Crankshaft seal replacement

[q2quest]

Guys, I cannot for the life of me get the OEM (Teflon) style crankshaft oil seal in without the lip rolling inside out. I know the seal and crank snout need to be totally dry and in perfect condition. The second replacement seal I got from the local auto parts store is a Timken standard oil seal with the spring inside. I wonder if it wouldn't just be easier to use this standard old school style seal with a little grease. I know it is inferior, but those Teflon seals are so damned unforgiving. Any thoughts?

[Timtheguru]

Try using some PVC pipe of the correct dimension to press/hammer it in, you might try using just a PVC coupler. When you insert it you will go straight in.

[q2quest]

Try using some PVC pipe of the correct dimension to press/hammer it in, you might try using just a PVC coupler. When you insert it you will go straight in.

So is it that the seal is going in a little cooked that causes the lip to flip inside out? I tapped it in carefully with a socket and it seemed like the lip folded just from the friction against the crank.

[Luxus Panzer]

correct seal/size ?

Confirm the part #

[seanf86]

I just went through this on my B5s4 cam seals, did the crank seal not come with a plastic install tool? my Victor Reinz cam seals came with a plastic insert in the seal already which keeps the seal slightly expanded and you slip the plastic over the cam snout and slide the seal on and tap it into the seal bore.

[bagpype]

Is it the thin, paper like seal that lines the inside of the ring? If so, you can use either a thin feeler gauge or the special,VW tool.

[diagnosticator]

Did you buy the seal version already installed in a new cast aluminum seal carrier that bolts to the block? That is the only way to go and eliminates any struggle getting the seal OD into the original seal carrier ID. Fashion a sleeve from ABS or PVC pipe, a coupe of millimeters larger than the crank OD. Insert the sleeve into the seal, then place a new seal carrier to block gasket in place, then position seal carrier with installed seal and the sleeve up to the crank and slide the seal off the sleeve onto the crank, then carefully position the seal carrier against gasket applied to the block and install and tighten the bolts. A new seal pre installed in a seal carrier comes with an installation sleeve already inserted into the seal. You can only buy this version of replacement seal from the dealer.

06A 103 171 A Sealing flange with seal.

EDIT You said "crank snout" implying the front crank oil seal. I was referring to the rear main crank seal. If the seal in question is the front crank seal for a 1.8T or either seal on a 3.0l, disregard the above info.

[q2quest]

Did you buy the seal version already installed in a new cast aluminum seal carrier that bolts to the block? That is the only way to go and eliminates any struggle getting the seal OD into the original seal carrier ID. Fashion a sleeve from ABS or PVC pipe, a coupe of millimeters larger than the crank OD. Insert the sleeve into the seal, then place a new seal carrier to block gasket in place, then position seal carrier with installed seal and the sleeve up to the crank and slide the seal off the sleeve onto the crank, then carefully position the seal carrier against gasket applied to the block and install and tighten the bolts. A new seal pre installed in a seal carrier comes with an installation sleeve already inserted into the seal. You can only buy this version of replacement seal from the dealer.

06A 103 171 A Sealing flange with seal.

EDIT You said "crank snout" implying the front crank oil seal. I was referring to the rear main crank seal. If the seal in question is the front crank seal for a 1.8T or either seal on a 3.0l, disregard the above info.

Sorry, I guess I wasn't clear. It is the front crankshaft seal. It did not come with a plastic sleeve, but it is the OEM seal. I don't know why they bother selling this seal without the sleeve.