Timing belt tension

[RagtagXMASTER]

So i have a few threads so far with dumb problems but im trying to learn as much as possible so please excuse me if this sounds dumb.

I have a timing belt on my car and i think its loose. It wiggles easily and can twist some were there is suppose to be no slack.

The question is does this need to be tightened and if i do will it go out of time. Or if i dont tension it up will it be harmful.

Thanks in advance guys sorry to keep bugging everyone with my dumb problems.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rodgman15]

General rule of thumb, it should put up solid resistance when you twist it 90 degrees. Here's I.E.'s manual tensioner video, get it close to that lol

https://youtu.be/nuBp85bzfnM

[RagtagXMASTER]

i uploaded a small clip of the play to youtube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul5d...ature=youtu.be

io can easily twist it but this just feels so loose, i could easily slide the belt off the cam gear by slowly wiggling off

[vrmm]

I know I'm always sketched out when I feel my belt like you did in that video. I don't think I have that much, but I'll check tomorrow. Try the 90 degree thing rodgman talked about. The belt before the cam gear is gonna be tighter given that there isn't such a big distance between tensioner/pulley/cam and I choose to believe that's what matters :) In general it's just gonna have more play than you'd expect. It's possible your tensioner is toast and is fully compressed 100% of the time, but I'd doubt that.

[RagtagXMASTER]

The tensioner only has like 10k miles oem audi. But i cranked the bolt that holds the extra pulley on to hold it all in place if i loosen that a little i think it will snug up im just mervous about throwing it out of time or the belt jumping


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[walky_talky20]

...I cranked the bolt that holds the extra pulley on to hold it all in place if i loosen that a little i think it will snug up

I'm not certain what you are talking about here, but we should probably discuss this in more detail.

We should probably start the discussion by determining what engine you have, so we know what timing parts we are dealing with. If you have a 2001 AWM, you will need to specify what the large roller looks like. There are 3 different versions.

Version 1 (no adjustment):


Version 2 (static adjustable eccentric):


Version 3 (dynamic, spring loaded, auto adjuster for use without a hydraulic tensioner/damper)

[RagtagXMASTER]

I have an awm car mine looks just like version 2


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RagtagXMASTER]

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES1306812/ this is the one from my order i placed at ecs last january


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RagtagXMASTER]

Also i am sorry about confusing this roller with the oem audi part. My orm audi one snapped at the auto adjust point from the pressure of the hdraulic tensioner. So this was its replacement. I totally forgot about that so this was oe aftermarket replacement.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[walky_talky20]

Do you understand the workings of, and know how to properly adjust the eccentric? Did you successfully employ said knowledge to obtain a hydraulic tensioner protrusion of 6-10mm on install day?

[RagtagXMASTER]

I went to 5 mm. The original kit i purchased same version style had some instructions on setting to 5mm btween tensioner and roller arm. Once i reached that point i tightened it down.

As for understanding it then i was not 100%. I really tightened that bolt down because i was more nervous on braking another hydraulic tensioner arm. I had a prior mtc tensioner and the push rod snapped in half and the roller and broken off. So i tried to make this roller as tight as possible to not move.

Thanks for the help here walky


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RagtagXMASTER]

So i spun the motor by clicking the key and saw that the belt doesnt jump arpund or anything. And wen i put it at tdc its really nice and snug. I dont know why shortly after it gets so loose i have another video ill upload to youtube and show what im talking about


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RagtagXMASTER]

Video of what im taking about with it at tdc. http://youtu.be/YmVtqBU4FPo


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rodgman15]

If I had to take a guess it almost seems like something is goofy with the eccentric. Nice and tight in one spot, but loose in another? I'd guess the eccentric pulley is spinning on its mount, causing high/low spots. I've been wrong before though!

[RagtagXMASTER]

if i lossen the bolt on it and spin the crank i am assuming it will give more tension. when it becomes too tight with the bolt still loose. will the roller arm force the tensioner rod back into the tensioner? its very well possible that i didnt torque that bolt correctly. i didnt use a torque wrench on it, i didn't have one at the time, i just recently purchased one when i did my timing chain tensioner.

[walky_talky20]

The amount of tension (the tightness) of the belt is not adjustable. The only adjustment you have is the eccentric. That adjuster merely changes where the hydraulic unit is in it's travel. If you adjust the eccentric incorrectly, the hydraulic unit will not be in an ideal position. Too aggressive and the protrusion is too small. When the belt system gets hot, it may not have enough room to relax. Too lax on the adjustment and the hydraulic unit will be nearly fully extended and unable to extend further as the belt wears. The adjustment does not increase or decrease the tension (unless you are at the extremes - fully extended or fully compressed).

The tension on the belt should be checked at TDC. At other positions there can be different forces on the belt. If the head is in a spot where it wants to spring forward, that force will pull against the tensioner and deposit slack on the front side of the belt where the tensioner can do nothing about it. This is normal. There is a possibility for this aspect to be exacerbated, however. The hydraulic unit could be very weak and far too easily overcome by the force from the cylinder head (valve springs).

Bottom line, if you're paranoid about it, you should probably install the newest spring-loaded tensioner that does not have a hydraulic component or a tensioner arm. Version 3, above.

[RagtagXMASTER]

Thanks for the input walky makes me feel much better about this. I like this car alot and put a lot of work into it so far. So wen i do my next timing belt in 40k miles ill go with whatever the latest revision is. I'll check on the belt regularly to make sure it is ok. But thanks a lot for all the help here


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[walky_talky20]

If you want the latest stuff, you'll have be proactive and look for it. Most of the resellers like ECS, Europa, etc are not listing or promoting the new non-hydraulic setup.

Also, for the forum readership, this hot new stuff is for 2001 AWM and up only. Not applicable to AEB or ATW.