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Thread: Brakes at 23k

  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings paulo6's Avatar
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    Brakes at 23k

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    So light comes on ... Dealer says pads are down to 3mm but would also replace rotors - cuz Audi "recommends" so. I never had to do so with my previous cars (replaced rotors with first pad job) I have to answer dealer quickly so I'm posting after a quick thread search I did - before I'm attacked that is :)


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    Senior Member Two Rings justr0's Avatar
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    You can visually inspect both to see if they need replacing, usually just replacing the pad's will do especially at that mileage. However if the rotors do look bad, the stealership might charge you a lot for OEM rotors+labor, might has well get that done at a indy shop and buy better rotors and save some money as well.

    Update: I ignored the light, yes you need to replace your pads and get a new brake wear sensor as well (need only 1). Everything else i said still holds true.
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  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
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    The rotors have the minimum thickens stamped on them. As long as you are within specs you should be ok just resurfacing them. No reason for new rotors. Ask you dealer what the specs are and if your rotors would be out of spec after resurfacing.

    If anything, your dealer will think twice before pushing for new rotors again.

    Edit: did a quick search. min. rotor thickness is 28mm.

  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings
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    These are all the parts you need for a front brake job if you do need to change rotors. These are as good as OEM. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...-b8s4frontbrk1

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings paulo6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebarberena View Post
    The rotors have the minimum thickens stamped on them. As long as you are within specs you should be ok just resurfacing them. No reason for new rotors. Ask you dealer what the specs are and if your rotors would be out of spec after resurfacing.

    If anything, your dealer will think twice before pushing for new rotors again.

    Edit: did a quick search. min. rotor thickness is 28mm.
    Problem dealer telling me they NO LONGER machine rotors ... Due to "claims"
    Blah blah blah" so only option through them is replacing ... "Rotors have a "deep ridge" couldn't give me a measurement but invited me over to come take a look.

    Cost $1000 but to make me feel better 10% off for $895 ...
    Paul. S4 Prem+, Grey, Optic Black, Sport Diff, Nav+, BO

  6. #6
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    Audi "recommends" = Dealer should make more profit

    And, did your old brakes work fine with this "deep ridge" ?........

    And, if you decline the new rotors, then they will say "We can't warrantee the new pads if you don't do new rotors"....

  7. #7
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Get them machined elsewhere and get new pads of your choice, everyone loves the akenbono's. I plan to move to those in the near future as mine are squeaky as shit already at 18k, plus dust monsters.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulo6 View Post
    Problem dealer telling me they NO LONGER machine rotors ... Due to "claims"
    Blah blah blah" so only option through them is replacing ... "Rotors have a "deep ridge" couldn't give me a measurement but invited me over to come take a look.

    Cost $1000 but to make me feel better 10% off for $895 ...
    Resurface discs work perfectly. I just had mine resurfaced and slotted (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ve-built/page2 por #45) they work perfectly (done some 140m/h stops with them so I know).

    I would take the car to an indie shop... What the dealer is quoting you is in line with what I've read other dealers in US charge forum members (I live in Mexico so I wouldn't know).
    Last edited by ebarberena; 05-10-2016 at 09:13 AM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Three Rings AudiSTL's Avatar
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    buy your self a kit like esc tuning or the stop tech kit from urotuning and take a day off and boom save your self some money and the knowledge of working on your own car. i just did mine over the weekend the fronts were easy 2 bolts and t30 screw and done. the rear was lil tricky but nothing a 9volt battery can't fix
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    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Even if you do not DIY, take others' advice here and buy aftermarket rotors and pads for less than $300, then have an independent shop install everything for you. I could replace front rotors and pads in 1.5 hours or less in my driveway on jackstands, so a shop should be able to do that or better. Let's say the indy shop's rate is $110/hr, even if they gouge you at 2 hours your all-in price is $300 parts + $220 labor, still $300+ less than doing it at the dealer with the 10% discount.

    Wait - is it just your front brakes, or the rears too?
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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings TexasDfwS4's Avatar
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    I replaced the pads and didn't redo the rotors and everything is fine.
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  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings paulo6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveYem View Post
    Even if you do not DIY, take others' advice here and buy aftermarket rotors and pads for less than $300, then have an independent shop install everything for you. I could replace front rotors and pads in 1.5 hours or less in my driveway on jackstands, so a shop should be able to do that or better. Let's say the indy shop's rate is $110/hr, even if they gouge you at 2 hours your all-in price is $300 parts + $220 labor, still $300+ less than doing it at the dealer with the 10% discount.

