it side to side slightly in hopes of getting it to fall in place.

[refueler]

Thanks I'm trying to be patient so as not to damage anything I've installed several transmissions before and usually you hit the right alignment and it slides together. The alignment visually looks good I will try fine tuning the alignment some more to see if I can get the input shaft into the clutch splined hub. If I'm not successful I think I'm going to lower the transmission and remove the pressure plate to make sure I installed the clutch disk properly.

[Kevin C]

On my last transmission job I had a transmission jack that made fine tuning the angle easier. In the past I have used dut off bolts as dowel pins to make sure I wasn't off. Personal experience is the first obstacle is the splines and turning the input shaft to get them to aligned helps (in gear turn both axle flanges). As mentioned, disk alignment matters. The plastic alignment tool can be a bit sloppy and easily set at a bit of an angle. There is a bit of feel to getting the disk centered with one. How well does it fit into your pilot bearing?

The clutch kit PN looks right, so the flywheel should fit inside the bellhousing. Also the slave cylinder will keep the throwout bearing all the way forward. So expect to be pushing against the small spring in it. Not a lot of resistance, just a tiny bit. I'm assuming that the throwout bearing is seated in the arm and the pivot is seated as well?

IS this an auto to manual swap? If so what did you end up using for a pilot bearing and did you test fit it on the transmissions input shaft to make sure it slides over it?

That's all I can think of.

[refueler]

I finally got the transmission back in the car. Last question first it was an auto to manual swap but someone else did it so I know the pilot bearing was not the problem. I did not have a transmission jack so I did it on my garage floor with a floor jack. I checked out the clutch kit to make sure I got the right kit, glad that checked out. This morning I took the transmission out and lowered it to the floor. I took a bunch of measurements to determine at what distance the input shaft entered the disk splined hub and when the splines on the input shaft entered the hub. This way I would know where I was during the installation process. Then when I got the transmission back into position I took measurements in several places between the bell housing and the transmission housing to aid in the alignment. That helped because the transmission slid to within a 1/4" of being seated when I pushed it in. Then I used the bolts to draw it in the rest of the way.

[refueler]

Finally had time to finish the fly wheel, clutch, and pressure plate replacement on my 2002 A 4. The car is back on all four tires and I took it for a drive tonight. The new clutch set up works great. There are still a few issues that I need to research but it is done for right now.

[NY337]

Hope you get sorted out quick so you can fully enjoy the car. How do you feel about the engagement and daily drive ability? Looking into this option soon as my clutch is wearing thin. I have read good things about the kit from oldguy and I just wanted to hear another opinion as well. Great job for doing it yourself I will be going the same route. Can't pay that much to get it done.

[B6A4Dave]

Whenever I do trans I usually roll the trans onto my chest and bench press it into place..put your knee on the tail of the trans and press the front.. its kinda a pain in the ass but I've pulled trans out, swapped clutches and put back in i6 hours before.. just fight with it till you feel it connect it the splines then slowly start running all the bolts in to help suck it closer.

[refueler]

Well I got to drive it for a day and it has very good clutch engagement. Unfortunately I didn't get the rear main seal installed correctly and I've started to remove the transmission. I've stated here in the past that I'm not very smart and I continue to prove it at every opportunity. When I saw the plastic disk that was installed in the seal where the crank shaft end goes instead of finding why it was there I took it off and installed the seal. Now the seal leaks and I have another project to do its a good thing I have lots of time to redo work oh well maybe I'll learn someday.