Let the manual swap begin!

[MarlinFoundNemo]

Ladies and Gentlemen. The time has come, after 3 long hellish years, to 6mt swap my B5. Now, I won't be swapping until July (due to school and working), but I will be collecting parts and researching my ass off until then for this. I am graduating high school in t-minus one month exactly, and this is my grad present for working hard. Take notes kids ;)

The swap. All I'm missing is a clutch/fw/pp combo, and two front axles. I'm going to be stage 2 for some time to come still, so I will be going for a mid-range setup with those.

Did I mention it came with a JHM trio, updated 1-2 collars, and 034 TD mounts? :D Only 2k miles on the rebuild too!



Also, another small side project. Got this "Euro" (prefacelifted) trunk and I'm in the process of painting it! Filled in two dents, and its all primed ready for paint!



I will have many questions to come but to start off heres a few.

What clutch/fw/pp combo should I go with??? I'm thinking a LUK RS4 OEM pp/clutch with a fidanza flywheel? I've heard good reviews of both.

Can I completely swap in a 6-speed harness and not have to splice/wire in clutch pedal switch/reverse lights? I have a harness too.

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: OKAY GUYS I WONT DO FIDANZA

[Peter1.8t]

TTV flywheel with AMD stg3 clutch seems to be the crowd favorite. It performs well and has longevity under its belt. And I think it's way easier to cut and splice.

[CJ_]

Hell yeah! I really liked that Valeo single mass flywheel conversion I had. And at only $550 iirc with clutch, pp, and flywheel. It held my stage 2 power perfectly.

[MarlinFoundNemo]

TTV flywheel with AMD stg3 clutch seems to be the crowd favorite. It performs well and has longevity under its belt. And I think it's way easier to cut and splice.

Hmmm I'm not THAT rich yet ;) Trying to keep this whole swap under 2k haha. Pulled this off another thread but is this everything that needs to be spliced?

Clutch Cruise Switch -> Pin 39 ECU / Ground
Reverse -> Blue/Red / 12v Switched
Clutch Start -> Relay 53 Brown/White / Ground

Hell yeah! I really liked that Valeo single mass flywheel conversion I had. And at only $550 iirc with clutch, pp, and flywheel. It held my stage 2 power perfectly.

Yup, $550 and its really looking like I'd go with this one. All good "OEM" parts, great price, and everything I need in one package.

[vavJETTAw36]

Do not get fidanza. Clattery and chance of early failure due to premature tone ring detachment... I bought a car with it installed and I can't wait to change it.


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[Bordom]

Just buy the TTV Flywheel. It's ridiculously adorable

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[Peter1.8t]

If money is an issue then TTV flywheel and see if rockauto still has some rs4 clutches. Fidanza is a big no no on b5's. When it comes to labor intensive work like this, I'm a fan of doing it right the first time with the right parts. If that means saving up a little extra money to do so then so be it. Not sure about you guys but I strongly dislike trans pulls.

This is mainly if you have any plans to go bigger turbo/ more power down the road I might leave yourself some headroom with the clutch torque limit.

[MarlinFoundNemo]

Nooo I'm not doing the fidanza. I think I am going to do the valeo kit. I know valeo makes good stuff and I trust CJ's reviews. I will be stage 2 for a few years and thousands of miles to come. When I do my K24 RS6 build, I will put some higher end parts in there.

[Peter1.8t]

Valeo is a good option. It will hold nicely for what you have planned over the next couple years.

K24'a are another debate, but I would suggest skipping those and doing k04's if you keep the stock block. E85 and rods is another story. I've beat up on several k24 cars around here with k04's on the s4.

[Bordom]

Valeo is a good option. It will hold nicely for what you have planned over the next couple years.

K24'a are another debate, but I would suggest skipping those and doing k04's if you keep the stock block. E85 and rods is another story. I've beat up on several k24 cars around here with k04's on the s4.

No fun with F21's?

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[MarlinFoundNemo]

TTV flywheel with AMD stg3 clutch seems to be the crowd favorite. It performs well and has longevity under its belt. And I think it's way easier to cut and splice.

Valeo is a good option. It will hold nicely for what you have planned over the next couple years.

K24'a are another debate, but I would suggest skipping those and doing k04's if you keep the stock block. E85 and rods is another story. I've beat up on several k24 cars around here with k04's on the s4.

Oh yeah I wouldn't do it without rods and a place to get corn every once in awhile. If that idea fades away, itll probably be K04's. But I really wanna hit 500-550.

[Peter1.8t]

No fun with F21's?

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I actually haven't had a chance to run a F21 car. F4H yes, but doesn't really count as he was on a stg3 minus file. F21's are so similarly size to k04's anyways I would argue they are direct substitutes. Then it becomes a personal choice of do you want to save a couple hundred on a copy, or buy the genuine product.

