Tips for the novice 1/4 mile runners!

[TexasDfwS4]

Hello all,
I have been flashed from the start of Unitronics 3.0 venture and love it. I for the first time ever took the car to the track and ran a 12.617. But when I got there a found myself asking way to many question and still ended up not doing the proper steps for a good time, but I had a good time lol.

Questions:
1. Is there a checklist of all the items that need to be addressed. i.e. A/C, L/C, time between laps (subject to everything, heat etc...)
2. Should we try to use the water/burnout or drive around.
3. And what is the best way to record/document your times. I had friend say prove it.

I Just flashed from home the new Unitronic flash they have that asks that you have a cold water system which I don't, but I think and have asked others (Mike) that it should be fine. I'm going to the track again to see if I can improve on the maiden voyage. 4/29

[jran76]

Hello all,
I have been flashed from the start of Unitronics 3.0 venture and love it. I for the first time ever took the car to the track and ran a 12.617. But when I got there a found myself asking way to many question and still ended up not doing the proper steps for a good time, but I had a good time lol.

Questions:
1. Is there a checklist of all the items that need to be addressed. i.e. A/C, L/C, time between laps (subject to everything, heat etc...)
2. Should we try to use the water/burnout or drive around.
3. And what is the best way to record/document your times. I had friend say prove it.

I Just flashed from home the new Unitronic flash they have that asks that you have a cold water system which I don't, but I think and have asked others (Mike) that it should be fine. I'm going to the track again to see if I can improve on the maiden voyage. 4/29

First, sorry I missed you at the track. I guess I got there after you left. I had my wife with me, and she was slowing me down (I gave her a pass since she's 7 months pregnant....).

Some general comments on cooling first....
The time between laps, cool down, etc. will depend a lot on the cooling system on the car, and what's happening at the track. Obviously, the cooler the better, but if the car is already hot, hot lapping works just fine (no waiting, no cool down). The car is not going to cool down much unless it sits for a long time, so waiting for it to cool down is not very practical. The car cools better moving than sitting with the engine off for a short period of time. The one thing that really hurts is sitting still in the staging lanes. So, you have to balance those things. If you are going to be sitting for more than a minute or two in the staging lanes, turn the car off. The less you can minimizing the time you spend sitting in the staging lanes, the better.

As Tom (andthen) taught me recently, running the AC as high as possible will run the fans full blast and really help with cooling. I tried to run my AC as much as possible up to the front of the staging lanes, and it dropped my IAT's 8-10 degrees. With that said, the track workers will tell you to make sure you have your AC off, so you have to be aware and make absolutely sure you turn it off when you get near the front of the staging lanes.

My process.... Make sure the AC is off, turn the radio off, roll up the windows, put my helmet on....
1. Turn the traction control completely off (hold down for at least 5 seconds)
2. Make sure the car is in sport/dynamic mode if it's an option
3. Go around the water box, but stay as far back as possible
4. Straiten out the wheels
5. Give the gas a full/fast stab to peel out a little. This will scrub and crap/rocks off the tires.
6. Creep up to the starting line. If you are going for the best time, the more shallow you can stage, the better. So, once you trigger the first light, just barely creep forward until the second light comes on. If you are racing someone to cross the finish line first, you probably want to pull as far forward as you can.
7. Once both lights come on for both cars, initiate LC or your launch method (you have a couple seconds before the start lights go off at this point).
8. I usually launch right when the last yellow light comes on if I am racing someone. If I am going for a good time only, I don't worry about the green light. I'll start when I'm ready (within reason).

That's pretty much it for me. Launch and go.... I make sure to stay on the gas until I am well past the finish line.

Mike and Loe did a good job of describing the best way to launch a DSG, or as some call it the Primetime method or similar:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post11542817
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post11542917

I log and record all my runs, so in terms of documenting, I have video, logs, and a time slip of every run. I start both my logging and GoPro before I go around the water box. For most people the time slip is enough. Take a picture of your car with the number on it, so you'll have something that matches the car# on the time slip if you need further proof.

[jran76]

Tire pressures is the other thing I play around with. I always bring my gauge and small tire compressor. I usually start off at 36 psi front, and 32 psi rear. Then work my way down as needed. At Texas Motorplex, that works when it's warm and there is good track prep (rare). If it's cooler out, and track prep is bad, I can end up as low as 28 psi front, and 24 rear. I'll usually settle at something like 32 psi front, and 28 psi rear.

[silverf0x]

I use to powerclutch every gear in my Subarus, keeping the boost as highly as possible. Is it still a feasible thing on a B8.5 6MT ?

