EPC skipping record

[Tenedorr]

For the better part of two years my 2007 2.0t A4 has been in and out of limp mode. The recurring theme is p0087 p2292 and p2294. Both pumps have been replaced, the high pressure one twice. The alternator. The ecu. The fuel pressure sensors (i dont recall what they're called but it was done) the battery even the wire running from the ECU to the hpfp. The symptoms are sudden fuel cuts followed by EPC and limp mode. Also the RPM's start to fluctuate when its about to go. It could be coincidence but I doubt it. I read where some guy was having the same type problem and he cleaned off his cam position sensor. Tried it. Nope. Another guy (I think it was someone from JHM) said the sensor from the hpfp has been crap all over the place but I cant believe that because its been replaced twice. Anyway I have posted about this several times to no avail, been searching the threads but hoping that maybe some new info has come about.

[Tenedorr]

Cleared codes, drove it to work, within 30 seconds got EPC again, checked codes and got 2294 and one each for misfire cylinder 2 and cylinder 4 but the EPC wasn't flashing like it will with a bad coil and its not shuddering like bad coils. After perusing the threads things are pointing at maybe bad ground on ECU? Who knows.

[Okedokey]

Post full VCDS scan please mate.

[Tenedorr]

I don't have VCDS just a Bosch scanner. Doesn't matter the used car dealer I bought it from offered to either bring it into the shop he associates with and let them try for the 8th time or give me $1000 to deal with it myself, I took the $$$ and I'm bringing it to another guy tomorrow that specializes in imports and electrical issues.

[R Nasty]

Check the relays under your ecu. They are marked 614. I had similar issues to you and replacing these fixed my issues.....

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[rohit904]

I had EPC issue for last one year.
Audi dealer could not diagnose it for one full day. I took the car back.
Last week I gave the car to a local Audi service center in Milwaukee.

The guy found the problem. It was the 614 relay that was faulty. It was dropping the voltage on many other parts.
Relay was replaced for 77 dollars. Diagnosis was 600 dollars :(

Maybe you can look into this.

[Copen-cisco]

Yup. Check all relays and fuses

[Okedokey]

I had EPC issue for last one year.
Audi dealer could not diagnose it for one full day. I took the car back.
Last week I gave the car to a local Audi service center in Milwaukee.

The guy found the problem. It was the 614 relay that was faulty. It was dropping the voltage on many other parts.
Relay was replaced for 77 dollars. Diagnosis was 600 dollars :(

Maybe you can look into this.

Wow a 10 minute easy job and you can get non-audi relays with the same exact package and spec for around $7.

[rohit904]

Wow a 10 minute easy job and you can get non-audi relays with the same exact package and spec for around $7.

I know but finding the EPC root cause was the problem. I didn't know what the problem was. Then when the service giy told me it is just the relay and it won't cost much I just told him to change it.
Was fed up with the EPC issue.
Will remember your suggestion next time.

Cheers

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[PedroPickleB7]

OP, I've been following your threads for like forever now... time and time and time again people ask you to get them logs... VCDS logs, a rosstech cable and time and time and time again you are just coming back with your shitbox and a shit scanner to throw us a code and ask us to fetch a solution for you. People have even offered to ship you their cable so they can help you to help them get logs to help you! You come here to rant about your fucking codes. It's time to give up and buy a rosstech cable, otherwise I don't know how you want people to help you. with a VCDS you can log the your fuel pressure, timing, boost, etc. Also you clown, why would you clean your cam position sensor and put it back, haven't you thrown plenty of money to this, why not get it for 32 fucking dollars? Replace the damn thing if you got that far or at least measure the resistance across it to see if it is indeed open/shorted. You'll have a better chance getting hit by lightning than get your car to work again with these ridiculous posts.

Have you measured the voltage on your fucking components? Maybe now your voltage regulator is shit and your overcharging your circuit.

[Tenedorr]

OP, I've been following your threads for like forever now... time and time and time again people ask you to get them logs... VCDS logs, a rosstech cable and time and time and time again you are just coming back with your shitbox and a shit scanner to throw us a code and ask us to fetch a solution for you. People have even offered to ship you their cable so they can help you to help them get logs to help you! You come here to rant about your fucking codes. It's time to give up and buy a rosstech cable, otherwise I don't know how you want people to help you. with a VCDS you can log the your fuel pressure, timing, boost, etc. Also you clown, why would you clean your cam position sensor and put it back, haven't you thrown plenty of money to this, why not get it for 32 fucking dollars? Replace the damn thing if you got that far or at least measure the resistance across it to see if it is indeed open/shorted. You'll have a better chance getting hit by lightning than get your car to work again with these ridiculous posts.

