upper control arms

[OlivierA4]

I am changing my suspensions, springs, shocks.
I read about DIY on replacement of upper control arm with seize bolts. I am at that god damn seize bolt right now. i use a lot of lubricant, impact driver and yet, nothing move. not an micro movement. i want to use the air impact hammer but there is no space to get into the bolt. the red arrow is where i want to use the hammer to get the bolt back out but there isn't enough of space. any trick please help.




do I use the chisel first or chisel after the bolt is removed? blue arrow point to the slot for chiseling

[Seerlah]

Heat, and lots of it.

[old guy]

Clicky click® Clicky click 2®

[fyremanpat]

Snap the head off and drill it out.....seriously. I beat the shit out of mine for 4 hours. I tried heat and penetrating oil with no luck. Drilled both sides out in about 10 minutes. Good luck!

[Audibot]

I've used a punch to bust it out of there, after the nut comes off. Whether it sheers off or not, it's a reasonable way of doing it.

[diagnosticator]

DO NOT use anything to spread open the gap in the control arm clamp! If the gap is spread open, the grip on the control arm ball joint will not be uniform around the ball joint shaft when the new bolt is retorqued, negatively effecting the gripping force developed by the clamp bolt on the ball joint shafts.

For clearance using a pneumatic hammer gun, cut the head off the bolt with a hack saw, then hammer the bolt out of the triple clamp in the backward direction. Use an impact tool in the hammer gun that is slightly smaller diameter than the bolt, grind to size as needed, with a ground point on the tool to fit into a conical drill point drilled into the bolt shank, to help keep the impact tool from moving away from the bolt centerline before the bolt is moved enough for the bolt hole to guide the impact tool. As already mentioned above, apply limited heat to the triple clamp around the seized bolt, to help free up the bolt. DO NOT over heat the triple clamp! 200 to 300 degrees F, is the maximum heating temp. Overheating the aluminum triple clamp will weaken and damage the triple clamp.

If when drilling the seized bolt, use a small pilot drilled hole first, then use a larger drill and conical point drill tool. The small pilot hole will be easier to drill, and will result in drilling with a larger drill bit will then be a lot easier and faster also.

[Human Garbage]

Diagnosticator is right about the heat. Aluminum loses half its tensile strength at 400*F. Learned that the hard way flying airplanes with too lean a mixture/poor cooling. Jugs don't last long before cracking if you take it above that.

[OlivierA4]

i followed the method that OLDGUY recommend and got the pinch bolt out. i heat the triple clam and keep the temperature at 230 max. my son with the infrared thermometer keep checking the surface heat.
thank you for all of your help and recommendations.

Evil Bolt

my next thing is how do i get the upper controller arm ball join out of the clam. i use the ball joint removal tool on the bottom. what should i use to remove the upper control arm ball joint? I watch the video from FCPro website and the technician that doing the demo using the chisel. but our experts (diagnostica and oldguy) said NO chisel.
??????????????

[walky_talky20]

A smidge bit of chisel will be ok. Just a little. Then hit the joints from the bottom with hammer and punch and they'll pop right out.

An air hammer would probably also make quick work of that, likely with no chisel/spreading action necessary.

[ase8427]

This should be obvious, but follow the correct torque spec.! I was a lazy DUMB-ASS and used the 3/8 impact gun to re-tighten the pinch bolt. The small end of the knuckle where the nut goes broke right off! Looks like Bentley calls for 40 Nm,

[old guy]

my next thing is how do i get the upper controller arm ball join out of the clam. i use the ball joint removal tool on the bottom. what should i use to remove the upper control arm ball joint? I watch the video from FCPro website and the technician that doing the demo using the chisel. but our experts (diagnostica and oldguy) said NO chisel.

Jack up the steering knuckle close to the normal right height position before attempting to remove the upper ball joints. If the knuckle is hanging down it tends to put the ball joint shafts in a bind and requires a bit more force to remove them. Once again heat is your friend.

[OlivierA4]

A smidge bit of chisel will be ok. Just a little. Then hit the joints from the bottom with hammer and punch and they'll pop right out.

An air hammer would probably also make quick work of that, likely with no chisel/spreading action necessary.

This should be obvious, but follow the correct torque spec.! I was a lazy DUMB-ASS and used the 3/8 impact gun to re-tighten the pinch bolt. The small end of the knuckle where the nut goes broke right off! Looks like Bentley calls for 40 Nm,

thank you for the torque spec.

