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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings Avant Nate's Avatar
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    Dec 23 2009
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    2001 Audi Allroad 6MT,1999 Yukon Denali, 1987 4Runner
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    Welded intercooler piping?

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    Has anyone seen legitimate improvement using welded intercooler tubing over universal kits with silicone couplers? I have a spool gun for my mig, and was thinking about doing this with my next setup.
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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings Seerlah's Avatar
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    Dec 05 2007
    AZ Member #
    23104
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    A place between here and there

    If I knew how to weld, my car would not be what it is now. I say go for it

    Just be sure to couple key locations for removal and such. That is how I have mine setup.
    I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like a bitch

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Turbavanttro's Avatar
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    Jan 24 2008
    AZ Member #
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    2022 Audi RS6, 2021 GMC Sierra AT4 Diesel, fully built 2004 Audi A4 Avant
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    Pennsylvania

    Welded is great, just make sure you add a flexible coupler like a hump bellow-type somewhere on each side to allow a little bit of movement. If you dont, you run the risk of cracking a pipe under extreme torque loading or chassis flex.
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  4. #4
    Registered User Four Rings UroTuning's Avatar
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    Aug 23 2007
    AZ Member #
    20527
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL

    If you're going to weld the intercooler and not use silicone then I would recommend using the vibrant vanjen clamps. This will allow some flex in the pipes when the engine moves. It will also allow easy removal of the pipes.
    http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...1022_1250_1306

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dan[FN]6262's Avatar
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    Sep 12 2008
    AZ Member #
    32962
    My Garage
    stripped out stroker E30 and 98 C230 in middle of a LS/TH400 swap
    Location
    South Central PA

    do it, use wiggins clamps!






    EFR | 7163
    268/260 cams

    I.E. Intake Manifold / 70mm
    Maestro [Dan Shank Super Tune™]

    BoostManager+
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  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Oct 10 2013
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    98 Civic CX Hatch, 2012 CBR250R
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    State College PA

    Quote Originally Posted by Stefn@UroTuning View Post
    If you're going to weld the intercooler and not use silicone then I would recommend using the vibrant vanjen clamps. This will allow some flex in the pipes when the engine moves. It will also allow easy removal of the pipes.
    http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...1022_1250_1306
    At over 100$ a coupler, I silicon will do just fine

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dan[FN]6262's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 12 2008
    AZ Member #
    32962
    My Garage
    stripped out stroker E30 and 98 C230 in middle of a LS/TH400 swap
    Location
    South Central PA

    Quote Originally Posted by Stefn@UroTuning View Post
    If you're going to weld the intercooler and not use silicone then I would recommend using the vibrant vanjen clamps. This will allow some flex in the pipes when the engine moves. It will also allow easy removal of the pipes.
    http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...1022_1250_1306
    hahahaha I missed this when I posted. Essentially the same product.
    EFR | 7163
    268/260 cams

    I.E. Intake Manifold / 70mm
    Maestro [Dan Shank Super Tune™]

    BoostManager+
    Meth Head


  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dan[FN]6262's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 12 2008
    AZ Member #
    32962
    My Garage
    stripped out stroker E30 and 98 C230 in middle of a LS/TH400 swap
    Location
    South Central PA

    Quote Originally Posted by Davdraco1 View Post
    At over 100$ a coupler, I silicon will do just fine
    You'd only need 4, so $400 for never ever ever ever having a boost/vacuum leak is pretty cool..... I'm still rocking Tbolt clamps and silicone. LOL
    EFR | 7163
    268/260 cams

    I.E. Intake Manifold / 70mm
    Maestro [Dan Shank Super Tune™]

    BoostManager+
    Meth Head


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