I put this DIY together because there really seems to be no definitive pictorial transmission mount DIY for the B6 tiptronic. So I wrote this with the first time wrencher in mind since that’s how I started and I’m sure there are plenty of people that might consider taking this on if only they had some good images and a straightforward write up to follow.
I hesitated on this piece of maintenance for far too long, not sure why but now that it’s done I can say it was sorely in need of new mounts. I opted for OEM mounts as I wasn’t too excited about adding any more NVH to the cabin. The car is only stage 1+ and being a tiptronic I didn’t see any need to for an upgrade to an aftermarket part. The idle is very smooth now and shifting gears is almost unnoticeable. I can only assume my mounts were original so with 134k miles they were sorely in need of a swap out. As always while working under a 2 ton hunk of metal and plastic be safe, don't kill yourself, I'm not responsible if you do.

Tools needed:
Lift, jack stands, ramps, you get the drift.
17mm socket and breaker bar or your choice of lug removal tool
17mm box end wrench
16mm socket
13mm socket
10mm socket
Assortment of extensions: 3”, 10” and 15”
Beer (preferably a nice double IPA that you brewed at home and have been salivating over for the last 6 weeks while it conditions)



First thing was getting the car high enough to work under while keeping it level. Remove both front wheels.
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This is a perfect time for a beer.



Now position your jack appropriately using a nice chunk of wood (preferably a board and not plywood) to support your transmission just in front of the mounts. Note the mount is the donut shaped ring of metal in between the subframe and the transmission belly pan that the jack is directly under.
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Loosen the offending bolts. This is the driver’s side.
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The two 13mm bolts on either side holding the mount to its bracket were a bit seized but ultimately didn’t present much of a challenge. The 16mm nut in the center is what’s actually holding the transmission onto the mount along with its associated bolt . No need for JB weld for these two as I found mentioned in a couple spots. Just a 17mm box end on the top and your 16mm socket below.


Top side, dead center in the pic is the transmission mount bracket with the offending bolt, this is the driver’s side which has plenty of clearance and makes this side a piece of cake.
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This is the passenger’s side where the bolt is covered by a heat shield that you can see part of immediately above the bolt. You’ll need to bend this shield out of the way to get the clearance needed to pull the bolt out. A 10mm bolt is holding the shield on to the bracket. I removed this and bent the hell out of the shield. Ultimately I employed the use of my air hammer as I just couldn’t find the right sized pry to get the damn thing out of the way. Whew! Time for another beer.
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Once you’ve removed these on both sides it’s time to jack the transmission ever so gently. Just enough to lift the transmission off the mounts so you can swing them out, maybe a 1/4” to 1/2”. I found that jiggling and twisting them then rotating them out by swinging the back ends in toward the transmission was the easiest. Of course you could just get more clearance by raising the transmission higher but I opted for the cautious route.
Once the old mounts are out just slide the new mounts in, you may need to raise the transmission a bit more if your mounts are really old like mine were. Mine were a good 1/8”-1/4” shorter. Once they’re in get everything bolted back up but not tightened then start the car and let it idle for a few minutes before torquing everything back up. Make sure to use Loctite on the 4, 13mm bolts holding the mounts to the frame. Reassemble and enjoy your ride again!
I suggest loosening your engine and snub mounts while doing this to get everything seated nicely. I did this with the snub because I noticed it touching its bracket and now that I’ve driven the car with the new mounts I’m sure if I had re-seated the engine mounts at the same time it’d be hard to tell if the engine was even on.