Let's talk wheel spacers. How must I appease the Wobble God? Why has he forsaken me?

[magn2o]

Spacers. They're great, right? Everyone apparently has them, and why wouldn't they? They look fantastic.

Well, apparently I'm not supposed to have spacers. Either that, or I'm just overly critical and not willing to accept the extra "bonus" they provide. I'm talking about "The Wobble(tm)".

I've been through about 3 sets of spacers. 1 from H&R, and 2 from ECS. Both used and brand new. They all behave the same.

My hubs could not be any cleaner or smoother. I've scrubbed the ever living $@#! out of them. They are clean and smoother than a baby's bottom. Yet, after installing the spacers, it never fails, I get an annoying wobble which is felt in the steering wheel, and is the most pronounced around around 60-70MPH.

For the record, I'm using the ECS flush-fit kit (8mm/12.5mm) with OEM S4 peelers, and yes, I'm using the correct ball-seats bolts. I have, literally, brand new tires which have been aligned (twice), and even Road-Force balanced (why not, right? let's just keep throwing money at the problem..)

Is there anyone out there, who can truly say, that they have 0 additional wobble in their steering wheel after installing spacers? If I get up to 65MPH and take my hands off the steering wheel, you can see the damn thing shaking. Once I remove the spacers, it's smooth sailing all day long. I've put on and taken these damn things off no less than a dozen times already over the span of a few months. I'm getting to the point of just trying to find some S5 peelers to replace my S4 peelers and calling it a day..

Anyone else dealt with this.. and hopefully found a solution?

[The Infiltrator]

Is there anyone out there, who can truly say, that they have 0 additional wobble in their steering wheel after installing spacers?

I have zero wobble with spacers.

[Chris@EPL]

Adaptec Speedware problem solved

[zcspec]

I have zero wobble with spacers.

+1 to that. I run 20mm front/rear even.

[JeriQo]

are the bolts properly/evenly torqued?

[magn2o]

are the bolts properly/evenly torqued?

As far as I know, yes, I always torque down 90 ft. lbs all around.

- - - Updated - - -

Adaptec Speedware problem solved

These are intriguing.. but I don't want to get stuck with a $190 set of spacers if my issues lies elsewhere. :/

[The Fat Kid]

Check the B8 S4 forum.

I do not have spacers, but recall reading that there were issues with the thinner versions. I am not sure if people had an issue with 5mm or 8mm, but I think 10mm solved the problem. There was some kind of obvious design difference when comparing them side by side.

[The Infiltrator]

Check the B8 S4 forum.

I do not have spacers, but recall reading that there were issues with the thinner versions. I am not sure if people had an issue with 5mm or 8mm, but I think 10mm solved the problem. There was some kind of obvious design difference when comparing them side by side.

I've heard that too, but I've never had an issue with spacers. I've ran 5, 10 and 15mm spacers with zero issues for years. This sounds like a freak occurrence.

[zcspec]

Here's another wrench to throw at you...are you using the correct lug lengths? Anything past 5mm will require longer lugs.

[tb330]

Ive had a bunch of different sizes over the years and never had any issues. Currently have ECS 10mm front and 12.5mm rear on without any wobble. I do not like to run anything less than 10mm because you lose the lip. I have some rubbing in the rear so I'm going to give the new ECS wheel centric 8mm spacers a try, should be here tomorrow so Ill update when theyre on.

[[email protected]]

With factory wheels spacers over 3-4mm can lead to vibrations, sometimes. The issue is that factory wheels have a larger taper in the center bore of the wheel. When you fit a spacer that causes the center bore of the wheel to not sit on the center of the hub you can have vibration issues because the wheel is not perfectly centered. Wheel bolts do not center the wheels on these cars, wheels are hubcentric.

The reason that some people say they use 20mm, 15mm, etc without issue is because spacers over 10mm can have a protruding lip that acts as the center of the hub. Sometimes the lip is big enough to engage factory wheels and sometime it isn't.

My guess is your 8mm spacer is the problem. That would be a flat spacer without an added lip. Remove the 8mm and try just the rear 12.5mm, which I assume have a lip. Check for vibration.

