Just ordered a Blauparts timing belt kit, do I need to rent the tools?

[daverdfw]

So I am about to embark on my first timing belt change. I ordered the kit from Blauparts, and they have the optional OEM tool rental, of the howtos I have read it doesn't seem like its necessary, Any thoughts from you folks that have done this job before?

[gotboost]

You don't need any special tools. ECS tuning has a great DIY:

http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...ingBeltDIY.pdf

[Willënskraft]

I'd recommend the tools it makes life easier.

[old guy]

Here's a nine year old post that is worth a read: Clicky click ®

[eljay]

That is an excellent tip from OG above!
It sounds so foolproof that I'm even tempted to forget about trying to rotate the engine by hand to line up the timing marks.
But this will be my first TB change too (in the next couple of weeks), so perhaps extra caution is warranted. :)

[old guy]

That is an excellent tip from OG above!
It sounds so foolproof that I'm even tempted to forget about trying to rotate the engine by hand to line up the timing marks.
But this will be my first TB change too (in the next couple of weeks), so perhaps extra caution is warranted. :)

Since this is your first TB change definitely align then factory marks just for your own peace of mind. But beyond that think about the rationality of match marking the belts. If you put the original belt back on with the marks aligned it's going to go back exactly as removed. As long as you transfer the belt marks the new belt will be the same.

A word of caution. The belt marks are not going to align after one rotation. If you continue to rotate the engine they will realign after somewhere around 50 rotations. The marks index forward with each rotation and will eventually realign. The factory marks should realign after every second crank rotation.

So don't freak out with your cam/crank/belt marks when you rotate the engine. Be confident in your original belt/pulley alignments and go forward with confidence!

[daverdfw]

Since this is your first TB change definitely align then factory marks just for your own peace of mind. But beyond that think about the rationality of match marking the belts. If you put the original belt back on with the marks aligned it's going to go back exactly as removed. As long as you transfer the belt marks the new belt will be the same.

A word of caution. The belt marks are not going to align after one rotation. If you continue to rotate the engine they will realign after somewhere around 50 rotations. The marks index forward with each rotation and will eventually realign. The factory marks should realign after every second crank rotation.

So don't freak out with your cam/crank/belt marks when you rotate the engine. Be confident in your original belt/pulley alignments and go forward with confidence!

great tip on the marks for the TB, Will definitely be doing that! Sounds like extra piece of mine compared to the factory marks. My biggest worry I guess is after you take off the pullys you move the camshaft and it gets it out of alignment with the marks.

[daverdfw]

Looks like I will be doing this job tomorrow as I have to get the rental tools back pretty quickly. When you guys do this are you putting the front in Service Position? or swinging the fans and everything off to the side? I have the tools to put it in service position.

[eljay]

Looks like I will be doing this job tomorrow as I have to get the rental tools back pretty quickly. When you guys do this are you putting the front in Service Position? or swinging the fans and everything off to the side? I have the tools to put it in service position.

I am planning to do it this weekend! And I plan to swing out the carrier for more access. I think that I am keeping the wheels as I don't have the bottom engine cover and I think I can just turn the wheels side-to-side when on jacks to access the fender liner screws.
Good luck and report back!

[daverdfw]

I am planning to do it this weekend! And I plan to swing out the carrier for more access. I think that I am keeping the wheels as I don't have the bottom engine cover and I think I can just turn the wheels side-to-side when on jacks to access the fender liner screws.
Good luck and report back!

same here on the skid plate. I should be able to get the bumper off pretty quickly. Only part that makes me nervous is lining up the marks, and what to do if the marks move while you are working on it.

[old guy]

Only part that makes me nervous is lining up the marks, and what to do if the marks move while you are working on it.

If you mark the belts properly it doesn’t matter if the cam moves a little in one direction or the other. As long as you make sure the belt marks align with the cam/crank marks you will be maintaining the proper spacing between the cam and crank. If the cam moves a little you may have to tweak the crank slightly in one direction or the other to realign the belt paint marks.

Again, as long as you align the belt/cam/crank paint marks it’s virtually impossible to change the cam/crank timing from what it previously was. Don’t overthink it!

[Let it snow]

I am planning to do it this weekend! And I plan to swing out the carrier for more access. I think that I am keeping the wheels as I don't have the bottom engine cover and I think I can just turn the wheels side-to-side when on jacks to access the fender liner screws.
Good luck and report back!

