Drop-in rods...what else?

[Wagonholic]

Been a while since the last time I posted here, but I've got an upcoming project. I'm planning some upgrades on my car, and one of the major tasks is that I'm going to install some RPM rods (already have them) while the motor is out. As we all know firsthand, builds always have unexpected surprises, but I would like to ask those of you who have installed rods what other maintenance items you did while the motor was apart? I've done a lot of research, but I feel that there was no clear definitive thread on what should be done when installing.

Here is what I'm planning:
-New rod bearings
-New piston rings
-Gaskets (head gaskets, intake manifold, exhaust mainfold, valve cover, cranshaft seal, cam seals, oil pan)
-Headbolts
-Oil pan
-Electric fan conversion

The car is also due for a timing belt service, so I will be doing a Continental timing belt (don't want to have the Gates timing belt squeal lol)

While the motor is apart, I'll take it to a machine shop for cylinder honing (due to new piston rings), cylinder head resurfacing, and block decking. Might as well since machine work isn't too expensive.

Should I do the rear main seal as well?

I'm pretty sure I'm missing a few things, so if there are any suggestions you guys have I'm open to anything.

[S4tech2]

I would definitely do both the front and rear main seals. The front seal is similar to the cam seals where as the rear is a flange type. May as well do this stuff so you won't have to later on.

[y3ti]

You aren't planning to balance the rotating assembly?

[Wagonholic]

You aren't planning to balance the rotating assembly?

Nope, not exactly necessary since I'm not building the head and revving to 8k lol. Most people don't anyway when doing the drop-in route, and the set of rods I have already has matched weights.

[S4tech2]

Nope, not exactly necessary since I'm not building the head and revving to 8k lol. Most people don't anyway when doing the drop-in route, and the set of rods I have already has matched weights.

That's what some people do, but he also isn't shooting for 750hp and running 40psi. He doesn't have to balance if he is shooting for a power goal of let's say 550. He is building to his financial needs and power goals is what it sounds like to me.

[Wagonholic]

That's what some people do, but he also isn't shooting for 750hp and running 40psi. He doesn't have to balance if he is shooting for a power goal of let's say 550. He is building to his financial needs and power goals is what it sounds like to me.

I should be okay at 749hp and 39psi then, right? Lol

[zillarob]

"Drop-in" and "rods" in the same sentence gives me the heeby jeebys.

[y3ti]

Even though the rods are matched to each other, they aren't matched to the crank.

When I took my assembly in to have it balanced, the RPM rods had a decent amount of material removed from them.

I only bring it up because I was recommended to balance it by an engine builder.

What else do you have planned for the avant?

[Drehmoment]

What turbos and fuel are you planning to run......if you say Chicom K24 on SoCal piss pump you will not be needing rods. I would not crack open a well running good compression motor for the above. E85 or 605 /770's for sure.

[Wagonholic]

Even though the rods are matched to each other, they aren't matched to the crank.

When I took my assembly in to have it balanced, the RPM rods had a decent amount of material removed from them.

I only bring it up because I was recommended to balance it by an engine builder.

What else do you have planned for the avant?

I think we're all entitled to our own opinions. Personally I don't feel it is necessary (at my power goals), and I know several people who just dropped the rods in and called it a day with no issues. The block would probably let go before the rods do anyway lol.

What turbos and fuel are you planning to run......if you say Chicom K24 on SoCal piss pump you will not be needing rods. I would not crack open a well running good compression motor for the above. E85 or 605 /770's for sure.

SRM K24/RS6. On 91, 91/meth (majority of time), and E85.

Like I said, I'm not completely eliminating the possibility of getting the rotating assembly balanced. My main purpose of this thread was to see if I had skipped over anything, and I appreciate the feedback so far.

[y3ti]

Just trying to help.

[rockcandy]

I think we're all entitled to our own opinions. Personally I don't feel it is necessary (at my power goals), and I know several people who just dropped the rods in and called it a day with no issues. The block would probably let go before the rods do anyway lol.



SRM K24/RS6. On 91, 91/meth (majority of time), and E85.

Like I said, I'm not completely eliminating the possibility of getting the rotating assembly balanced. My main purpose of this thread was to see if I had skipped over anything, and I appreciate the feedback so far.

To waste your time going to a machine shop and not having the assembly balanced is ridiculous. Have you inquired about cost through a local machine shop? It's typically a couple hundred bucks while they're there. No brainier imo. To be honest, Your power goals have absolutely nothing to do with whether or not a motor should be balanced.