If no vibration move the 12.5mm spacer up front and ensure when doing that the lip on the spacer is large enough to make the wheel center before you put bolts in. Meaning put the wheel on and it shouldn't wobble around. If it doesn't tighten up and test for vibration.

The issue with flat spacers over 3-4mm and factory wheels is that you have to get lucky to center the wheel as it loses contact with the hub center. This goes up to 10mm where spacers can again have a lip, however with many 10mm spacers the lip isn't big enough to engage the factory wheels because of the taper.

The reason I bother offering the 10mm MTM spacers, which are expensive for what they are, is that they have a matching deep taper to the factory wheels to properly center the wheel while many 10mm spacers are designed around aftermarket wheels which have a much smaller taper and need much less lip to center.

Cheers,

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

We've had mixed reviews in regards to 8mm spacers. We do offer a wheel centric 8mm for B8 chassis which should help with centering the spacer and reduce the chance of vibration/wobble.

We also recommend installing with a wheel hanger or two which will act like a stud for even more true-ness. Getting the spacer to seat properly is the biggest key to a vibration/wobble free installation.

We also recommend that the bolts be torqued pretty close to spec before the you put load back on the wheel/tires. If not there is the possibility that when you set the vehicle down to torque to spec, the wheel can kick out and unfortunately once the corner weight of the vehicle is applied it's difficult to re-seat everything which can introduce a wobble or vibration.

This obviously doesn't apply if you torque the bolts to spec while the wheel is off the ground.

Jason

[toast88]

I have this issue as well, except I don't have spacers. I get steering wheel wobble around 70mph and I don't know what is causing it. I recently had an alignment and tire rotation / balance. Only thing was that one wheel was slightly bent but it is now on the rear

[Shimmy]

I've ran all sizes on my audi and not one issue

ECS: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 15mm
H&R: 3mm, 5mm

No issues.

[Lambda13]

I had no issues with my spacers, 5 mm. Make sure they are hub centric is the only thing I can think of.

[CloseEncounters]

One thing you could try that 'may' help...Have the wheel balanced with the respective spacer mated to it on the balance machine then make sure you mark a reference point on the spacer at the area where it's placed on the wheel then reinstall on the wheel hub with the reference points aligned on the hub. Hope this worked for you as it did for me.

[Jacon]

We also recommend that the bolts be torqued pretty close to spec before the you put load back on the wheel/tires. If not there is the possibility that when you set the vehicle down to torque to spec, the wheel can kick out and unfortunately once the corner weight of the vehicle is applied it's difficult to re-seat everything which can introduce a wobble or vibration.

This!

Torque the wheel down as much as you can BEFORE dropping the wheel to full weight or load. I have 8mm in the rear and 10mm in the front. If I don't torque them down evenly, I'll get a wobble.

@ECS: can I exchange my non-lip 8mm for a lipped 8mm? Mine are ECS.

[shonseb]

I had issues with 8mm spacers because there was no lip. I put lipped spacers on and have had no problems, since. I also always road force balance me wheels to eliminate any vibration that may come from the wheel.

[magn2o]

Here's another wrench to throw at you...are you using the correct lug lengths? Anything past 5mm will require longer lugs.

Yup. I'm using the appropriate length bolts for these spacers.

Ive had a bunch of different sizes over the years and never had any issues. Currently have ECS 10mm front and 12.5mm rear on without any wobble. I do not like to run anything less than 10mm because you lose the lip. I have some rubbing in the rear so I'm going to give the new ECS wheel centric 8mm spacers a try, should be here tomorrow so Ill update when theyre on.

That's what I'm using in the front, the 8MM ECS wheel centric spacers. I'd love to know your results!

One thing you could try that 'may' help...Have the wheel balanced with the respective spacer mated to it on the balance machine then make sure you mark a reference point on the spacer at the area where it's placed on the wheel then reinstall on the wheel hub with the reference points aligned on the hub. Hope this worked for you as it did for me.

Yep, I've had the wheels balanced twice. Both with and without spacers. Unfortunately, it made no difference.