[colby7]

Are those warm tire pressure readings at the track, or cold readings at the house?

[jran76]

Are those warm tire pressure readings at the track, or cold readings at the house?

For me, warm at the track. I usually do it in the staging lanes if they are long, or just before if they are short. I'll check them before every run if I have a break (we usually do because the staging lanes are always backed-up and move SLOW in any decent conditions).

[Loe]

wow! gotta try that A/C trick the next time I am at the track!

[jran76]

A couple other things.....

A lot of people remove the spare tire and tools. I do this about half the time. If I have my wife with me, I usually bring the spare.... It's a 50+ mile drive for to the 1/4-mile track, so there is some risk in not having a spare and tools. Removing them cuts probably a good 50 lbs. So, it makes a little difference.

My checklist for what I bring:
-Gas can if I am planning to run race gas (5 gallon)
-Tire pressure gauge
-Small tire air compressor
-Helmet
-Tablet, mount, and VCDS cable for logging
-Something to clean bugs, gas, or whatever off the car
-A bag to store all the stuff in so it's not in the car (I use the storage bag my helmet is stored in)
-GoPro fully charged with SD card
-You have to wear long pants (jeans) at all the tracks around here for the most part

Before I leave the house:
-Check torque on lug nuts
-Fluid levels
-Scan car to check for any issues (my car has never had a check engine light/MIL.... knock on wood)

[fitzydude]

(I gave her a pass since she's 7 months pregnant....).

Aren't you worried about the G's being put on the bebe!!

[jran76]

wow! gotta try that A/C trick the next time I am at the track!

Yeah, Tom will probably post exactly what he does.... He actually revs the car a little before he gets up there, and that combined with the AC drops the temps. I literally watched my temps go down by over 8 degrees after I turned my AC on. Just gotta be careful because most tracks do not want you running the AC anywhere near the starting lines....

[fitzydude]

Hello all,
I for the first time ever took the car to the track and ran a 12.617.

Btw what kind of 60ft and trap speed did you get?

[jran76]

Aren't you worried about the G's being put on the bebe!!

Haha. Starting him early.... She's definitely no where near the car when I race. She doesn't like it when I get over about 80mph, so she'll stay as far back as possible and watch.

[jran76]

For reference, my best time that night was an 11.86 @118.3, and my best 60' was a 1.68 or something like that. I was running a mix of 2 gallons of 93 and 5 gallons of 104 on my race gas (100) map.

[fitzydude]

For reference, my best time that night was an 11.86 @118.3, and my best 60' was a 1.68 or something like that. I was running a mix of 2 gallons of 93 and 5 gallons of 104 on my race gas (100) map.

Very nice, I've been calling around about switching tunes and Blair would be able to switch me to APR for a very good price...

[The Fat Kid]

First, sorry I missed you at the track. I guess I got there after you left. I had my wife with me, and she was slowing me down (I gave her a pass since she's 7 months pregnant....)

Good luck and enjoy these last kid-free months!

The best advice I ever heard about dealing with a newborn, "Just keep the kid alive for the first month." That will make a lot more sense after your first sleepless night

[fitzydude]

As Tom (andthen) taught me recently, running the AC as high as possible will run the fans full blast and really help with cooling. I tried to run my AC as much as possible up to the front of the staging lanes, and it dropped my IAT's 8-10 degrees.

This gives a double bonus from the condensation that leaks on the track even after you turn the a/c off! The fine folks at Texas Motorplex are happy to shut down the track an additional 5-10 minutes while they clean up the condensation between runs. That's just extra cool down time!!!!

[mrmomo313]

Yeah, Tom will probably post exactly what he does.... He actually revs the car a little before he gets up there, and that combined with the AC drops the temps. I literally watched my temps go down by over 8 degrees after I turned my AC on. Just gotta be careful because most tracks do not want you running the AC anywhere near the starting lines....

Interesting hopefully he chimes in and elaborates. I know at my track if they see you running your A/c and dropping any water on the ground it's enough for them to send you home... Risky but that sounds like it helps big time... Might push my luck and try it next time out


OP, Jran did a great job of touching on all the key points..

If you really want to squeeze out the best time possible run with a 1/4 tank or less.. Fold your mirrors in. Really focus on the shallow staging, just barely and I mean barely trigger that second light.. All those little things help except the mirrors maybe lol. Play around with the "primetime method" of launching as described by Loe and Mike. With the b8.5 LC seems to be equally effective so do what's easier for you

[jran76]

Good luck and enjoy these last kid-free months!