Jack up the steering knuckle close to the normal right height position before attempting to remove the upper ball joints. If the knuckle is hanging down it tends to put the ball joint shafts in a bind and requires a bit more force to remove them. Once again heat is your friend.

I have the car on the floor jack (one side like changing tire but under the front rearward subframe), instead of of jack the steering knuckle up, can i lower the car to the normal heigh (same level with the passenger side) then bottle jack the knuckle up where the center of the brake disc the same height like the tire installed?

do i need to heat up the triple clam and use the air hammer to hit the joints from the bottom? or just air hammer alone?

thank you all for

[SJorge3442]

You can leave the car jacked up (I hope your using jack stands or at least have the tire thrown under the frame) and then jack up the knuckle to the height where it would be if the car was on the ground. Then use a punch and whack those joints out. I used a normal tie rod tool to get mine off like this



Put it around the joint and hammer it in. Should pop right out. A little heat can help too.

[OlivierA4]

Jorge, thank you. i will try your method.

[iksnoved25]

I went to do this on Sunday. After about 5 minutes I decided, this isn't for me and packed up the tools. I'll be replacing my entire suspension (125k on original setup) and have the shop take care of these while I'm at it. I'm a rookie and not trying to break anything.

[SJorge3442]

I went to do this on Sunday. After about 5 minutes I decided, this isn't for me and packed up the tools. I'll be replacing my entire suspension (125k on original setup) and have the shop take care of these while I'm at it. I'm a rookie and not trying to break anything.

Due to the nature of the pinch bolt, I wouldn't recommend this job for a beginner mechanic. This is certainly up there on the list of PITA items to change. Being in PA I bet your stuff isn't in that great of shape either.

[iksnoved25]

Due to the nature of the pinch bolt, I wouldn't recommend this job for a beginner mechanic. This is certainly up there on the list of PITA items to change. Being in PA I bet your stuff isn't in that great of shape either.

well, I had no problem getting off that first bolt, wasn't seized or anything. But after I looked at how much more involved the job was, I'll just have the shop do it. I'm a DIYer, but this one looks a bit more of a PITA than brakes/rotors.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

Having the proper tools definitely helps as well!

Click HERE to order or for more information


**We plan on having a more affordable option in the future FYI.**

Jason

[OlivierA4]

I got the pinch bolt out after work today. just took me 5 mins with punch and hammer. I sprayed it first in the morning before I left and spraying it again when i got home. then 20 mins after the spray, i started with the punch and hammer. just little tap tap tap then it came out. feel quite an accomplishment today.
how do I remove the factory retaining ring/washer on the shock plate? I removed 3 bolts to take the shock/spring and upper control arm out but there is a retaining clip and I can not get it out. what do you use to do it? i try to cut it but the metal nipper couldn't reach. i am thinking of sharp chisel :) or make a tool that similar to the tool that remove the door panel clip but stronger to pry this thing out. take a look at the blue circle.

I sort out parts from the kit that i bought from FCPRO. is this the piece that attach to the knuckle and the other end cover in the rubber boot? is this piece the same as the red circle ? what is the do and don't on this?
.



Olivier

[SJorge3442]

Part you circled is the piece you have. Its called an outer tie rod. Shock tower has 3 bolts accessible from under the hood holding it in. Those three and the bottom shock bolt on the control are the only thing holding the shock in

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[cschuster]

For that little retaining washer - Remove the 3 bolts in the upper mount, leave the bottom shock bolt attached, then jump on the hub a little. It will either pop loose or right off.

[19jdog]

I live in Cali and don't have to worry about rust. That damn pinch bolt always strips when removing. Thank god for the salvage yards near me!

[tHatOne guY]

Having the proper tools definitely helps as well!

Click HERE to order or for more information


**We plan on having a more affordable option in the future FYI.**

Jason

Hazet has good tools but always been pricey... that said I picked up one of these a couple years back. Being that I have 3 Audis and work on quite a few others.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Laser-Tools-...851?rmvSB=true

[rocket1420]

Part you circled is the piece you have. Its called an outer tie rod. Shock tower has 3 bolts accessible from under the hood holding it in. Those three and the bottom shock bolt on the control are the only thing holding the shock in

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Not to be argumentative, but he actually has the whole tie rod assembly, both inner and outer parts. Make sure to adjust the new ones to the same length as the old ones. This will at least make the car driveable to the alignment shop.

[OlivierA4]

do i really have to replace the whole tie rod assembly or just the outer part?

[SJorge3442]

do i really have to replace the whole tie rod assembly or just the outer part?