Oh yeah I wouldn't do it without rods and a place to get corn every once in awhile. If that idea fades away, itll probably be K04's. But I really wanna hit 500-550.

Unfortunately that's the downside of living in WA. Absolutely garbage west coast gas. To put down any halfway decent numbers meth injection is required, or run e85 and just the task of obtaining e85 on the western side of the state is a feat in itself.

I look at it like this; k24 cars on stock block and pump gas some times put down attractive peak HP numbers. People are wowed and everyone goes crazy thinking they are the hottest commodity. The reality is different. You lose spool and the boost onset is typically delayed to save the motor. So if you have a halfway decent k04 car and a k24 car, both stock block. The k04 car wins time and time again. It spools faster, hits harder, and transient boost recovers much quicker in between gearshifts much quicker.

These are just things I've observed over the years first hand. I'm sure some others have completely different opinions from me, but I let real world results form my conclusions, not hypothetical internet bench racing, or inflated dyno numbers.

[MarlinFoundNemo]

Unfortunately that's the downside of living in WA. Absolutely garbage west coast gas. To put down any halfway decent numbers meth injection is required, or run e85 and just the task of obtaining e85 on the western side of the state is a feat in itself.

I look at it like this; k24 cars on stock block and pump gas some times put down attractive peak HP numbers. People are wowed and everyone goes crazy thinking they are the hottest commodity. The reality is different. You lose spool and the boost onset is typically delayed to save the motor. So if you have a halfway decent k04 car and a k24 car, both stock block. The k04 car wins time and time again. It spools faster, hits harder, and transient boost recovers much quicker in between gearshifts much quicker.

These are just things I've observed over the years first hand. I'm sure some others have completely different opinions from me, but I let real world results form my conclusions, not hypothetical internet bench racing, or inflated dyno numbers.

I will definitely run meth no doubt. I'll look more into other turbo setups down the road. And yes, our gas is trash :(

[Scotty@Advanced]

Hell yeah! I really liked that Valeo single mass flywheel conversion I had. And at only $550 iirc with clutch, pp, and flywheel. It held my stage 2 power perfectly.

Glad it worked for someone I've had installed three and had all three slip on stage II power. It's a POS as far as I'm concerned.

[MarlinFoundNemo]

Glad it worked for someone I've had installed three and had all three slip on stage II power. It's a POS as far as I'm concerned.

Interesting.. Would spending a little extra for a RS4 Clutch/PP with some other flywheel be better?

[f4m0u5]

Valeo is a good option. It will hold nicely for what you have planned over the next couple years.

K24'a are another debate, but I would suggest skipping those and doing k04's if you keep the stock block. E85 and rods is another story. I've beat up on several k24 cars around here with k04's on the s4.

I wouldnt go valeo personally. I bought my s4 with a stage 1 asp tune and a valeo clutch qith 10kmiles on it from a buddy. As soon as i installed the milltek turbo back on the car the clutch started slipping. The shop who replaced clutch for me called me mid clutch swap asking if im sure i want to replace what looks like a brand new clutch that is in the car already lol

[f4m0u5]

Interesting.. Would spending a little extra for a RS4 Clutch/PP with some other flywheel be better?

I would say yes. Go with a dmfw from rock auto for 350. Unless u want a lightweight in there. (I chose not to go lwfw route)

[MarlinFoundNemo]

I would say yes. Go with a dmfw from rock auto for 350. Unless u want a lightweight in there. (I chose not to go lwfw route)

Great idea, I didn't even think about them! Looks about 307 including shipping! Comes with hardware too I expect? I don't need a lightweight right now, so can't really justify spending more for one.

[f4m0u5]

I thought it was close to 300 but i said 350 to be saglfe lol, and. I dont remember what came woth it to be honest, but i know i bought the oem fw bolts on ecstunings website to be safe on lemgth and what not

[MarlinFoundNemo]

Are these two the same..? Same MFG# but ones drastically cheap than the other. Look identical as well.

https://www.europaparts.com/clutch-k...78198123g.html

http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Drivet...4-and-RS4.html

Edit: part numbers are NOT the same..oops

[MarlinFoundNemo]

I thought it was close to 300 but i said 350 to be saglfe lol, and. I dont remember what came woth it to be honest, but i know i bought the oem fw bolts on ecstunings website to be safe on lemgth and what not

Okay, I shall buy the bolts from them then to be safe.

[MarlinFoundNemo]

Does the SAI system NEED to be blocked off/deleted?

[Nollywood]

TTV steel single-mass is the best bang for your buck. It's lighter than the stock dual-mass item, yet still has enough mass to absorb the rattle and chatter that is present in every transmission, but are usually damped by flywheel and crank pulley weight.

I've got one, and love it.

[xalents23]

Does the SAI system NEED to be blocked off/deleted?

Delete it you don't need it with the 6 speed swap.