Have you measured the voltage on your fucking components? Maybe now your voltage regulator is shit and your overcharging your circuit.

Thanks, this was very helpful. I dont spend the money on a cable because I'd rather spend the money at a shop hoping they can figure it out, I sure cant this is way out of my league. I post because I'm hopeful somewhere there's someone that's had the same needle in a haystack issue and I can pass the info on to the shop. If you have a problem then just stop reading my shit BRO.

Cheers

[Tenedorr]

I had EPC issue for last one year.
Audi dealer could not diagnose it for one full day. I took the car back.
Last week I gave the car to a local Audi service center in Milwaukee.

The guy found the problem. It was the 614 relay that was faulty. It was dropping the voltage on many other parts.
Relay was replaced for 77 dollars. Diagnosis was 600 dollars :(

Maybe you can look into this.

Yeah I've brought mine to Audi, spent $400 on diagnosis, then $1400 on parts only to have it go limp/EPC that same day with the same issues. They said bring it back I said no fucking way. The Audi techs, at least where I went, had no clue, just read codes, took logs and threw parts into the fuel system until it stopped. I have a guy I've brought it to for other issues that I believe will figure it out now, cars been with him since Thursday, he said if he can catch it tripping he can locate the source.

[Tenedorr]

Check the relays under your ecu. They are marked 614. I had similar issues to you and replacing these fixed my issues.....

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Already been there but I appreciate the input

[Okedokey]

OP, I've been following your threads for like forever now... time and time and time again people ask you to get them logs... VCDS logs, a rosstech cable and time and time and time again you are just coming back with your shitbox and a shit scanner to throw us a code and ask us to fetch a solution for you. People have even offered to ship you their cable so they can help you to help them get logs to help you! You come here to rant about your fucking codes. It's time to give up and buy a rosstech cable, otherwise I don't know how you want people to help you. with a VCDS you can log the your fuel pressure, timing, boost, etc. Also you clown, why would you clean your cam position sensor and put it back, haven't you thrown plenty of money to this, why not get it for 32 fucking dollars? Replace the damn thing if you got that far or at least measure the resistance across it to see if it is indeed open/shorted. You'll have a better chance getting hit by lightning than get your car to work again with these ridiculous posts.

Have you measured the voltage on your fucking components? Maybe now your voltage regulator is shit and your overcharging your circuit.

You can just ignore his posts if it worries you so much.

[Ringsby4]

You can just ignore his posts if it worries you so much.

+1

[Tenedorr]

Heard back from the shop yesterday, he said the sensor on the hpfp shorted out and fried something in the ecu. Ever hear of this happening? What would cause it?

[Tenedorr]

Update its been 2 months, no solution, he couldn't reprogram the new/used ecu or some shit. Says there's a site where hes supposed to be able to do that but its been shut down. He suspects its because of the VW emissions scam. I think bullshit, so I'm taking the car back Monday, going to swap out the relays again and check the harnesses, who knows maybe that's the issue. Wouldn't that just be a kicker. If it doesn't work then I'm going to try another Audi dealership and probably get bent over again by them.

[Tenedorr]

Hi guys it's your favorite Audiziner! Went and got the car after 2+ months, he hasnt gotten to the bottom of things. Has to jump start it (that tells me there must be a short) and the ABS and traction control lights are on but she's driving fine. After 5 minutes they go off. $0 minutes down the road and Ive hit the gas 1/2 way 3 times and get the blinking CEL each time. 4th time it goes EPC on me. Whatever, park the car and read the codes, Ive got 8 seemingly random ones so I go eat and take an hour, go back out and this is what I get
U0100 lost comm with ecm/pcm
P2292 fuel pressure regulator 2 control circuit
P0302 cylinder 2 misfire
P0688 ecm/pc, module power relay sense circuit open
all the while the dash lights ar on, then some shut off, then on blinks and shuts off, weird chimes and shit then the code reader resets and then the whole car dies as thought the battery is dead. I check it, it is, its registering like 3.4. I pull the ECM and check the first 614 relay, its extremely discolored around the metal prongs, pulled it apart and it's pretty corroded, where the thing on the spring makes contact with the inner part of the relay had black soot on it. Went to pull the 2nd one and the case just came off exposing the extremely corroded innards. I haven't gotten a closer look yet. Looking underneath the relay there is a big pool of rusty looking water. Smoking gun anyone? I cant believe the guy had the car for 2 months, I asked him repeatedly to check this and it never got done. Whatever, now I'll be spending some time cleaning this out. I think I finally got to the bottom of this. If anyone has further input or info it'd be greatly appreciated. I wanna get this done right. Thanks

[Tenedorr]

Check the relays under your ecu. They are marked 614. I had similar issues to you and replacing these fixed my issues.....

