My 1.9L EFR7064 build

[spindoctor]

Good day boys,

Thought I'd unveil my build to you guys. Been collecting parts and going through all the headaches. Thanks to Jaychen, Mike Hood, NPC performance clutches, Works by Wilson, JHH racing, Integrated Engineering, Full-Race, Geir of Rosten Performance, JNL racing and heaps more who are not here for the assistance.

Here's the list of my goodies :-

JE FSR Asymmetrical 83mm forged Pistons
Integrated Engineering 144mm Tuscan Rods
Integrated Engineering manual timing belt tensioner
Integrated Engineering -10 oil drain flange
83mm head gasket undisclosed thickness
ARP head studs
ARP main studs
Mahle Motorsports/Vanderwell big end bearing set
Mahle Motorsports/Vanderwell main bearing set
Calico coated Intermediate Shaft Bearing
3M/EKAgrip crankgear friction shim
OEM thrust bearing
OEM pilot bearing
ARP crank bolt
Continental Timing Belt
Sachs updated slave cylinder
NPC performance custom modified pressure plate 3200ft/lbs clamping rate with custom Exedy 8 puck ceramic button clutch
Ringer racing flywheel bolt
SpecClutch 240mm 16lbs flywheel, resurfaced by NPC performance
**Block hot tanked, balanced, blueprinted rotating assembly, torque plate'd & machined, work done By Works by Wilson, Southport Gold Coast

JNL racing custom built and ported AGU cylinder head, reshaped combustion chamber/squish band
Supertech uprated valvetrain kit
SS inlet valves
Inconel exhaust valves
Integrated Engineering adjustable Camshaft sprocket
Integrated Engineering CVA2 camshaft
INA hydraulic lifters
New cam chain tensioner pad
New OEM cam chain
Integrated Engineering Intake Manifold
68mm VR6 OBD2 throttle body
AGN valve cover
Saikoumichi 3 port air/oil separator can

Borg Warner EFR7064 Twin Scroll T4 0.92 exhaust housing-ceramic coated
Full-Race Motorsport T4 twin scroll EFR manifold-ceramic coated
Full-Race Motorsport EFR downpipe-ceramic coated
Inconel studs, cone type lock nuts + SS nordlocks
OEM exhaust studs, washers+ lock nuts
Evolution Racewerks competition intercooler kit
*Custom 3.5 inch turbo inlet pipe + AEM dry filter
Treadstone Performance oil drain flange for EFR
Treadstone Performance custom banjo for EFR
PTP turbo blanket for EFR
*Speedflow fittings and braided lines

Eurodyne Maestro Tuning Suite 7
Fuel Injector Connection 1150cc single tip injectors
Treadstone performance 12mm injector spacers
Bosch Motorsport 044 fuel pump(to be replaced with walbro 450)
Gizzmo IBC-R electronic boost controller
ICM delete mod-done by yours sincerely
Zeitronix ZT2 wideband controller + ZR1 multi gauge display
Defi racer 45psi boost gauge

Koni coilover suspension
Custom Performance Products(CPP) adjustable rose jointed upper control arms
Meyle HD lower control arms
Adjustable rear sway bar link with rose jointed ends
Stern RH transmission mount
034 Motorsport LH transmission mount
Stern street density engine mounts
Whiteline rear away bar
JH Motorsport solid shifter kit
JH Motorsport weighed, knurled gear knob

Custom Wilwood 332mm 2pc rotor and lightweight mounting bell
Wilwood 6 pot dynalite ultra lightweight calipers
Custom adaptors made in house at Wilwood


As I'm space limited, I had to resort to working on my car outdoor. :(






Out goes the psi concepts 20G kit. It's been very very reliable and never ever had issues of the nuts undoing itself.





Test fitted the full race manifold and EFR7064 as well as the IE manifold. A bit concerned with the clearance to the strut tower, only have 2mm at most. Hopefully the stiff stern mount helps.






So pulled out the motor with my brother in law's help



Whilst waiting for the engine to be rebuilt, this is how it looks like after cleaning.





^^thats also when, silly me I played around with the slave cylinder, causing it to leak and possible f*cking up the clutch master cylinder too :/

Anyway pics from the engine builder








FYI there was an updated version for the oil squirter bolts(relief valve)



Pics of my cylinder head done by "JP" of JNL racing UK











It's in!( that's what she said)



This is where the headache come in. Head guy said use a friction shim off a TFSI motor(comes from factory) and engine builder didn't ring me to inform me that they were the wrong ones. Had to order the correct one through Geir of Rosten Performance. Now some may ask why I didn't use dowel pins. I had a chat with 3 reputable engine builders, one being a friend of mine who built import drag motors eg 1500hp RB26 motor. All of them agree that it's the tension by the clamping force induced by the crank bolt that prevents it from moving, which then cause the keyway to sheer. The keyway is just a locator. Also Afaik, Mike Hood's setup never had any of the fancy bolts, pins yet still had no issues when pushing 650whp upwards.



I followed the recommended 72ft/lbs + 1/4 or 90 degree turn by ARP. The last 20 degree or so is nuts. Gotta use body weight and a pipe to get the last of it.