I had issues with 8mm spacers because there was no lip. I put lipped spacers on and have had no problems, since. I also always road force balance me wheels to eliminate any vibration that may come from the wheel.

That's my next step, giving the 10mm's a shot. They have a bigger lip than the 8mms...

[magn2o]

We've had mixed reviews in regards to 8mm spacers. We do offer a wheel centric 8mm for B8 chassis which should help with centering the spacer and reduce the chance of vibration/wobble.

We also recommend installing with a wheel hanger or two which will act like a stud for even more true-ness. Getting the spacer to seat properly is the biggest key to a vibration/wobble free installation.

We also recommend that the bolts be torqued pretty close to spec before the you put load back on the wheel/tires. If not there is the possibility that when you set the vehicle down to torque to spec, the wheel can kick out and unfortunately once the corner weight of the vehicle is applied it's difficult to re-seat everything which can introduce a wobble or vibration.

This obviously doesn't apply if you torque the bolts to spec while the wheel is off the ground.

Jason

Hi Jason,

I'm actually using your 8MM wheel centric spacers (2785217). They feel like they're fitting flush and true, and I also used a pair of wheel hangers during the install. I've been through 2 sets of the 8MMs. The first pair was bought used, from AZ. I chalked those up to possibly being warped -- so I bought a brand new set. Same issue. :/

I'll give it another go this weekend, making sure to try and torque it down while still up in the air. Previously, I'd torque them down to about 50-60 ft/lbs while still in the air, then down to 90 ft/lbs when on the ground. Hopefully this will make a difference, as I really do love the way they look. :/

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

This!

Torque the wheel down as much as you can BEFORE dropping the wheel to full weight or load. I have 8mm in the rear and 10mm in the front. If I don't torque them down evenly, I'll get a wobble.

@ECS: can I exchange my non-lip 8mm for a lipped 8mm? Mine are ECS.

Customer service may exchange them for you but I'm not 100% positive. You can give them a call at 1-800-924-5172 ex 134 and see if there's anything they can do.

Hi Jason,

I'm actually using your 8MM wheel centric spacers (2785217). They feel like they're fitting flush and true, and I also used a pair of wheel hangers during the install. I've been through 2 sets of the 8MMs. The first pair was bought used, from AZ. I chalked those up to possibly being warped -- so I bought a brand new set. Same issue. :/

I'll give it another go this weekend, making sure to try and torque it down while still up in the air. Previously, I'd torque them down to about 50-60 ft/lbs while still in the air, then down to 90 ft/lbs when on the ground. Hopefully this will make a difference, as I really do love the way they look. :/

Sounds good let me know how it turns out.

Jason

[Jacon]

Hi Jason,

I'm actually using your 8MM wheel centric spacers (2785217). They feel like they're fitting flush and true, and I also used a pair of wheel hangers during the install. I've been through 2 sets of the 8MMs. The first pair was bought used, from AZ. I chalked those up to possibly being warped -- so I bought a brand new set. Same issue. :/

I'll give it another go this weekend, making sure to try and torque it down while still up in the air. Previously, I'd torque them down to about 50-60 ft/lbs while still in the air, then down to 90 ft/lbs when on the ground. Hopefully this will make a difference, as I really do love the way they look. :/

The other trick is to lower the wheel so that it places just enough pressure on the ground for you to torque the lugs without turning the wheel. You can also put the car in gear to stop the fronts and apply the e-brake to freeze the rear wheels.

[na_v]

No wobble what so ever 15 mm in front and 18.5 in the back

[stussy2870]

I'll test them on my car for ya??? No spacers and 100% stock :)

[inception]

Spacers. They're great, right? Everyone apparently has them, and why wouldn't they? They look fantastic.

Well, apparently I'm not supposed to have spacers. Either that, or I'm just overly critical and not willing to accept the extra "bonus" they provide. I'm talking about "The Wobble(tm)".

I've been through about 3 sets of spacers. 1 from H&R, and 2 from ECS. Both used and brand new. They all behave the same.

My hubs could not be any cleaner or smoother. I've scrubbed the ever living $@#! out of them. They are clean and smoother than a baby's bottom. Yet, after installing the spacers, it never fails, I get an annoying wobble which is felt in the steering wheel, and is the most pronounced around around 60-70MPH.