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I said I already had done that but I had only replaced one relay and didn't actually pull the box out and clean the harnesses. Im going deep this time.

[grassrootz]

I said I already had done that but I had only replaced one relay and didn't actually pull the box out and clean the harnesses. Im going deep this time.

With Audi's ALWAYS go deep. The problems are gremlins...and now you say you found water.....

Gremlins and water....a terrible mix just don't stop until you fix it.

[Theiceman]

over two months any water would have dried up .. you obviously have a water leak on to the power relays causing your issues. fix the water leak first.

[grassrootz]

over two months any water would have dried up .. you obviously have a water leak on to the power relays causing your issues. fix the water leak first.

Doesn't need to be a leak...just a blocked drainage. The ECUs sit next to the windshield and rain tray...if you aren't cleaning out that area normally it will plug and water can sit in there even in hot weather. It has no where to evaporate without condensing back eventually.

[Tenedorr]

Yeah clearly theres a leak but the to 614's were fried and the other little one had water in it. Sprayed the shit out of it with contact cleaner, dried the tray and am seeing if it works. Trying jumper cables but might have to wait until tomorrow to legit charge the battery (my buddys got my charger) When I put it back together Im gonna buy some gasket stuff and apply it to the cap of the tray.

[Tenedorr]

Car wont turn over now. Voltage in battery is fine but when you turn the key there is no response. Ideas?

[swaggerwagon]

you have this problem since i could remember....

good luck!

[Tenedorr]

Does anyone know of any fuses or relays that would get fried as a result of the water in the box causing the starter to not engage (the solenoid isn't clicking, there is literally no reaction when I turn the key. Also it has a new starter)? Also causing the battery to not charge? Im going to charge the battery for a while then dive in again this afternoon, any advice would be great.

[Okedokey]

Same ones.

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Remove the ECU box and take some pics. You need to start doing some investigations with a systematic approach using the schematics or VCDS. Otherwise this will truly go on forever.

[1killera4]

OP, I've been following your threads for like forever now... time and time and time again people ask you to get them logs... VCDS logs, a rosstech cable and time and time and time again you are just coming back with your shitbox and a shit scanner to throw us a code and ask us to fetch a solution for you. People have even offered to ship you their cable so they can help you to help them get logs to help you! You come here to rant about your fucking codes. It's time to give up and buy a rosstech cable, otherwise I don't know how you want people to help you. with a VCDS you can log the your fuel pressure, timing, boost, etc. Also you clown, why would you clean your cam position sensor and put it back, haven't you thrown plenty of money to this, why not get it for 32 fucking dollars? Replace the damn thing if you got that far or at least measure the resistance across it to see if it is indeed open/shorted. You'll have a better chance getting hit by lightning than get your car to work again with these ridiculous posts.

Have you measured the voltage on your fucking components? Maybe now your voltage regulator is shit and your overcharging your circuit.

You sure are an asshole.

[1killera4]

If it got wet under there thats the issue. Replace all the relays.

[Sanjman]

You sure are an asshole.

Lol I like how he rants and talks shit then tries to help. Gotta love AZ.

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[thenofjboy]

Lol I like how he rants and talks shit then tries to help. Gotta love AZ.

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LOL X2 - I was thinking the same thing. GL OP!

[Tenedorr]

If it got wet under there thats the issue. Replace all the relays.

Already cleaned the box and the wire harnesses up, replaced all relays and checked the fuses in the box, they're good. Going to go through the door fuses next. I had read something about a fuse #29 that can cause the car to either not start or not crank, I'm hoping for not crank and the fuse is blown. Didn't get a chance to charge the battery today my buddy forgot my charger but used the jumper cables to no avail. Anybody know anything about the fuse #29? PS thanks a bunch for the support, I feel like for the first time in a long time theres actual progress being made (now that Im doing it myself) :)

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Lol I like how he rants and talks shit then tries to help. Gotta love AZ.