[achb5]

Cost me 150$ to have rotating assembly balanced up in Denver a month ago. Def worth it in my opinion.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Would def. get the rotating parts balanced... It's not expensive. Certainly less then having some other sort of failure possibly caused by no doing it.

FWIW, What RPM you're actually going to run has nothing to do with balancing the assembly, so when you say that you're not going to turn to 8k that doesn't mean anything.

[MacDaddy]

I would definitley do all the seals, you will be kicking yourself if you dont

- - - Updated - - -

Knife edge the crank if your getting it balanced

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Knife edge the crank if your getting it balanced

That I would avoid personally

[Bordom]

That I would avoid personally

Why?

Everything graciously mispelled by Android

[GrapeBandit]

Why?

Everything graciously mispelled by Android

serves almost no purpose on a forced induction engine. also, the only audi crank i seen bend was a knife edged 1.8t crank.

-puts more load on crank bearings
-crank will start to flex a bit more at higher revs and can lead to a premature failure
-power gains to risk factor=not worth it

[Wagonholic]

Cost me 150$ to have rotating assembly balanced up in Denver a month ago. Def worth it in my opinion.

If that is the case, then it's a no brainer lol.

I would definitley do all the seals, you will be kicking yourself if you dont

That is being planned, and I believe I have all the seals covered (no pun intended) in my original post

[Wagonholic]

Again, appreciate the feedback from everyone. I just wanted to make sure I had all the bases covered before I began the build, and it looks like balancing the rotating assembly was something I had originally missed.

I will be starting a build thread in the next couple of weeks when everything begins to unfold. Oh, and I will have many K04 parts and turbos for sale as well once this is complete lol. In the meantime, any more suggestions/feedback is always appreciated; not just for me, but for others planning to do similar modifications.

[y3ti]

balancing the rotating assembly is definitely going to cost you more than $150 all said and done. Taking out the crank requires new front and rear main seals, new main bearings, new main studs ($$$) or bolts, and thrust washers.

You will need to take in the crank, pistons w/ rings, rods, flywheel, clutch, and all the hardware.

That's just off the top of my head... I could be missing something.

[Bordom]

Again, appreciate the feedback from everyone. I just wanted to make sure I had all the bases covered before I began the build, and it looks like balancing the rotating assembly was something I had originally missed.

I will be starting a build thread in the next couple of weeks when everything begins to unfold. Oh, and I will have many K04 parts and turbos for sale as well once this is complete lol. In the meantime, any more suggestions/feedback is always appreciated; not just for me, but for others planning to do similar modifications.

Interested in K04s provided they're in good condition

Everything graciously mispelled by Android

[ElementR]

I would definitely balance the rotating assembly. A good shop can do it for $200-300 tops. As these engines are internally balanced, they will not need the crank damper or flywheel. They will need your crank and one piston + rod + piston rings + rod bearings + wrist pin/locks.

[MacDaddy]

serves almost no purpose on a forced induction engine. also, the only audi crank i seen bend was a knife edged 1.8t crank.

-puts more load on crank bearings
-crank will start to flex a bit more at higher revs and can lead to a premature failure
-power gains to risk factor=not worth it

cool story bro, if your going to make stuff up next time make it believable.

[jaychen]

cool story bro, if your going to make stuff up next time make it believable.

lul

[GrapeBandit]

cool story bro, if your going to make stuff up next time make it believable.

lul

such a cool story that you have no fucking clue what you are talking about. maybe do some research on it before you open your mouth next time, because i am 100% correct.

why dont you shoot an email to say integrated engineering, al at pag parts, or any competent forced induction engine builder about this topic, then post a screenshot of their response, then we will see who is loling at who.

[jaychen]

such a cool story that you have no fucking clue what you are talking about. maybe do some research on it before you open your mouth next time, because i am 100% correct.

why dont you shoot an email to say integrated engineering, al at pag parts, or any competent forced induction engine builder about this topic, then post a screenshot of their response, then we will see who is loling at who.

calm down princess.

[MacDaddy]

You are 100% correct you say? Anyone worth listening to doesn't make a claim like that.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Why?

Everything graciously mispelled by Android

For me it's always about a balance... Street cars, especially AWD cars like/need rotating mass IMO. Makes them happier and easier to drive. Same goes for light FW's... too light and it's just not happy.

I tend to advise people away from race car modifications for their street cars.