    Wait - is it just your front brakes, or the rears too?
    Front only ....
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  14. #14
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    I usually havent kept a car long enough to touch the brakes with the exception of my s2k ages ago and luckily never had to do the Z06, too many damn pads. I need to buy a few small bolts and shipping it crazy on that and since I will eventually do brakes (bought Akenbono pads today) great link in here thanks guys saved me a bunch of cash.

    I am at 18k, do I even need to resurface my rotors, slotted ones arent too costly. What other mods would you include as if I add more parts to my bucket I ll at least get free shipping.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexasDfwS4 View Post
    I replaced the pads and didn't redo the rotors and everything is fine.
    Same here. I checked all four rotors for thickness and that the surface was in good shape. New pads on and haven't had a bit of trouble. I even went back to OE pads. Yeah, they dust the rims a ton but I really like the initial bite. As long as your rotors are still in service limit for thickness and the surface is in good shape, I'd simply throw new pads at it.

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  16. #16
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    I do recommend resurfacing (or new now rotors if you want to go slotted). If you don't have a nice flat and parallel contact surface on the rotors, the new pads might not bed correctly. I don't know how much they charge in the US to resurface rotors. I paid $25.00 for all four (here in Mexico labor I cheap but you would knew that if you've been listening to Donald Trump lately) so resurfacing was a no-brainier for me. That and the facts that I did the slotting myself and that there were no slotted rotors available locally.

    Next time I do brakes I might change rotors to directional Stoptech slotted (If I don't go with Q5 calipers and Girodisc two piece floating rotors).
    Last edited by ebarberena; 05-09-2016 at 06:25 PM.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings 14S4GWM's Avatar
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  18. #18
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    I'm leasing. I assume rotors aren't covered?

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings jlaudio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebarberena View Post
    These are all the parts you need for a front brake job if you do need to change rotors. These are as good as OEM. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...-b8s4frontbrk1
    $236 is a really good price. textar makes the oem pads if i am not mistaken, these are the same as oem/dealer pads without the audi parts packaging. zimmerman rotors are a quality part.
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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings carlosvjr92's Avatar
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    Had mine done by an Audi dealership around 23k as well. Dealerships will almost always tell you you need new rotors. Indy shop or DIY is the way to go. I plan on getting my rear brakes done at a local shop soon. Would prefer to do it myself but I'm not mechanically talented enough to trust myself with that just yet lol
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  21. #21
    Registered User Four Rings XLR8 Craig's Avatar
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    I like the zimerman/akebono replacements myself if you are looking to cut down on dust and keep the car more comfortable than sporty. Otherwise I typically like to recommend the Stoptech parts. Quality stuff that is affordable. Some dealers are pretty decent when recommending services, not all of them are out to get people. So If you are handy and know cars well enough to call their bluff, inspect it yourself. I am an advocate of replacing the rotor and not re-surfacing them, just like a flywheel.. I just don't trust it. Parts are typically meant to be throwaways at this point.

    If you would like some pricing, feel free to PM me and I can help get you into a quality product.

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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Three Rings hotleadsingergu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulo6 View Post
    Problem dealer telling me they NO LONGER machine rotors ... Due to "claims"
    Blah blah blah" so only option through them is replacing ... "Rotors have a "deep ridge" couldn't give me a measurement but invited me over to come take a look.

    Cost $1000 but to make me feel better 10% off for $895 ...
    lol gtfo

    New (better) brakes are $150 or less, new (better) rotors are another $200. It's an afternoon, but you can do all of it for $350 and get much better performance and life out of it all.

    Plus you won't have massive problems with dusting and squealing in the cold, because Audi brakes are annoying.

  23. #23
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotleadsingergu View Post
    lol gtfo

    New (better) brakes are $150 or less, new (better) rotors are another $200. It's an afternoon, but you can do all of it for $350 and get much better performance and life out of it all.

    Plus you won't have massive problems with dusting and squealing in the cold, because Audi brakes are annoying.
    Mine are due to be replaced soon can you recommend?

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings MrFunk's Avatar
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    I always replace both at the same time regardless... brakes are cheap enough. Take the opportunity to go with light weight rotors and upgraded pads.

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Three Rings AerotusX's Avatar
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    I was in the same dilemma a couple of weeks ago when I needed to replace my fronts at 19K miles. I finally went with new Stoptech/Akebono combo for the fronts, plus SS lines and flushed fluid with STR600. Couldn't be happier!
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