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Yeah I dont get it but whatever. I appreciate the help I DO get, it makes guys like this tolerable.

[1killera4]

Already cleaned the box and the wire harnesses up, replaced all relays and checked the fuses in the box, they're good. Going to go through the door fuses next. I had read something about a fuse #29 that can cause the car to either not start or not crank, I'm hoping for not crank and the fuse is blown. Didn't get a chance to charge the battery today my buddy forgot my charger but used the jumper cables to no avail. Anybody know anything about the fuse #29? PS thanks a bunch for the support, I feel like for the first time in a long time theres actual progress being made (now that Im doing it myself) :)

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Yeah I dont get it but whatever. I appreciate the help I DO get, it makes guys like this tolerable.

Best of luck!

[Tenedorr]

Best of luck!

Thanks brotha. It feels pretty good to finally find a smoking gun. Here's hoping!

[Tenedorr]

Ok now I'm lost. Charging the battery, went out to check and the cars beeping like the seatbelt chime and the door open chime, every noise the car can make it's making it. The dash thing says to please press the clutch (its tiptronic) then it says please push in brake pedal before selecting gear, the fans on (it shut off when I hit the off button) and some of the dash lights are blinking, all of them are on. The whole time the key is not in the ignition. I pulled the relays one by one and nothing happened it kept on beeping. What in the hell is this? Oh yeah, no codes either. Turn the key and no crank at all. No reaction.

[grassrootz]

Ok now I'm lost. Charging the battery, went out to check and the cars beeping like the seatbelt chime and the door open chime, every noise the car can make it's making it. The dash thing says to please press the clutch (its tiptronic) then it says please push in brake pedal before selecting gear, the fans on (it shut off when I hit the off button) and some of the dash lights are blinking, all of them are on. The whole time the key is not in the ignition. I pulled the relays one by one and nothing happened it kept on beeping. What in the hell is this? Oh yeah, no codes either. Turn the key and no crank at all. No reaction.

That seems like a short. Did the lights all go away immediately once you removed the charging cables?

Something electrically is crossed since it doesn't seem like the ECU was fully engaged. And the fact the key is not in the ignition....

[Tenedorr]

That seems like a short. Did the lights all go away immediately once you removed the charging cables?

Something electrically is crossed since it doesn't seem like the ECU was fully engaged. And the fact the key is not in the ignition....

The lights and chimes and bells all stayed on until I disconnected the battery. Im wondering if maybe one of the harnesses to the relays got burned through, I just cant explain the fact that the key wasnt in the ignition and the whole "depress the clutch" light even though it's tiptronic and has no clutch. The time has come to start chasing wires unless, hopefully, theres someone out there that has had something similar happen that could point me in a direction. Ive searched but anybody with any similar symptoms have said it's the battery. I dont buy that, plus my battery is only like a year old and yes it's OEM

[thenofjboy]

Total shot in the dark but maybe leave the battery disconnected for a long time, maybe a couple hours? over night? Make sure the battery is 100% charged, test it with a volt meter, connect the battery and let it sit. Turn the ignition on, dont start it, and see what happens. Hopefully no flashing lights, beeps etc. Start it and let it run for a bit...take it for a drive..

I rem reading things in the past about TCU/TCM's getting wet and causing all types of problems. Came across these..
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...o-start-engine
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-Communication

[Tenedorr]

Total shot in the dark but maybe leave the battery disconnected for a long time, maybe a couple hours? over night? Make sure the battery is 100% charged, test it with a volt meter, connect the battery and let it sit. Turn the ignition on, dont start it, and see what happens. Hopefully no flashing lights, beeps etc. Start it and let it run for a bit...take it for a drive..

I rem reading things in the past about TCU/TCM's getting wet and causing all types of problems. Came across these..
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...o-start-engine
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-Communication

Good idea, I'm on it.

[grassrootz]

Good idea, I'm on it.

If those links don't work. You can try this. I have a MT so I can't talk to the tranny control module. But the links seem to be the answer.

You can get a 12v test lamp and keeping battery connected, you ground the lamp and methodically touch the fuses. You will be able to see which circuit is closed rather without the key in the ignition.

If it lights you have a short and then can begin pulling apart the harnesses. I did this when finding a short on a motorcycle.