Either way, you're going to need an alignment. Not to mention, the inner tie rods are likely worn a bit. The rule of thumb is that if you push the inner tie rod up without the outer attached and it remains up and doesnt sag, then its still good. When they were, they lose their ability to hold themselves up.

[OlivierA4]

I will have to order the clam for the replacement of the tie rod assembly. damn it another week of waiting.

[SJorge3442]

I will have to order the clam for the replacement of the tie rod assembly. damn it another week of waiting.

i used a big hose clamp for it. I dont have the tool for the other pliers and I've had no issues over the last 2 years. Just a normal 2" hoseclamp does the trick

[Audibot]

I've used a zip tie for the accordian hose. No issues either.

[SJorge3442]

I've used a zip tie for the accordian hose. No issues either.

Yeah you basically just need to keep that cover in place. Its point is to prevent dust and dirk from getting to the steering rack seals.

[OlivierA4]

Ok. I will use the SS hose clamp. Try to get one side done this weekend

[walky_talky20]

Hazet has good tools but always been pricey... that said I picked up one of these a couple years back. Being that I have 3 Audis and work on quite a few others.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Laser-Tools-...851?rmvSB=true

Ooh, Thanks for the tip. Just bought one of these. $28 shipped.

[tHatOne guY]

Absolutely. I love mine and at about a 10th the price of the Hazet tool!

[rocket1420]

Ooh, Thanks for the tip. Just bought one of these. $28 shipped.

Where did you get it for $28 shipped? Do you mean 28 GBP?

[OlivierA4]

thank you everyone for chiming in.
i am on the last stretch of the first time ever control arms replacement. I read tightening upper control arms and lower control arms at suspension loaded. the upper control arms are already tighten to the uppers struts mounting plate with measuring at 80mm for the front and 70mm for the back arm with reference from the top of the mounting plate to the flat part (near the ball join) of the control arms.
I have my wheel off and have the car on the floor jack. I plan of using bottle jack to jack the knuckle up in simulate the suspension load condition. the question i have is how do i know when/where to stop jacking up the knuckle to the proper ride height? I search around for the stock suspension ride height on our audizine forums but it search results with all kind of numbers. 25.75, 25, etc. What is the spec. number? please help me.
thank you again.

[SJorge3442]

thank you everyone for chiming in.
i am on the last stretch of the first time ever control arms replacement. I read tightening upper control arms and lower control arms at suspension loaded. the upper control arms are already tighten to the uppers struts mounting plate with measuring at 80mm for the front and 70mm for the back arm with reference from the top of the mounting plate to the flat part (near the ball join) of the control arms.
I have my wheel off and have the car on the floor jack. I plan of using bottle jack to jack the knuckle up in simulate the suspension load condition. the question i have is how do i know when/where to stop jacking up the knuckle to the proper ride height? I search around for the stock suspension ride height on our audizine forums but it search results with all kind of numbers. 25.75, 25, etc. What is the spec. number? please help me.
thank you again.

ahh. This figure is dependent on your car, the age of the shocks, and the sag of the springs. You can always tighten the bolts enough to hold everything in place, lower the car back to the ground, and then measure the center of the wheel to the fender. That will give you the measurement you need.

[OlivierA4]

Jorge,
what should i reference my measurement to? I need some baseline number.
I change these things in the car; upper and lower control arms, struts and spring (solo werk). so I need to get the suspension loaded at factory, then tight all control arms, then adjust the spring to the near factory ride height number.

a little background, the car is 110k miles. i paid local shop to fix the car before but ...... so I just start this myself. i found out that, the shock, spring, control arms, tie rod assembly are all bad. ball join area were all good however all the rubber bushing is cracked and ripped. inner tie rod is not stiff and can not held itself up. I AM PISSED after I find out all of these things. basically, my trusted local shop and the dealer before that did not do it right nor cut corner. either way, i am fucked by it.

[old guy]

I plan of using bottle jack to jack the knuckle up in simulate the suspension load condition. the question i have is how do i know when/where to stop jacking up the knuckle to the proper ride height?

Simple. No need to measure anything. Jack the knuckle up to the point where the body of the car just starts to move. That would be the point that the suspension is fully loaded.

[OlivierA4]

Simple. No need to measure anything. Jack the knuckle up to the point where the body of the car just starts to move. That would be the point that the suspension is fully loaded.

Old Guy,
thank you and I HATE (in a good way) you. why everything seem so simple with you :).

[old guy]

At least there are a FEW advantages of being old..........