B8.5 allroad - Alu Kruez Installed

[treginginco]

Finally got the AK and it finally was installed this morning.

Initial Impressions:
1: I can't quite put my finger on it or describe it, but it just feels like the entire front end of the vehicle is screwed together tighter
2: Steering is precise. While my steering before wasn't the worst..... it did require you to keep an eye on your forward progress. Now.... it's like the thing is on rails.

More to come ---- only have driven about 30 miles since picking up the AR.

[earhythmic]

Did you have to mod it at all to fit the Allroad? Rumor has it you have to drill some openings to let the existing bolts through?

[treginginco]

No modifications needed. The allroad does come with a small protection plate (or others have it) that required a couple of holes being drilled for small screws. My install guy (Hardey's Motorwerks) said my AR didn't have that plate ----- so it just bolted right up.

[BrewDude]

I still have mine sitting in the box after nearly purchasing it a year ago. Guess I'd better get with the program.

[theSaint024]

Maybe I should post in the too-dumb-to-ask thread, but... in what ways do sways, strut bar, and this alu kruez differ in handling? All do the same thing to varying degrees or each address a different aspect?

[treginginco]

Maybe I should post in the too-dumb-to-ask thread, but... in what ways do sways, strut bar, and this alu kruez differ in handling? All do the same thing to varying degrees or each address a different aspect?

I can only answer the AK question.

Overall... It just feels like the like it steers and drives more intuitively. I can't explain it other than saying the front end just feels like one solid piece of metal. Make sense?

[earhythmic]

Maybe I should post in the too-dumb-to-ask thread, but... in what ways do sways, strut bar, and this alu kruez differ in handling? All do the same thing to varying degrees or each address a different aspect?

Serially, if you want a night and day difference for steering input, get sways!

[theSaint024]

Serially, if you want a night and day difference for steering input, get sways!

I know you have the strut bar and sways already, and you're thinking about the AK too? Wondering if it gets redundant at some point or if they're addressing different things. I know you've been telling me that sways are the biggest game changer that you can tell. Just looks like such a bitch to install!

[earhythmic]

I think everything that's not a sway bar is just the cherry on top of already having sways in terms of steering response and input. The front is SO easy to install, literally took me 20 minutes my first time, the rears are the bitch. And then comes the debate between front or rear sways. Fronts give more initial turn-in response where as the rears are better for longer turns at speed. Since you're driving around the city quite a bit I think the only thing you'll ever feel is the initial turn in response

[dropshadow]

Did you have to mod it at all to fit the Allroad? Rumor has it you have to drill some openings to let the existing bolts through?

No modifications needed to mount a B8.5 Alu Kreuz onto a B8.5 allroad. If somebody said that, I'd bet that they had a B8 AK they were trying to make fit.

[treginginco]

I'm loving the thing. Got to check it out some more on the drive home last night. On a particular stretch of highway in Denver.... the difference in steering and overall control was significantly better. I'm now completely convinced I did the right thing buying the AK. Wish I did it sooner

[B6_Dolphin]

No modifications needed. The allroad does come with a small protection plate (or others have it) that required a couple of holes being drilled for small screws. My install guy (Hardey's Motorwerks) said my AR didn't have that plate ----- so it just bolted right up.

Refreshing an old thread...

I was trying to install the Alu Kruez on my 2015 AR over the weekend and had the same issue as described below (taken from a thread in another forum):

When removing the factory stabilizer, I noted that the Allroad has a metal skid plate protecting the steering rack (and other assorted parts). The rear portion of this skid plate is attached to the factory stabilizer using bolts which screw into two threaded holes in the stabilizer. The Alu Kreuz does NOT have these holes. THIS IS SIGNIFICANT. When I phoned Eurocode regarding this, they said "Just attach the front portion of the ski plate by screwing the bolts in REALLY TIGHT, and don't worry about attaching the rear portion". I kid you not. That was their response. Tragic. Clearly, Eurocode dropped the ball. The Alu Kreuz is not 'Allroad ready'. I ended up drilling holes in the Alu Kreuz unit, but getting them in exactly the right place is no easy task. And once you DO get the holes in the right place, you're going to need the proper nuts (diameter and thread pitch) to screw the bolts into.

I also didn't have the 14 mm XZN triple square socket to remove the front OEM brace bolts, so that socket is on order.