The best advice I ever heard about dealing with a newborn, "Just keep the kid alive for the first month." That will make a lot more sense after your first sleepless night

Ha. That's the plan!

This gives a double bonus from the condensation that leaks on the track even after you turn the a/c off! The fine folks at Texas Motorplex are happy to shut down the track an additional 5-10 minutes while they clean up the condensation between runs. That's just extra cool down time!!!!

No doubt. They shut the track down if a bird shits within 100 feet of the track....

[Loe]

All of the great points have been touched!

One thing I would like to add is that the engine will perform its best at normal operating temperatures, the goal is to just get your IAT's down in the 35C range at the start of the run for the most effective performance.

[TexasDfwS4]

Thanks guys, andthen (Tom) was very helpful and I was able to get down the lane but at the staging area I had a hard time trying to figure everything out and when your at the tree the L/C part of it was almost didn't have time to hit the green light. I actually run my second run with the A/C one and I wasn't sure if I was in sports mode. I was more worried about the heat under the hood.

[bhvrdr]

Thanks guys, andthen (Tom) was very helpful and I was able to get down the lane but at the staging area I had a hard time trying to figure everything out and when your at the tree the L/C part of it was almost didn't have time to hit the green light. I actually run my second run with the A/C one and I wasn't sure if I was in sports mode. I was more worried about the heat under the hood.

Jran gave some great advice and I do agree with him about the A/C tip but I dont use that tip and you've proved why :) At PBIR they dont want you running A/C in the staging lanes for the obvious reason that there are always going to be people that either forget to turn it off or try and push the limit running it all the way up to the tree or whatever. You ended up running it down the track which means you dripped water down the track. I have seen multiple crashes at PBIR now and its just not worth it IMO if it could compromise safety. Again, your call but I know my forgetfulness because I have forgotten to shift the trans into sport mode before. We all have.

Mike

[lettuce]

If you guys are worried about IATs on hot days you should run water/meth. No need to worry about others slipping on condensation when it's all contained within your intake tract.

Plus you can run your 100 octane tune without needing to blow all your hard earned cash on race fuel. More money for post-race strippers.

[TexasDfwS4]

Jran gave some great advice and I do agree with him about the A/C tip but I dont use that tip and you've proved why :) At PBIR they dont want you running A/C in the staging lanes for the obvious reason that there are always going to be people that either forget to turn it off or try and push the limit running it all the way up to the tree or whatever. You ended up running it down the track which means you dripped water down the track. I have seen multiple crashes at PBIR now and its just not worth it IMO if it could compromise safety. Again, you're call but I know my forgetfulness because I have forgotten to shift the trans in into sport mode before. We all have.

Mike

Thanks Mike,

For the record I forgot to turn off the A/C and sport mode. Like I said it was the first time and all the dues and don't and I messed up, that's why I was asking for the check sheet just to instill it into my old processor.

Terry

[Loe]

The worse part of track day are street tired people who go through the water and into the burn out box and barely burn out...ughh!

[shadycrew31]

I didnt read any of the posts in here. You have a DSG and AWD.

1. Line up
2. Wait for green
3. Gas pedal
4. Pass white line
5. Brake.

[bhvrdr]

Thanks Mike,

For the record I forgot to turn off the A/C and sport mode. Like I said it was the first time and all the dues and don't and I messed up, that's why I was asking for the check sheet just to instill it into my old processor.

Terry

I hear ya man. I definitely didnt mean to be criticizing either. It happens. My memory is not perfect so I try and keep it simple.




1. Prep car before track - remove spare and jack if you want/are able and anything else that can fly around the cabin. Do quick safety check of car. Try and arrive at track with 1/4 tank of fuel. Dont forget your helmet.

2. At track I get my helmet unwrapped and ready for tech. Do a once over on the interior of the car removing anything that shouldnt be there for tech (put my radar detector in the glove box).

3. Go to pre-staging.
-Get tire pressures to 32f/30r (or whatever you want to try).
-Turn you climate control to the off position.
-Keep the engine off and hood up until the party begins. Many times my first run is one of my best runs because it takes a bit for the track to go hot so the car cools a bit.

5. Steward gives the ready for your run group to go -
-put down hood
-get in car
-put on seatbelt
-put on helmet
-start car
-hold ESP button to deactivate stability program/trac control - wait for the OFF to show
-shift car into drive and then sport transmission mode (dynamic, whatever gets the trans to sport mode).