So head studs torque'd. Cams timed as per OE although spec sheet would be a hell lot nicer so you know LCAs etc. Ah well :/









Now here's the weird part. Unsure about America but I found out there's variations in the big port heads where the tensioner stud sits. I installed the timing belt and spun it around. But me being me, I spun it several times and noted the belt would wanna go out!

Had to grind off this surface by about 3mm to get the belt seated properly.





To those of you who wants to run the AGN shaved head on an 058 motor, you need to remove a few mm from the valve cover as it will rub on the cam gear.



So me being me again, I got the injector guy to check and clean my 1150cc injectors that I bought second hand off a friend who, bought it off "doctor" a member here from Greece.



Because it hasn't been used for awhile, one injector was "sleeping" as you can see from the video.

After verifying it was ok, it was sonic cleaned.



This is where I'm at.










Now gotta figure out why the hell my slave ain't bleeding.


More updates later.

[demonmk2]

wow!

what kind of power are you going for?

[spindoctor]

950whp. :p

Nah :) just 400whp on a dyno dynamics. Anything more is a bonus for sure which fingers crossed I should be able to make as I'll be running E85.

I just want a very usable powerband 4K-8k rpm as I will be using the car more on track days.

[a4kamila6]

god damn

[demonmk2]

definitely post some graphs when you get it dynoed

very interested in the power band as well.

[spindoctor]

Will definitely post.

[nynoah]

[rodgertherabit]

should have no problem hitting 400 with thatt combo!

[spindoctor]

On a dyno dynamics that we have here, yes. They're the heart breaker of dynos :)

[coolgraymemo]

#goals

[Davdraco1]

So I now have a new life goal...

[jaychen]

been a long time coming. 2k16 is a good year for B5's in Australia

time to flex this car on some jap and euro locals.

[spindoctor]

been a long time coming. 2k16 is a good year for B5's in Australia

time to flex this car on some jap and euro locals.

Thanks to you Jaychen. You know I've been on my ups and downs(x 300) and nearly abandoning the build. Yes, 2k16 will be an very interesting one for B5s here in Australia. :)

[a4kamila6]

Probably push 1000 ft/lbs of torque or am I smoking too much?

[ray4624]

Probably push 1000 ft/lbs of torque or am I smoking too much?

lol cut that in half.
These cars produce torque numbers that are right under the hp numbers. Its just how they are designed.
Its not a diesel that makes 1200ftlbs with 600hp

[a4kamila6]

Oh shit I was thinking this was the 1.9l diesel engine. Facepalm

[Avant Nate]

Only thing I would have changed is the 7163 over the 7064. More power same spool.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Awesome ! I like that valve cover, look forward to seeing how you make out. I think 400-450 should be easy with all that hardware

maybe I missed it in that long list what trans are you going to run? 01A or 01E? I believe when you start getting around 450 500 the 01A starts to get unhappy.

Whats the slave doing that is not beading? what have you tried?

[spindoctor]

Only thing I would have changed is the 7163 over the 7064. More power same spool.

I haven't seen a side by side comparison of the 7064 and 7163 so I wouldn't know. If you have a link of a dyno comparison, that would be great.

[spindoctor]

Awesome ! I like that valve cover, look forward to seeing how you make out. I think 400-450 should be easy with all that hardware

maybe I missed it in that long list what trans are you going to run? 01A or 01E? I believe when you start getting around 450 500 the 01A starts to get unhappy.

Whats the slave doing that is not beading? what have you tried?

Thank you. The valve cover looks tidy indeed. But yeah, watch out and grind off the bit with an 80 grit flapadisc and take your time cause that thing removes aluminium very quick.

I'm stuck with 01A as the 01E is not readily available here hence why I kept the power levels low so I can preserve the gearbox.

New slave not bleeding. Followed all procedure known and that includes reverse bleeding. Gonna see if I had damaged the hardline when I jacked up the transmission but highly doubt it. Leaning highly towards the master now.

I'll keep you guys posted.

[spindoctor]

A little update for you guys..

So I bought Speedflow fitting's which punched a hole in my pocket. Most of the top end build here use them.



I got the ER comp intercooler repaired too after I found it to be dented at the end tank pipe. That's fixed up and I tested fitted it.





I got the lines measured up and tested fitted them as well.



Turbo inlet sorted...well sorta. I'll get a hard pipe done at a later stage so I can get tube welded for a line connected to the air/oil separator can.




Next up would be the intercooler hot side pipe and then exhaust which means I can start up the car then :)



More to come .. ..

[GrapeBandit]

nice build.i know you were talking about the crank gear keyway, i suggest you add a dowel pin(or 2) for insurance. i had 2 engines ruined from broken keyways

[redline380]

Thank you for posting this! I have been wondering for 4 years why my belt rides off the gear. Next time it is apart, I am totally grinding it down.

Now here's the weird part. Unsure about America but I found out there's variations in the big port heads where the tensioner stud sits. I installed the timing belt and spun it around. But me being me, I spun it several times and noted the belt would wanna go out!

Had to grind off this surface by about 3mm to get the belt seated properly.

