Removing rear lower control arm

[JNJ]

Hey guys

I'm in the process of installing new suspension. Three corners are done but my right rear side has a major snag. Whoever installed the previous set up put the top camber bolt into the rear lower shock mount. It's completely seized to the shock bushing. It won't turn or punch out. My thought process was remove the lower control arm and take it all out as one. Once on the ground I'll have a lot more options to get the lower bolt off.

Am I right in thinking disconnect rear brake hardline, remove two inner bolts and then the lower bolt that connects to Hub and the whole thing will drop out? I have the forward most bolt out under the tank but wanted to double check before I went further.

[Bordom]

You'll also have to disconnect the axle to be able to remove the upright and shock tower assembly. You must also brake a plastic clip that holds the parking brake to remove the cable.

You're on the right track

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[JNJ]

Why would I have to disconnect the rear axle? I do t see how that would get in the way.

[JNJ]

Next question. If I disconnect just hat one brake line will I need to bleed all four calipers or just that one caliper?

[richardodn]

Really just that one as long as you don't let the fluid drip. Quick tip: use 1/4" rubber vacuum port caps to cap brake hard lines. As an aside, when was the last time the brakes were flushed? If it's been 2 years or more, it's time to flush the system.

[Bordom]

Next question. If I disconnect just hat one brake line will I need to bleed all four calipers or just that one caliper?

Bleed the rear half of the car. No need to do the front.

Why would I have to disconnect the rear axle? I do t see how that would get in the way.

What top camber bolt are you talking about? Any of the bolts pictured here?


The only camber adjustement is on the outer most part of the lower control arm connected to the spindle.

Here's a diagram so we can both understand better


You must remove the rear axle or disconnect it from the diff/spindle to be able to remove the lower control arm if any of the bolts are siezed there (more likely than not they will be seized), the upright must come with it because the camber accentric will be siezed as well.

You will have to remove the the parking brake cable regardless of what you choose

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[JNJ]

The four 17mm bolts for the strut housing have been removed. The 18&19mm bolt for the spindle arm and upper control arm has been removed. The 18&19 eccentric bolt was installed in the lower shock hole and the shock bolt 19&19mm was installed for the upper bolt. My issue is the lower shock bolt is seized to the shock bushing. The nut is off but the bolt will not come out.

The three lower control arm bolts can turn and be removed. None of them are seized. Does that make sense?

[walky_talky20]

Really? Somebody put an eccentric bolt in the lower shock mount? Hilarious.

Never had a problem with that shock bolt seizing, though. Always the outer bolt on the lower control arm (where the eccentric bolt should be). That one is always seized to the bushing badly.

I'd probably try hitting with an air hammer. With any luck, that would be enough and you wouldn't need to mess around taking the entire car apart. Have you tried hitting the bolt with an impact? That might rattle it enough for it let go. Or it will just rip the bushing. But you're replacing that anyway. Worth a shot.

[JNJ]

Put it all back together and drove to a shop haha. I'm done working with this