[MarlinFoundNemo]

Delete it you don't need it with the 6 speed swap.

It's right behind the manifold, drivers side? How do I delete it? Been searching for 30 minutes cant find any good info. I am aware of the SAI block off kit by 034 too, is that necessary?

[88ninety9]

I just made my own block off plates from aluminum. Easy peasy. Still have cel for sai though. You have to block off both heads

[xalents23]

It's right behind the manifold, drivers side? How do I delete it? Been searching for 30 minutes cant find any good info. I am aware of the SAI block off kit by 034 too, is that necessary?

Here's a link to the SAI deletion. If you are using the tiptronic heads, then yes you will need block off plates.

http://audisrs.com/archive/secondary...__t_24440.html

[MarlinFoundNemo]

Here's a link to the SAI deletion. If you are using the tiptronic heads, then yes you will need block off plates.

http://audisrs.com/archive/secondary...__t_24440.html

Thanks. Do I need two sets of those plates or one?

[Bordom]

For an extra $150 you can have a TTV flywheel with B7 RS4 clutch provisions. The repset is only $180ish

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[MarlinFoundNemo]

For an extra $150 you can have a TTV flywheel with B7 RS4 clutch provisions. The repset is only $180ish

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I see two options on their site.. One is to use the B7 RS4 clutch and one is not. Do I REALLY need to run a b7 rs4 clutch? A LUK OEM B5 RS4 should be fine for my needs.

And how much is the flywheel..? An inquiry will take too long if someone has the answer here lol

[y3ti]

its around 450 i think... been awhile since i paid for mine

[Bordom]

I see two options on their site.. One is to use the B7 RS4 clutch and one is not. Do I REALLY need to run a b7 rs4 clutch? A LUK OEM B5 RS4 should be fine for my needs.

And how much is the flywheel..? An inquiry will take too long if someone has the answer here lol

345£ for the B7 Mod, and 318£ for the standard shipped to Canada. So about $450ish USD. The B7 RS4 one is more robust and much more affordable than the B5 RS4 clutch. The SAC is also metal instead of plastic

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[MarlinFoundNemo]

345£ for the B7 Mod, and 318£ for the standard shipped to Canada. So about $450ish USD. The B7 RS4 one is more robust and much more affordable than the B5 RS4 clutch. The SAC is also metal instead of plastic

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Right now with a DMFW OEM and a LUK RS4 clutch kit, I'm looking at about $800. What'd be the total for a TTV and B7 RS4 clutch kit?

[xalents23]

Thanks. Do I need two sets of those plates or one?

Just one set.

[MarlinFoundNemo]

Just one set.

Thank you!

[Bordom]

Right now with a DMFW OEM and a LUK RS4 clutch kit, I'm looking at about $800. What'd be the total for a TTV and B7 RS4 clutch kit?

$630 approx.

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[MarlinFoundNemo]

$630 approx.

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Oh wow thats a much better deal. So I'd order the TTV "rs4" flywheel and then where do I get this hella cheap b7 rs4 clutch/pp kit haha

[Bordom]

Oh wow thats a much better deal. So I'd order the TTV "rs4" flywheel and then where do I get this hella cheap b7 rs4 clutch/pp kit haha

You get it from Rockauto. I got mine under 2008 RS4. It's a Luk repset

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[MarlinFoundNemo]

You get it from Rockauto. I got mine under 2008 RS4. It's a Luk repset

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Thank you!! This flywheel correct? http://ttvracing.com/product/audi-s4...ufacturer=audi

Next question, with the SAI delete, will one of these be a good idea as well to prevent CEL's?
http://www.performancebyie.com/integ...rectangle-plug

[MarlinFoundNemo]

About 2 weeks out from starting this. About to order parts but before I do I want to know if anyone sees something I'm missing.

Already have:

Rebuilt 01E, Rear diff, linkage, shifter box, trans mounts, driveshaft, brake booster, pedal assembly, 6mt harness, trans-motor bolts.

Need to buy:

Passenger/Driver Front CV Axles - Autozone (blah blah OEM is better. I'm not stage 3 theyll be fine)

Tip-6mt Harness (reverse/neutral safety switch)/starter switch/brake+clutch switch - Advanced Automotion

Flywheel/Clutch Install bolts - ECS Tuning

OEM Engine Mounts - ECS Tuning

SAI Blockoff Plates - 034 Motorsport

SAI/EVAP Delete Resistor - Integrated Engineering

LUK Repset B7 RS4 Clutch Kit - Rock Auto

TTV LWFW for B7 RS4 Clutch - TTV Racing

Stainless Steel Clutch Line (keeping stock slave) - USP Motorsport

All gaskets/TB done at 144k (160k now), coolant was replaced so I'll reuse that as well. Oil was just changed, not touching that.

What brake fluid do I use?