If you are talking about access to the six bumper to fender nuts it is easier to access them by removing the headlights.

http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...erremoval.html

[SJorge3442]

If you are talking about access to the six bumper to fender nuts it is easier to access them by removing the headlights.

http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...erremoval.html

I agree. Also, I wish the 3.0 had key'd cam gears. It would make things easier for sure.

[daverdfw]

If you mark the belts properly it doesn’t matter if the cam moves a little in one direction or the other. As long as you make sure the belt marks align with the cam/crank marks you will be maintaining the proper spacing between the cam and crank. If the cam moves a little you may have to tweak the crank slightly in one direction or the other to realign the belt paint marks.

Again, as long as you align the belt/cam/crank paint marks it’s virtually impossible to change the cam/crank timing from what it previously was. Don’t overthink it!

yeah I see what you are saying, I am sure I am making it more complicated than it really is, thanks for the advice!

[SJorge3442]

yeah I see what you are saying, I am sure I am making it more complicated than it really is, thanks for the advice!

Yup. This image really shows that its full proof to mess up the timing on an engine with locked cam gears.

[eljay]

If you are talking about access to the six bumper to fender nuts it is easier to access them by removing the headlights.

http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...erremoval.html

Yep, I will be removing the headlights.

[daverdfw]

so it looks like in order to swing the carrier over I have to remove the transmission cooler lines? Anything I need to be worried about when doing that?

[Chris M]

i just did this timing kit last month. no special tools needed. you can swing the carrier over without removing the lines, although you would have some more room if you did. take the spark plugs out to turn the crank easier. line up the cam and harmonic dampener to the marks before removing the belt. i had to adjust the new tensioner a couple times after rotating engine a few times before it stayed in the set tension mark on the pulley. it takes a while but nothing complicated. good luck

[daverdfw]

i just did this timing kit last month. no special tools needed. you can swing the carrier over without removing the lines, although you would have some more room if you did. take the spark plugs out to turn the crank easier. line up the cam and harmonic dampener to the marks before removing the belt. i had to adjust the new tensioner a couple times after rotating engine a few times before it stayed in the set tension mark on the pulley. it takes a while but nothing complicated. good luck

hmm ok, just seems like in the DIY on here they are able to move the carrier totally out of the way, so you are saying you didnt remove the Transmission lines on the left side of the radiator?

[daverdfw]

so just as a quick sanity check, I have the top cam sprocket lined up with the valve cover mark, I took a paint pen and made 1 mark on the cam sprocket and 2 on the crank, does this look right?

Just wanna check before I take the belt off.

[SJorge3442]

Looks good to me. Pull the belt off, transfer the marks to the new belt and install it.

[old guy]

You got it!

[Chris M]

i was only able to swing the carrier about 30-45 degrees but enough to work on it. and proped the other side up on a box.
looks good. then when the pulley and cover is back on you can check the marks on it.

[daverdfw]

thanks everyone! I really appreciate your help and patience. What I ended up doing to get more room was disconnect the power steering cooler, and then I left the transmission lines on the radiator. Then I swung it over to the passenger side.

[daverdfw]

also it looks by the red color on the water pump it was leaking coolant, hence the pink/red color on it.

[daverdfw]

Success! Took about 7 hours, and everything is back together and running great! No leaks or issues. Thank again EVERYONE for the help, I really appreciate it!

[old guy]

Sweet! Nice job. Feels good, doesn't it!!

[daverdfw]

Sweet! Nice job. Feels good, doesn't it!!

yea feels great. One thing i just though of, I got the new Litens tensioner, I got it lined up in the notch, and I don't recall if I checked the notch after I rotated the crank twice. Is that anything to be worried about?

[old guy]

You should be fine. Now relax, drink a beer, and enjoy your handiwork.

[daverdfw]

You should be fine. Now relax, drink a beer, and enjoy your handiwork.

thanks for all the help! you guys are a lifesaver!

edit: I pulled the top cover of the timing belt off and used my mirror, and the tensioner notch is still aligned. SO at least I could check it without too much effort. Thanks again!

[daverdfw]

just for reference, you are supposed to get the green dot on the right inside the gap on the left.

[eljay]

Congrats!
I am about to tackle mine. I have the regular old style tensioner I believe.