[spindoctor]

nice build.i know you were talking about the crank gear keyway, i suggest you add a dowel pin(or 2) for insurance. i had 2 engines ruined from broken keyways

Mind me asking ..what was the torque settings that you used?

[spindoctor]

Thank you for posting this! I have been wondering for 4 years why my belt rides off the gear. Next time it is apart, I am totally grinding it down.

That's what happened to mine before I grinded it off.



It was until 2 of my "gurus" who saw my post on facebook's audi performance build and projects group that they've seen variations where the tensioner sits. I always thought they're all the same.

Would suggest you to machine it off if the head is out. If not, just run a 40 grit flapadisc like I did and slowly remove the metal and use a small ruler or small straight edge to make sure it's flat.

[GrapeBandit]

Mind me asking ..what was the torque settings that you used?

i used whatever the factory spec was with a new factory bolt. one was 06a block and one was 058 block.

now i am goin fo use a 2 dowel pin system and arp bolt

[spindoctor]

I'm not a fan of drilling the crank. I had discussed this matter to 3 highly experienced/knowledgeable engine builders , one of them have a massive experience ranging from 1000hp 4G63 to 1500hp RB26 motors as well as outright and class winning world time attack race motors.

All of them agree that it's the clamping force that actually hold the crankgear in place. The keyway is just there to locate it. If you allow it to move even the slightest, it will break the keyway.

One of the 3 engine builders I mentioned had built a 9sec golf in UK that ran OEM crank bolt(with higher than OEM spec tension applied) as well as a 3M friction shim like this on mine. Never had issues for the last 4 years.



As a side note, Mike Hood never had ARP bolt, dowel pin or dowel pin.


Ps : ok, I'll let out a secret. The torque setting used is above 100Nm + 90 degree.

Factory is 90Nm + 90 degrees

[chris164935]

I went with the ARP bolt, IE press fit gear, and the friction shim. Hope it stays together! Also installed a Fluidampr pulley with the 6-bolt setup. Used some ARP stainless studs to secure it to the crank gear.

[spindoctor]

Lucky you. I got the wrong shim. FYI they're the same used on the mk5 golf GTi.

I'll see how mine stack up. Confident it'll be ok.

[RoadRage]

primo build.

[demonmk2]

^ so that shim will work? for a mk5 gti.... also can you give more info on where you bought the updated oil squirters?

[GrapeBandit]

^ so that shim will work? for a mk5 gti.... also can you give more info on where you bought the updated oil squirters?

how is the shim going to stop the keyway from breaking under pressure if the keyway is weak? dowel pins are the safer way

[ray4624]

he is saying the keyway has nothing to do with actually holding the gear in place. Its the torque of the bolt that holds it there so the shim will help with that.

[GrapeBandit]

he is saying the keyway has nothing to do with actually holding the gear in place. Its the torque of the bolt that holds it there so the shim will help with that.

obviously the torque of the bolt didnt stop my 2 keyways from shearing, or the other thousands of ppl who had the same problem. these arenot isolated incidents, these things break.

with the dowel pins, it cant jump timing, even if the bolt backs out a little

[chris164935]

I believe the 5 valve/cylinder V8 motors came with a shim that will work as well.

If I remember correctly, the stock gear's play on the crank nose allows it to move under higher than normal loads causing the stock bolt to come loose and, well, you know what happens after that. The dowel pin might help, but you're still left with the stock powdered metal gear which can become weakened from torqueing the crank bolt or drilling a hole in it for a dowel pin. The friction shim is supposed to help with the play, but I couldn't risk the thousands of dollars of engine parts on the stock gear, so to me $200 was worth the press fit billet metal gear.

[spindoctor]

I believe the 5 valve/cylinder V8 motors came with a shim that will work as well.

If I remember correctly, the stock gear's play on the crank nose allows it to move under higher than normal loads causing the stock bolt to come loose and, well, you know what happens after that. The dowel pin might help, but you're still left with the stock powdered metal gear which can become weakened from torqueing the crank bolt or drilling a hole in it for a dowel pin. The friction shim is supposed to help with the play, but I couldn't risk the thousands of dollars of engine parts on the stock gear, so to me $200 was worth the press fit billet metal gear.

Yes that's exactly what I was advised by the guy who built the 9sec Golf in UK, who also built my head. As you said, drilling the 2 holes is a no no for me.

Geir Rosten of Rosten Performance supplied me the right friction shim.

Anyone seen the factory crank gear split or cracked before due to over-torqueing? Pics would be good.

I wonder if they crack as a result of using a high powered impact to tighten it up? Very unlikely when undoing it though.

[Dan[FN]6262]

Looking great man!

I pinned the crank gear on my car, didn't mess with the friction disks. I love my 6758 EFR, I can't wait to see how this hammer runs

[spindoctor]

Sweet holy mother Mary and baby Jesus, this guy is back! LOL

Where's your B6 dude?

More pics and an old video on Instagram btw

@borneoeuro

[thrilos5]

Good job

[Dan[FN]6262]

Sold it to a dude, he sucked about 13 gallons of water into it, destroyed the engine. He only had it for 3 days. I just finished getting it running for him again, we built a stroker for it instead of staying 1.8L.

Following.