6. Staging
-drive around water box
-with foot on gas and brake slowly bring the car up to shallow stage it. As soon as you trigger the first lights (pre-stage lights) I gently feather the brake right until the second set of lights (stage lights) come on. Get as shallow as possible
-now I take my time and breathe. I dont focus on leaving when the green lights say go. The time doesnt start until you leave staging so you are fine. I pin the throttle and as the needle revs up to 2500rpm or so (this happens very quickly) I release the brake smartly.
-Get down the track and DONT RELEASE THE THROTTLE EARLY. Make sure to accelerate all the way through the ending timing lights.


I'm no pro at this at all. I'm sure some can give better advice or show where I could improve my procedure but thats what I do for now. All advice appreciated.


Mike

[TexasDfwS4]

Thanks Mike,
This is exactly the steps I need to commit to memory lol, it happens pretty quick and I think that from now on I will turn off the climate control sooner so as to not have to deal with it along with everything else.

Thanks Terry

[S4Flyer]

"...with foot on gas and brake slowly bring the car up to shallow stage it. As soon as you trigger the first lights (pre-stage lights) I gently feather the brake right until the second set of lights (stage lights) come on. Get as shallow as possible..."

I've ready this entire thread twice, but can't for the life of me figure out what "getting shallow" means. Can someone please explain?

[TexasDfwS4]

I believe it's the distance between the trap lights from pre stage and then stage, but if you go feather then just tripping the light to the start of the 1/4 mile run there is a small distance that is FREE travel that will help your 1/4 mile time.

[Whitee]

wow! gotta try that A/C trick the next time I am at the track!

AC will rob HP, I don't think the effects of turning it on will help. They negate each other.

[14S4GWM]

AC will rob HP, I don't think the effects of turning it on will help. They negate each other.

You turn it off right before go time.

[mrmomo313]

AC will rob HP, I don't think the effects of turning it on will help. They negate each other.

The idea isn't to run with A/C on down the strip.. It's to crank it up in the staging lanes to bring down IAT's as the fans will be running harder... Should be turned off when you get to the front of the staging lanes

Also, I see you have an APR tune. Little cool thing I learned a while back. Even with A/C on, at WOT, the Apr tune will turn A/C off until you get off full throttle. Pretty nice, can make a hard pull without that loss of power and have it turn right back on when you let off

[bhvrdr]

I believe it's the distance between the trap lights from pre stage and then stage, but if you go feather then just tripping the light to the start of the 1/4 mile run there is a small distance that is FREE travel that will help your 1/4 mile time.

yeah, this article isnt bad...

http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/0...your-drag-car/

[silverf0x]

The idea isn't to run with A/C on down the strip.. It's to crank it up in the staging lanes to bring down IAT's as the fans will be running harder... Should be turned off when you get to the front of the staging lanes

Also, I see you have an APR tune. Little cool thing I learned a while back. Even with A/C on, at WOT, the Apr tune will turn A/C off until you get off full throttle. Pretty nice, can make a hard pull without that loss of power and have it turn right back on when you let off

Do you happen to know if a Unitronic tune does the same thing?

[scottycs]

a lot of cars do that from factory, doubt that is a "APR" thing.

[jran76]

The idea isn't to run with A/C on down the strip.. It's to crank it up in the staging lanes to bring down IAT's as the fans will be running harder... Should be turned off when you get to the front of the staging lanes

What would be great, would be some way to manually turn the fans on full blast. You can do this temporarily through VCDS with a test function, but they shut off after a short period of time. Being able to do it via a switch or something in the tune would be a huge bonus.... Are any tuners out there reading this???

And, yes, just to be clear on the AC thing.... You absolutely do not want to get any where near the starting line with it on. As mentioned, it's an all-around bad idea, and some places definitely frown upon having it on at all. If it's something you may forget or it will get you kicked out, don't turn it on in the first place. The staging lanes at Texas Motorplex are setup in a way that you loop back around the starting area. There is really no risk as long as you turn it off before you make the turn towards the starting area.

[S4Flyer]

yeah, this article isnt bad...

http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/0...your-drag-car/

Thanks for the input and article. Got it now!

[silverf0x]

Curious has to WHY it seems like such a big deal to leave the A/C open near the starting line? Condensation from the A/C dripping on the track?? Or something else?

[jran76]

Curious has to WHY it seems like such a big deal to leave the A/C open near the starting line? Condensation from the A/C dripping on the track?? Or something else?

Yep. Condensation or water on the track. Cars on slicks don't like it. With that said, if it's pre-water box, it shouldn't really matter. It would be a very small amount, and you are almost always going to get some water on your tires going around or through the water box....

[silverf0x]

But wouldn't condensation still drip even after you've turned off the A/C pre water box?