For the record, I'm using the ECS flush-fit kit (8mm/12.5mm) with OEM S4 peelers, and yes, I'm using the correct ball-seats bolts. I have, literally, brand new tires which have been aligned (twice), and even Road-Force balanced (why not, right? let's just keep throwing money at the problem..)

Is there anyone out there, who can truly say, that they have 0 additional wobble in their steering wheel after installing spacers? If I get up to 65MPH and take my hands off the steering wheel, you can see the damn thing shaking. Once I remove the spacers, it's smooth sailing all day long. I've put on and taken these damn things off no less than a dozen times already over the span of a few months. I'm getting to the point of just trying to find some S5 peelers to replace my S4 peelers and calling it a day..

Anyone else dealt with this.. and hopefully found a solution?

First question do you have a new set of tires?
second did you get an alignment done

Best way for spacers that i know and i have had similar issues

I have found is always install with New tires and get all four wheels aligned at the same time. i know it is cost money but i had the same issue with 10mm front and 12mm flush kit from ECS and the only thing that solved it was new tires. I got the alignment done so my new tires would not wear out with cupping on the sides

I think your shaking is coming from the wear pattern without the spacers..

[magn2o]

First question do you have a new set of tires?

Yes. Less than 500 miles on them. Michelin Pilot PS2s all around.

second did you get an alignment done

Yes, twice. I even got a Road Force balance for the hell of it.

[eirebob]

Not sure if you've gotten your situation resolved, but I've gotten mine finally sorted, and thought I'd let you know. I didn't post before, as other posters seemed to cover most all of the possible causes for your wobble issue.

Like you, I encountered a modest steering wheel wobble from about 60 - 65 upon mounting ESC spacers, in my case 10 and 15mm. Took them off ... no problems. Thought maybe the wheels might be a little out of balance, as my SuperSports were nearing the end of their tread, and that new rubber and road force balancing might cure the problem. Asked Matt at Pagnano's, the only tire dealers locally with the proper balancing equipment, to balance the wheels with the spacers attached. 3 of the 4 balanced out fine, but the 4th, one of the 10mm, did not. He measured the widths at various points on the spacer, and reported a variance of from approximately 9.4mm to 10.6mm. He felt this was enough to create the wobble, and recommended new spacers.

I contacted ECS, and was able to arrange an exchange. Got the new ones yesterday, installed today, and just got off the freeway after a wobble-free drive.

Just reporting my experience. If you have access to a caliper, measure your spacer widths at various points to see if there's a substantial variance. Hope this does some good for you.

[tb330]

A little update after getting the 8mm wheel centric spacers installed. No wobble prior or with the 10mm ECS spacers, but now I have quite a bit of wobble with them. I knew I probably shouldn't go with them because they didnt have the lip but tried it anyway hoping theyd work. Now I'll have to waste a couple more dollars going with another set of 10mm :-(

[JeriQo]

A little update after getting the 8mm wheel centric spacers installed. No wobble prior or with the 10mm ECS spacers, but now I have quite a bit of wobble with them. I knew I probably shouldn't go with them because they didnt have the lip but tried it anyway hoping theyd work. Now I'll have to waste a couple more dollars going with another set of 10mm :-(

$100+ bucks is not a couple of dollars. you must be ballin

[tb330]

$100+ bucks is not a couple of dollars. you must be ballin

Lol I wish I was ballin..trying to make myself feel a little better by downplaying the cost. Should just run without spacers up front, problem solved!

[JeriQo]

Lol I wish I was ballin..trying to make myself feel a little better by downplaying the cost. Should just run without spacers up front, problem solved!

You can usually snag spacers from the ad section for 60 bucks. Good luck!

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

[Chris B8.5]

I had similar issues with My 2009 6MT. Steering wheel wobble around 60mph. After a lot of digging there was a TSB for lower control arms being weak. I noticed the wobble much more with my spacers. I sold the vehicle without addressing the actual problem but came to the conclusion that had I kept it that would have been the next step after all the balancing, tires, bent rims and road force...