As for the metal skid plate attachment, when I removed the OEM brace, I will use it as a template and drill two through holes in the Eurocode brace so that I can secure the back of the metal skid plate to the Eurocode brace with OEM 12 mm XZN triple square bolts. I have two (2) metric nylon locknuts in my hardware stash to secure the 12 mm XZN bolts, or else I'll tap the Eurocode brace (M8 x 1.25). However, since the Eurocode brace is "dished" at that mounting location, I'll need a stack of 8 mm washers (or 8 mm spacer) to serve as a shim(s).

As the other poster I quoted notes, the Alu Kreuz for the 2014+ B8.5 Allroad applications will need these two holes drilled to properly attach the brace to the steering rack skid plate.

[Depthcharge]

Good on you for following up. You might pull up a diagram or take a picture post drilling to show where you placed the holes to help other AR users looking to install the AK.

One more thing.. remember to replace the stretch bolts every time you take that thing off. Also totally agree, the alu kreuz is a fantastic stabilizer for reducing body roll.

[COar]

How does the AK reduce body roll? It's just a stiffer stabilizer brace right? Maybe it's just semantics, but what I call body roll, is when you take a sharp, fast corner and the car leans to the outside. With my previous car, that body roll was reduced substantially with a thicker rear sway bar, and then virtually eliminated with a set of Bilsteins and stiffer springs.

[Depthcharge]

Drivetrain stabilizer is probably more correct. No intention to add confusion. It does feel to decrease body roll, or at least does to me.

[B6_Dolphin]

One more thing.. remember to replace the stretch bolts every time you take that thing off. Also totally agree, the alu kreuz is a fantastic stabilizer for reducing body roll.

Yup, I also ordered the new bolts when i placed the order for Alu Kreuz bar.

[B6_Dolphin]

With my previous car, that body roll was reduced substantially with a thicker rear sway bar, and then virtually eliminated with a set of Bilsteins and stiffer springs.

I intend to purchase the Bilstein B12 Pro Kit for the B8.5 Audi A4 Sedan (no rake!), and Cup Kit, later in the summer. It looks like the install is a doable DIY project with the right tools.

For now, I installed the Eurcode Tuning FRT and RR sway bars, which includes Adj End Links, and will install the Alu Kreuz bar shortly (once the tools arrive!)

[COar]

I intend to purchase the Bilstein B12 Pro Kit for the B8.5 Audi A4 Sedan (no rake!), and Cup Kit, later in the summer. It looks like the install is a doable DIY project with the right tools.

For now, I installed the Eurcode Tuning FRT and RR sway bars, which includes Adj End Links, and will install the Alu Kreuz bar shortly (once the tools arrive!)

My last car was a Volvo and I had a Bilstein B8 Kit on there. Handling was great, ride quality was still acceptable, but it dropped the car about 1.5". I bought the AR specifically because it was 1 of 3 wagons with ground clearance (and the only nice one), so I won't be adding any aftermarket suspension (at least not of the lowering variety). That's why I'm curious if the AK makes a significant handling difference on stock springs/dampers.

[jfo]

I intend to purchase the Bilstein B12 Pro Kit for the B8.5 Audi A4 Sedan (no rake!), and Cup Kit, later in the summer. It looks like the install is a doable DIY project with the right tools.

For now, I installed the Eurcode Tuning FRT and RR sway bars, which includes Adj End Links, and will install the Alu Kreuz bar shortly (once the tools arrive!)

Did the end links include the rubber boots to protect the bushings? They will wear out quickly without protection, especially if your roads are salted. The boots were not available when I installed mine and didn't last long before I had to put the originals back.

[ColdComfort]

For all of you who added aftermarket sway bars, has anyone ever put the OEM A4 sport bars on their vehicle? My steering is pretty tight with them, but I’m still gonna add the AK later.

[A4x]

For all of you who added aftermarket sway bars, has anyone ever put the OEM A4 sport bars on their vehicle? My steering is pretty tight with them, but I’m still gonna add the AK later.

I put the OEM RS5 rear bar on with Moog end links, it was a nice upgrade.

[B6_Dolphin]

Did the end links include the rubber boots to protect the bushings? They will wear out quickly without protection, especially if your roads are salted. The boots were not available when I installed mine and didn't last long before I had to put the originals back.

No - the boots were extra, and it was quite the challenge to install them on the endlinks.

Fortunately here in western WA, we don't use salt on the account of runoff and the salmon. Seattle has begun using salt on its hilly roads, but that is the extent of salt use in the area.

[jfo]

No - the boots were extra, and it was quite the challenge to install them on the endlinks.

Fortunately here in western WA, we don't use salt on the account of runoff and the salmon. Seattle has begun using salt on its hilly roads, but that is the extent of salt use in the area.

