01 A4 1.8T AWM 2-3 cranks to start?

[Jennem]

01 A4 1.8 AWM Takes 2-3 cranks to start?
2001 A4 1.8T AWM
I Recently replaced the cylinder head due to timing belt snap. Ive checked the timing 5X and marks are all in line & the fuel pump is working. I've replaced: Cam sensor 3X, replaced fuel filter, fuel rail, maf sensor and Vac lines are all good.
I know the coil connector on my #1 is crusty and needs replaced.

What I don't know: I was told the timing chain was already aligned and I did NOT need to do anything with it. Could it be off??
Would the bad coil connection on #1 cause a 2-3 crank start?

I did take her into a German auto shop a couple weeks ago to have them do a one over on my work and hopefully sort out the 2-3 crank start issue. Unfortunately I lost confidence in their abilities when they popped the hood and shut it with a tool left inside, causing the hood release cable to come off. To add insult to injury they couldn't pop it open from underneath so I brought her home and popped the hood myself.
I've done a lot of work to this car myself thanks to this site but I'm far from a mechanic.
Anyone have any suggestions?

[redline380]

How does it run once it is started?

[Quattro420]

Who said the timing for chain was ok? If you know your timing belt is timed correctly then if check the chain timing. The intake cam is used for computer timing, 15 links in between the keyways in the cams

[Davdraco1]

I would see if your MAF is dirty or on its way out. Does it take a while to start once it's warmed up?

[walky_talky20]

I think it most likely lack of cam sensor signal (check codes to confirm, also check block 093 or thereabouts for cam phase offset at warm idle)

OR

lack of fuel pressure at initial cranking due to faulty fuel pump check valve (use fuel pressure gauge to confirm).

[chris164935]

Probably just coincidental... Things randomly go wrong with these cars after you do work to something else all the time. My guess is crank position sensor.

Who said the timing for chain was ok? If you know your timing belt is timed correctly then if check the chain timing. The intake cam is used for computer timing, 15 links in between the keyways in the cams

It is 16 links between the marks on the two camshafts.

[Jennem]

Thanks for the responses!
Once she starts, she runs great!
Re:timing chain being ok..the shop I ordered the head from said I wouldn't need to adjust the chain.
Crank position sensor I have not looked at yet. Is that hard to get to? I'll research tomorrow.
Fuel pressure I'll check again, but the fuel pressure does hold.
I'm not sure I have the mechanical skills to mess with the timing chain..if anyone is in or around Tacoma, WA and know of a decent mechanic I might take her into the shop if it turns out to be the timing chain.

[chris164935]

I wouldn't worry about the chain. If the timing was off it would run like crap once started.
The crank position sensor is located on the block by the oil filter housing. There's a bunch of colored connectors near the coolant expansion tank. Just follow the gray plug; that is the crank position sensor.

[Jennem]

Thanks, I'll look at it tomorrow, today the weather is looking good for The bass to bite!

[OMEGA SUPREME]

I had this problem. It was a relay going bad that controls the coil harness. Replaced it and it fires right up. Also could be your coil harness. Just some thoughts. Scan it with vag com to make sure.

[Turbo_B5]

Its probably just a sensor like walky said. Maybe even a coolant temp sensor.

My 97 had trouble starting cause it was loosing compression on cylinder one, the firing cylinder until one day it completely lost compression it stopped starting. (bad rings)

[Jennem]

The code I got from the shop is Canshaft position sensor (G40) P0341 - 35-00 implausible signal Readiness 0110 1101 whatever that means?
I've changed the cam sensor 3X
I went to change the Crank Position Sensor today and they gave me the wrong one. 😣
I tried to clean up the old one and plugged it back in but still took 2 cranks to start.

[Jennem]

Replaced the crank position sensor. Still taking 2 cranks to start.
I may have to suck it up and find a skilled shop. 😤

[OMEGA SUPREME]

relay.

[Jennem]

Which relay?

[OMEGA SUPREME]

It's one of the relays in the ECU box that controls the coil harness. Another controls the cam position sensor. I replaced both. Relays don't fail like a fuse. Sometimes my 2001 awm would take 3-4 times to start. Sometimes it wouldn't start. Then it would fire. Replaced the two relays and it fires right up on first crank.

[B5Riches]

If not those then map sensor or crank sensor


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[walky_talky20]

Are you sure the belt and chain timing is perfect? We had a Jetta 1.8T in the shop with the timing belt just 1 tooth off and it had these symptoms. Cam Position Sensor code, couple tries to start, the works.

[Jennem]

Well, I am not 100%. I took it apart and redid it yesterday. by the time I was done it was late and haven't started it yet. I had forgotten from the first time I did it that the timing marks really don't match up to TDC on cylinder 1. It's about a tooth off
If I get home from work early enough I'll try to start her today if not I'm taking tomorrow off.

[Jennem]

Still 2 cranks to start after doing the timing again. Gotta be the cam chain?? And how hard is it?

[walky_talky20]

A tooth off, you say?

There are some other variables here, possibly. The 1.8T engine can, on occasion, lie to you with regard to the timing marks. Both the cam AND crank marks can show things which are not true. The crank damper pulley has a little bit of bolt slop. It also is bonded with rubber, which can twist and give timing mark errors of 10 degrees or more. Rare, but possible. Secondly, the camshaft gear keyway can deform under stress allowing the gear to slip on the cam. This can also result in a timing mark error of 10 degrees or more.

Yes, you read that right. The marks can be on the money, and your engine can still be completely out of time. This is rare, but not unheard of. I've actually seen it more than once. More often the cam keyway damage due to an oil pressure incident (sludge related) where the cam almost locked up, but didn't.

The check is to check timing without using the factory t-belt marks. Go to what you think is TDC, pull spark plug #1, use a dowel or other long instrument down the #1 plug hole to find TDC precisely. Compare to factory mark. Then pull valve cover and check mark are the rear of the exhaust camshaft. Should be dead center with the arrow. Then check 16 links to the intake camshaft. Engine is timed.

[Jennem]

Thanks, I followed an old post/reply of yours. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ightly-off-TDC
I removed the lid and timed cams and crank to TDC.
I'll do 2 hand rotations when I get home from work before I start her up.