Kl.15 Supply Fuse keeps blowing

[Shhmaudi]

I keep having fuse 5 blow every time I drive.. It's labeled kl.15 supply (control unit). I am stumped because I can't find anything about it. It controls a lot of stuff, Oil temp guage, ac/heater, outside air temp, fog lights, radio.. All this stuffs not currently working with this fuse blown. Please help.

Anyone have this issue/ know where to start looking?

[phila_dot]

Ignition switched 12v terminal 15

[Shhmaudi]

Ignition switched 12v terminal 15

Is that a fuse/ relay? I just looked under instruments in vag-com and I saw this


Software Coding: 00264
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000
VCID: 2C2B87B3CF13
1 Fault Found:
00667 - Ambient Temperature Signal
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

So I am going to check that out.. Hopefully ill find something..

[Shhmaudi]

Checked the ambient temp sensor..wires look completely fine.. I did notice that my fog light hid light ballast was cracked open.. I replaced with a known good ballast. Going to replace the fuse and see what happens...

Anyone else have any ideas?

[Mille Bornes]

No ideas but mine started blowing a while ago; although mine is intermittent. It never blows instantly. Sometimes it'll be fine for months, other times minutes. The last time it blew when I hit the off button on my climate control.

Being so intermittent I haven't really looked into it but definitely curious to see what you find

[Shhmaudi]

No ideas but mine started blowing a while ago; although mine is intermittent. It never blows instantly. Sometimes it'll be fine for months, other times minutes. The last time it blew when I hit the off button on my climate control.

Being so intermittent I haven't really looked into it but definitely curious to see what you find

Do you have an aftermarket radio?

Replaced the ballast went for a drive and waited for the car to come up to temp and the fuse was fine.. Started ripping the car hard AF; fuse blew instantly.. I am at a loss with this one... Ambient temp sensor wires/ oil sensor wires are fine too..

Only thing I can think of is the aftermarket amp/radio I just installed.. Guess Ill double check that wiring.. But I would think the inline fuse would blow if a ground was fucked on the amp and/or the fuse on the back of the headunit would blow..

[dvom]

Fuses that control a lot of things are tough, disconnect the radio harness and amp turn on wire and drive it. If it still blows you need to disconnect everything possible on the circuit. If it still blows even then you could have a shorted wire and will need to run a new one. They sell fuse savers that you reset when tripped that you can use to test while you drive instead of going through fuses.

[Mille Bornes]

My radio is stock; it also continues to work after the fuse blows. You said yours does not, so that's interesting.

Let me know what you find. I'm not sure which of us is better off. Yours pops quickly so you can troubleshoot while mine is fine more often than not so it's a bit more difficult, but my air con (usually) work lol

[Shhmaudi]

Fuses that control a lot of things are tough, disconnect the radio harness and amp turn on wire and drive it. If it still blows you need to disconnect everything possible on the circuit. If it still blows even then you could have a shorted wire and will need to run a new one. They sell fuse savers that you reset when tripped that you can use to test while you drive instead of going through fuses.

good call. I was going to disconnect the radio/amp next..

My radio is stock; it also continues to work after the fuse blows. You said yours does not, so that's interesting.

Let me know what you find. I'm not sure which of us is better off. Yours pops quickly so you can troubleshoot while mine is fine more often than not so it's a bit more difficult, but my air con (usually) work lol

Very interesting indeed.. When mine blows all the circuits shut down.. bizzare tho because after the fuse pops the radio/oil temp gauge/AC & fan instantly goes, but the ambient temp on the cluster will keep showing temp for approx another min until going blank..

I will update the thread with my findings

[Shhmaudi]

Update Sunday 8th: unplugged the radio and unhooked the power from the amp. Fuse still blew. But it took a while at least 15mins into my drive. Pulled over slapped another one in(car running) and popped instantly.. Came home and double checked all my wiring(oil sensor, ambient air sensor, fog lights left and right, and for the fuck of it checked my amp/radio wires and all were legit. Even tried to simulate the load/ G's and wiggled them trying to get something to short and Nada..

Buttoned it all up and went to grab some dinner.. Drove the car Hard AF, over speed bumps etc and fuse didn't pop..

FML. I wonder if the terminals under the knee bolster have any affect?

[Shhmaudi]

Day 2 update: No blown fuse.. I drove 50mi today, with some spirited on-ramps.. Not sure if its fixed, only thing I changed yesterday was the thought to be"known good HID ballast"(from post #4) for the fog was in fact dead. Replaced it with a ballast that works great and no fuse issues.. I guess time will tell.. All my wires are good so that's all I can come up with thus far..

[patbastard]

I know this is bringing something from the grave, but did this "fix" stick?

[GSXeclipsePSI]

Any ideas to how you resolved your issue. I'm busting my brain and patience dealing wit this fuse. I've gotten it to not blow... but shortly into driving it then again blows. I've had a number of other crazy things happen to me since this issue.

This fuse became a issue after engine replacement by a friend of mine I was not there to help him much but I feel maybe he cause a short to ground n have chkd all front end wires besides the one to a.c. compressor valve on the compressor n oil temp sensor if my 2000 2.7t has one on the upper oil pan which IDK.

I've checked everything simple... I'm dieing with no heat n a.c.

Thanks

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[S4gasm aka LOTR]

Just wanted to chime in for the 2 guys above chasing a popping fuse that controls multiple units. It's very important to note; that any of the sensors tied to that fuse can fail internally and cause the shorting - and you will never be able to physically see this failure. Quite often everyone assumes a fuse popping is a bare wire exposed or rubbing somewhere, while this can be true it's important to note these sensors/actuators can fail internally and cause the short.

What you can do; if you know how to use a multi meter check for continuity with every one of those sensors with and without ignition power.
The ghetto fab way: replace the fuse, unplug one sensor at a time and start the car and see if the fuse pops. Once the fuse doesn't pop with said sensor unplugged then you found your problem. Try replacing that sensor with a new one and of course check the wiring best you can.

Of course you will need to find a wiring diagram that shows you what each fuse is tied to. There are plenty available by a quick google search. (wait until this happens with a main/ecu fuse - lots of fun)