Worth it though. You should get reasonable life from the spherical bushings with no grit, etc getting in there. It's similar in Vancouver with minimal salt usage. I was north of Whistler and the difference in corrosion on my A4 vs my son's car in Vancouver was night and day. My EC end link bushings literally fell apart.

[B6_Dolphin]

Update: Installed the Alu Kruez on my 2015 AR yesterday.

Installation was straight-forward, considering 1) I ordered and received the necessary Triple-Square XZN drive sockets, and 2) when I removed the OEM driveline stabilizer, I used it as a template (overlayed on the Alu Kruez bar) to determine where to center punch the two through holes needed to attached the Alu Kruez to steering box skid plate. With the holes drilled, I could proceed with the install.

I used new bolts that I purchased with the Alu Kruez, which is necessary as the bolts stretch during final torquing. Aside from the absence of the two through holes, a wire harness with two clamps with some stretching here-and-there got the clamps re-attached to the Alu Kruez. As for attaching to the steering box skid plate, I had 8 x 1.25 mm SS self-locking nuts and washers with the original Triple-Square bolts to clamp it to the Alu Kruez. Note: I did not need any extra washers in-between, as originally thought - the lip of the skid plate fit nicely into the relief cut on the Alu Kruez.

After tightening the two Triple-Square bolts and four Hex bolts to 65 ft-lbs., the instructions say to tighten an extra 90 deg for all six locations, plus an additional 45 deg on the Hex bolts only. I must say you need quite the extension bar to stretch the bolt threads, especially the last 45 deg on the Hex bolts (be fore-warned!). After installing the fabric belly pan below the transmission (uses one new Torx bolt), install the three other Torx bolts/washers/lock washers for securing the back of the plastic belly pan 1st, followed by all the rest of the OEM fasteners.

As for initial impressions from a limited drive, the steering "feel" has better feedback/less slop, and the steering feels more planted going straight ahead (less need for correction).

[jfo]

Update: Installed the Alu Kruez on my 2015 AR yesterday.

Installation was straight-forward, considering 1) I ordered and received the necessary Triple-Square XZN drive sockets, and 2) when I removed the OEM driveline stabilizer, I used it as a template (overlayed on the Alu Kruez bar) to determine where to center punch the two through holes needed to attached the Alu Kruez to steering box skid plate. With the holes drilled, I could proceed with the install.

I used new bolts that I purchased with the Alu Kruez, which is necessary as the bolts stretch during final torquing. Aside from the absence of the two through holes, a wire harness with two clamps with some stretching here-and-there got the clamps re-attached to the Alu Kruez. As for attaching to the steering box skid plate, I had 8 x 1.25 mm SS self-locking nuts and washers with the original Triple-Square bolts to clamp it to the Alu Kruez. Note: I did not need any extra washers in-between, as originally thought - the lip of the skid plate fit nicely into the relief cut on the Alu Kruez.

After tightening the two Triple-Square bolts and four Hex bolts to 65 ft-lbs., the instructions say to tighten an extra 90 deg for all six locations, plus an additional 45 deg on the Hex bolts only. I must say you need quite the extension bar to stretch the bolt threads, especially the last 45 deg on the Hex bolts (be fore-warned!). After installing the fabric belly pan below the transmission (uses one new Torx bolt), install the three other Torx bolts/washers/lock washers for securing the back of the plastic belly pan 1st, followed by all the rest of the OEM fasteners.

As for initial impressions from a limited drive, the steering "feel" has better feedback/less slop, and the steering feels more planted going straight ahead (less need for correction).

I have a 4' pipe for those jobs...still a challenge on your back with nothing to grab onto! I think the most benefit was from the EC sway bars. The AK addition is more subtle and dependent on how "sensitive" you are to the cars handling characteristics. Until recently I drove mostly in the mountains with constant and irregular turns, so I could justify the changes. For less demanding roads and driving style, it's harder to justify.

[JLAllroad]

I put the OEM RS5 rear bar on with Moog end links, it was a nice upgrade.

I did the same but an 034 bar, moog endlinks are metal and do like to rust so hit them with some extra protection.

That said, I did run this on stock end links with very noticeable results. The stock links are composite(plastic), do not rust, and I have yet to hear of a failure.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Depthcharge]

The AK addition is more subtle and dependent on how "sensitive" you are to the cars handling characteristics.....For less demanding roads and driving style, it's harder to justify.

Well said. Driving frequently on graded roads and uneven cement jobs does help too.